OBS Crius RTA?

[Hightech Redneck]

Spoke to a supervisor at wetvapes today. They told me if I receive a cracked one they will immediately send me a new deck. I have a deck and a full v3 on the way. The jb jet weld idea has promise but not sure if certain Juices could break it down. Maybe we could make a sleeve or guard to deflect the juice away from the ceramic? I really like the tank and fear my new sets will be flawed.

 

[jefx]

What am I missing here? Too many are 'cracked'. Maybe they're not cracked. Maybe the insulation platform is assembled that way for a reason.

On second thought, you may be correct. Instead of viewing the broken insulators as poor QC, we should be viewing it as an exclusive feature!

The new Updated Crius! Now with broken ceramic shards and extra leaks! Get yours today!

 

[jefx]

FAQs

According to that, it's resistant to water, gasoline, petroleum, and any automotive chemicals.

It's also an electrical insulator, and can withstand temps up to 600 degrees for a length of 10 minutes.

PG is also an automotive chemical.

I'm gonna try it. Can't be worse than shattered ceramic. Lol.

 

[ashtrayogdc]

FAQs

According to that, it's resistant to water, gasoline, petroleum, and any automotive chemicals.

It's also an electrical insulator, and can withstand temps up to 600 degrees for a length of 10 minutes.

PG is also an automotive chemical.

I'm gonna try it. Can't be worse than shattered ceramic. Lol.

Sweet keep us posted buddy.

 

[AmandaD]

Just a quick question to make sure. Are you closing off the juice control when filling?

Yup! And even though I'm using high VG (at least 83%) I've had the juice flow half closed.

 

[Heartsdelight]

I can say from personal experience that OBS cares very little the consumer. Attempts to discuss the problems with their tank have drawn a blank. They are the opposite side of the spectrum from a manufacturer like Cthulhu Mod's whom answers e-mails and want's feedback on the design and function of their tanks.

Two suppliers and the attitudes are night and day.

I think it might be a language barrier. Cos they have made updates based upon YouTube reviewers requests. Rather quickly. Perhaps different employees in customer service then in development.

 

[Eatenback2life]

What have you guys found as your preferred height for the cool above the air intake??


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[EDO]

I use 50/50 juice and I fill it to the top without closing the juice flow or the airflow.

 

[Marc411]

I think it might be a language barrier. Cos they have made updates based upon YouTube reviewers requests. Rather quickly. Perhaps different employees in customer service then in development.

I've used the contact form and sent 3 e-mails with zero response. I believe they take orders from English speaking retailers. One e-mail to Cthulhu Mod's and I had the issue resolved overnight.

And OBS Crius website has considerable content in English. I'm more inclined to believe it's a philosophy of their customer service driven by poor quality control and overwhelming problems.

 

[Hightech Redneck]

I've used the contact form and sent 3 e-mails with zero response. I believe they take orders from English speaking retailers. One e-mail to Cthulhu Mod's and I had the issue resolved overnight.

And OBS Crius website has considerable content in English. I'm more inclined to believe it's a philosophy of their customer service driven by poor quality control and overwhelming problems.

Wording shows very little English understanding which is typical. Have you tried going to google translate and sending your email in chinese? If you do, double translate it. Change it to Chinese and then go back and change that back to English so you can adjust wording to help it make sense. Might be worth a shot. And add this thread to show them potentially 235,000 members could be reading this and not buying defective tanks. You never know.

 

[Marc411]

Great thought HTR, I'll let you know how that works.

That was the point that I tried to make to them and gave them a link to this thread. I've been pretty lucky, I have three in perfect shape and two that are bad. My problem is that I really like the tank.

 

[izen]

Ok, sorry... that earlier post was premature of me. Certainly can't be cracked by design. I hadn't even inspected mine when I posted that, but c'mon, so many cracked? So I broke down my setup (it's SS), and found that it's fine. Solid. Not cracked, as I see that many are. Mine 'sweats' a bit. Sometimes I get some wetness on the top of my mod. Not a lot, but even a little annoys me. I haven't had leaks. Just some wetness. The tank itself and the features it offers is impressive. This is a mass-produced item folks! High-end RTL's are far more expensive. For what this is... great AFC, JFC !!! Very cool top (side) fill !!! This is a NICE tank. The feature set and convenience of it is impressive. It ticks all the right boxes. Well almost, maybe not yet, but I don't think they're done. OBS has responded to consumer & reviewer requests... In less than 2 months (if I'm not mistaken), they're refined, improved, changed the build deck three times !!! Still a mass-produced item. And they've (obviously) cut some corners; i.e., ceramic insulator instead of peek. Maybe that's next based on what's happening now,

