SMOK TFV4 Issues

[VMGz]

Hi All,

I recently purchased a SMOK TFV4 authentic (do they even clone these things?), and I'm having some pretty major issues. With the tricoil installed, and at 60-100 W on a sig150, the thing doesn't fire. Well, it makes the hissing noise, but with no vapor production. I primed the coil by hand, then let it soak up juice for an hour before attempting to use it. However, the coil just hisses--it doesn't produce anything. This is pretty annoying, especially since they're expensive coils to replace. Might just have to use the RBA section :/

If any of you can suggest ideas as to why this is happening, let me know.

some points to note:
I tried on multiple devices
haven't tried the quad coil yet (low on juice atm)
max VG juice
coil primed
device rinsed in isopropyl alcohol before use (not the coils, obviously)
the base around the coil gets super warm... makes me think connectivity issue

 

[smacksy]

What does the ohms read? I just looked at the display on my IPV4 with the triple coil installed in the Smok..it reads 0.20 ohms and it hits great at 75w...might try it on another mod or check ohms on a separate ohm meter... you might try another tank on your sig to make sure its working OK...wish I could help more

Sent from my QTAQZ3 using Tapatalk

 

[VMGz]

What does the ohms read? I just looked at the display on my IPV4 with the triple coil installed in the Smok..it reads 0.20 ohms and it hits great at 75w...might try it on another mod or check ohms on a separate ohm meter... you might try another tank on your sig to make sure its working OK...wish I could help more

Sent from my QTAQZ3 using Tapatalk

Hey man, thanks for your input. I'll check it out on other tanks and such. Thanks! The ohms read out at .2 and i ran it at 70W.

 

[LimJaheyyy]

The base will get warm, mine does after hitting 4-5 times. I had a connectivity issues where instead of staying at .15 (quad coil) the ohms would jump every time i pressed the button. I would go to hit it and the ohms would be at .45 and it felt like the devil farted it my mouth. Never heard of your issue though. Any time something is wrong i put my tank on my pals sigelei to make sure my ipv isnt ....ed

 

[OfTheBrave]

I've got the same setup at you.
Didn't like the Tri-Coil heads but I love the quads and the build deck (though the rba has less airflow)
I tend to run it pretty low, right around 50-65 watts with the quad .1 ohm coils and I still get pretty sweet vapor production.
Never had any problems and the people I know who have them are all happy with it.

ONE THING I ALMOST FORGOT
The second quad coil I had was a bum coil out of the box. Didn't do much except hiss and spit juice at me.
I know they are pricey but pop a new coil in.
If that works, maybe try taking the bum coil back to your B&E. They might take pity on you, but I wouldn't count on it.

Also, try building a dual coil on the build deck.
Make them macro coils 7-11 wraps with 26g kanthal and look up how to wick it.
Wicking on this deck isn't easy to explain but you'll get it when you see it.

 

[SpaceApe]

Bad coils bum me out

 

[crxess]

If the Coil is not Good and Secure it could be causing an issue. Not only is it Grounding through the Mounting threads, but it is being height set to contact the Center(positive) post.

Hissing at high wattage is indicative of a contact loss(current loss) or completely Flooded coil.

* If air flow is good, coil is not flooded.

 

[Manycats]

I have a problem getting mine apart. The top part comes off, but I cannot dislodge the glass tank from the bottom. It just keeps turning but doesn't come off. Any suggestions?

 

[jbnuke]

Its a press fit... just pull on it firmly and it should pop out

 

[Manycats]

Right. I pulled on it firmly but still will not come off and in doing this I broke the glass!

 

[DoctorJ]

I have four of these tanks and the only issue I've had is the coil not being seated in the base correctly because of the rubberized ring at the bottom of the coil causing it to leak through the air flow holes in the base. This was easily fixed though. I did have a few connection issues caused by the same thing, however, and I know this sounds counter-intuitive, but I would put light pressure on the coil and turn it counter clockwise a few times to see if the rubber ring on the coil was interfering with screwing the coil onto the base. If there was any "wear" on the ring, I knew that was the problem and I'd use a very sharp blade to trim the ring. Be careful not to trim too much or the coil won't seal and it's gonna leak.

I've never used max vg in these tanks, however, I've had issues with this before and a coil not wicking fast enough to keep up with my vaping it.

Right. I pulled on it firmly but still will not come off and in doing this I broke the glass!

I did the same thing with my Kanger tanks and found that when there is rubber or whatever is used to seal a tank, the best thing to do is put the tank in hot water for a little while and slowly twist and turn the tank or tilt it back and forth. It takes a bit of patience and avoiding the urge to give it a good yank, but you should be able to work it out and off of the base eventually.

 

[jbnuke]

The other one i thought of that I have done before is clamp the base... like on the mod and push it sideways and try to tilt it out. And fyi you can easily crack the glass if you tighten it down too hard

 

[Cacique]

The glass in the Smok TFV4 is just ridiculously tight when you first get it. It needs to be wiped down completely so it's not slick, and either pulled straight up hard or very gently wiggling it out. It gets easier over time. I never had any issues with my TFV4 and Sigelei 150, only thing that happened to mine was the o-ring where the chimney meets the coil broke and I'm having a hard time getting it to not leak with all the o-rings I've tried in there.

Fasttech sells some replacement parts if you need a new glass piece or some of the o-rings.

 

[Kprthevapr]

I recommend these for your vape kit

Makes taking things apart a snap