Burning Cartomisers? Dangerous?-510/Kr808/4081...etc filler type cartos

[Katya]

The lathe work should be fairly simple, so maybe I will be able to manage it. We'll see.

Hey, glad to hear that you're going back to work on your lathe! Good luck!

 

[br5495]

might do you a world of good!

with my prostrate cancer and all, it might even be legal if I lived in California.

 

[Katya]

 

[br5495]

I wish everyone a nice Thanksgiving. I am thankful for so many things, including my good friends here on ecf.

As stated in earlier posts, the cartomizer I have been using gets really hot and the pass-through cannot charge fast enough to keep up, so I decided to declare war on this hog. I bought another rig just like the one I've been using and now I have two. One to vape while the other one cools off and charges.

This almost worked. The batteries stay charged, but the cartomizers and batteries cannot cool off quick enough. Now I have two hot cartomizers laying on my desktop. I refuse to buy a third rig, heheh.

So I lost the battle, but I haven't lost the war.

- to be continued -

 

[tiburonfirst]

 

[tiburonfirst]

cartomizers and batteries cannot cool off quick enough

unless you upped your wattage substantially how can this be?

 

[CES]

Happy Thanksgiving!

 

[br5495]

unless you upped your wattage substantially how can this be?

I didn't up the temperature, tibs. It's set at 200 degrees, which is the minimum temperature for the TC to begin doing its thing.

The reason for the heat is because the nickle coil wire has no resistance, or almost no resistance. This 'almost' no resistance is called sub ohm. Anytime a piece of wire is connected between the plus and minus of a battery it shorts it out. The battery will begin to get hot and the wire will get very hot if it has a small diameter. This small diameter wire will get red hot or even burn in two if it remains connected to the battery long enough. Either that, or the battery may explode.

This doesn't happen with a PV because the small coil wire stays wet with e-juice. Even if it is not wet, the battery will shut down in several seconds to save the coil, depending on the cut off time.

So this is sub ohm for you. Don't it sound kinda ridiculous to you? It does to me.

Our e-juice begins to boil or produce vapor at about 180 degrees, more or less. My rig produces a fair amount of vapor at 190 degrees and sometimes I set it there, depending on my mood. At this setting the TC circuit cannot quite do its thing. This begins to happen at 200 degrees. When the fire button is pressed, it kicks in a full 40 watts and keeps it there until it heats the coil to the set temperature. Then it levels off and stays there until the draw is complete. This happens very fast, but I can hear it working if I pay attention to it. My low watt builds do sort of the same thing. They have a very small 36 gauge coil wire. This wire heats very fast and allows a shorter draw to get a good hit.

So tibs, I'm working these things at the lowest possible temperature. Probably lower than anyone else. Yet they get very hot. Almost so hot that I cannot hold my finger on the atomizer base. My problem is that I am triggering brief sips just about every breath or so and these things never get a break.

This is the price I am paying to get enough air for a full lung inhale. I don't always need this much, but sometimes I do.

There has to be a better way than this or I will lose the war.

 

[BlueridgeDog]

So I lost the battle, but I haven't lost the war.

What has changed in your vaping? Did it previously keep up with such near constant use?

 

[br5495]

What has changed in your vaping? Did it previously keep up with such near constant use?

I previously designed and built my own cartomizers, Blue. They were very low powered and had an airflow suitable for a direct lung inhale. A 1300 mAh battery working at 3 volts could go 1/2 a day on a charge.

Now I am 80 years old, almost blind, in poor physical condition, and can no longer build and maintain them. Therefore, I have been trying to find a manufactured product that will take their place. So far, the only ones I have found with enough airflow are sub ohm tanks that waste an enormous amount of power.

If you have anymore questions, I'll be glad to answer them. Or at least try to, heheh.

On another note, I now have two one amp power supplies (wall warts) to charge these suckers. They just add more heat.

 

[bilboda]

I haven't tried every tank out there but I seem to be constantly buying a new model. The one that never comes off one of my too many devices is the Kanger subtank nano. Lung inhale works fine , 0.65Ω at 30 watts produces plenty of vapor. I tried to duplicate what I think is your vaping style, several shorts bursts 1 or 2 secs, 3 or 4 times consecutively and have noticed heat at the drip tip, replace it with a wood tip so that's gone.
I am not using a TC coil not sure if they are available. 1.2Ω coils are available too. All OCC.
It sits on a 60 watt istick with a replaceable 18650 battery. I prefer the replaceable battery so that downtime is minimal, just a battery swap. And they are on sale today at ecig.com. http://www.ecig.com/kanger-subtank-nano-1989.html?a_aid=newsletter ... might be cheaper elsewhere too
Here is my rig

 

[BlueridgeDog]

I have been trying to find a manufactured product that will take their place. So far, the only ones I have found with enough airflow are sub ohm tanks that waste an enormous amount of power.

Got it, you previously used a carto you built manually with open air flow but a higher resistance coil, but now are having to buy premade devices.

Two options come to mind, finding a device that suits you, or modifying a cartridge style device for more air flow.

So we don't duplicate, what have you been using or what have you tested?

 

[tiburonfirst]

hi, brd! i'm pretty sure the tank br is currently using is the aspire atlantis and the mod is the istick 40 watt tc

 

[BlueridgeDog]

Ok, here are my best ideas.

