Titanium wire, vaping and safety

[Hitcat44]

+1 to TO SteveS

What Settings?
I usually vape Ti Builds (on Erl K's, rda's, and STM rba) at between 20-24 Watts/Joules and somewhere around 480* F if device has Ti Profile or manual Set TCR (then set at .0038 TCR) and about 390-400* F if running in a Ni Profile.
I use an SXMM (manual TCR Profile), a VS-VF, and a Chel's XVO Stick. Hitting the XVO right now with a Ti-built Erl K set at 390* F and 24 W and it is purring along nicely and tastily.

I use all Unkamen Ti in 26 ga. Have some 28 ga too that I been meaning to use in some kinda Clapton design someday. No issues at all with Unkamen stuff.

Completely agree with the Logic of;
If you build and vape with Ni successfully,
You can build and vape with Ti equally if not better.

 

[Mactavish]

+1 to TO SteveS

What Settings?
I usually vape Ti Builds (on Erl K's, RDA's, and STM RBA) at between 20-24 Watts/Joules and somewhere around 480* F if Device has Ti Profile or manual Set TCR (then set at .0038 TCR) and about 390-400* F if running in a Ni Profile.
I use an SXMM (manual TCR Profile), a VS-VF, and a Chel's XVO Stick. Hitting the XVO right now with a Ti-built Erl K set at 390* F and 24 W and it is purring along nicely and tastily.

I use all Unkamen Ti in 26 ga. Have some 28 ga too that I been meaning to use in some kinda Clapton design someday. No issues at all with Unkamen stuff.

Completely agree with the Logic of;
If you build and vape with Ni successfully,
You can build and vape with Ti equally if not better.

Curious why you use a TCR of .0038 for titanium. I've read that the norm is considered.0035, and that the SteamEngine site uses .0036, which some complained was too hot for them.

 

[Hitcat44]

Simply,,,,
because that is what works for me on the SXMM w/Erl K (single 26ga Ti Coil, 5 wrap on @ 2.5 mm ID yielding 0.22 R) set at 468* F & 20-22.5 J
Your mileage and Device may vary

The YiHi SXMM sx350j (as well as a plethora of other TC Mods ie. the Xcube II) is notorious for being a tad "light" on their Algorithms and the static Givens thereof. The increase in manually input TCR compensates for their timid proclivities.
The VS-VF and XVO Stick (using Evolve DNA 40 Chipsets) does not have such User Control so I just vary the W & T accordingly depending on the mated Atty.
FAR too many variables, Device/Atty differences, and User Inputs & Preferences to have anything close to a "Cookie-Cutter" One-Size-Fits-All Answer or singular idyllic Setting Combo.
Alas,,, maybe someday such will be true and possible but for now, it just ain't happenin'

We share our Individual Settings, experiences and the results as a Reference or Jumping Off Point. Something to be used to extrapolate and then experiment from and with. Such can't be taken as "The Answer" or anything even close to a Benchmark.
Granted, TCR's are indeed proven and objective. However, when being used and applied to our "World" in the wide & varied berth they operate in, one has to "tweak" a tad when possible.
I think of it as any other Setting (W, V, Temp, R) just with a much more narrow and constricted Window of Operation. That's why most prefer a Device with the ability to set a Manual TCR and Offset. They can be dialed-in and yield a more subjectively pleasing resultant Vape.

 

[Mactavish]

Yeah, I doubt I'll be buying anymore mods that don't allow for TCR input. My Vaporshark DNA200 is the first one I have that allows this via Escribe software. I may get the new Xcube Mini as a backup, as it allows TCR input via its Bluetooth app.

 

[latexyankee]

Built some spaced dual coils with the 26g. It's better but I cannot figure out the temp. even at 520 degrees its not as hot as nickel at even 400! Hitting it now it barley warm to me at 520.

Is there a setting I'm missing in my profile? It hits temp protect quicker than my ni200 claptons which makes sense, less surface area, spaced will heat up faster etc....but it's just not providing the punch that nickel does. What am I missing folks?

Go Bucks

 

[JimScotty0]

Contact coils lighting up like a Christmas tree!!! Not sure why since I assumed contact would be less problematic....has anyone used this spider wire? I cannot see myself screwing up a contact coil after wrapping kanthal for 4 years, I can do nickel claptons all day long but the Ti has been the hardest wire I've ever used.

8 wrap contact coil 26g and always hot spots on the end and sometimes all throughout the coil. This is with pulsing at 5 watts until a very dull glow in a dark room and using tweezers to tighten the wraps but I'm using a coil jig so they are already tight. Not sure what is going on, I'm clueless.

My first Ti was SpiderSilk and it is very good quality wire but very stiff. Now I have been using Unkamen and that works well too but much cheaper.

 

[pbanj]

Yeah, I doubt I'll be buying anymore mods that don't allow for TCR input. My Vaporshark DNA200 is the first one I have that allows this via Escribe software. I may get the new Xcube Mini as a backup, as it allows TCR input via its Bluetooth app.

