New Youde RTA the Bellus

[jefx]

The o-ring has nothing to do with leaking out of the air holes. In fact I reckon it would work without the bottom o-ring at all.

Kman. I'm just curious how you were able to measure a .55 mm gap after the deck has been seated in the base? I know of the solder method used to measure piston to head clearance in an engine, but it has to be hard to properly crush solder in an rta.

As far as the oring not being needed......maybe someone with a properly working Bellus could remove that oring and report the results here.....for experimentation sake.

 

[Filippo]

I don't see any cracks, I just see lots of cotton fibers. His main problem (and anyone else that has leakage, most likely) is simply too much wicking and bad coil placement combined.

If you keep the wicking away from the airholes and chamber sides, the juice has no path to flow out of the chamber, period. Build as close to the deck as possible, go higher if need be, and of course, build small diameter coils. 2.5mm ID is fine for single strand up to 24ga, but if you twist or Clapton, consider going down closer to 2.0mm ID.

In Fillipo's case, not only should he fix the wick like me and @jefx suggested, he should move the coils in so they're close to the red lines in the picture below, and up so they're closer to the black line (adjust to taste, you tend to get more flavor with higher coils in this thing, and smoother/increased airflow):

EDIT: I should also note that if you build "high and tight" with the Bellus, you greatly reduce or eliminate AFC condensation as well.

Can't see the pic!!
It's like damaged!!

Thanks guys you're great!!
Today i'm going to build and wick from scratch!!
Minimum amazing of cotton!!


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[John Eldredge]

Yeah you guys are using way way way too much cotton... Is the shorter cotton working now filippo? I don't believe there's machining issues causing these issues. The tank is well made. I Had a learning curve on here, but it wasnt ever bad, it only got better with trying different things. Longer skinny wicks work, super short stubby wicks work. Only long fat wicks either prevent sealing and juice fump, or allow sealing, get crimped, And cause weak, semi dry hits...

 

[TheKman]

@jefx: using solder actually. Layed some 0.9mm electronics solder across the groove and assembled. My vernier is accurate to 0.05mm.

@John Eldredge: the purpose of the extra cotton was to demonstrate that there should be no reason for it to leak under this condition. The fact that it still wicked well and still leaked is clear evidence of an alternative path for the juice. After installing an additional o-ring in the groove around the deck on top of the wick, the leaking and wicking both stopped. Conclusion? Use 140 weight transmission fluid to prevent leaking... No, it's a flaw.

The only practical solution I can think of is to mill or lap half a millimetre off the bottom of the tank section so that the deck section can seat deeper and close the gap.

 

[Filippo]

How about this??


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[ashtrayogdc]

I would say that looks pretty darn good.

 

[Croak]

Yep, just about right.

 

[Filippo]

Bad news here!

If that's an almost correct wicking...
Now every pull i get a ....load of juice in my mouth!
There's something definitely wrong with the atty at this point!



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[Filippo]

Ahahah
Guys just opened the top cap, put in a little more juice, closed the top cap opened airflow and there was no seal it just almost emptied the whole tank trough the air holes!!

Ahahah idk what else to try!
It is definitely faulty


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[ashtrayogdc]

Ahahah
Guys just opened the top cap, put in a little more juice, closed the top cap opened airflow and there was no seal it just almost emptied the whole tank trough the air holes!!

Ahahah idk what else to try!
It is definitely faulty


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Seriously though buddy that sucks. You're coil placement and wicking looks spot on so don't know what to tell you :/

 

[Filippo]

Seriously though buddy that sucks. You're coil placement and wicking looks spot on so don't know what to tell you :/

Noproblem mate!
I did another test (putting a huge amount of cotton like filling almost any space on the deck) and it doesn't leaks wen refilling but it kills the airflow and it just spits juice in my mouth (so the chamber is overfilled with juice)

I think there is a tollerance error on the deck/chamber


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[John Eldredge]

That stinks. I had an issue with my aromamizer where the deck was flooding, it was a slice on the oring where the chimney threads into the top of the coil housing. It was flooding and the evidence was the inside of the coil cover was loaded with juice, and a uniform layer of juice on the deck. Check that!!

