I use this stuff for magnets and other purposes. Strong as epoxy, though thinner; sets up fast and cures overnight.
http://www.amazon.com/Loctite-13658...1447580265&sr=8-2&keywords=loctite+super+glue
BOTTOM FEEDERS= a place for everything modified and/or custom made
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I use this stuff for magnets and other purposes. Strong as epoxy, though thinner; sets up fast and cures overnight.
http://www.amazon.com/Loctite-13658...1447580265&sr=8-2&keywords=loctite+super+glue
Definitely curious to see how that one turns out,that's a tight space to work in haha.I barely squeezed 2 lipo's and a dna 30 in one.
You an me both
. No but seriously, on paper it works, I just have to get the parts and start doing it. We will see.
My Galatika Mod with a DNA 200. The DNA 40 just wasn't enough. The Twisted Messes was also modded to squonk.
Hey guys, been some time I've posted but I do follow you every now and then and am always happy to see your new creations.
I finished a new squonker and figured you'd like to see some pics. This is a YiHi SX350J temp board squonker mod made exclusively for one of my Nuppin atties. The 510 fitting is sunk-in somewhat and the opening is only 20mm so it only takes small atties like the Nuppin (this was by choice).
Everything you see here is machined by hand and the biggest challenge I had was the squonk bottle configuration. I wanted to stay away from doors as they ruin (in my mind) the design so I had to come up with a way to remove the bottle easily since there is nowhere to grab it from to remove it. Similar mods I've seen have the user try to grab the bottle from the squonk hole and try to twist it out. This method really is a pain in the .... because if you finally do manage to get the bottle out then you have to get it back in (which is a feat in itself to find blindly the squonk tube). So I machined from delrin a new bottle cap which is the same diameter as the squonk tube and is fixed in there permanently. To overcome the bottle removal problem I machined (also from delrin) a bottle bottom cap which is bonded to the bottom of the bottle and has a metal tab that opens for easy unscrewing. Now the bottle can be refilled real easy by just grabbing the tab under it and unscrewing the whole bottle.
The battery cap was machined from stainless and then polished. The face plate and buttons are made from aluminum and the board is fixed behind the face plate.
This is the first time I use the SX350J board and I must say that its a great chip.
Here are a few shots before completion so you see the internal milling
This is the FD 510 which has been machined down to 19.8mm diameter
The internal cavity for the battery and the SX350J board
The battery tube. The battery cap you see in the first pictures screws into a ring that sits in this opening and connects the bat negative terminal. I didn't want to make a metal tube for the battery to save on weight so I just machined a ring (about 3/4" long out of stainless steel) I then cut threads into it on the lathe then machined a cap that screws into it. The ring was epoxied into the wood so the cap sit flush when fully screwed in.
I finished a new squonker and figured you'd like to see some pics. This is a YiHi SX350J temp board squonker mod made exclusively for one of my Nuppin atties. The 510 fitting is sunk-in somewhat and the opening is only 20mm so it only takes small atties like the Nuppin (this was by choice).
Everything you see here is machined by hand and the biggest challenge I had was the squonk bottle configuration. I wanted to stay away from doors as they ruin (in my mind) the design so I had to come up with a way to remove the bottle easily since there is nowhere to grab it from to remove it. Similar mods I've seen have the user try to grab the bottle from the squonk hole and try to twist it out. This method really is a pain in the .... because if you finally do manage to get the bottle out then you have to get it back in (which is a feat in itself to find blindly the squonk tube). So I machined from delrin a new bottle cap which is the same diameter as the squonk tube and is fixed in there permanently. To overcome the bottle removal problem I machined (also from delrin) a bottle bottom cap which is bonded to the bottom of the bottle and has a metal tab that opens for easy unscrewing. Now the bottle can be refilled real easy by just grabbing the tab under it and unscrewing the whole bottle.
The battery cap was machined from stainless and then polished. The face plate and buttons are made from aluminum and the board is fixed behind the face plate.
This is the first time I use the SX350J board and I must say that its a great chip.
Here are a few shots before completion so you see the internal milling
This is the FD 510 which has been machined down to 19.8mm diameter
The internal cavity for the battery and the SX350J board
The battery tube. The battery cap you see in the first pictures screws into a ring that sits in this opening and connects the bat negative terminal. I didn't want to make a metal tube for the battery to save on weight so I just machined a ring (about 3/4" long out of stainless steel) I then cut threads into it on the lathe then machined a cap that screws into it. The ring was epoxied into the wood so the cap sit flush when fully screwed in.
