Bought my first Mech Mod, scared to use it...

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BradJ

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Having never used a mechanical mod before, I wanted to try it. I found this deal on Ebay for $8.99 shipped: www.ebay.com/itm/131775934011

I'm scared of it... there are no battery vent holes, and the bottom switch seams like it's possible to just screw in too tight and lock the button pressed.

Am I missing something? There were no instructions provided.

I've already requested and received an RMA but could this possibly work? I do have good batteries for it.

If not, there is there a popular, reliable, safe mech mod available for $20 or less?
 

retic1959

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Having never used a mechanical mod before, I wanted to try it. I found this deal on Ebay for $8.99 shipped: www.ebay.com/itm/131775934011

I'm scared of it... there are no battery vent holes, and the bottom switch seams like it's possible to just screw in too tight and lock the button pressed.

Am I missing something? There were no instructions provided.

I've already requested and received an RMA but could this possibly work? I do have good batteries for it.

If not, there is there a popular, reliable, safe mech mod available for $20 or less?
I'm not even sure what kind of clone that is but you'd be better off with something like this.
$20.02 King III Style Mechanical Mod - copper / 18350/18500/18650 at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping
 
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sawlight

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That's a Nemesis clone, look on youtube, lots of videos on them. There are vent holes in the bottom, not the best, but they are there.
You adjust the battery rattle with the silver contact pin on the switch, then screw the switch all the way in, the outer ring on the switch locks the switch so it wont fire. These aren't hard to set up or use.
 

Firestorm

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I think the Nemesis is a fantastic mechanical mod. It is a sectional mod so you can use it with different lengths of batteries. It has a beauty ring that you can use with a mechanical fuse if you're concerned about safety. As sawlight already said, it should have venting through the switch - you should see vertical slots through the threading. The switch can use springs or magnets to stand upright without firing for most all atomizers. There is a locking ring to make sure the mod cannot fire. The best part about the Nemesis is that you can adjust for almost all atomizer and battery combinations with the adjustable 510 pin and the switch. The only gripe that I have with the Nemesis is that you need to regularly make sure that the switch contact is always screwed down tight as it tends to come loose overtime. If it becomes too loose the mod can auto fire.

From the ad that you posted it looks like you bought a Nemesis clone. The quality can vary from manufacturer to manufacturer. I've seen clones of great quality and others so poor they weren't functional. I have three authentic Nemesis mods that I enjoy and used to use with different mechanical fuses (Short Stop and VapeSafe). I think that you should watch videos, learn about battery safety, and get some fuses so you will be more knowledgable and feel more confident using your new gear.

A lot of the problems that you hear about mechanical mods and batteries exploding are due to dead shorts when using hybrid-style top caps that have no center pin in order for the atomizer to make direct contact with the battery. Although there are such adapters for the Nemesis, there is not such a concern with the standard top cap that will safely use an atomizer with a recessed center pin.
 

BradJ

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Thanks everybody.

I watched the video sawlight posted and then a few more, longer ones. I got it calibrated and working. The locking ring was confusing me as I thought it was supposed to lock the switch back and not cover the vent holes during usage. But it's actually to open vent holes and prevent firing when not in use. :)

So yeah, I guess you can't beat $8.99 delivered, and this clone is actually machined incredibly well. This one was featured in I think all of the videos I watched: Atmomixani.

All in all, I like it now, and it works, but my Eleaf Istick 50w seems to deliver bigger vapes? Is that normal? I just bought new Sony 18650s http://www.amazon.com/Original-Sony-US18650VTC4-2100mAh-Rechargeable/dp/B00LL43I5S and using those in the Nemesis
 

sonicbomb

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Thanks everybody.
The locking ring was confusing me as I thought it was supposed to lock the switch back and not cover the vent holes during usage. But it's actually to open vent holes and prevent firing when not in use. :)

All in all, I like it now, and it works, but my Eleaf Istick 50w seems to deliver bigger vapes? Is that normal? I just bought new Sony 18650s Amazon.com: 2x Original Sony US18650VTC4 2100mAh 30A High Drain Rechargeable Battery: Electronics and using those in the Nemesis

So you are saying the vent holes are only open when the mod is locked? That's not good, you want them open all the time especially when it's being used.

As to how much vapor it's producing ~ what atomizer are you using and do you understand that amount of power being delivered to it is dictated by the resistance of the coil?
 

BradJ

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Can I post pics here?

There are holes in the top ring which line up with indentions but they don't seem to work as can't blow down through the top even when they're lined up.

There are four holes in 45 degree intervals in the side of the main body, where it slims to fit the locking ring.