 

[John Eldredge]

Seriously I recommend disassembling everything and checking every o ring. The o ring at the base of the chimney will allow juice to leak through when the juice level is above that, and will allow an airleak, ruining the vacuum in the juice chamber, when the juice level is below that level. Especially if packing the deck with wick did not solve the issue. Boss reserve is good! And it's thin... I use 30/70

 

[John Eldredge]

grasping at straws here. Leave your coils in place, rip the wicks out, hot water wash everything. Dry it off check your coils, and Id replace every o ring in the unit. Lube them lightly with e juice. Reassemble, and wick heavy, stuff the channels but keep them flush with the bottom. Try it out at low wattage, cause your gonna get dry hits if you crank it up. If you can fill and vape without flooding, then you can slowly thin your wicks with tweezers and scissors. You have the right idea, all the wick must be in the channel, but I saw an area that would have been a leak on your last build. There's a wedge shaped area that had no wick in it. Check out the pic below. Just trying to help you!
your sure the tabs are fully seated in the grooves? Did you try a local vape shop to ask for help?

 

[jefx]

For experimentation sake, I removed the deck o-ring from my properly working Bellus. I vaped it for about 10 minutes and then took it apart again to see if anything had changed.

There was a definite pooling of juice inside the locking ring, but not enough to cause a mess in that short of time....also, I use 80% VG juice. I would guess that prolonged use with a bad or missing deck o-ring would lead to leaking, especially with thinner juice or in hotter climates.

If poor machining is responsible for the problems Kman and Flippo are experiencing, I would personally try to exchange them for new ones.
In all honesty, I would say that of all the vape gear I've bought (which isn't nearly as much as some people here *ahem*, Roxy) I've experienced close to a 20% failure rate due to broken/damaged/improperly machined/premature failure. In EVERY one of those experiences, an email with a description of the problem and pictures has resulted in replacement items....most times the vendors don't even ask for the faulty items back.

One vendor even sent me new juice because the stuff I got didn't taste like the description.

Most vendors are more than happy to exchange faulty items to keep their customers happy.

 

[roxynoodle]

Ahem

Ok, I've gotten only 3 problem attys, at least as far as properly functioning. I've gotten high end attys that looked like crap with metal shavings hanging off, and bad threads, and parts not fitting together as well as they should have...but they did work.

The three problem children:
1. Ivogo Squape R clone. The infamous Chuckie. He was the atty from hell.
2. FT Kayfun 4. All kinds of issues and I finally got tired of dealing with them. It was also the dirtiest thing I've ever gotten with black, tarlike crap all over it.
3. Focloud. Base couldn't screw all the way into the tank so it had minor leaking. Focusecig sent me 2 more good ones to replace it.

 

[TheWestPole]

I'm sorry, but that's horrible. Lol. Not trying to be mean, but that ain't gonna work right.

All that cotton is going to prevent the deck from fully seating up into the chamber... causing leaks. also, it appears as if your deck o-ring might have cracks in it too.

My deck actually "snaps" into place when seated into the base section....It's the sound of a fully seated deck and properly sealing o-ring. Here's a pic:

View attachment 509478

As far as I'm concerned, @jefx 's pic shows the way to wick it. You can go deeper into the juice channels but there's no benefit. Getting the thickness of the wick right is important though. Too thick and tight and it won't wick efficiently, too thin and loose and it's prone to flooding and leakage.

Mine's been trouble free, more than any other RTA in recent memory.

 

[skyboxer1968]

I've had a couple of close calls so far so I know it's gonna happen, and I thought I would ask..
Had anyone pulled the deck out without remembering to invert the tank first?

 

[roxynoodle]

I've had a couple of close calls so far so I know it's gonna happen, and I thought I would ask..
Had anyone pulled the deck out without remembering to invert the tank first?

Not yet . My other ones all unscrew though.

 

[freedogg]

I've had a couple of close calls so far so I know it's gonna happen, and I thought I would ask..
Had anyone pulled the deck out without remembering to invert the tank first?

That's funny, sky!! I almost did that last night. What's even funnier is when I went to re-wick a MT today I tried pulling the deck out with the 510?? doh!!