I was thinking... (sometimes that gets me in trouble - and usually when I share my thoughts, like I'm doing now)... They must have to drill a hole through the insulator for a screw underneath (going through it from the bottom) to anchor the positive post to the deck. Peek is a polymer and wouldn't crack, but the ceramic they're using isn't as forgiving and cracks around the hole from the pressure of tightening the post to the deck during the assembly process. Don't know whether it's automated or done manually. Now (honestly), I'm guessing about this as I don't know sh%t about how it's actually manufactured. But it seems to me not a huge problem that will be corrected.

Another question (the answer to which I'm uncertain of - so I ask); For you all, who have a black tank with a cracked insulator... Does this affect performance? How so? Sorry if it's a dumb question, but... does it leak because of this, and if so... how much? How real a problem is this? A short while ago, this was a wonderful high performance tank. Now, it seems to be (in some folks minds) a compromised POS from a manufacturer who couldn't care less.

I know a few things about manufacturing and mass-production (not a lot maybe but more than most), and I'll go out on a limb... Not every manufacturer is setup to respond directly to consumers who use their products, and for a variety of reasons that I can't go into, but... that's what distributors, middlemen, and dealers are for. It's great when some are responsive ... like Leo @Crown but that's more the exception than the rule... and doesn't necessarily make for a better product. Got a problem with what you've purchased ??? Go back to where you got it. Why should one's ego get offended because a manufacturer didn't answer an email? (Why take it personally?) It's not always personal.

I imagine this is a real nightmare for WetVapes. They're losing money on this tank. That's not how business should go. Hopefully OBS WILL be responsive to them... Fix the problems and make them (WetVapes) whole. Because WetVapes IS making you guys (the ones with the 'bad' tanks) whole... This chapter (as we all know) isn't finished. I hope it ends well and I'm guessing it will... This is a GREAT tank. I hope they continue to refine & improve it some more.

 

[AmandaD]

Mine is a silver tank with a crack - it was fantastic for the first hour, and now it's leaking very badly. It's even leaking sitting on a table by itself with the juice control closed...

 

[jefx]

Ok, sorry... that earlier post was premature of me. Certainly can't be cracked by design. I hadn't even inspected mine when I posted that, but c'mon, so many cracked? So I broke down my setup (it's SS), and found that it's fine. Solid. Not cracked, as I see that many are. Mine 'sweats' a bit. Sometimes I get some wetness on the top of my mod. Not a lot, but even a little annoys me. I haven't had leaks. Just some wetness. The tank itself and the features it offers is impressive. This is a mass-produced item folks! High-end RTL's are far more expensive. For what this is... great AFC, JFC !!! Very cool top (side) fill !!! This is a NICE tank. The feature set and convenience of it is impressive. It ticks all the right boxes. Well almost, maybe not yet, but I don't think they're done. OBS has responded to consumer & reviewer requests... In less than 2 months (if I'm not mistaken), they're refined, improved, changed the build deck three times !!! Still a mass-produced item. And they've (obviously) cut some corners; i.e., ceramic insulator instead of peek. Maybe that's next based on what's happening now,

I was thinking... (sometimes that gets me in trouble - and usually when I share my thoughts, like I'm doing now)... They must have to drill a hole through the insulator for a screw underneath (going through it from the bottom) to anchor the positive post to the deck. Peek is a polymer and wouldn't crack, but the ceramic they're using isn't as forgiving and cracks around the hole from the pressure of tightening the post to the deck during the assembly process. Don't know whether it's automated or done manually. Now (honestly), I'm guessing about this as I don't know sh%t about how it's actually manufactured. But it seems to me not a huge problem that will be corrected.

Another question (the answer to which I'm uncertain of - so I ask); For you all, who have a black tank with a cracked insulator... Does this affect performance? How so? Sorry if it's a dumb question, but... does it leak because of this, and if so... how much? How real a problem is this? A short while ago, this was a wonderful high performance tank. Now, it seems to be (in some folks minds) a compromised POS from a manufacturer who couldn't care less.

I know a few things about manufacturing and mass-production (not a lot maybe but more than most), and I'll go out on a limb... Not every manufacturer is setup to respond directly to consumers who use their products, and for a variety of reasons that I can't go into, but... that's what distributors, middlemen, and dealers are for. It's great when some are responsive ... like Leo @Crown but that's more the exception than the rule... and doesn't necessarily make for a better product. Got a problem with what you've purchased ??? Go back to where you got it. Why should one's ego get offended because a manufacturer didn't answer an email? (Why take it personally?) It's not always personal.