It may let you put it in without the app just like the full sized xcube. I hope it does as the app is really hit or miss

 

[JimScotty0]

Well I just spent an hour building a dual coil for the Skyfall, which is a pump tank below, that feeds the RDA, that sits above it, basically a tank squonker. Annealed the 28 gauge titanium, then made the two coils, slow pulsed them on the mod. Wicked with KGD. Test firing at my normal STM setting of 470f, at 25 watts, with the top cap off I could see red hot legs that are long going into the posts. Just on two, not all four. This is the same issue I had with similar build on the Fountain, which is a similar tank squonker, it uses a squeeze bottle, like a Reo. These red hot legs can and will catch the cotton on fire, as I've seen it, and of course makes for a nasty vape. I spent so much time making this build, I did not want to give up. I had a feeling the normal preheat of 100 watts on my Vaporshark DNA200, may be the cause, as that's when the leads go hot, on first button fire. Went into Escribe, and turned OFF all preheat settings. No more red hot legs! Seems to be working.

BUILD:
Dual coils, Titanium 28 gauge, 5.5 wraps, 2.5mm ID. Fairly wide coil spread.
According to steam engine total resistance should be .20 ohms. The mod shows .27 ohms. I assume it's the long leads needed to get to the posts.

I'm a pretty novice builder, most of them on simple Subtank Minis, the coils use very short leads, and it's an easy build using mostly 24 gauge Ti, 5-6 wraps. So I have NO idea how folks deal with really long leads that don't sit in the cotton, are mostly out in the open and can get HOT? I've seen photos of builds like mine, so I'm not sure what the difference may be. But certainly turning OFF the preheat settings, has helped. Ideas welcome!

Personally I like the design of the Skyfall but since I only do TC I was very much concerned that such a design would not work for TC. Too many components and most likely too much variance in resistance due to all the possible connections. Long coil legs are another reason to be concerned. Since I have no direct experience myself I can't say for sure, but unfortunately I would be very surprised if you can make this atty work reliably with temperature control. But I would like to know if you can make it work since the design is very interesting.

 

[jj6404]

Right now with my titanium fused Clapton in my hobo v3 I have my reuleaux at 100w preheat and 60w, that seems to get it there fairly quick. I'm sure when you try spaced you will have much better luck.

What gauge Ti did you use for the core and what wire (type & gauge) for the wrap? Also, is your fused claptons contact or spaced? I'm going to try a Ti/KA1 dual fused clapton build soon and don't want to waste the wire without some tips first. All I have is 24g Ti and 36g KA1 ATM.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Rockwell222]

What gauge Ti did you use for the core and what wire (type & gauge) for the wrap? Also, is your fused claptons contact or spaced? I'm going to try a Ti/KA1 dual fused clapton build soon and don't want to waste the wire without some tips first. All I have is 24g Ti and 36g KA1 ATM.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So far I've done several different claptons but a like 26ti core with 34 or 36ka1 wrap. I also did a 24ti core with 36ka1 wrap and it works well I just like how the 26 works. I even fit some ti claptons in my crius v3 and I can't believe the difference from a twisted ti build to a ti Clapton. And yes they are all spaced. At this time with so many builds I've done I don't even pulse them at low watts anymore to make sure they glow evenly. Not one of my spaced ti builds have had hot legs or any unevenness so I just build and make sure it's properly spaced and vape. Let me know if you have any other questions and hope you enjoy it.

 

[jj6404]

So far I've done several different claptons but a like 26ti core with 34 or 36ka1 wrap. I also did a 24ti core with 36ka1 wrap and it works well I just like how the 26 works. I even fit some ti claptons in my crius v3 and I can't believe the difference from a twisted ti build to a ti Clapton. And yes they are all spaced. At this time with so many builds I've done I don't even pulse them at low watts anymore to make sure they glow evenly. Not one of my spaced ti builds have had hot legs or any unevenness so I just build and make sure it's properly spaced and vape. Let me know if you have any other questions and hope you enjoy it.

I might of asked this before but what CSV or TCR did you use for your Clapton?

When you built the fused with 24g Ti1, was it a dual or single coil?

I just used the Wire Wizard to get an idea of what kind of resistance I am to expect and it looks like a dual coil fused Clapton build with 24g Ti at the core, 3mm ID, with 5 wraps spaced (which is about all I think I might be able to fit in any of my RDAs), will have a resistance of 0.044. Sounds way too low to be accurate in TC. I plan to use it on my VT200 but I know TC seems to waiver the lower the resistance gets.

 

[Reflections]

Hi all,

I have been building titanium coils (spaced and contact coils) for the past 2 weeks on tfv4 without success. Running the tank with ipv d2 or evic vt mini.

Every time I build a new coil, the first 1/2 to full tank would feel good vaping. But the firing would weaken on the next refill. I will have to increase the temp in order to improve the firing. The flavour also degraded. It would weaken until it cannot be fired. New coil cannot last more than 1 day.