I can't seem to keep a gap there to keep those holes open and also screw down the switch tight... so if the holes are exposed the whole bottom piece and switch are kind of floating.

I don't know the exact model of my atty but it's branded "FREAKSHOW". It's, I think, a high quality RBA dripper. Dual coil wrapped at 0.4 ohms and new organic cotton.
 

Ben85

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Yes you can post pics here.

I think you need to do some reading into mech's just to help you enjoy the experience more. With that build btw, with a fresh battery, that calculates to 44 watts and that's before you take off the voltage drop. So realistically, you are looking at a max of 40 watts. That's why your other mod performs better.
 

sawlight

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So you are saying the vent holes are only open when the mod is locked? That's not good, you want them open all the time especially when it's being used.

As to how much vapor it's producing ~ what atomizer are you using and do you understand that amount of power being delivered to it is dictated by the resistance of the coil?
It's hard to explain, when it's locked the holes are wide open, when it's unlocked the holes are partially covered, but never closed off. The ring has an open groove in the top of it to allow the vents to breath. You have to handle one to really get it.
 

gpjoe

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I had a Nemesis clone, and if I remember correctly, the holes in the top cap of the Nemesis are to allow (and adjust) airflow to the atomizer, if you were using an old-school carto that draws air from around the 510 connector. The holes do nothing with an RDA and are not battery vent holes.
 

Bad Ninja

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The OP really needs to do the proper research that should have been done BEFORE purchasing a mechanical mod.

Its a Nemesis clone. There are countless pages of information on the design as its one of the most popular mechanical mods ever made.
( I have 3. SS, Brass and Copper)
 

sawlight

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The OP really needs to do the proper research that should have been done BEFORE purchasing a mechanical mod.

Its a Nemesis clone. There are countless pages of information on the design as its one of the most popular mechanical mods ever made.
( I have 3. SS, Brass and Copper)
Just trying to make the best out of the situation at hand.
 

duc916

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You adjust the battery rattle with the silver contact pin on the switch

Uh, nope. That was a common misconception when this mod first came out, and unfortunately still persists. I had 3 or 4 Nemesis clones from different manufacturers; none of them ever required a loose switch pin. I tightened them all down with pliers. Not only does a loose contact pin risk losing the rice-pin, but can cause terrible voltage drop.

The problem people typically run into is they leave the kick ring installed without a kick, and end up with a loose battery. They're the same ones who refer to it as a "beauty ring". :D Then they compensate for that extra 3mm or so of tube length by extending that switch pin. It isn't supposed to be loose (i.e. extended). Install the proper tubes, remove the kick ring, tighten the switch pin completely and your 65mm long 18650 battery (button top or flat-top, doesn't matter) will stack up perfectly in your mod as intended.

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sawlight

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Uh, nope. That was a common misconception when this mod first came out, and unfortunately still persists. I had 3 or 4 Nemesis clones from different manufacturers; none of them ever required a loose switch pin. I tightened them all down with pliers. Not only does a loose contact pin risk losing the rice-pin, but can cause terrible voltage drop.

The problem people typically run into is they leave the kick ring installed without a kick, and end up with a loose battery. They're the same ones who refer to it as a "beauty ring". :D Then they compensate for that extra 3mm or so of tube length by extending that switch pin. It isn't supposed to be loose (i.e. extended). Install the proper tubes, remove the kick ring, tighten the switch pin completely and your 65mm long 18650 battery (button top or flat-top, doesn't matter) will stack up perfectly in your mod as intended.

View attachment 560417
Good catch, you are correct! I forgot I actually loc-tited my pin into the switch. Sorry about that miss! adjust battery rattle with screwing the switch in and out, adjust atty height with the 510 pin by screwing it in and out.
 

BradJ

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The OP really needs to do the proper research that should have been done BEFORE purchasing a mechanical mod.

Its a Nemesis clone. There are countless pages of information on the design as its one of the most popular mechanical mods ever made.
( I have 3. SS, Brass and Copper)
I'm sure you're right.

However my main concern is getting off cigs. I've relapsed and relapsed and relapsed.

Grasping at straws now. Just want a simple vape to stave off lung cancer. Thanks
 
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BradJ

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What wire size and type are you using? This as well as resistance and power will have a big impact on how much vapour is produced.....Using the same build and atty how many watts are you using on the regulated mod to get your preferred vape?
I don't know. The guy at vape shop built it for me and tried to teach me how to do it, but we were basically just aiming at 0.5 ohms. Ended up 0.3 but then it stabilized at 0.4. Pretty sure it's brand name Kanthal? IIRC 6 or 7 winds. I put the RBA on my regulated mod and set that at 50 watts.
 
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