Lemo issues- jumping ohms.

[erictho]

Hey guys.
I thought I had finally figured out all the secrets of the lemo. When I use one specific building deck it won't maintain a solid ohm. The last time I built on it I measured it through all stages of the building process and it caped fine. I put it down for 10 mins and now it is erratic. I chose another lemo, rebuilt it the same way and it is much more consistent.
Has anyone else had this problem? Do I need to replace screws, or...? I'm certain I am tightening the build deck screws enough.
It has been not so morale boosting.

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[Shawn Hoefer]

Lemo v1? The connection between the tank section and the 510 section can get juicy. That causes resistance to jump around...

 

[Ou2mame]

Are your post screws tight?

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[erictho]

Yes it is the lemo v1.
I thought that maybe last time I hadn't tightened them enough but when I dismantled it they were secure. When I rebuilt it again I gave it a couple pokes to make sure it was in there and it seemed stable for a bit. The screws definitely should be OK as far as tightening them.

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[VaPreis]

Make sure the center pin is fully tightened to the positive block.

 

[roxynoodle]

Also make sure that cylindrical "hump" in the 510 base can move up and down so it connects to the screw that holds the positive block. Someone gave me a Lemo Drop that was doing that and it was due to juice that had hardened down there and it was stuck. Cleaned it up good and it works perfect.

 

[erictho]

What is the center pin?
Also I am using the same 510 connection piece and it doesn't seem to make much of a difference. It is super clean!
Thanks you guys for running me through a checklist.

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[roxynoodle]

When you take that 510 base off, you will see a screw in the middle of the bottom of the atty, the afc ring goes around it. That's the center (positive) pin. It holds the positive block to the deck. Make sure that's tight.

 

[stylemessiah]

Also worth checking is that the adjustable screw in the 510 is making good contact. When i first got my Lemo 1 the screw was solidly fixed, but with use it started to move and become loose, in the end i ended up finding an o-ring (that wasnt too tall/thick) and small enough to put on the screw thread and that was smaller than the screw head and then screw back in that gave me enough length to make contact and, due to the o-ring providing that correct screw head length, and resistance due to the rubber, was tight enough in the threads so it didnt move. I finally retired the Lemo 1 a few weeks ago as even that stopped working and the resistance readings were all over the shop.

Ive owned both the Lemo 1 & 2. When i got into temp control i didnt even consider the 1 for it because the conductivity on it is nowhere near good enough, the whole centre piun section was known not to be made of the best material...i remember seeing a video about it where the guy had had a custom 510 pin etc made on cnc for him to improve the conductivity....

The Lemo 2 is my go to tank and works very well for tc.

Plus I always use the screw heads for leg trapping, never the post holes, the long legs can throw off the resistance

I just wish Eleaf and everyone else would use the Kanger style RBA method for leg trapping - insanely easy and far more stable than the screw head or post hole method

 

[erictho]

I will try the center pin next time and maybe retire it if I make another build and it is weird.
The 510 connection piece I am using between both build decks I have mentioned on the same device, so length should be OK!

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[Zombo]

The Lemo Drop (V1, in other words) has been my go-to tank for the past year..both Kanthal and TC with zero issues...until I tried using the deck holes. I'm a habitual over-tightener, and I think I must have been damaging the legs because my Ohms would jump occasionally. The problem went away completely when I went back to using the screw heads.

If you use the heads, I would highly recommend you replace them with these:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00917TWNO?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00