Mech mod help

[Outcast]

This being my first mechanical mod I don't know if this is a common problem that plagues them but I have a MCV kingpin authentic The button keeps on screwing a part and sometimes need to wiggle to fire the mod any suggestions

I have magnets coming for the switch and puar silver contacts great hopefully that'll help on that
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[edyle]

This being my first mechanical mod I don't know if this is a common problem that plagues them but I have a MCV kingpin authentic The button keeps on screwing a part and sometimes need to wiggle to fire the mod any suggestions

I have magnets coming for the switch and puar silver contacts great hopefully that'll help on that
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if it's a bottom fired mech, sounds like a common type of issue.

on many of them you can deal with the problem by ensuring you screw in the screw tight that holds the bottom switch together; then when you screw on the bottom switch to the mod, don't overtighten it on the battery.

 

[Outcast]

if it's a bottom fired mech, sounds like a common type of issue.

on many of them you can deal with the problem by ensuring you screw in the screw tight that holds the bottom switch together; then when you screw on the bottom switch to the mod, don't overtighten it on the battery.

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[Bad Ninja]

Crank the lower contact screw down tight, and avoid fiddling(spinning) the button with your finger when you vape.

Some bottom fired mechanicals have this problem, some don't.
Most don't.

I rarely use my Hades due to this same issue.

 

[edyle]

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so is that a screw head which is smooth? I have a couple mods that have screwheads that are just plain, which I sliced a slot using a hacksaw blade so i could screw/unscrew using a regular flathead/slothead screwdriver.

 

[Outcast]

so is that a screw head which is smooth? I have a couple mods that have screwheads that are just plain, which I sliced a slot using a hacksaw blade so i could screw/unscrew using a regular flathead/slothead screwdriver.

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[Outcast]

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[edyle]

yep; that round screw head; you can cut a slot for a screwdriver on it , otherwise I guess you can use a longnose screwdriver when you want to tighten it.

Also that seems to be copper, so you'd want to clean off that black corrosion before you tighten everything up; not sure what's the best thing for cleaning copper but I'm sure lots of people who use copper mechs would know.

 

[Outcast]

The black you are seeing is the lube that I use
To prevent corrosion

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[sonicbomb]

Yep, there's some nasty gunk on those threads. You want to clean that off.

 

[sig-cmt]

Drop it in a solution of white vinegar and common table salt. Let sit for a few minutes. Use a nylon brush to scrub it nice and shiny . FYI, I have suggested to MCV the use of knurled screw heads as an aid in manual torquing. For now, I use a thick rubber band around the screw head (with the O-ring in the switch removed). Since you have a new negative incoming, I might rough up the edges of the copper firing pin with 100-200 grit and tighten it down wearing rubber gloves. What type of thread lubricant are you using? NOALOX along the threads (even on copper-to-copper applications) might help as I have found that a layer of the compound generally makes threading and unthreading parts more difficult. Offhand, magnets and a new negative may help if the magnets provide reduced tension (vs the stock spring) on the firing pin at rest and/or the threads of the new negative are slightly out of spec and lightly seize on the button.

 

[Outcast]

Drop it in a solution of white vinegar and common table salt. Let sit for a few minutes. Use a nylon brush to scrub it nice and shiny . FYI, I have suggested to MCV the use of knurled screw heads as an aid in manual torquing. For now, I use a thick rubber band around the screw head (with the O-ring in the switch removed). Since you have a new negative incoming, I might rough up the edges of the copper firing pin with 100-200 grit and tighten it down wearing rubber gloves. What type of thread lubricant are you using? NOALOX along the threads (even on copper-to-copper applications) might help as I have found that a layer of the compound generally makes threading and unthreading parts more difficult. Offhand, magnets and a new negative may help if the magnets provide reduced tension (vs the stock spring) on the firing pin at rest and/or the threads of the new negative are slightly out of spec and lightly seize on the button.

Yes NOALOX
I am using it on every thread

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[sig-cmt]

I am using it on every thread

Except on the internal 510 threads of the top cap, right?

 

[Outcast]

Except on the internal 510 threads of the top cap, right?

Ya I did shod I not?


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[sig-cmt]

I wouldn't. NOALOX is conductive. So if it happens to get in between the threads of the 510 and the positive post...

 

[Outcast]

I wouldn't. NOALOX is conductive. So if it happens to get in between the threads of the 510 and the positive post...

Got ya....
I cleaned her all up ready to vape on

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[Bad Ninja]

If you build your coils with longer legs so the coils are closer to the air holes you'll get much much more flavor and vapor.

 

[Outcast]

I do and will try that thanks


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[Outcast]

Silver contacts and magnets in the switch solved all the problems


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[petrotech]

Silver contacts and magnets in the switch solved all the problems


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Glad you got it figured out! I always use "mod issues" as an excuse to buy another mod, because I tell my wife I can't fix it. Lol