Do you have anything you want to are to the conversation?I have spent a good deal of time researching Ni online.
On Temp Control
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I just want to see some support for your statement is all.
My opinion based on the research I have done is that there is no particular issue with dry burning Ni.
I doubt it happens. People are concerned about "nickel carbonyl" but it simply cannot form. Wikipedia says this:
"Nickel carbonyl may be fatal if absorbed through the skin or more likely, inhaled due to its high volatility. Its LC50 for a 30-minute exposure has been estimated at 3 ppm, and the concentration that is immediately fatal to humans would be 30 ppm. Some subjects exposed to puffs up to 5 ppm described the odour as musty or sooty, but because the compound is so exceedingly toxic, its smell provides no reliable warning against a potentially fatal exposure."
Basically, this stuff will kill a human in a 30 ppm dose. It is highly unlikely that nickel carbonyl is being produced in our mods. Not only would a lot of people be sick, but we'd have a lot of dead vapers already. Nickel carbonyl is produced via the "Mond process" which requires carbon monoxide. Since there is no carbon monoxide present, it cannot form.
The reason Evolv set the temp limit to 600F is because that is the max recommended operating temperature of Ni-200. Above that temp, "creep" begins occurring and the wire can form graphite. This is a far cry from "poisonous" nickel carbonyl.
Exactly BigEgo!
Except for the the last paragraph. It is carbon that can leach and I am a carbon based lifeform.
The max allowable carbon content for Ni200 is 0.15%
If you are new to TC and have a mod that can support SS or ti, skip ni200. It is frustrating to work with in gauges sturdy enough to make reasonably sized coils, and it must be spaced.
In regards to spacing, ti and ss don't need to be spaced. My current typical build is 26 awg 316L stainless steel that has been compression-wound to 2-3mm ID (depends on the atty airflow configuration). I don't space my coils and both SS and ti work fine.
I've been building for TC mods almost as long as I have been winding and wicking coils, which is going on a year now.
The two main focus points to achieving a good vape with TC are:
Current flow
Juice flow
Having a stable atty resistance is critical to TC! Your mod works by reading the resistance value of your atty, it will monitor the rise in resistance as it applies power to the coil, then based upon the wire mode it is in, compare the change to the TCR on its chip, and decide from that when it needs to throttle power to keep from overshooting.
So I'll say it again, having stable resistance is critical!
Start at the 510 connection of your mod, soak up any juice that might be in there and clean the positive contact & threads with isopropyl alcohol on a cotton swab.
Make sure the 510 connection on your atty is similarly clean.
When you install coils, make sure the coil legs are trapped at bottom dead center of the post hole, and not pinched at the side of the screw. Make sure either side of the coil leg has not been amputated by the post screw.
Pulse SS until it the coil heats evenly. I do this with ti as well because I get better results with the coils and as long as I don't heat the coil past orange to light straw there won't be any titanium dioxide (which I'm personally not worried about anyhow. I know enough aerospace industry guys that have been welding ti for decades).
With TC, wicking problems will present themselves as an abrupt loss of vapor. The main source of heat loss in your coil will be the phase change from your juice turning into a gas. If your wicks can't keep up, your coil will heat up much faster than it should, as well as retain the heat. This will cause your mod to throttle the wattage to maintain coil temp.
There are a ton of wicking tutorials and styles on the net, so I won't get too heavily into wicking other than these three bullet points:
Pick a wicking style and perfect it before you try another method.
With cotton, for over 35ish watts, I had to have at least 2 mm inner diameter coils for the wick to keep up with the coil heat to avoid the mod from throttling the current hard. 2.3 mm inner diameter was much better.
Do yourself a favor and go get some rayon. It wicks so much better than cotton that it is almost absurd.
In regards to spacing, ti and ss don't need to be spaced. My current typical build is 26 awg 316L stainless steel that has been compression-wound to 2-3mm ID (depends on the atty airflow configuration). I don't space my coils and both SS and ti work fine.
I've been building for TC mods almost as long as I have been winding and wicking coils, which is going on a year now.
The two main focus points to achieving a good vape with TC are:
Current flow
Juice flow
Having a stable atty resistance is critical to TC! Your mod works by reading the resistance value of your atty, it will monitor the rise in resistance as it applies power to the coil, then based upon the wire mode it is in, compare the change to the TCR on its chip, and decide from that when it needs to throttle power to keep from overshooting.
So I'll say it again, having stable resistance is critical!
Start at the 510 connection of your mod, soak up any juice that might be in there and clean the positive contact & threads with isopropyl alcohol on a cotton swab.
Make sure the 510 connection on your atty is similarly clean.
When you install coils, make sure the coil legs are trapped at bottom dead center of the post hole, and not pinched at the side of the screw. Make sure either side of the coil leg has not been amputated by the post screw.
Pulse SS until it the coil heats evenly. I do this with ti as well because I get better results with the coils and as long as I don't heat the coil past orange to light straw there won't be any titanium dioxide (which I'm personally not worried about anyhow. I know enough aerospace industry guys that have been welding ti for decades).
With TC, wicking problems will present themselves as an abrupt loss of vapor. The main source of heat loss in your coil will be the phase change from your juice turning into a gas. If your wicks can't keep up, your coil will heat up much faster than it should, as well as retain the heat. This will cause your mod to throttle the wattage to maintain coil temp.
