Am I missing anything?

[rhm3769]

Bought a Hammond 1590b, a parallel 18650 sled, a 510 connector last week. They're being delivered sometime this coming week. I'm making a mechanical switch, so figured I didn't need a MOSFET.

I just need a connection from the positive of the sled to the center of the 510 connector and a connection from the negative of the sled to the outside of the 510, right? Is it better to have the switch on the negative connection or the positive connection? If its on the positive, I've have to have some kind of insulation on the switch itself to avoid shorting with the case, right?

 

[Izan]

What switch are you planning to use? (home made?)
Are you basing your build on an existing design? If not, WHY NOT?

Be safe
I

 

[rhm3769]

What switch are you planning to use? (home made?)
Are you basing your build on an existing design? If not, WHY NOT?

Be safe
I

Home made switch.... I'm trying to keep it as minimal as possible right now so I can add in in the future....
Chances are, it'll be weeks before I get anything done on it, so I'll have time to plan and plan.... Basing it somewhat on mechs, but the box is too big for a full mechanical box....
Eventually wanting to make my own fully mechanical box.... Been tossing the idea around for awhile, have a set of vtc4s in a cabinet unused since November waiting for this....

 

[dc99]

For a mechanical switch if you switch the ground you don't have to worry about isolating the switch from the box. It really makes no difference which one. The ground is just easier to me. It simply has to make contact with the ground side of the battery sled. It just has to make contact with the box and the ground of the sled when pressed.

 

[Pdizzle]

I'd love to see your switch design idea. I'm debating on getting the FDV one

 

[rhm3769]

For a mechanical switch if you switch the ground you don't have to worry about isolating the switch from the box. It really makes no difference which one. The ground is just easier to me. It simply has to make contact with the ground side of the battery sled. It just has to make contact with the box and the ground of the sled when pressed.

I'd love to see your switch design idea. I'm debating on getting the FDV one

Thanks, that's what I was figuring....

I'm probably just gonna go with a simple nut, bolt and spring switch right now.... Depends on how easy it is to work with aluminum with the simple tools I have.... I'll be posting pictures....

 

[Pdizzle]

Thanks, that's what I was figuring....

I'm probably just gonna go with a simple nut, bolt and spring switch right now.... Depends on how easy it is to work with aluminum with the simple tools I have.... I'll be posting pictures....

Can i ask your plan for making contact between 510 and battery sled?

 

[rhm3769]

Can i ask your plan for making contact between 510 and battery sled?

Plans will be more solid once I have everything in hand and can see the spacing I have, but I'm thinking along the lines of a bolt/spring/nut assembly. Push the bolt, it contacts the negative side of the sled and makes the connection to the aluminum case. I'm sure it's gonna be involved than that, but that's the basis of my concept....

Everything might be delivered today.... Depends on the weather here....

 

[Pdizzle]

I'm thinking for my plan worst case scenario is running a jumper wire from the battery contact to the 510 pin.

 

[rhm3769]

Everything came in today.... For some reason, I imagined the 1590b would be bigger....
I'll start planning everything out....

 

[dc99]

Still pretty good size. Big enough for 3-18650's. Keep us posted on your adventure.

 

[rhm3769]

Still pretty good size. Big enough for 3-18650's. Keep us posted on your adventure.

Small speed bump.... I thought the copper wire I have would be big enough, it turns out it's not labeled and as best as I can tell, its around 20g....

 

[rhm3769]

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Today's bit of work on it.... Sort of manually drilled/cut the hole for the 510.... Made a little scratch for the center, took my old and busted Gerber multi tool and used the knife to make the scratch a dent and then to make the dent a hole and then made the hole bigger....

 

[dc99]

Good start. On that particular battery sled be sure to sand off the little feet on the bottom and you have to either mount it onto a spacer or remove the pos and neg tabs and grind them down or they will short against the box. The 1049,1049P and 1047 have better contacts for what we use them for. You can always use a 3D printed sled. There not really high priced and they are a perfect fit. 18650 Dual Parallel Battery Sled This is my favorite place for parts

 

[rhm3769]

Already been considering a spacer....

Imgur: The most awesome images on the Internet

The wire on the pin doesn't contact the box, it fits between the wire on the sled tabs and the sled itself.... I'll solder that connection once I get the spacer situation fixed.... The switch will take a bit of work, depends on the spacer really....

This is about as far as I'll get today....

 

[Pdizzle]

Interesting wire for that bridge. What is it? Twisted stranded wire?

 

[rhm3769]

Twisted. Didn't have anything in a big enough gauge and it was easier to twist than to run multiple in parallel....

 

[rhm3769]

So I scavenged the garage for some spacers, found some rubber washers, gorilla glued those to the box then glued the sled to the washers.... Broke the multimeter out, center pin to negative battery sled I'm reading 4.2v, center pin to the box, nothing.... Took a piece of wire and made a connection between the negative and the box, I get 4.2v.... Put an Atty on without a build, getting 4.2v.... Tried an Atty with a build, it fires.... So far so good....

Want to test the strength of the glue and how much heat the positive bridge and center connection produce before getting the switch built and installed....

 

[rhm3769]

 

[rhm3769]