started using my reo again.....

[dman87]

hey all

so I've stopped using my reo for a few months and got into cloud chasing with other mods and just love it.the amount of vapor and flavour is insane when your building coils under .3ohms. but i hate carrying around a juice bottle with me and dripping after a few hits. so i decided to clean up my reo gave it a nice bath and deoxit gold all the contacts. so now my problem is i can't get it to hit the way i would like to. the amount of vapor is just not there. i know it has something to do with different rdas and being able to get huge amount of vapor. so i built new coils on my odin and i have tried the same battery and same atty in a tube mech mod and it hits real nice but when i put it in the reo its just not working properly..... right now on my odin is a dual 28g coil coming out to .4ohms and I'm barely getting any vapor compared to it being on the tube mod. or I'm just too use to blowing huge clouds from my other mods and atty........
wondering if i should just wait for the new reo p67 or send my grand in to get upgraded

so my question to all you reonauts out there is
1. am i missing anything to improve conductivity ??other than to clean the contacts and deoxit it, to make it hit better and harder??
2. is it possible to cloud chase with a reo????
3. if i upgrade to the newer 510 connection and heavy duty contact would that help my case???

thanks all in advance! i know someone in reoville can answer my questions

 

[dbrandt01]

That's the problem with high watts and cloud chasing

I wouldn't call a Reo cloud chasing, but you can get a good amount of vapor. I vape mine at about 0.45 ohms. Yeah it doesn't hit as hard as a cloud chasing setup, but it's still a good vape. I'm at dual 26g for my build in an Odin. A problem with yours I see, lets say 28g, dual coil, I'm using 2.5mm diameter in my example. That's 0.4 ohms but only 4 wraps per coil. Surface area is minimal of that. I use 26g, dual coil, 2.5 mm diameter at 0.45 ohms. I'm at 7 wraps and that's a bit better for surface area.

I personally just wash mine and still use the noalox and mine seems fine. As far as question 3, I don't know. I still have the old 510 and sub ohm contacts.

I'm using 80vg/20pg unflavored.

 

[Papa_Lazarou]

Hey dman, good to see you again.

A few thoughts for ya....

You say you're using the same RDA on a tube mech with better results, so let's ignore the question of power as there's no regulation involved.

Cleaning is a must. Deoxit is for the newer contacts, which I assume you have, and a must as well. The new adjustable 510 might get you better (less) voltage drop, but prolly not appreciably so.

Sooo... if you've cleaned it and applied deoxit, you might have loose contacts - a wobbly firing pin and/or spring issues. You might want to remove the spring, clean the bottom of it, the mounting screw and the screw threads in the base of the body. A little noalox on the screw and on the base of the spring wouldn't hurt. Depending on the finish of the reo, some folks even scrape the finish off body where the spring contacts it.

You should also inspect the firing pin for signs of pitting, wear, or gunk, particularly where it contacts the battery. Maybe check to make sure the atty is seating fully on the 510, too.

That's all in the service of closing the gap between what you're getting with the tube versus the reo.

In terms of maximizing the cloudage with the reo (and in general), there are better atties for that sort of thing than the Odin. Kennedy's, Dark Horses, and Velocity's will all outperform it.

 

[JC Okie]

hey all

so I've stopped using my reo for a few months and got into cloud chasing with other mods and just love it.the amount of vapor and flavour is insane when your building coils under .3ohms. but i hate carrying around a juice bottle with me and dripping after a few hits. so i decided to clean up my reo gave it a nice bath and deoxit gold all the contacts. so now my problem is i can't get it to hit the way i would like to. the amount of vapor is just not there. i know it has something to do with different rdas and being able to get huge amount of vapor. so i built new coils on my odin and i have tried the same battery and same atty in a tube mech mod and it hits real nice but when i put it in the reo its just not working properly..... right now on my odin is a dual 28g coil coming out to .4ohms and I'm barely getting any vapor compared to it being on the tube mod. or I'm just too use to blowing huge clouds from my other mods and atty........
wondering if i should just wait for the new reo p67 or send my grand in to get upgraded

so my question to all you reonauts out there is
1. am i missing anything to improve conductivity ??other than to clean the contacts and deoxit it, to make it hit better and harder??
2. is it possible to cloud chase with a reo????
3. if i upgrade to the newer 510 connection and heavy duty contact would that help my case???

thanks all in advance! i know someone in reoville can answer my questions

@dman87, you ask if you upgrade to the newer 510 connection and heavy duty contact, would that help. That leads me to believe you have the old stock contact and spring. Do you have the new gold coated contact and gold spring? If not, upgrading those would help immensely....more than the new 510, even. It's referred to as the "sub-ohm" kit (you can buy it from Reosmods and install it yourself) and it is something you need. At the least. The new 510 is nice, too, but the upgraded contacts will help the most.

 

[Dougiestyle]

I've noticed that the screw that fastens the neg spring can be a weak point in conductivity. Aluminum oxidizes, and even with a hot bath, if there's oxidation between the body and that spring/screw, then you're getting V-drop. Once a week or so I back the screw out a half turn and re-torque. Be sure not to strip the threads, but get it tight. May not hurt to add some deoxit on the aluminum screw hole and screw threads.

Sometimes the coil screws will back themselves out due to heat expansion, too. Make sure your coil screws are tight on your RDA, also.