There are a ton of wicking tutorials and styles on the net, so I won't get too heavily into wicking other than these three bullet points:
Pick a wicking style and perfect it before you try another method.
With cotton, for over 35ish watts, I had to have at least 2 mm inner diameter coils for the wick to keep up with the coil heat to avoid the mod from throttling the current hard. 2.3 mm inner diameter was much better.
Do yourself a favor and go get some rayon. It wicks so much better than cotton that it is almost absurd.
Sorry mate,
i am one of those who build contact coils for tc mods and i would disagree that
having the wires spaced atleast for TItanium and SS ...is a must on tc
problems on tc often occur due to poor 510 connection,
not tight post screws and if the postive post of the atty is forced fit also creates and issue
mostly wicking as well..
and if its a joytech device,must need to tweak to a custom tcr value to get a better vape..
or atleast an accurate one
i am one of those who build contact coils for tc mods and i would disagree that
having the wires spaced atleast for TItanium and SS ...is a must on tc
problems on tc often occur due to poor 510 connection,
not tight post screws and if the postive post of the atty is forced fit also creates and issue
mostly wicking as well..
and if its a joytech device,must need to tweak to a custom tcr value to get a better vape..
or atleast an accurate one
The issue I'm convened with isn't death,, but lower levels that can lower levels of toxicity. I'll be in the chem lab all day tomorrow, but I doubt my advisor wants to do anything that doesn't support his own research, I I'll push for some nickel research though.
So I started watching this thread to help with the confusion & problems I am having with TC but to be honest all y'all have pretty much confused the eff out of me! My big thing is I've been seeing alot of people talking about .3ohm TI & SS coils for temp control! I was under the impression that my RX200 would fire TC coils with a resistance range of .15ohms to .05ohms! I will check the specs again but I'm sure that what it said!
Features and Specs:
Features and Specs:
- Dimensions: 50.0mm x 40.0mmx 84.0mm
- Designed by Jay Bo
- Nickel, Titanium, Stainless Steel Temperature Control Modes/Wattage Mode
- Optimized Heat Dissipation Design
- 510 Spring Loaded Contact Pin
- Magnetic Battery Back Cover
- 0.69 inch OLED Screen
- Resistance Range for TC: 0.05 - 1.0 ohm
- Resistance Range for VW: 0.1 - 3.5 ohm
- Variable Wattage Range: 1.0W - 200.0W
- Temperature Adjustment Range: 100-315°C / 200-600°F
- Requires (3) High Amp 18650 batteries (Sold Separately)
- **All (3) batteries must be the same brand and model. Discharge and recharge the (3) batteries together for maximum efficiency**
- **We recommend an external charger for optimal charging**
- Upgradeable Firmware
- Stealth Function
- Reverse Polarity Battery Protection
What build are you using? What gauge, how many wraps, and what diameter of coil?
Is that not working well? It looks like it's within the resistance parameters of your device
That's actually dual coil. Not really! At 30W+ it goes to TC almost instantly (even at 600f) anything less the vape is way too cold! That's on my RX & my IPV4s both!
so rx right?
might want to try the custom tcr for ni200
(the m1,m2,m3 options)
and set them to 610-620
rx ni mode is a bit finicky since the update...
on the ipv no idea...
haleysdadda, I find #26 Ti wound 6 times on a 3mm jig gives me a consistent .34 to .35Ω build time after time, but as mentioned earlier I wind tightly spaced micro-coils like one would using Kanthal. I take special care to "tune" the coil with my ceramic tweezers to get an evenly spaced and extremely small gap between the loops. (~.005") Most prefer spacing the coil widely but I have found very close winds more consistent. Fits nicely too. Your results may vary, but I get a warm, sweet and flavourful vape needing only 25 watts and 420 degrees using a single coil Subtank Mini and/or a KF4. I typically get 5 to 7 days out of a build and that's darn good, considering the stuff I mix. I do NOT recommend this method with Ni! You'll put yer eye out!
One tip I was given early on was to use a cotton wick and it made all the difference for me. I was also running up against the temp control barrier with zippo vapour, but it was entirely due to poor wicking. Just keep punching away, eventually you will strike gold and never go back to watt-mode again.
One tip I was given early on was to use a cotton wick and it made all the difference for me. I was also running up against the temp control barrier with zippo vapour, but it was entirely due to poor wicking. Just keep punching away, eventually you will strike gold and never go back to watt-mode again.
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Hello all, I ordered my first TC mod the IPV5 and I am waiting for it to ship so I figured I would do some research before it got here. I use rayon and would like to know what a good temp for rayon is in the TC mods? I ordered some NI200 pre made coils and TI wire to start with. I normally vape 28G single coils around 1.0-1.6 ohm range @ ~19watts or so. What would that equate to in the TC world? Thanks in advance.
The temperature setting will control how hot your vape is. The watt/joule setting controls how fast you get to set temperature (ramp up). I usually am between 420-450F (don't care for an overly hot vape myself) and 25-50 watts (depending on coil material and size - more metal takes more power to heat up). The thing you need to remember about TC is once the mod calculates it's at the temperature you set, it will throttle back the power to keep you there.
Cheers,
Steve
Thanks for the info, I kind of have a grasp on how it works but will the same size TC wire be equal to what kanthal is? By that I'm asking if everyone is using the same size TC wire they were when they used kanthal? And what is the "burn temp" of the rayon if anyone knows? Thanks again.
Al
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