I haven't found anything that's a direct fit... BUT... The honest truth is, the bore of the chimney is just BARELY larger than a standard 510... I think it measures like 5.8mm or something like that? So to be completely honest, if you don't like the included tip you really aren't sacrificing anything by using the adapter.
Geekvape Griffin RTA!
- Thread starter mtbason35
- Start date
- th_trl_thread_readers 0
- Status
I haven't found anything that's a direct fit... BUT... The honest truth is, the bore of the chimney is just BARELY larger than a standard 510... I think it measures like 5.8mm or something like that? So to be completely honest, if you don't like the included tip you really aren't sacrificing anything by using the adapter.
I was going to comment that was the only complaint I had was the included drip tip. I'd like one that's a little longer and a bit narrower inside diameter. I guess I could just go ahead and put the 510 adapter in and another tip, but what's the fun in that?
I've got a nice carbon fibre wide bore 510 drip tip, but the 510 adapter narrows the bore and alters the flavour to my mind. So the carbon fibre sits on my billow (hated the metal/delrin one) and the too short delrim remains on the Griffin.
I changed the DT on mine as well. The bore was OK, but just a tad to short for my liking, another 2-3mm would have been good. I'm using a cheap hybrid from FT, bottom half is SS and top half is glass and decent bore size. The one I'm using now is about the same size as the Crius DT, which I really like.
Yeah I know. But I really like the size of the included DT. I just really don't care for how short it is
I felt the same way, the wide bore was fine, it was just a little too short.
I've been using mine for a little over a week and I love it. No leaks, no problems. I finally got the hang of where to grab it when I want to close AF, JF, fill it up or remove it from the mod. I agree the DT is a little short but I don't think it bothers me. Next test, build is vertically. Should I follow DJLS vapes tutorial? or how does the horseshoe work?
Day 2 and I'm thoroughly impressed. Wicking with cotton is a no brainer. So what's the trick with using rayon? Every time I do, it's flood city. I don't want to put to much in the juice channels and risk a lot of dry hits. So someone please enlighten me.
Sent from my VS986 using Tapatalk
Sent from my VS986 using Tapatalk
I wick snug in the coil then thin about 1/4-1/2 of the tails and lightly tuck in the channels.
i did a spaced 10/11 wrap 24g ss using rx200 at 42.5W finally wicked it right, used a piece of 24g wire to put the cotton in and its kinda wicking but it does produce less vapor as time goes on, thats using the SS mode with the 3.00 update at 370F, the milkman juice which is 99%VG
I'm thinking of picking one of these up along with a RX200 soon, I can't wait! I just refined my clapton skills enough to the point that I'm happy with how the coils are coming out and the flavor is like I'm vaping for the first time again. I'm quite glad I decided to give it another shot. I love the Velocity style deck with those post holes so I'm thinking this one is gonna be a winner in my book for sure!
I've never worked with SS wire before but I would assume it can be done, never looked into it. I've made nickel claptons but I only had 28 gauge so it didn't perform very well on my DNA40 and it was a serious ..... to make LOL.
Thank you for the tipI wick snug in the coil then thin about 1/4-1/2 of the tails and lightly tuck in the channels.
Sent from my VS986 using Tapatalk
I used to use rayon exclusively but have went back to my roots the past year or so using cotton. The key with rayon is that it must be tight. Use way way more than you think you need. Cotton swells when wet, but rayon actually shrinks. Rayon also tends to continue to shrink as it's used. That's one of the reasons I stopped using it, in tanks that were very picky I'd often find after a couple days they would start to leak. Don't worry any getting too much. Rayon tends to wick a little more efficiently than cotton, and I've jammed so much cotton in this thing at times I thought there would be no way it would ever wick, but it still kept up with chain vaping no problem.
I have just got myself a Griffin and instantly I have been more impressed with this over any other tank I have purchased.
I am running a dual Clapton .19 build with organic cotton wicks just tucked in the ring and it wicks like a dream at 70 watts. For the money I don't think you can go wrong with this tank.
I am running a dual Clapton .19 build with organic cotton wicks just tucked in the ring and it wicks like a dream at 70 watts. For the money I don't think you can go wrong with this tank.
Vaping is so smooth on this tank
Flavor is rich and dense
Does anyone have issue dismantling to rewick/recoil
Probably the main reason I still love the crius and billow as well, is the ease of removing the bottom section to leave juice intact to rewick/recoil
Even the Billow 2 with its requirement to remove the bottom to refill seems smoother, and they are similar in taste and draw - especially if you remove the inner cap from the billow
Flavor is rich and dense
Does anyone have issue dismantling to rewick/recoil
Probably the main reason I still love the crius and billow as well, is the ease of removing the bottom section to leave juice intact to rewick/recoil
Even the Billow 2 with its requirement to remove the bottom to refill seems smoother, and they are similar in taste and draw - especially if you remove the inner cap from the billow
My Billow v2 has top notch machining, so yes, it is easy to remove. I tend to have issues removing the Crius and Griffin build decks due to all the moving parts, lol! The jc, the afc. It can be annoying.
I've had this for 2 weeks now and I love it. but.... First problem was with the grub screws. They actually broke a pre-made set of clapton's that my vape shop installed when I bought it. No real biggie I made a dual parallel build for it, but here is where the big problem I ran into comes into play. I can't get the juice to flow like it used to. The only way I can get air bubbles to come out of the juice flow holes is to take the top cap off. Ive tried re-wicking it twice (once to top of the ring like every reviewer says and once to the bottom of the juice channel, never stuffing it) but I still have the problem. Did I reassemble it wrong?
- Status
