I was needing another ohm meter!! Like the additional features. Thanks Yankee...just ordered!!
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GP Series by VapourArt - Official Thread for GP Spheroid, GP PAPS, X, GP Piccolo, GP SnP and more - Part 3
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On my spheroid the positive assembly all but falls out vs the heron it's extremely difficult / must be lubricated to get in and requires pushing out with a screwdriver. Time for an o ring change on the spheroid disc ?
Edit again. Changed the o ring to no avail. The problem here is if I want to build without a battery in the piccoloid it's impossible. The minute I apply the lightest tap to the positive screw it falls out. What can I do To Make it sturdy like the HnP ? Is this all Spheroids or is something wrong potentially? It's been that way since bought it. I just hadn't mentioned it yet.
Here is what's in one spares bag for the piccoloid. The part that came With the spheroid. I'm honestly at a bit of a loss as to where a couple of these o Rings go tbh. Maybe for the 510 screw I don't have.
Should be grouped by like sizes. Seems I have five that fit the disc and probably other parts. No idea where he thick brown one goes. Or the two small thick black Ones.
Here's what I'm talking about. Regarding the easy falling out. It's nice to build with no battery in for extra safety and because I rarely loco the piccoloid as it doesn't pocket fire. But I can't.
None of my O-rings seem thicker than the others
The other problem with the disc being tangibly smaller is the way it can wind up sitting inside the stainless base. It can be super tilted which makes assembling the gpin a huge pain. Please note the gpin is on correctly and level. The whole assembly with the black disc is tilted.
Can someone confirm the thickness of the o ring which is placed around the black disk? Mine are around 1mm (inexpensive caliper). I'm guessing that's right and I need to Order a new black disc to resolve the issues. Seems strange that would be off from wear, was there ever a run that wound up being a hair to small @perseus ? Or are they all like this and you tightened the combination for the heron? I don't like building on mech mods with batteries in them. Feel like it's tempting fate.
Edit again. Changed the o ring to no avail. The problem here is if I want to build without a battery in the piccoloid it's impossible. The minute I apply the lightest tap to the positive screw it falls out. What can I do To Make it sturdy like the HnP ? Is this all Spheroids or is something wrong potentially? It's been that way since bought it. I just hadn't mentioned it yet.
Here is what's in one spares bag for the piccoloid. The part that came With the spheroid. I'm honestly at a bit of a loss as to where a couple of these o Rings go tbh. Maybe for the 510 screw I don't have.
Should be grouped by like sizes. Seems I have five that fit the disc and probably other parts. No idea where he thick brown one goes. Or the two small thick black Ones.
Here's what I'm talking about. Regarding the easy falling out. It's nice to build with no battery in for extra safety and because I rarely loco the piccoloid as it doesn't pocket fire. But I can't.
None of my O-rings seem thicker than the others
The other problem with the disc being tangibly smaller is the way it can wind up sitting inside the stainless base. It can be super tilted which makes assembling the gpin a huge pain. Please note the gpin is on correctly and level. The whole assembly with the black disc is tilted.
Can someone confirm the thickness of the o ring which is placed around the black disk? Mine are around 1mm (inexpensive caliper). I'm guessing that's right and I need to Order a new black disc to resolve the issues. Seems strange that would be off from wear, was there ever a run that wound up being a hair to small @perseus ? Or are they all like this and you tightened the combination for the heron? I don't like building on mech mods with batteries in them. Feel like it's tempting fate.
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During a build, Spheroid v4 and Heron v2 in hybrid form need to have a battery inside to push the post and the locking ring turned clockwise and that's it. There is no safety concern here.
Regarding the exact dimensions of the O-rings, I will tell you on the morning, it is late here now and I haven't access to my office. However, there is nothing wrong with them, please follow the instruction of the GP Piccoloid reference video when you assemble the Piccoloid v2. The same applies to GP UnP.
Regarding the exact dimensions of the O-rings, I will tell you on the morning, it is late here now and I haven't access to my office. However, there is nothing wrong with them, please follow the instruction of the GP Piccoloid reference video when you assemble the Piccoloid v2. The same applies to GP UnP.
Ok. Thank you. You shouldn't respond when it's so late!! I was really just curious because the HnP in hybrid isn't like that. It's not an issue to keep a battery in and lock it. Just curious.
No worries, I am a late bird, thank you though! It's a design decision. In order to have the maximum conductivity, we reduced the contacting parts to the minimum number, offering a very quick assembling at the same time. The con is that you cannot change mode from GPin to 510 without making a new build. All things are about compromises, we cannot have it all 
The tolerances of these atties are very tight. They need to be assembled like a clock, in the right order. The Viton O-rings cannot be deformed so easily, except if they have been put in caustic liquids (99% of the e-liquids cannot affect them) or inside an ultrasonic cleaner. A bit of tilt is acceptable as long the plastic insulator seals the opening and the post has been inserted correctly. The 2 posts are not equal, one is a tad shorter. We left them that way to avoid making new posts for Spheroid and new for Heron, complicating the whole issue. What I see on the photo, tells me that something went wrong during the assembling.
