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DIY Mechanical Switch

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Just done up a series build with an extremely simple mechanical switch. Bolt + Nut + Spring. Completes the circuit when in contact with another bolt + nut to the side of the body connected to the batteries.

Did it to see if it works, and it does work. It's just the testing phase of the build. My aim is to build a series mod without a mosfet.

Safety is the #1 priority here. Still need to figure out a locking mechanism for it. Will be using a metal casing and sex bolts for the switch in the future.

Keep on vaping! Keep on modding!

rsz_1120151130_174621_hdr.jpg
rsz_120151130_174624_hdr.jpg
 
very very dangerous.
if there's no atty on it, body not insulated and the whole battery current dumps on you, you'll get a death pulse. (but of course not very easy to happen :evil:)

however though why not get some decent stuff and incorp a mosfet? Things will last longer as well.
Correct me if I'm wrong, but isn't the body of tube mech mods the negative of the circuit?
 
very very dangerous.
if there's no atty on it, body not insulated and the whole battery current dumps on you, you'll get a death pulse. (but of course not very easy to happen :evil:)

however though why not get some decent stuff and incorp a mosfet? Things will last longer as well.
As for the mosfet though... it's just a goal to achieve. Inspiration from the new noisy cricket mod hehe. That thing is sexy as hell!!
 

WarA

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Correct me if I'm wrong, but isn't the body of tube mech mods the negative of the circuit?

thats why hard to happen, due to the higher resistance of the body. BUT can still happen through murphy's law.

Actually why don't get a button? roughly 2 dollar only :/

edit the buttons i'm talking about is screw on leads so no soldering required as well
 
thats why hard to happen, due to the higher resistance of the body. BUT can still happen through murphy's law.

Actually why don't get a button? roughly 2 dollar only :/

edit the buttons i'm talking about is screw on leads so no soldering required as well
So technically tube mods are very very dangerous x 10 ;)

Already coped 2 vandal switches, the ones with the screw-on posts. I just personally love to DIY and won't settle for the standard. If i could make everything myself from scratch (including the 510 connection), I'll get on it right away hehe!
 
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Also main concern would rather be the sturdiness of the switch, if suay suay it doesn't disconnect and short for extended period of time sparks will fly. And thats also why tube mod keep getting bad press.

But anyways good effort :thumbs:
Hahaha ya that's a concern to me too. This mod's switch too damn wonky, testing testing only for now. It won't be used for my daily doses that's for sure.

Thing's I need: Hammond box, better spring, step drill bit, 22awg wires, contacts to replace 18650 holder springs. Missing anything?
 
your switch to 510 like a bit too thin ah maybe up the thickness to 18awg.
you can actually do 2 switch in series, one without spring one with to "lock" it.

everything is cheap online :evil:
Oh ya hor! Hahaha nice! Roger that, upping the wire diameter as well.

"What treasure? You mean the internet?"
 
Any update on ur diy? I going to build one soon when I get all my parts and the mosfet.
No updates. Haven't progressed since that last build. Still figuring out how the locking mechanism is gonna work, and I plan to have no wires at all in my future builds. And parts cost money as well hahaha.

Do update us with your build though! Always so curious to see peoples' creations.
 

VapGeek

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Done with my first box mod using 1590B box :) Using the typical unregulated box mod wiring diagram.
Why box mod? Because disposable, dual batteries last longer and I cant get a unregulated tube mod. ..
Cost can range from 1 pack of analog to 5 packs of analog, depending on what you get and source.


Box Mod - 1590B - Copy.jpg


Dual 18650 running parallel, with individual 15A re-settable fuse. Single MOSFET included for switch.
The reason for single instead of two MOSFET running at parallel, is because my MOSFET is attached (thermal adhesive) to the box for better cooling, thus able to take much higher amperage.

Box Mod - 1590B 02 - Copy.jpg


I tried to be as neat as possible for safety reasons as well as a bit blink factor ;p

Box Mod - 18650 Battery Holder with Fuse - Copy.jpg


If u take a closer look at the terminals on the right side, you can notice the 15A fuse (little white protrusion) attached to the terminals.

Box Mod - 18650 Battery Holder with Fuse02 - Copy.jpg


I solder them directly to the terminals. Since the fuses fits snugly at the gap, this prevents too much movements at breaks the fuses.

If I were to do it again (Which I am likely to, using a smaller box 1590G):
1) I will using a 12mm switch instead of 16mm switch for more space
2) Get better 510 connectors. (The one I used, wasnt able to take 14 AWG wires directly)
3) Plan out the safety switch location in advance ;p
4) Solder the MOSFET Drain first, before installation. This is because the cooling is so effective that it is hard to get the solder to melt.


Oh yeah.. If u need to ask where to get the parts or diagram, you are definitely not suitable for DIY. Cause unregulated Box Mod, if not done or used with care = BOOOMM :)
 
Last edited:
Done with my first box mod using 1590B box :) Using the typical unregulated box mod wiring diagram.
Why box mod? Because disposable, dual batteries last longer and I cant get a unregulated tube mod. ..
Cost can range from 1 pack of analog to 5 packs of analog, depending on what you get and source.


View attachment 518484

Dual 18650 running parallel, with individual 15A re-settable fuse. Single MOSFET included for switch.
The reason for single instead of two MOSFET running at parallel, is because my MOSFET is attached (thermal adhesive) to the box for better cooling, thus able to take much higher amperage.

View attachment 518485

I tried to be as neat as possible for safety reasons as well as a bit blink factor ;p

View attachment 518486

If u take a closer look at the terminals on the right side, you can notice the 15A fuse (little white protrusion) attached to the terminals.

View attachment 518487

I solder them directly to the terminals. Since the fuses fits snugly at the gap, this prevents too much movements at breaks the fuses.

If I were to do it again (Which I am likely to, using a smaller box 1590G):
1) I will using a 12mm switch instead of 16mm switch for more space
2) Get better 510 connectors. (The one I used, wasnt able to take 14 AWG wires directly)
3) Plan out the safety switch location in advance ;p
4) Solder the MOSFET Drain first, before installation. This is because the cooling is so effective that it is hard to get the solder to melt.


Oh yeah.. If u need to ask where to get the parts or diagram, you are definitely not suitable for DIY. Cause unregulated Box Mod, if not done or used with care = BOOOMM :)
Whoa now that's an uber clean build! Veeery pleasing to the eye! How is it so far?
 

VapGeek

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Oct 11, 2015
213
114
47
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Whoa now that's an uber clean build! Veeery pleasing to the eye! How is it so far?

Working very well electrically. But the box is too big for my hands, so not that comfortable. The 1590G box will be a perfect size! Am ordering that for my next box. Quite fun to build though.

Meanwhile, this will let me understand better about unregulated mods and the relation with coil build.

BTW do consider using the MOSFET if u want to do DIY switch, so that u dont have to worry if ur switch can handle the current.
 
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