Flash-e-Vapor V2 rba by Artur Schwarze

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JeremyR

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Yes to all your questions. Most of us use mesh for feeder. I've described my feeder Wick process a few pages back.

3mm is a big coil to go to 50w with no air screw and sharp lung pull. I use a 2.5mm 28g and run it around 40w with lung hits no air screw.

buy a clone for 10% of the price of authentic. To make sure you like it after the learning curve... You can hardly tell the difference imo.
 
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sedge

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Hello, I have some new user questions on the FeV. My current all day vape is a Sigelei 75 and Tobeco Mini Super tank. I am considering ( pretty much made up my mind but I still have questions ) getting the authentic FeV 3.5 for building coils. If you want to know more of my background I posted on the new users forum but I am green, green, green and this will be my first coil building experience.

I read on another Sigelei thread that TrollDragon uses a FeV and Sigelei 30, so I am assuming and hoping that my 75 watt one will work as well. I am currently vaping in power mode at 20 watts on a .5 coil and this is working ok. The FEV looks easy enough to build on; pretty much designed for single coil builds.

I want to try different single coil builds at different ohms. Like .6 to above the 1.0 mark. Here's a few questions and very possible there will be more to come!


1- Will the FeV 3.5 and my Sigelei 75 let me do this?

2- Can I vape at higher watts even if the ohms are higher? Example TrollDragon mentioned is 20 watts at .9ohms in this thread: Sigelei Mini 30W

3- Where do you get the dripping wicks from? I've read about silica, cotton, hemp, and mesh. I just want the easiest to work with and I am talking about the wicks that go through those tiny dripping holes.

4- Is Kanthal 26 or 28 a good starter gauge coil for what I want to do? TrollDragon says he uses .26 for the .9 build.

5- Where do you get your cotton strips from for going through the coils and what do you cut size wise for your strips?

I know some of these questions are probably redundant. I am just trying my best to make this next purchase as painless as possible :)


@JDC

I did a build pictorial awhile back. I've since gone to a 2.5 mm coil using 25g Kanthal and 1.3mm ID on the mesh straw at 7.5 mm length.

Rebuildable Tank Atomizers - An Anthology, Pictorial, Builds and Reviews.
 

JDC1958

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JDC1958

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Yes to all your questions. Most of us use mesh for feeder. I've described my feeder Wick process a few pages back.

3mm is a big coil to go to 50w with no air screw and sharp lung pull. I use a 2.5mm 28g and run it around 40w with lung hits no air screw.

Buy a clone for 10% of the price of authentic. To make sure you like it after the learning curve... You can hardly tell the difference imo.
Thanks for the info. I am going to buy the original with spare parts; and if I like it a lot will buy a second original with spare parts. I don't see how I will not like it or the the hit since its a tank, sub to one ohm capable, does not leak, and is not a cart.
 
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sedge

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Thanks for the info. I am going to buy the original with spare parts; and if I like it a lot will buy a second original with spare parts. I don't see how I will not like it or the the hit since its a tank, sub to one ohm capable, does not leak, and is not a cart.

Get every spare and option you think you might want in one shot. Shipping is not cheap and slow.
 

sedge

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I plan on getting all the extras that I like. Glass tank, large tank extension and tube, and two of the spare parts bags. I vape a lot of citrus so will probably skip the Makrolon tank.

I've yet to have the Makrolon Crack and I do lemon, lime, orange and tangerine.

Get the short chimney in case you want stealth.
 
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JeremyR

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Oh it will leak... I've had it for two years in daily use as my only tank, and its not leak proof. You can get it leak proof for a while, depends on your juice and environment. as temps change with high vg you have issues and juice viscosity changes are when you get problems.

Running up at the limit like I do around 40w with 95%vg, means you need a loose feed to keep up, small changes in juice viscosity can cause it to leak or slow down.

In the summer when temps are above 60 its perfect to dial in and consistent with vg. Temps below 50 you may have varing viscosity and a little trouble.

Warm climate its very consistent. Upper Midwest the temps just slam back and forth too much. But I still use it all day every day.

If you get a point where the wicking seems to slow I just crack the tank, or screw a couple times to pump juice into the chamber. When iii out in cold weather and I know the vg is thick I'll just leave the tank unscrewed s half turn or so to loosen up the feed. So you can have a makeshift juice control by unscrewing thtank a little.

Hey if you have 250 laying around more power to you. I think the biggest benifit with an original is the better orings and ever so slightly better tolerances and finish.
 
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JDC1958

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Hey if you have 250 laying around more power to you. I have 3 fev clones that cost me 60.00 for all three. I have every part thats available in a couple of these clone kits. Except the chop air tube.

I have 250 for this one. I am going to think of it as my Provari Tank lol. I don't use Max VG. My current DIY is 65 VG/35 PG to 70 VG/30 PG. I am using my Sigelei 75 at 20 Watts, .5 ohms. I live in the Midwest as well. Cincinnati is pretty much below freezing in January and February most days.
 
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Troll from behind

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Yes, can vouch what Jeremy said, it ain't leakproof since there isn't such a thing made.
Well, if you don't vape one I suppouse every tank is.:D
Me beign a lazy haven't tweaked with my feeders besides torching em now and then.
My feeders are made for max VG so using em with something less, like 75/25 or 50/50 does flood the chamber and make liquid come out from the airhole when tilted.
Nothing what a couple of burns wouldn't fix, mind you.
What I mostly am starting to miss are bigger screws, anything bigger than .32(AWG28) can be a pain.
 

JeremyR

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Don't get me wrong I love the tank, ovbiously I've been here since the first page of this thread. :thumb:

Once its tuned to the viscosity and your power, its pretty consistent for sure. The higher Pg will keep the swings of viscosity changes lower for you. I just can't vape higher than 10% Pg myself.. But still fev rules for a simple single coil tank.
 

JDC1958

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@ Troll from behind, JeremyR., and sedge. My plan is to play with this one and use at home until I get it right. The single coil build, ease of building ( so it looks ), variety of different builds, ohms. wattage's, etc and the way its built are whats got me wanting this puppy.

I am not against a higher VG content but do not like frying and clogging up coils, which is what happens to both my current tanks with Max VG juices. So I get a nice tank that not only lets me play around with different ohms, wattage's, build setups, but I also get to play around with different juices too!

This is going to be my indestructible test tube for vaping and I really do appreciate all the input and guidance :)
 
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Zakillah

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I run 50/50 juice and my current setup has "leaked" exactly once on me.
It lost half a ml during a bumpy ride, lying on its side in the trunk in summer heat.
Other then that, no issues and I use it for a year now.

You might have to fiddle with the mesh a little to get it right, but once you got it, it's as close to leak proof as a tank can get.
 

JDC1958

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I run 50/50 juice and my current setup has "leaked" exactly once on me.
It lost half a ml during a bumpy ride, lying on its side in the trunk in summer heat.
Other then that, no issues and I use it for a year now.

You might have to fiddle with the mesh a little to get it right, but once you got it, it's as close to leak proof as a tank can get.
What size mesh is yours?
 
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