I imagine this is a real nightmare for WetVapes. They're losing money on this tank. That's not how business should go. Hopefully OBS WILL be responsive to them... Fix the problems and make them (WetVapes) whole. Because WetVapes IS making you guys (the ones with the 'bad' tanks) whole... This chapter (as we all know) isn't finished. I hope it ends well and I'm guessing it will... This is a GREAT tank. I hope they continue to refine & improve it some more.

Does it affect the performance? It does for mine. bad leaking and ceramic chips in my mouth equate to bad performance in my book.

After removing the positive pin and block from my deck, it seems pretty obvious that the cracking is happening during the "pressing" of the base section. the "press" that is sandwiching that unit together is also shattering the insulator in the process. This could have been resolved with:
1. less fragile insulator material
2. threaded post to block connection
3. properly calibrated press

I don't buy any vape gear willy nilly. I do homework on any item I buy before I buy it. I bought the Crius based on it's feature set and positive reviews...... I want to like it, but I can't like something that's damaged. I paid for a non-broken item, and that's what I expect to get.

 

[jj6404]

So I just got my Crius a few days ago. Already put a few builds through it and no leaking but I keep getting dry hits... I've watched all the videos and have lessened the amount of cotton each rewick (5 already) and each time try to put so little in the little holes that you barely just see the top of the wick looking through the circles.

I've been vaping around 50 watts (no more than 55 watts). And I can't take a 5 second hit without it getting dry at the end. Or take 3 shorter hits within a minute without getting dry hits.

Right now using 70vg juice and a 24g SS316L 7 wrap 2.4mm ID spaced build.


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[Hightech Redneck]

So I just got my Crius a few days ago. Already put a few builds through it and no leaking but I keep getting dry hits... I've watched all the videos and have lessened the amount of cotton each rewick (5 already) and each time try to put so little in the little holes that you barely just see the top of the wick looking through the circles.

I've been vaping around 50 watts (no more than 55 watts). And I can't take a 5 second hit without it getting dry at the end. Or take 3 shorter hits within a minute without getting dry hits.

Right now using 70vg juice and a 24g SS316L 7 wrap 2.4mm ID spaced build.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I use ni in mine for tc so it is slightly different than kanthal. I varied my wicking slightly as I played with the tank. The first video from tvc I posted is what I based mine on. With ni and how it reads my cotton is tight in the coil. Then I put some (half or less) of my cotton into the hole all the way down. Then trim the upper portion that's left so that it will essentially fill the edges of the chamber. Other than that I don't do anything fancy. Basic japanese cotton, with the outer edge removed. Don't know if that will help but mine has not been giving me any issues.

 

[Stinkytofus]

So I just got my Crius a few days ago. Already put a few builds through it and no leaking but I keep getting dry hits... I've watched all the videos and have lessened the amount of cotton each rewick (5 already) and each time try to put so little in the little holes that you barely just see the top of the wick looking through the circles.

I've been vaping around 50 watts (no more than 55 watts). And I can't take a 5 second hit without it getting dry at the end. Or take 3 shorter hits within a minute without getting dry hits.

Right now using 70vg juice and a 24g SS316L 7 wrap 2.4mm ID spaced build.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Cut ur wicks at an angle and stuff the long side in first, all four wick holes should be covered halfway

 

[izen]

So I just got my Crius a few days ago. Already put a few builds through it and no leaking but I keep getting dry hits... I've watched all the videos and have lessened the amount of cotton each rewick (5 already) and each time try to put so little in the little holes that you barely just see the top of the wick looking through the circles.

I've been vaping around 50 watts (no more than 55 watts). And I can't take a 5 second hit without it getting dry at the end. Or take 3 shorter hits within a minute without getting dry hits.

Right now using 70vg juice and a 24g SS316L 7 wrap 2.4mm ID spaced build.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You can have a little more of the wick's tail going into the holes, you just don't want to plug them up. Don't be afraid of that. Dry hits are still a wicking issue. Either juice isn't flowing into the wick, or the wick is to thick and choking the coil. Either way will do it, or contribute to the problem? What do you think? Which is your issue? One or the other or, maybe both.

