Quick question about atty compatibility with the Sage V2

[UCChris]

Hey guys, quick question for you fellow mech heads. I want to pick up a Sage V2 authentic mod since they are on sale for $45 right now. However, I was wondering about atty compatibility with this mech. First, a little backstory.

When I first got into mechs I was really dumb. One day I decided to screw a tank onto my SMPL mod, which happened to have a sticky button. I screwed it all together and pushed the button. It hard shorted (as you would imagine) and the button got stuck. So, as the battery was venting, the mod was still trying to fire because of the stuck button. It exploded a few seconds later sending the button into my stomach, the mod into the wall behind me and basically vaporized the glass of the tank.

Needless to say, I was a bit skittish about mechs for a while. However, once I got my thinking cap back on and decided to do some freaking research, I've come to love mech mods. My favorite setup currently is a SMPL with a Twisted Messes RDA on it. Now that I know how to safely use my stuff, I love mechs.

Anyway, I haven't tried using a tank on any mech mod since. I know that they are a big no-no on atty-to-battery style mods, but I was wondering if a tank (specifically the Smok Mini TFV4) would be safe to use on a mech with a 510 pin (specifically the Sage V2).

Thanks for the help guys.

 

[Bad Ninja]

Yes that mod would be fine with a Smok TFV4 tank, as long as you used coils with resistance that wouldn't excede the battery CDR.
It has a 510 center pin.

Tanks are fine with mechanical mods.
If the mod is a direct to battery device like a SMPL or Able, the tank needs to have an extended positive connection.

I have a Bellus tank on my Able right now.

 

[UCChris]

I'm assuming that CDR stands for continuous drain rate?

I think the problem was that, when I tightened the button down on the SMPL, it pushed the extended 510 up since the 510 was held in with the insulator of the coil.

Anyway, I think I might pick up a Beacon since they are on sale for a screaming $25. Freaking awesome deal.

 

[Bad Ninja]

I'm assuming that CDR stands for continuous drain rate?

I think the problem was that, when I tightened the button down on the SMPL, it pushed the extended 510 up since the 510 was held in with the insulator of the coil.

Anyway, I think I might pick up a Beacon since they are on sale for a screaming $25. Freaking awesome deal.

Yep CDR=continuous drain rate.

Copper beacon is only $30.

 

[mauricem00]

I've been using tanks on my nemesis for 10 month with no problems (EK V2, protankII, subtank, orchid V4) as long as the mod has a center pin it is safe to use on tanks

 

[UCChris]

I'm not a fan of copper just because of the smell that gets all over my hands.

My buddy texted me and he has a Triton that I gave him forever ago when he first got into vaping that he is going to send back my way. I'll pick up the Beacon and give it a go.

If any of you know, would you mind cluing me in on what difference the 510 pin makes? To me, the difference between a batty-to-atty mod and a regular mech is just a little contact pin. How does that protect against a hard short?

Thanks peeps!

 

[Bad Ninja]

I've been using tanks on my nemesis for 10 month with no problems (EK V2, protankII, subtank, orchid V4) as long as the mod has a center pin it is safe to use on tanks

It's not the mod that is the concern, it's the tank.
Only atomizers with protruding positive contacts can be used safely.

I'm not a fan of copper just because of the smell that gets all over my hands.

My buddy texted me and he has a Triton that I gave him forever ago when he first got into vaping that he is going to send back my way. I'll pick up the Beacon and give it a go.

If any of you know, would you mind cluing me in on what difference the 510 pin makes? To me, the difference between a batty-to-atty mod and a regular mech is just a little contact pin. How does that protect against a hard short?

Thanks peeps!

The positive pin on the atty must being enough that it's the only thing touching the top of the battery, otherwise it will short.

This is a good explain action with pics:
Hybrid Mech Mods Info and Safe Usage


Don't take this the wrong way, because it's good you are asking these questions, but please do a bit more research before using a mechancial mod.

 

[mauricem00]

It's not the mod that is the concern, it's the tank.
Only atomizers with protruding positive contacts can be used safely.




The positive pin on the atty must being enough that it's the only thing touching the top of the battery, otherwise it will short.

