RDA Any Tricks to Clean RDA Coil Gunk
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Without taking the wick out, I'd say no.
The reason being, some (maybe even invisible to the naked eye) of the gunk you manage to scrape off you coil(s) will end up sticking to your wick, causing you to have to re-wick anyway.
The reason being, some (maybe even invisible to the naked eye) of the gunk you manage to scrape off you coil(s) will end up sticking to your wick, causing you to have to re-wick anyway.
Burning the gunk off with pulses seems to be the easiest and most effective way to clean em. I doubt there's a good alternative method that doesn't involve removing the wick.
After plenty of practice, it can take just a couple of minutes to change a wick. So I'd be dry burning and then replacing the wick regardless.
If you are using a mech, you can dry burn the coil and stick it under the faucet while it's still red hot. Cleans it like new fast. Just make sure you're not firing it when you put it under the tap. Be careful, wouldn't recommend on a reg device obviously.
I have a set if very small wire brushes. Take the wick out, scrub out the inside and then the outside. Return for a nice glow. Just don't use the brush when the coil is hot. The wire brushes (cheap wire) can melt.
Cut & roll your cotton in advance if you're using Japanese pads. I've had problems with some juices gunking up my coils within a day, so I was changing my cotton daily & dry burning the foul tasting gunk off.
why not on a regulated mod.
I do it on all my mods you are only just putting the coil under the dripping tap and NOT THE MOD.
just take a little extra care not to get ya mod wet .
The dry burn GLOW and QUENCH method is ok to use on KANTHAL and STAINLESS
BUT NOT ON ALL WIRES as some should never be allowed to get to the glowing stage .
look after your coils and they will last a while .
I read not to do it from whatever source back then I learned the trick from. Tried it with my ipv3 and it crashed it. So after that stopped cleaning coils that way on regs. I use mech 99% of the time anyway
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no problem I just asked as ive always done it on all my regs and not had a problem.
I am very careful tho not to get my mods wet .
on some of my real bad gunked coils ie clappys and parallels it does take a few goes to get them all nice and spiffy again .
Its worth it to get that flavor back.
In my experience excess flavoring is what gunks coils. To minimize that and address some other issues I do DIY and minimizeee flavoring. I replaced a wick this morning that was a week old (50ml). The wick was pristine under the coil. The coil itself darkens with use but accumulates almost no gunk. Even so, after I replaced the wick and lightly brushed the coil throat hit improved.
Consider mixing unflavored DIY with the same percent of nic, pg and vg as the commercial flavored mix you like then dilute it 75%. You might find your taste adapts, it still tastes fine, coils gunk up much slower and you save some money.
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KA1, SS, & N80 can all be dry burned just fine. I doubt nickel is being used so no need to worry about it but you can dry burn that too.
You will have to take out the wick regardless with the running water method. I find dipping a red hot coil into a cup cold water does it better than running it under a faucet.
A different style of coil may also help it from getting gunked so fast.
What kind of coil are you running?
Depends I'd say, if it's Kanthal and oxidized such aggressive cooling contraction could disrupt the insulating surface and ultimately make for hotter performance due to breaks in electron flow (breakdown voltage). A likely cause of gunking due to overheating. Same effect as a bad terminal connection at the point or points of disruption.
Unless you rewick often it's a tradeoff between marring the wire surface with pulsing which may contribute to distorting the coil geometry or moderate use of water. I keep a small bottle of DW with a needle-dropcap at the workstation. Use it sparingly (micro-drops) on stubborn deposits to limit dry burn pulsing. Unwicked it's too easy to drive winds to temp's above 1200F and possible distortion. In all cases keeping unwetted temp's down helps maintain wire integrity, at least the geometry, which is essential to consistent uniform thermal output…whatever the wind design.
If you lose the coherence of your wind especially in carefully formed or tensioned multi-wire it's difficult if not impossible to restore it without risking further damage applying pressure. That's if you happen to notice you just broke your wind.
Some will scoff at this but just look at the pic's on this forum for the extremes of turn-to-turn surface temp variations. Can we say that different wire temps don't have a different effect on the juice? That too high will not scorch so fast as to immediately accrue like on a pan surface? Or too low relatively cause it to cook and congeal later to cool as unvaporized accretion? The physics in our vaporizers doesn't differ much from cooking with which we're all familiar. Why would we think otherwise?
Now back to distortion. Contact coils of any kind can distort (warp) easily as heat expansion increases turn diameter. Don't want to mess with that too aggressively. Rapid contraction (cooling) will do it. Leave contact coils in the cooled state of separation and the benefits of internal vapor pressure and thermal concentration brought by contact are largely lost.
Keep the DW handy and good luck.
p.s. If you oversaturate the coil, even without magnification, you can observe steam expanding and separating the turns of a closed (contact) coil when fired wet. With tensioned coil, you'll see winds snap back into full contact. If you overheat a coil during dry burn, you lose embedded strain by introducing more energy than used to create the wind.
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