I am using 24awg ti gr1 wire with 9-10 wraps and Diameter 3mm. Resistance is at 0.28 to 0.33ohms. New coil firing at 420F and 24joules was good. Subsequently has to increase the temp as the firing weaken. I would wrap a coil and set up the tank with juice and then sit the tank for 5 mins before locking the resistance.

Anyone has any idea where I did wrong? The coil just couldn't last more than a day.

 

[TheotherSteveS]

Hi all,

I have been building titanium coils (spaced and contact coils) for the past 2 weeks on tfv4 without success. Running the tank with ipv d2 or evic vt mini.

Every time I build a new coil, the first 1/2 to full tank would feel good vaping. But the firing would weaken on the next refill. I will have to increase the temp in order to improve the firing. The flavour also degraded. It would weaken until it cannot be fired. New coil cannot last more than 1 day.

I am using 24awg ti gr1 wire with 9-10 wraps and Diameter 3mm. Resistance is at 0.28 to 0.33ohms. New coil firing at 420F and 24joules was good. Subsequently has to increase the temp as the firing weaken. I would wrap a coil and set up the tank with juice and then sit the tank for 5 mins before locking the resistance.

Anyone has any idea where I did wrong? The coil just couldn't last more than a day.

If you see the vape tailing off, try tightening the deck screws down again! I assume you are using the RBA on the tvf4..

 

[cigatron]

Botched post

 

[Rockwell222]

I might of asked this before but what CSV or TCR did you use for your Clapton?

When you built the fused with 24g Ti1, was it a dual or single coil?

I just used the Wire Wizard to get an idea of what kind of resistance I am to expect and it looks like a dual coil fused Clapton build with 24g Ti at the core, 3mm ID, with 5 wraps spaced (which is about all I think I might be able to fit in any of my RDAs), will have a resistance of 0.044. Sounds way too low to be accurate in TC. I plan to use it on my VT200 but I know TC seems to waiver the lower the resistance gets.

I used the tcr from steamengine.org I believe. Whichever one has the custom profiles for the DNA 200 and just selected ti01 and uploaded csv file. With the 24 fused Clapton I would really only use single unless you use one less wrap for duals which may be a little pointless. The 26 fused Clapton works really well and that's what I'm using as of now. I almost got my titanium alien Clapton down, my new batch of wire is waiting for me so I'll be doing it tonight or tomorrow. Any other questions just let me know and good luck.

 

[TheotherSteveS]

I might of asked this before but what CSV or TCR did you use for your Clapton?

When you built the fused with 24g Ti1, was it a dual or single coil?

I just used the Wire Wizard to get an idea of what kind of resistance I am to expect and it looks like a dual coil fused Clapton build with 24g Ti at the core, 3mm ID, with 5 wraps spaced (which is about all I think I might be able to fit in any of my RDAs), will have a resistance of 0.044. Sounds way too low to be accurate in TC. I plan to use it on my VT200 but I know TC seems to waiver the lower the resistance gets.

0.044 is so low the mod may not even fire it!

 

[Reflections]

Hi,

Yes, I am using the single coil rba. The screw is tight. I noticed that my cotton is always broken in the middle. It is very easy to remove the cotton from the coil. It will break into half.

Did a new spaced coil. 24awg ti gr1 with 8 wraps. Resistance locked at 0.28 running on evic vt. Temp is 450F and 26w. Is this too high that will cause the cotton to burn?

 

[jmarkus]

Hi,

Yes, I am using the single coil rba. The screw is tight. I noticed that my cotton is always broken in the middle. It is very easy to remove the cotton from the coil. It will break into half.

Did a new spaced coil. 24awg ti gr1 with 8 wraps. Resistance locked at 0.28 running on evic vt. Temp is 450F and 26w. Is this too high that will cause the cotton to burn?

have you tried the cotton burn test? that should help solve the burning wick problem. just find out what temp the cotton singes. put dry cotton through the coil. press fire. move cotton slightly to see if its discolored and adjust temp.

edit: actually, i just read that the cotton burn test doesnt work on the evic and will burn the cotton no matter what temp?!

 

[Reflections]

Yes. Did a cotton test with evic vt. I see the discoloration at around 390F. Adjusted down to 370F and seems to be OK. But the flavour is very mild and not to my liking.

Now the new coil I did last night is not working. Did refill to 1/2 tank. Firing is super weak at 450F at 26w.

Could there be problem with my tfv4 rba?

 

[Hdivr]

Yes. Did a cotton test with evic vt. I see the discoloration at around 390F. Adjusted down to 370F and seems to be OK. But the flavour is very mild and not to my liking.

Now the new coil I did last night is not working. Did refill to 1/2 tank. Firing is super weak at 450F at 26w.

Could there be problem with my tfv4 rba?

I had a similar problem with a different RTA. Was working great and then performance just dropped off. Everything was showing fine on my TC mod. Proper settings, just a very weak vape. I couldn't figure it out until I cleaned my 510 connection on my mod with some alcohol and q-tips. I also lightly sanded the pin on the RTA to make sure everything was nice and shiny.

Put it all back together and BAM! clouds galore. Just wasn't a good electrical connection. 330F at 30w.