Why 3 batteries? Anyway with 8.4v you have to use 2s to begin with. And from here you go multiple of 2's. 2s2p (4 batteries) or 2s3p (6 batteries) etc ...
Why do you want it to run with 3 batteries?
you can use 2 batteries, make sure to check the wiring to ignore the 3rd battery and put the bottle in there. You are building a bottom feeder right?I was going to use an old rx200 body I have laying around to put the board in..
That is a great idea,but i have a couple questions.First,what did you use to flange the bigger needle?I have thought about making my own tubes like this,but haven't found a flange tool small enough to do it,smallest i have seen is 3/16".Second,that is quite a bit bigger than the fd one,does it still fit through the 510 connector stock,or did you have to drill it out to fit that monster haha.also, on the fat daddy vapes bottom feeder pins. does anyone find them to be a bit to restrictive? I've used them for a long time now but I find them to make squonking a bit restrictive with pure VG so now I've been making my own bottom feeder pins from larger 316SS hypodermic tubing. what a world of difference
the FDV uses a 15 gauge needle with a 1.5mm inner passage. it also uses a pretty thin wall so it crushes pretty easy with a screw set collet connection. I'm now using a 12 gauge needle with a 2.4mm inner passage and a wall thickness that's almost twice as thick so a single screw collet can be really tightened good to it without deforming it much
here is the FDV next to what I'm using now
the whole FDV tube fits inside the new tube with room to spare. the difference in squonk is huge
also here is a picture of a well used collet I made, this is on the FDV pin, the one for the new pin is of course a little bigger to fit the larger tube but same idea
Thanks for the info.I don't use any fat daddy parts in my 510 anymore, but you should be able to drill his stock bushing out to take a bigger needle. I make my own bushing from peek because it is much stronger than the original soft plastic. with a peek bushing and only ~3-4 threads engaged it is very strong, never gonna strip. I use silicone tubing as an insulator, it doubles as a spring load for the 510 making it self adjusting and ensures a 100% leak proof seal when the atty is screwed on, which compresses the seal and also makes a higher pressure connection for the 510.
I've searched all over for any kind of flange tooling for tubes this small but nothing exists, so I've come up with a way to flange the tubing by chucking it in a lathe with just a slight amount of stick-out and then using a pointed punch in the drill chuck, the pointed punch will cause friction as it is pressed into the spinning tube, heating the SS enough to allow the end to expand a bit to the tapered slope of the punch as it is pressed into the tube end, this creates a flared flange end, then I switch over to the back of the punch which is a flat faced surface and use this to press the flanged end to flat, then spin grind that down to the correct diameter. it's a little tricky to get the right amount of pressure and friction to get the right amount of heat without ruining the flange or splitting the tubing, but after a few times trying it does work well. you don't want to spin the tube too fast, just a slow spin with deliberate pressure to reform the end and a little lube can't hurt. I'll try to get some pictures next time I make one
I haven't seen any,but there may be some out there.Only thing is,even if the board is pre wired,you would still have to solder to connect it to the 510 connector.So is there anywhere I can order a DNA 200 pre wired? Soldering is going to be a big problem for me.
You can buy a DNA200 mod, but I'm not sure exactly what you mean by pre-wired,
pre-wired to a 510? a LIPO battery or two 18650s?
No.Question, could I use the Fully max 900 LIPO on the DNA 75?