GP Series by VapourArt - Official Thread for GP Spheroid, GP PAPS, X, GP Piccolo, GP SnP and more - Part 3

[qorax]

@cliffy15 - this talk about the large air hole is exactly the same kind of gyrations I went through with my Squape and the deck has 4 smallish juice holes. I'm with you through thick and thin as I also prefer a somewhat tight draw so it drove me crazy until I wicked as per my post. /hint Your not vaping motor oil are you? /joke I assume it's 50/50 with a medium viscosity and not a gunker. Please put the bloody "cap/topper" on with the juice slots and go!

P...that's a very very nice gesture and much appreciated. And where is "Q" our resident guru with a "Cliff Build Vid" /lol /joke

Good luck!

This weekend

 

[cliffy15]

hmm. I fully intended to recreate my test with a fully open afc. I was unable to do so, however, because I just can not tolerate the same number/length of draw while taking lung hits (coughing. more rest time needed). additionally, mouth to lung hits were ineffective with such an open draw

The best I was able to do was vaping the Heron v2 during the evening with the afc as open as I could tolerate (appx 2/3) open. Results seen to indicate that liquid build up on the deck was slightly reduced but still eventually led to leaking from the afc.

I'll still play around with some alternate fluffed builds (and eventually see if the new topcap makes any difference) but as of now I guess I'll just have to resort to blowing out built up fluid into a napkin/tissue on a regular basis.

This newb is just going to have to wait for Q's tutorial! ;-)

edit: now that I'm expecting to have some leaks, I'm trying something small to minimize it. here's what I'm currently trying: I stuffed a small piece of cotton in between the posts and coil (sol the way down to the deck) hoping that it might discourage the liquid from pooling around the posts and running directly into the air hole.

 

[yankeebobo]

I’ll be curious to see what happens on a build recommendation for you since you’ve tried a few.

But in a slightly related angle: I know you are fluff fan as I am too. Have you gone fluffless with the cap? If so does that leak as well? Just wondering. It almost sounds like Perseas new cap may be the solution.

 

[cliffy15]

I’ll be curious to see what happens on a build recommendation for you since you’ve tried a few.

But in a slightly related angle: I know you are fluff fan as I am too. Have you gone fluffless with the cap? If so does that leak as well? Just wondering. It almost sounds like Perseas new cap may be the solution.

I've only tinkered with the fluffless build a few times but I don't feel like I'm missing out on anything really. The main reason for this is because I don't want to fiddle with tank when it comes to air travel.

All of my carry bottles have thin tips and pouring the liquid in the tank didn't really offer me much benefit. While the increased tank capacity is nice, I prefer the flavor and liquid efficiency (is that the right word?) of the fluffed build. Besides, I always forget that I need to invert the tank before removing for refill and dump juice all over me

If I haven't mentioned it before, I absolutely LOVE the Teflon drip tip. [edit:] and as soon as I get my build finalized I can put together a gp order of all the spare parts I need. You wouldn't believe how much fluff I've gone through since I started this investigative process.

edit: I don't think I answered the main question, but yes, my fluffless build leaked as well. However, I didn't spend much time diagnosing my buildbefore I switched so the leaking could well be attributed to any part of my build.

 

[cliffy15]

I hope I'm not jumping the gun, here, since some of my "build improvements" seem to work initially and fail before the tank is complete ... but I've gone through two tanks with this build, and it seems to work quite nicely.

The small piece of cotton, between the coil and the posts, seems to change the properties of the coil. This looks to have turned part of the coil's vaporizing surface into additional wicking surface; thus, reducing the amount of unvaped liquid (exacerbated by low airflow or the tight draw) that was being produced and that would eventually pool around on the deck/posts and leak out of the AFC.

Yes, I get a little less vapor production but now that can be managed by the wattage consumed by my coil, I think. woot!

edit: hmm.... don't know what to make of this. hard to get this lit up correctly (lots of shadows) but look at my fluff. The right of this picture shows all kinds of dark deposits that obviously came from the coil. The rest is almost white since it's just about empty. Also, the wick is quite dark like it's a very old wick that needs to be changed. Some of that gunky residue is sitting on the inside of the chamber. Obviously, by doing this icing have also changed the direction that the vapor is going... not sure, now, if this is actually an improvement.

Nothing has changed in this build except for the bit of cotton stuck between the posts and coil.

This wick is only a bit over a day old. And that bit of cotton has been in there for 12 hours.

Notice that the deck is relatively dry, though...

 

[cliffy15]

Sorry, for all the update spam but figured I should follow up. I'll try to refrain from more spam unless I find something especially significant.

So, my last post started that a small piece of extra cotton changed the coil/performance in both good and bad ways.

The good: eliminated the leaks due to too much liquid build up on the deck.good performance and still excellent flavor.

The bad: seems like the cotton directed the vapor up and into my fluff; turning it dark. The dark build up had no place to go and stayed in the wick: making it taste a little burnt after less than a full day of vaping.

Since then, I've slightly changed the build with significant changes in performance.

New build with long cotton tail so dark build-up has somewhere away from the coil to go to.

Small cotton piece put on TOP of the coil. Notice that the wick end of the piece is about even with the coil while the tail end if it overlaps with the tail end of the wick. Hopefully this wicks any dark build-up away from the coil and keeps it out of my fluff. The small cotton piece and wick nearest the coil have been primed with liquid.