Beautiful mod captain, really exceptional job. Very clean look.Hey guys, been some time I've posted but I do follow you every now and then and am always happy to see your new creations.
I finished a new squonker and figured you'd like to see some pics. This is a YiHi SX350J temp board squonker mod made exclusively for one of my Nuppin atties. The 510 fitting is sunk-in somewhat and the opening is only 20mm so it only takes small atties like the Nuppin (this was by choice).
Everything you see here is machined by hand and the biggest challenge I had was the squonk bottle configuration. I wanted to stay away from doors as they ruin (in my mind) the design so I had to come up with a way to remove the bottle easily since there is nowhere to grab it from to remove it. Similar mods I've seen have the user try to grab the bottle from the squonk hole and try to twist it out. This method really is a pain in the .... because if you finally do manage to get the bottle out then you have to get it back in (which is a feat in itself to find blindly the squonk tube). So I machined from delrin a new bottle cap which is the same diameter as the squonk tube and is fixed in there permanently. To overcome the bottle removal problem I machined (also from delrin) a bottle bottom cap which is bonded to the bottom of the bottle and has a metal tab that opens for easy unscrewing. Now the bottle can be refilled real easy by just grabbing the tab under it and unscrewing the whole bottle.
The battery cap was machined from stainless and then polished. The face plate and buttons are made from aluminum and the board is fixed behind the face plate.
This is the first time I use the SX350J board and I must say that its a great chip.
Here are a few shots before completion so you see the internal milling
This is the FD 510 which has been machined down to 19.8mm diameter
The internal cavity for the battery and the SX350J board
The battery tube. The battery cap you see in the first pictures screws into a ring that sits in this opening and connects the bat negative terminal. I didn't want to make a metal tube for the battery to save on weight so I just machined a ring (about 3/4" long out of stainless steel) I then cut threads into it on the lathe then machined a cap that screws into it. The ring was epoxied into the wood so the cap sit flush when fully screwed in.
Very nice, Capt. Did you end up having to use any epoxy to secure the board? Was wondering how much of a pain it is to fit one of those boards.
The SX350J board has holes on it's sides so it can be secured with screws and spacers to the faceplate. Most mods I've seen that use it have holes drilled threw the faceplate and screws on the front face. I wanted a cleaner look without any screws on the faceplate so what I did is drill and tap the back of the faceplate so the screws aren't visible.
It is a bit of a pain to get the alignment right because if you don't the screen will end up looking wonky. I ended up making a template of the board and measuring about 20 times before I milled the faceplate.
3 version of Steam Crave squonker
DNA200 350j and the original version
Loved the design of this squonk mod
DNA200 350j and the original version
Loved the design of this squonk mod
Awesome work as usual @CaptSteve ... I know its been a while since you've shared your passion and attention to detail, but I never thought We'd ever see another since you got your pinch. Thanks for sharing with us again.
Thanks muzichead, believe me it's not intentional that I don't build that much anymore but since I got my Pinch I've found that I'm so satisfied that I really don't need any other mods. This was just an experiment to try the SX350J board. I have a few more ideas I wanna try so you'll certainly see some more stuff in future.
Awesome. Work...My Galatika Mod with a DNA 200. The DNA 40 just wasn't enough. The Twisted Messes was also modded to squonk.
Capt can you tell me how thick is the front ss plate that you milled for the wood mod? ..Also what adhesive did you used on the front plate? Have a few old boards laying around and what to use them for practice mods.... what wire gauge of copper single strand wire is used for negative contact and whats used for all others, positive and neg of drip cup, switches etc.....
Sorry for all the noob questions...
Sorry for all the noob questions...
Ok let me try and answer all that for you. The face plate isn't SS, it's aluminum and it's about 3/16" (slightly less if I recall). I attached it with liquid metal epoxy (it's a 2 part made by JB Weld). Now as far as wiring any board I STRONGLY suggest you follow the wiring gauge the manufacturer recommends. Just download the specs and they'll tell you what thickness to use for each wire. I just wired my 510 connector and the battery with the same wires YiHi recommends.
Sorry I never got back on this one. My idea was a 2s lipo which would fit. Unfortunately got tied up.
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