The tolerances of these atties are very tight. They need to be assembled like a clock, in the right order. The Viton O-rings cannot be deformed so easily, except if they have been put in caustic liquids (99% of the e-liquids cannot affect them) or inside an ultrasonic cleaner. A bit of tilt is acceptable as long the plastic insulator seals the opening and the post has been inserted correctly. The 2 posts are not equal, one is a tad shorter. We left them that way to avoid making new posts for Spheroid and new for Heron, complicating the whole issue. What I see on the photo, tells me that something went wrong during the assembling.
Has anyone received their updated chimney cap yet? If so I'm hoping mine didn't get lost somewhere in the office mall somewhere. There are two of us in the office with the same name and I'll go track him down if I think he's got my package.
Received the cap just today. I'm in Europe so yours is probably still on its way.
Will not need mine though.. I do build my Heron v2 with fluff but do not experience the problems you reported. My builds are however very similar to one of the builds on your photos (short tails and no additional cotton on the deck), but with somewhat different fluff dimensions (8.5x2.0cm) and 90% VG juice. I've only experienced some leakage right after overfilling (i.e. user error), but only use the Heron at home so never have it bouncing around in my pocket like you.. maybe that's the difference.
Good luck, curious to see if the new cap solves your problem!
Will not need mine though.. I do build my Heron v2 with fluff but do not experience the problems you reported. My builds are however very similar to one of the builds on your photos (short tails and no additional cotton on the deck), but with somewhat different fluff dimensions (8.5x2.0cm) and 90% VG juice. I've only experienced some leakage right after overfilling (i.e. user error), but only use the Heron at home so never have it bouncing around in my pocket like you.. maybe that's the difference.
Good luck, curious to see if the new cap solves your problem!
Nice! I was worried that someone else got my package and didn't know what to do with it.
My problems seem to be mostly resolved - it's surprising what a little bit of cotton in the right place Will do. I get the occasional leak but it's not too bad. I think the topper will let me try a couple of new things
I think part of the issue is the thinness of my DIY liquid. I was vaping 30/70 pg/vg at one point but switched to 50/50 about a year or so back. maybe I'll have a go at higher vg done time soon.
For what it's worth, I use 70pg/30vg almost exclusively and do not have any leaking issue with the Heron v2 or the Spheroid v4, with or without fluff.
well, I guess that confirms it... The only person I can blame is myself. my build works pretty well for me right now unless I chain vape for an extended period of time but I'm still happy.
When it arrives to you, try a loop build with the new topper. Hold the 2 cotton tails together and insert them through the topper's hole, it works fine!
When I do a build for Heron or Spheroid, I always insert the cotton twisted, holding both ends, pulling the left tail and continue twisting the right one at the same time, so it will be difficult to move it afterwards without twisting, it remains tight in place without being too dense and diminish the wicking. How much twist you do, depends on the coil, and the sense you get that if you overdo it, the wicking will stop after a while. It is a very easy process, and it can be corrected in a minute with a second attempt.
When I do a build for Heron or Spheroid, I always insert the cotton twisted, holding both ends, pulling the left tail and continue twisting the right one at the same time, so it will be difficult to move it afterwards without twisting, it remains tight in place without being too dense and diminish the wicking. How much twist you do, depends on the coil, and the sense you get that if you overdo it, the wicking will stop after a while. It is a very easy process, and it can be corrected in a minute with a second attempt.
Thanks for the tip! I've been rolling my cotton with my fingers to compress slightly but haven't tried that method yet. I'll try on my next rewick although my last test hasn't indicated over-wicking
When I try with the topper I'll try it with the wick tails through hole. Maybe I've been doing it wrong all this time but in my Heron v1, the looped end always went through the topper's hole.
Thanks for the tip! I've been rolling my cotton with my fingers to compress slightly but haven't tried that method yet. I'll try on my next rewick although my last test hasn't indicated over-wicking
When I try with the topper I'll try it with the wick tails through hole. Maybe I've been doing it wrong all this time but in my Heron v1, the looped end always went through the topper's hole.
Thanks for the tip! I've been rolling my cotton with my fingers to compress slightly but haven't tried that method yet. I'll try on my next rewick although my last test hasn't indicated over-wicking
When I try with the topper I'll try it with the wick tails through hole. Maybe I've been doing it wrong all this time but in my Heron v1, the looped end always went through the topper's hole.
It is just a matter of preference, whatever works best for you, I posted what is good for me
Prototype clear tank for GP Heron 2.0 made from ULTEM - a thermoplastic resin that offers outstanding elevated thermal resistance, high strength and stiffness, and broad chemical resistance, frequently used in medical instruments. The first limited batch will be available on the coming Vapourday.
O.M.G.Prototype clear tank for GP Heron 2.0 made from ULTEM - a thermoplastic resin that offers outstanding elevated thermal resistance, high strength and stiffness, and broad chemical resistance, frequently used in medical instruments. The first limited batch will be available on the coming Vapourday.
I Want One... like right NOW
This is still a prototype, we have to correct the placement of the Heron's engine, thank you Captain!
Once it is finalized that is a definite need, love having the steel tanks as a long lasting back up, but nice to see inside. Any chance for the same with the spheroid v4?
We are working on it, we'll know later, if it can be done. We import the ULTEM from the States and we're waiting for different samples to test it.
If we have enough requests for GP Heron 1.0 & 1.5 ULTEM tanks we'll produce them too. I opened a thread to check the interest. Please post there if you want them. Are you interested in ULTEM tank for GP Heron 1.0 & 1.5 ?
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