A day and half later, here's what it looks like:

The tail and the small cotton piece is wicking away residue even better than anticipated (see how light-colored the wicking end and the cotton piece are).

Performance is still awesome. I have the afc open halfway now since the extra cotton is reducing the size of the chamber as well as tightening the draw.

I did have one major leak of very dark fluid. I attributed it to 30 minutes of rapid chain vaping. I don't think the chamber cotton could keep up with the build-up of liquid. blew everything out of the afc and things are still functioning.

Now, I'm just waiting to see how long this wick lasts. If I can get two full days out of it that will be fine with me.

edit: fwiw, this wick has lasted me two days and is still going. I think this is the build I'm sticking with for awhile

 

[Rastaban]

Hi All

I have a Spheroid v4 which I am very happy with. I was thinking about getting a Heron v2 but I have some questions that maybe someone with a Heron v2 can answer.

Is the airflow bigger or the same as the Spheroid v4?
Does the Heron v2 wick 70vg liquid well with no filler? I have some issues with 70vg in the spheroid I use 50 50 with no issues but still it would be good to know.

Maybe a more specific question for Vapourart - Does the new topper for the Heron v2 wick 70vg well with no filler?

Cheers
//Will

 

[MsLoud]

@yankeebobo your inbox is full sir
Would like a chat with you please

 

[yankeebobo]

@yankeebobo your inbox is full sir
Would like a chat with you please

Cleared

 

[SeniorBoy]

I'm still confused on an issue with respect to the Heron V2 which I plan to order. See this pic:

Is that what you guys call fluff and why is it their? Is it necessary? Sorry to ask this but I'm still confused and would appreciate some help.

 

[cliffy15]

Yes, this is fluff. The fluff is there to hold/suspend the liquid. The cotton wicks liquid from the fluff by contact.

If you order the Heron v2 it comes with a small amount of fluff.

The main advantage of the fluff is that it doesn't get affected by air pressure changes as a tank build would.

You can also remove the tank without inverting it first.

 

[perseas]

Hi All

I have a Spheroid v4 which I am very happy with. I was thinking about getting a Heron v2 but I have some questions that maybe someone with a Heron v2 can answer.

Is the airflow bigger or the same as the Spheroid v4?
Does the Heron v2 wick 70vg liquid well with no filler? I have some issues with 70vg in the spheroid I use 50 50 with no issues but still it would be good to know.

Maybe a more specific question for Vapourart - Does the new topper for the Heron v2 wick 70vg well with no filler?

Cheers
//Will

Hello Will,

Heron works very well even with 100% VG with or without filler. The airflow is bigger from the Spheroid v4. If you have issues in your build, reduce the thickness of the cotton and it will be fine.

 

[Rastaban]

Hello Will,

Heron works very well even with 100% VG with or without filler. The airflow is bigger from the Spheroid v4. If you have issues in your build, reduce the thickness of the cotton and it will be fine.

Thanks Perseas. I'll try and use less cotton on the Spheroid v4 for the thicker juice. Also good to know about the Heron. I've got my eye on that one.

Do you know if Stainless Steel builds are possible on the Spheroid or the Heron? Have you tested that?

Cheers
Will

 

[perseas]

Thanks Perseas. I'll try and use less cotton on the Spheroid v4 for the thicker juice. Also good to know about the Heron. I've got my eye on that one.

Do you know if Stainless Steel builds are possible on the Spheroid or the Heron? Have you tested that?

Cheers
Will

You're welcome. I haven't tested with SS yet, only with Ni200 and Kanthal, but I don't find a good reason for SS builds not to work well on both of them.

 

[Rastaban]

You're welcome. I haven't tested with SS yet, only with Ni200 and Kanthal, but I don't find a good reason for SS builds not to work well on both of them.

Hi Perseas. Thanks for your reply. I got some 316L 26 gauge Stainless Steel to test it out on the Spheroid v4. I'm using the Cuboid mod. The ohms came out at 0.43 (not sure that that really matters?). I can say that it is really good, I haven't had good experience with TC before but this seems to be working well. I will have to experiment with the temperature and watt settings but I am definitely impressed so far. //Will

 

[perseas]

Hi Perseas. Thanks for your reply. I got some 316L 26 gauge Stainless Steel to test it out on the Spheroid v4. I'm using the Cuboid mod. The ohms came out at 0.43 (not sure that that really matters?). I can say that it is really good, I haven't had good experience with TC before but this seems to be working well. I will have to experiment with the temperature and watt settings but I am definitely impressed so far. //Will

Thank you for sharing your experience with SS builds.

 

[yankeebobo]

I don’t get vape mail much anymore. But I did jump on this. I’ll be taking it for a test drive tomorrow.

 

[yankeebobo]

Oh. And note the 3 inch USB cable. Thats keeping power REALLY close. Just sayin

 

[cliffy15]

okay, I'll bite...what IS that?

 

[yankeebobo]

Coil master 521. I have the coil master for ohm reading . This uses an 18650 rechargeable batery and adds features. One of which is test firing right on the unit. The leads also can be used on something like say..... The native gpin connection of heron or spheroid if you don’t have a 510.
I’ll be testing a few different attys tomorrow to see how accurate it is.