 

[Robinowitz]

I've noticed that the screw that fastens the neg spring can be a weak point in conductivity. Aluminum oxidizes, and even with a hot bath, if there's oxidation between the body and that spring/screw, then you're getting V-drop. Once a week or so I back the screw out a half turn and re-torque. Be sure not to strip the threads, but get it tight. May not hurt to add some deoxit on the aluminum screw hole and screw threads.

Sometimes the coil screws will back themselves out due to heat expansion, too. Make sure your coil screws are tight on your RDA, also.

Great point about the screw that fastens the negative spring. On one of my Grands, I'm unable to remove screw without stripping. Any tricks?

Welcome back DMan! Looks like you've been given lots of good stuff to ponder

 

[Dougiestyle]

On one of my Grands, I'm unable to remove screw without stripping. Any tricks?

Screws and stripping and tricks. Geez it's getting risque in here!

Time to invest in a new bottom spring and ask Mr Rob to include a screw. $5 for peace of mind.

 

[Papa_Lazarou]

Great point about the screw that fastens the negative spring. On one of my Grands, I'm unable to remove screw without stripping. Any tricks?

Welcome back DMan! Looks like you've been given lots of good stuff to ponder

By "stripping" do you mean the head of the screw? Hopefully, yes, and if so you could...

* rotate the spring counterclockwise before attempting to apply a screwdriver - this will loosen the screw some. If you intend to replace the spring with a new one, you can even use pliers to muscle it around to loosen the screw. If not, use a flat head screwdriver to wiggle it, making sure not to distort the spring.

* go to a hardware store and get a stripped screw remover (basically, a screwdriver that has a bit that bites into the stripped screw head for grip).

Either way, you'll prolly need a new screw.

If the threads of the screw are stripped, you've got bigger (potential) problems. The screw, you don't care so much about (you'll need a new one) - it's the threading on the body in the hole that you do not want damaged. If they are, you're looking at either using a tap to rethread the body (hopefully allowing for the same size screw to fit) or sending it in to Rob for some TLC.

Hope some of that helps.

 

[SteamStack]

Yeah my advice is to check the contacts.. if there not the new gold contacts your best bet is to send it in for all new contacts (gold fire pin and gold spring).

No doubt the fire pin is prob pitted.. need t I keep noalox on it all the time which is a pain and messy. Going super low ohms under .7 ohms is gona arch which will create more pitting. The new gold contacts along with deoxit gold is where ya want to be.

Also the spring screw.. if it's never been removed and cleaned (screw, screw hole on body and spring threads) thrn no doubt that's limiting your fire power as well.

Also if you send it in for new contacts, think about getting rhe new ss adjustable 510 as well.. also ask Rob for a new soldered spring.

Rob mention a little while ago if people wanted soldered springs as it will lessen the volt drop even more over the crimped style. I'm sure he could install one on the mod.

After all that said.. might as well think about just a new reo. Email/call rob so he can include a soldered spring for ya on the new order.

 

[dman87]

thanks for all the replies. i do have the new contacts just not the heavy duty one. and i didn't take the spring out when i gave it a bath but i took it out now and added some noalox under the spring and it seems to help a bit. maybe.....not sure tho might just be a mental thing. but i still love my reo even tho it can't chuck clouds the way i want it to but it is for sure the best mod i have. the simplicity of it and no carrying around juice bottle is great.

 

[Robinowitz]

By "stripping" do you mean the head of the screw? Hopefully, yes, and if so you could...

* rotate the spring counterclockwise before attempting to apply a screwdriver - this will loosen the screw some. If you intend to replace the spring with a new one, you can even use pliers to muscle it around to loosen the screw. If not, use a flat head screwdriver to wiggle it, making sure not to distort the spring.

* go to a hardware store and get a stripped screw remover (basically, a screwdriver that has a bit that bites into the stripped screw head for grip).

Either way, you'll prolly need a new screw.

If the threads of the screw are stripped, you've got bigger (potential) problems. The screw, you don't care so much about (you'll need a new one) - it's the threading on the body in the hole that you do not want damaged. If they are, you're looking at either using a tap to rethread the body (hopefully allowing for the same size screw to fit) or sending it in to Rob for some TLC.

Hope some of that helps.

I swear I'm not trying to high jack the thread here DMan..just didn't want to not reply to Papa's helpful words. The screw for the spring is so snug that when I have tried to unscrew it, it wouldn't budge. I just let it be rather than stripping it. One of those "rainy day kind of things."

Now back to the regularly scheduled program for DMan.

 

[K31Scout]

Robin, try putting it in the freezer for a while then use a lighter on the screw head until it's hot. The heating and cooling combo breaks the bond that causes the screw to stick. Make sure you use a proper sized phillips screw driver and don't let it slip while turning. Or just leave it alone.

 

[ElConquistador]

My spring screw was a bear to loosen, but I finally got it. Use the right size screwdriver!!

 

[Rule62]

Can't stress enough the importance of using the correct size Phillips screwdriver. Too large or too small, and you'll ruin the slots. Also, a screwdriver with a larger diameter handle will give you more leverage. I couldn't loosen any of mine either, with one of those little mini screwdrivers. The spring screw, when it comes out of Rob's shop, is pretty tight. Once you get it loose the first time, you likely won't ever have the problem again.
Some people remove the screw, and sand the paint or anodizing off the area under the spring base, to provide better electrical contact. I don't know if it matters or not. I have a couple that I've done that to; and a couple that I haven't. But as part of my maintenance routine, I remove the screw, and either Noalox or Deoxit the hole in the bottom of the Reo, because the bare metal in the hole will oxidize.