Thanks @JeremyR you my friend are awesome!!
Rayon Wick - Better Flow, Flavor, Longevity, and Nic Hit!! - Pt.2
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There are various causes. First things first, always inspect your work and look for any coloration signs that can point to the problem. If its dryish hits your Wick is probably loose in the coil check that first by pushing on the Wick by the coil to see if you expose a gap that stays when you let go. If it does you need more density.
If you see dark Tails your Tails could be too thick and reduce Wick speed.
The pancake is probably a combination of coil diameter and amount in the pancake.. You may have too small a coil to have enough density for pancake. Or simply just how and where the pancake is placed.
Yeah unfortunately there aren't any tails to diagnose, because the bunny-ear method just leads to an unstructured mass of cotton at either end. The rayon seems fine within the coil. I got good squeaking putting it in, it has slight shoulders, it's making contact with the coil correctly.
Although the dry hitting settled down once the wick broke in, so what I'm most concerned about is the muted flavor I'm getting compared to cotton. I guess I'm hoping someone has a better wicking method for the subtank mini to offer than bunny ears or the pancake.
I know doing the thing where you pull the cotton strand all the way through—from one juice hole through the coil to the other juice hole—is all the rage lately, so I guess I'll try that next. I'm just concerned about how much I'll be able to thin out the tails to still have them blocking the juice holes. I feel like I'm not really "trying" rayon if I'm not thinning out the tails a lot, and I can't see what method would let me really do that in the subtank mini.
I did the hole through hole method and trimmed to about 1/8" out. Didn't thin anything. Unflavored here so can't advise on that.
Muting is most likely a little too tight in the coil, if its too tight it will mute. One of the first things we noticed back in the day. The good thing is thay its still usable where cotton would be a redo right away. Use a little less next time. Might have just overdone it a little bit.
You really don't need anywhere near the amount to block the holes like cotton. Just a thin layer will control the juice.
The mass of Rayon is the tail and they are probably dark colored as a result right? The Wick will run clean and clear when working efficiently.
There's many different ways that can work. If the Wick is straight and short with juice feeding at the ends it won't need as much thinning. Like an evod, tiafun gs or squape. They just trim at channels to control juice flow. If the Wick bends or turns thinning is needed.
I'm guessing bunny ear you mean just a full Wick. Heres what you do take that, place your scissors vertically at the base edge of deck. Angle the scissors in towards the coil a little and cut. Leaving some space of full Wick outside the coil. Your Tails will look like this / ** \, should be no problem. You effectively removed half the tail desnsity by angle cutting it.
If the length is sufficient to cover a paper thin part over the channels or holes should suffice in most cases. So don't think - it wouldn't work with cotton... Actually if you are thinking that its probably close to being right.
Don't think of cotton at all, sculpt your Wick for smooth juice transfer. Actually, I have said in a while but, you want the Tails cascading down like a water fall kinda. A smooth cascade down.
Use more in the coil than you would with cotton and much less in the Tails.
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Muting is NOT normal or we wouldn't be using it. We believe we get superior pure flavor.
Its just the learning curve. When you hit the correct density you will know it, and probably say wow out loud. Everything starts to pop like the title says. You'll likely also get the nic buzz at that time.
It will take some trial and error.
Its just the learning curve. When you hit the correct density you will know it, and probably say wow out loud. Everything starts to pop like the title says. You'll likely also get the nic buzz at that time.
It will take some trial and error.
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Oh also, the op is a great reference. Review the how to use section closely. Small things make a difference. As you learn you'll gain understanding as you see how it works.
The coloring of the Wick tells the best story usually. You can use various ways to get it to work. You can even try a straight cut like I do on my fev with a big main wick and take that little tail to the base and trim.
You also want to cut like a hair cut. Like don't just cut the ends of the Tails straight. Curve them out to match the deck so they fit perfectly in place. Many times after its wet down see how it sets and trim any overhang.
It takes A Lot of juice to prime Rayon. Wait a minute and check back to add more. My builds usually take about 20-30 drops to fully saturate the Wick. Give it a little time to purge air..
