Official Squape R[eloaded] thread!
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W deck. My go to build. 3mm fused Clapton 27G or 27G kanthan twisted coil on 3mm. Clapton is at 0.35ohm and twisted at 0.4ohm. Found that for the first couple of drags I space it out and let the juice soak through the cotton. After that I can chain vape it down. Only use cotton bacon v2. Tried vapers cotton, kgd and got packs of some other sitting around. Found that cotton bacon v2 performs best for my vape style. Binned all my v1 the difference it too marked for me.
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Awesome, been waiting for them to come up with something new. Hardly touch my Rs these days. Bottom fill is to much of a pain in the .... Love the new design
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Thank you! I will give it a try tomorrow.
Thank you, but i use low wattage, what is described there seems to be interesting but i think requires higher wattages.
In any case thank you!
I did not tried any twisted wires so far. So ... i will give it a try.
Higher wattage. 22-28 is low for sub ohm builds and I prefer a cool vape. Hot vape is done on the velocity v2 with dual fused claptons at 0.4 ohms. 40w fine for me but my brother cranks it up to 55w on the same build asking how do I even vape at 40.
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My go-to coil on the W deck was a 9 wrap of 28ga kanthal at 7/64" (2.8mm) wicked with Japanese cotton to come in around 1.8ohm and vaped at ~18W
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For this amount of money I'm waiting for a few reviews to come out before I think about getting it
It's the same price as the old squape reloaded though isnt it? £124.99 as was the old one when released.
Just trying To guage from other avid squape reloaded users and see if the changes are worth it.
Looks complicated which could be a good thing but I also think it looks stunning.
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Just trying To guage from other avid squape reloaded users and see if the changes are worth it.
Looks complicated which could be a good thing but I also think it looks stunning.
sent from my BlackBerry Priv
Wake up everybody! Any advice on changing the glass in a Rs? Mine broke, so I bought 3. Problem is I've already broke the first one...
Wondering if I should have just bought a new Rs tank...
Wondering if I should have just bought a new Rs tank...
I don't think the non-English language will be an issue as the vision should help
Does he say anything about the new orings? I appreciate the help, but the old orings seem to be well in place. I'm afraid to change them, and add another problem.
I don't speak the language but this should help
https://www.cremedevape.com/WebRoot...diaGallery/StattQualm/Squape_replace_PMMA.pdf
https://www.cremedevape.com/WebRoot...diaGallery/StattQualm/Squape_replace_PMMA.pdf
Thanks for your help! I couldn't find the information in that link you posted anywhere. It was still a pita, but I got it done. I highly recommend not changing orings unless you have to, that was the worst of it.
I use a mesh wick, micro coil 1.2 ohms 19.5 watts. 400 mesh rolled solid, no dry hits awesome flavor. Coil diameter is 1 size larger drill bit then will lay in the w deck. The mesh is packed in tight and clipped at the edge of the deck. I think the squape reloaded and taifun gt perform as good or better as my gennies . Flavor might be a little less but they are great for mesh. Easy to maintain, no leaks no dry hits!!
Back to the jumping ohms LOL
Well it started again with a vengeance - I ripped it down and gave it a few cycles in the ultrasonic cleaner and it was still all over the place, did the variations on how far out the 510 pin was and it was still going bonkers. I was ready to retire it for sure! When it works it is brilliant but when it doesn't it is infuriating.
But I think I have solved my problem.
I believe that a film gets coated on the pin from either the ematal deck or where it screws in. I used a pipe cleaning brush (not a normal pipe cleaner) it is similar to interdental brush. Using a little metal polish on the pipe brush I cleaned up all the contact points using like a screw going in the threaded area. I also had to really polish up the 510 pin as the dull grey coating wouldn't move easily. But metal polish did the trick. I believe this is oxidisation from the two different metal surface touching.
It's now working better than it ever has. Rock solid and no need for any new pin or aftermarket insulator, no need to mess around with how much or how little of the pin needs to stick out from the housing. The main point I believe, is not to just focus on the pin itself - I believe that oxidisation occurs in the housing that a normal clean, or even an ultrasonic clean won't completely remove. It needs to be carefully polished out with a mild abrasive (metal polish)
So... back to squaping
Well it started again with a vengeance - I ripped it down and gave it a few cycles in the ultrasonic cleaner and it was still all over the place, did the variations on how far out the 510 pin was and it was still going bonkers. I was ready to retire it for sure! When it works it is brilliant but when it doesn't it is infuriating.
But I think I have solved my problem.
I believe that a film gets coated on the pin from either the ematal deck or where it screws in. I used a pipe cleaning brush (not a normal pipe cleaner) it is similar to interdental brush. Using a little metal polish on the pipe brush I cleaned up all the contact points using like a screw going in the threaded area. I also had to really polish up the 510 pin as the dull grey coating wouldn't move easily. But metal polish did the trick. I believe this is oxidisation from the two different metal surface touching.
It's now working better than it ever has. Rock solid and no need for any new pin or aftermarket insulator, no need to mess around with how much or how little of the pin needs to stick out from the housing. The main point I believe, is not to just focus on the pin itself - I believe that oxidisation occurs in the housing that a normal clean, or even an ultrasonic clean won't completely remove. It needs to be carefully polished out with a mild abrasive (metal polish)
So... back to squaping
What is the ratio of your liquid? I had a Squape R (S) and everything would be going great ( used the wick method in the link above ) then bam, a dry or drish hit. Turns out that when refilling the tank one will get an air bubble that sort of stick to the sides and with thick liquid it can sometimes just sit there and stop flowing.
Give it a tap till you see some air bubbles with filling and all should be fine.
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