I've watched all the video's too. Maybe missed a few (there's a lot). Typically, in a lot of the videos, you'll see a strip of wick cut-off from the rectangular pad (referring to the organic Japanese cotton pads), often one of the top layers is removed... and then one end or both is rolled thin, to a point in order to thread it through the coil. Once in and pulled through part of the way... the thicker (middle portion) of the cotton resists going though more of the coil... so you'd back-off with it, and pull it through... see-sawing... back and forth until the wick is all the way through.

It's important to see-saw back & forth a number of times to condition that portion of the wick that's through the actual coil... But on another front, those cotton pads are really pretty dense. Cotton expands a lot when juiced. Add it up...

Have you seen any vids on the Scottish Roll technique? It works pretty well... depending... I'm not saying that's what you should try... but, along the same lines (a little different). If you were to cut a strip of cotton off the pad as you normally might - but just a bit less wide. A thinner strip... and remove the top layer from one side only - and then stretch it out gently to widen it, to perhaps double or triple the width you'd started with (so maybe now it's about an inch wide), and then roll the whole thing up thin, twist to a point on one end and put it through your coil - It should go through easily.

(Sorry for the lengthy explanation, hope I was clear enough)... Juice will move through a wick like this, and you shouldn't get any dry hits. Fwiw. Wicking can be a challenge. I'm far, far, far from an 'expert', I don't claim any skills but I've made some small positive progress on my end and I'm just trying to share a bit of what's worked for me. YMMV always.

 

[freedogg]

Does it affect the performance? It does for mine. bad leaking and ceramic chips in my mouth equate to bad performance in my book.

After removing the positive pin and block from my deck, it seems pretty obvious that the cracking is happening during the "pressing" of the base section. the "press" that is sandwiching that unit together is also shattering the insulator in the process. This could have been resolved with:
1. less fragile insulator material
2. threaded post to block connection
3. properly calibrated press

I don't buy any vape gear willy nilly. I do homework on any item I buy before I buy it. I bought the Crius based on it's feature set and positive reviews...... I want to like it, but I can't like something that's damaged. I paid for a non-broken item, and that's what I expect to get.

jefx....your entire post is spot on!!!!

 

[jj6404]

You can have a little more of the wick's tail going into the holes, you just don't want to plug them up. Don't be afraid of that. Dry hits are still a wicking issue. Either juice isn't flowing into the wick, or the wick is to thick and choking the coil. Either way will do it, or contribute to the problem? What do you think? Which is your issue? One or the other or, maybe both.

I've watched all the video's too. Maybe missed a few (there's a lot). Typically, in a lot of the videos, you'll see a strip of wick cut-off from the rectangular pad (referring to the organic Japanese cotton pads), often one of the top layers is removed... and then one end or both is rolled thin, to a point in order to thread it through the coil. Once in and pulled through part of the way... the thicker (middle portion) of the cotton resists going though more of the coil... so you'd back-off with it, and pull it through... see-sawing... back and forth until the wick is all the way through.

It's important to see-saw back & forth a number of times to condition that portion of the wick that's through the actual coil... But on another front, those cotton pads are really pretty dense. Cotton expands a lot when juiced. Add it up...

Have you seen any vids on the Scottish Roll technique? It works pretty well... depending... I'm not saying that's what you should try... but, along the same lines (a little different). If you were to cut a strip of cotton off the pad as you normally might - but just a bit less wide. A thinner strip... and remove the top layer from one side only - and then stretch it out gently to widen it, to perhaps double or triple the width you'd started with (so maybe now it's about an inch wide), and then roll the whole thing up thin, twist to a point on one end and put it through your coil - It should go through easily.

(Sorry for the lengthy explanation, hope I was clear enough)... Juice will move through a wick like this, and you shouldn't get any dry hits. Fwiw. Wicking can be a challenge. I'm far, far, far from an 'expert', I don't claim any skills but I've made some small positive progress on my end and I'm just trying to share a bit of what's worked for me. YMMV always.

I know the Scottish roll and i think it was meant fit rdas and it also reduces flavor or so I've heard.

Anyway, I know I'm not choking the coil. I'm pretty experienced with building and like I said I've used so little ... cotton that i thought it would leak for sure. Maybe I am not putting enough of the ends in the circles. I've been trying to just have the very tips in the circles. I'll try once again tomorrow.

Anyway, how high have you guys vaped this rta wattage-wise regularly?

I just got back into tanks but I don't really favor them over rdas. Just needed something for driving so I got a Crown and I love it but I definitely don't want to be buying coil heads forever. Have two Billow V2s but got fed up with the bottom decks getting stuck on me every time I wanted to refill on both. Thought this Crius (especially with the Velocity deck) was the answer but the dry hits are obviously pissing me off.


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