This is a good explain action with pics:
Hybrid Mech Mods Info and Safe Usage


Don't take this the wrong way, because it's good you are asking these questions, but please do a bit more research before using a mechancial mod.

the sage V2 that he was asking about is not a hybrid type mod. it has a floating spring loaded center pin so there is no need to limit its use to tanks with extended center pins. hybrid mods provide no real benefit and are an accident looking for a place to happen. it does take a little more knowledge to use a mech but many people have been using them without incident for years.

 

[Bad Ninja]

the sage V2 that he was asking about is not a hybrid type mod. it has a floating spring loaded center pin so there is no need to limit its use to tanks with extended center pins. hybrid mods provide no real benefit and are an accident looking for a place to happen. it does take a little more knowledge to use a mech but many people have been using them without incident for years.

I'm fully aware.

You should read the thread fully.
I explained this in second post.

Hybrids:

Hybrid mods are extremely safe because you cannot use the wrong atomizer. Hybrids have no 510 threads.

Pinless mods like the Able and SMPL are not hybrids.

They are "hybrid look" mods without a center pin.

There is a huge difference.

 

[UCChris]

Don't take this the wrong way, because it's good you are asking these questions, but please do a bit more research before using a mechancial mod.

If you read my first post you'll see that I've blown a battery up in my face lacerated my stomach with the button from that explosion. Scared the ever livin' hell outta me. Since then, I've done the research and know how to safely use mech mods. I know the safety procedures when using regular mech mods vs atty-to-battery mods. However, I'm simply wondering how a contact pin between the positive end of the battery and the bottom of the atty protects against shorts with an atty that doesn't have a protruding 510 pin?

 

[Bad Ninja]

If you read my first post you'll see that I've blown a battery up in my face lacerated my stomach with the button from that explosion. Scared the ever livin' hell outta me. Since then, I've done the research and know how to safely use mech mods. I know the safety procedures when using regular mech mods vs atty-to-battery mods. However, I'm simply wondering how a contact pin between the positive end of the battery and the bottom of the atty protects against shorts with an atty that doesn't have a protruding 510 pin?

Click the link I posted.
Look at the atomizer in the pic

The outer 510 threads are negative, the center pin on the atomizer positive.
Without a center pin, this is in direct contact with the positive pole of the battery.
If the pin doesn't protrude, both touch the battery and creates a dead short.

The centerpin on a mod makes contact while keeping the negative threads of the atty away from the positive pole of the battery.

Just follow the link I listed for a detailed picture.

 

[UCChris]

Right, I see what you're saying. So, even if the positive pin is recessed in the threads (negative) there won't be a short if you have a 510 pin. However, I don't understand how that works? Like, I get that it works, but I'm not sure why? A 510 pin is just a piece of conductive metal between the battery and atty. It still carries current, so I'm not sure why there isn't still a short. Does that make sense?

 

[Bad Ninja]

Right, I see what you're saying. So, even if the positive pin is recessed in the threads (negative) there won't be a short if you have a 510 pin. However, I don't understand how that works? Like, I get that it works, but I'm not sure why? A 510 pin is just a piece of conductive metal between the battery and atty. It still carries current, so I'm not sure why there isn't still a short. Does that make sense?

The 510 pin doesn't allow the negative threads to touch the top of the battery. They connect to the 510 threads of the tube/top cap.

 

[mhertz]

Just wanted to add that extended 510-pins past the threads isn't the only mandate for pinless-510 mods... Many tanks have extended 510-pins but in addition are spring-loaded, hence the requirement is a fixed extended 510-pin...

Just an addendum for the beginners reading along this thread possibly...

 

[UCChris]

Yup. The reason my battery exploded way back when I started was because I was using a tank with replaceable coils. The 510 pin protruded, but the only thing holding it in place was the plastic insulator. When I fired it, the 510 pin was pushed up until the battery hit the threads.

With most RDA's, AFAIK, the 510 is used to secure the positive post by threading into it. This makes the 510 "fixed"

 

[Bad Ninja]

Yup. The reason my battery exploded way back when I started was because I was using a tank with replaceable coils. The 510 pin protruded, but the only thing holding it in place was the plastic insulator. When I fired it, the 510 pin was pushed up until the battery hit the threads.

With most RDA's, AFAIK, the 510 is used to secure the positive post by threading into it. This makes the 510 "fixed"

Over tightening can cause that.

All of the positive connections are secured with delrin/plastic insulator.
Over tightening will cause it to move because the insulator is what secures it to the deck, which is negative.