-Use your existing Kanger tank, with the 1.2 non temp coils to get away from the sub ohm experience. Such as 5pcs Bottom Coil 1 2ohm Replacement Coil for Subtank Nano Mini Plus Atomizer | eBay
-Go with a Delta II Authentic Joyetech Delta II Atomizer Silver US Seller Authentic | eBay with the 1.6 ohm non temp coil 5pcs Authentic C3 Replacement Dual Coil Head 1 6ohm for Delta Tank Fast Shipping | eBay
-Use what you have, but get a mod that takes replaceable batteries so you can have four or so charged and ready to go. I have a spare if you want to go that route (though it is non TC...so it would require the 1.2 ohm coil for your Kanger or the Delta and the 1.6)

 

[tiburonfirst]

The reason for the heat is because the nickle coil wire has no resistance, or almost no resistance. This 'almost' no resistance is called sub ohm.

not necessarily, br tc nickel and sub-ohm are not the same. while both seem to fall in the category of sub-ohm, sub-ohm coils marketed as such are not nickel coils and if you are still using the aspire atlantis you, more than likely, have a kanthal or nichrome sub-ohm coil which should not be used on a mod in tc mod.
the istick 40 watt tc is an excellent little mod in variable wattage mode but i'm not sure if it can fire a sub-ohm coil.
atlantis coils are available in 1 ohm though and applying 9 watts in vw will give you the 3 volts you are used to and like

 

[Mad Scientist]

I have to admit I can't figure this one out and have nothing to add. To summarize what I think I've seen:
Maybe the coil resistance is too low so both the coil and the atty heat up (I've had this happen so it definitely does happen -- mod internals will heat up too).
Maybe using TC at such a low temp for such a sustained period of time heats the atty from the coil by simple conduction.
Maybe it's actually a kanthal coil so the set temp isn't the actual temp its vaping at.

A stock Atlantis tank with a stock kanthal or nichrome (whatever they're made with) head "should" work just fine in plain vanilla VW mode. I'd start with that as a baseline test case to ensure there's not something else causing an issue. From there, test with a TC coil in TC mode using at least 400F setting for temp and 30W for power (enough power so the temp limit will definitely be reached). Joule heating is power times time. Either lots of power or lots of time are enough to make things hot.

 

[bilboda]

Wicking, airflow, vaping style, tank build materials and coil surface area are going affect to the atty's external temperature.
Pulls of 1,2 or 3 sec followed by another and another will not give the device enough rest to drop the temperature.
Assume the wicking and airflow are adequate. On today's sub ohm tanks the wire may be be as small as 24 gauge, dual coils and claptons and all wires touching, not spaced. Repeated short pulls will keep that large mass of metal hot. Even if using TC , 400 degrees is still very very hot.
Not much rest between pulls allows more time for higher temperatures to radiate to the outer tank metal. You can expect that metal to get hot.

In his prior cartomizer, thin 36 gauge wire, spaced coils had negligible mass and cooled down very quickly. The heat never has much impact on the cartomizer body. With these beefy subtanks. once you start getting them hot, they stay hot for a while, Further use gets them even hotter.

As new things came down the line, I have found I had to change my vaping style to accomodate them, mouth to lung, straight to lung, titght lung, wide open lung, headache inducing tight mouth to lung. I mean, I wanted a good vape so adapted as necessary.

In short, it doesn't have to be a beast of a tank, The Kanger nano has a nice size and performance. I like my evic mini too. Bigger Text.

 

[Katya]

I can't quite figure out what's going on with BR's rig either. I don't have an Atlantis tank, and I don't use TC because I'm a MTL, low-wattage vaper and never had any problems with my devices getting hot or with dry hits. As a matter of fact, I experienced my last dry hit at 6 watts or so with Aspire ET-S atty and a BDC coil. It was nasty--no airflow through that tank whatsoever.

But I do own and love my Subtank mini. I use 1.2 and 1.5Ω premade coils and the RBA deck (1.2-1.5Ω coil), 10-12 watts, middle AF setting, and I'm using my own drip tip with a smaller bore. I can chain vape my Subtank in that configuration and nothing gets hot.

 

[Emerson Warrington]

I think the liquid is not just typical pg,. I guest

 

[Alžběta Madragana]

..OK. It's been a very long time; I will admit that. Changes... so many new things and changes in life these days. Find me on Google+ under "amyleakali" anytime. I post there fairly often. I have had some crazy experiences; however, I love everyone here. I'm sorry I've been gone so long. I am not the kind nice person y'all think I am; however, I think I do have a good heart. I post stuff the way I see it and sometimes my language is not very nice... but that's ME. I do not do Twitter, Facebook, or any of those other 'Social Networks'; however, I want y'all to know that Google+ is where you will find me... please, do not be shocked or offended by some of the stuff I post on it, but that IS how I feel/believe. Peace, and happy vaping to everyone here! I will welcome any of y'all as 'friends' on Google if anyone here is a member. I'm not trying to plug Google or any of that crap, but I've found it's a lot less troubles than anything else I've 'joined'... LOL! Hugs to all here!!!!!!!!!!!!!