Hope these ramblings help. I'm getting ready to go out for the night. Lol
The coloring of the Wick tells the best story usually. You can use various ways to get it to work. You can even try a straight cut like I do on my fev with a big main wick and take that little tail to the base and trim.
You also want to cut like a hair cut. Like don't just cut the ends of the Tails straight. Curve them out to match the deck so they fit perfectly in place. Many times after its wet down see how it sets and trim any overhang.
It takes A Lot of juice to prime Rayon. Wait a minute and check back to add more. My builds usually take about 20-30 drops to fully saturate the Wick. Give it a little time to purge air..
Hope these ramblings help. I'm getting ready to go out for the night. Lol
Yeah I've been over the OPs extensively. All great information, but my Goblin Mini and Aromamizer are the only two tanks I've got with deck designs that are suited to the wick style demonstrated there, with thick trunks and little tendrils bent underneath. There's no way for that wicking to work out in the subtank mini, or not the V2 RBA anyhow.
Anyway I'm gonna let it sit for a while, see what happens when the rayon breaks in for a few days with the bunny ears. I plan on rebuilding my Gmini and Aromamizer today or tomorrow to see how the "classic/iconic" rayon wicking style performs for me. I've got rayon in the Aromamizer at the moment, but it's vertical coils. They're staying cleaner than normal, definitely, but no real change in flavor, and I want to do the iconic horizontal coil wicking.
Anyway I'm gonna let it sit for a while, see what happens when the rayon breaks in for a few days with the bunny ears. I plan on rebuilding my Gmini and Aromamizer today or tomorrow to see how the "classic/iconic" rayon wicking style performs for me. I've got rayon in the Aromamizer at the moment, but it's vertical coils. They're staying cleaner than normal, definitely, but no real change in flavor, and I want to do the iconic horizontal coil wicking.
Yeah sorry I only have a couple atties. Most are all on the same dripper style platform. So different tanks will take different methods. Sorry I've just been happy with what I have so I haven't bought a new tank in almost 2 years now.. I'm starting to get the itch for the latest and greatest going into Christmas.
This should help.. A thread search in part one for subtank mini brings up quite a few posts..
Search Results for Query: Subtank mini | E-Cigarette Forum[thread]=561226
All tank systems up to August this year will be found in the old thread. Thousands of build pictures and tutorials.
@vincom has the most information posted on the subtank mini I believe.
Search Results for Query: Subtank mini | E-Cigarette Forum[thread]=561226
All tank systems up to August this year will be found in the old thread. Thousands of build pictures and tutorials.
@vincom has the most information posted on the subtank mini I believe.
Jeremy, if you like full air flow, try an Aromamizer from Steamcrave. Unique liquid feed system, great air flow and tremendous vapor. I like the "velocity" style deck, two posts with four holes, but there's also a three post deck. It also comes in a 3m or 6ml tank size and you can switch that as needed.
I only feel it's fair I suggest that since you got me into the FEV V3!
I only feel it's fair I suggest that since you got me into the FEV V3!
I definitely checked it out from hearing your posts, I fear it may be too open and I cant like that wrist band thing. But the feed is a great design. Its up on the top of my list.
Just trim the bunny ears now. Open it cut at an angle with sharp scissors. No need to rewick if the coil density is decent.
I solved the problem of the air flow control ring very simply, I just don't use it. Others have used high grade silicon to "permanently" block one, two or three air holes to suit their tastes. I haven't measured anything, so these are eyeball measurements, but the air flow holes are at least 3.5mm and the chimney tube is over 4mm. With everything open it's an effortless draw.
Modified Aromamizer to reduce the dia of indirect airholes. Threw out silicone afc band.
I must be missing something, how does chamfering a hole reduce its diameter?
Not chamfered, exopied closed and redrilled to .070" dia.
I fooled around with smaller diameters until I landed on .070. A good compromise between enhanced flavor and enough low pressure in the atty chamber to pull in my 75vg juice while vaping at 85-95w.
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