BOTTOM FEEDERS= a place for everything modified and/or custom made

[Aal_]

Its made to be ran with 2 18650 batteries according to supplyer.. 8.2v to operate the board.

Why 3 batteries? Anyway with 8.4v you have to use 2s to begin with. And from here you go multiple of 2's. 2s2p (4 batteries) or 2s3p (6 batteries) etc ...

Why do you want it to run with 3 batteries?

 

[badinfluence357]

Why 3 batteries? Anyway with 8.4v you have to use 2s to begin with. And from here you go multiple of 2's. 2s2p (4 batteries) or 2s3p (6 batteries) etc ...

Why do you want it to run with 3 batteries?

I was going to use an old rx200 body I have laying around to put the board in..

 

[Aal_]

I was going to use an old rx200 body I have laying around to put the board in..

you can use 2 batteries, make sure to check the wiring to ignore the 3rd battery and put the bottle in there. You are building a bottom feeder right?

 

[turbocad6]

Eddie, the trick to soldering is don't use the soldering iron as the main way to melt the solder itself, use the soldering iron mainly to heat up the connection you are soldering, and then melt the solder with the heated connection itself, once it gets up to temperature. yes you'll want to use the tip of the iron to melt a little solder to tin the tip, but this is mainly to promote heat transfer to the part you are soldering. use flux to also help with the heat transfer to get the connection up to temp.

while soldering you can touch the tip of the iron with the solder just a little at first to really get the heat transfer going, but once it does, you want to melt the solder right into the heated connection, not with the iron tip itself. once you understand this, soldering is easy.

also, on the fat daddy vapes bottom feeder pins. does anyone find them to be a bit to restrictive? I've used them for a long time now but I find them to make squonking a bit restrictive with pure VG so now I've been making my own bottom feeder pins from larger 316SS hypodermic tubing. what a world of difference

the FDV uses a 15 gauge needle with a 1.5mm inner passage. it also uses a pretty thin wall so it crushes pretty easy with a screw set collet connection. I'm now using a 12 gauge needle with a 2.4mm inner passage and a wall thickness that's almost twice as thick so a single screw collet can be really tightened good to it without deforming it much


here is the FDV next to what I'm using now

the whole FDV tube fits inside the new tube with room to spare. the difference in squonk is huge

also here is a picture of a well used collet I made, this is on the FDV pin, the one for the new pin is of course a little bigger to fit the larger tube but same idea

 

[b.m.]

also, on the fat daddy vapes bottom feeder pins. does anyone find them to be a bit to restrictive? I've used them for a long time now but I find them to make squonking a bit restrictive with pure VG so now I've been making my own bottom feeder pins from larger 316SS hypodermic tubing. what a world of difference

the FDV uses a 15 gauge needle with a 1.5mm inner passage. it also uses a pretty thin wall so it crushes pretty easy with a screw set collet connection. I'm now using a 12 gauge needle with a 2.4mm inner passage and a wall thickness that's almost twice as thick so a single screw collet can be really tightened good to it without deforming it much


here is the FDV next to what I'm using now

the whole FDV tube fits inside the new tube with room to spare. the difference in squonk is huge

also here is a picture of a well used collet I made, this is on the FDV pin, the one for the new pin is of course a little bigger to fit the larger tube but same idea

That is a great idea,but i have a couple questions.First,what did you use to flange the bigger needle?I have thought about making my own tubes like this,but haven't found a flange tool small enough to do it,smallest i have seen is 3/16".Second,that is quite a bit bigger than the fd one,does it still fit through the 510 connector stock,or did you have to drill it out to fit that monster haha.

 

[Tagi]

This may seem like a duh question but what is the pin for?

Could this be why my FD v5 and v4 510 connections leak juice down on the inside?

 

[turbocad6]

I don't use any fat daddy parts in my 510 anymore, but you should be able to drill his stock bushing out to take a bigger needle. I make my own bushing from peek because it is much stronger than the original soft plastic. with a peek bushing and only ~3-4 threads engaged it is very strong, never gonna strip. I use silicone tubing as an insulator, it doubles as a spring load for the 510 making it self adjusting and ensures a 100% leak proof seal when the atty is screwed on, which compresses the seal and also makes a higher pressure connection for the 510.

I've searched all over for any kind of flange tooling for tubes this small but nothing exists, so I've come up with a way to flange the tubing by chucking it in a lathe with just a slight amount of stick-out and then using a pointed punch in the drill chuck, the pointed punch will cause friction as it is pressed into the spinning tube, heating the SS enough to allow the end to expand a bit to the tapered slope of the punch as it is pressed into the tube end, this creates a flared flange end, then I switch over to the back of the punch which is a flat faced surface and use this to press the flanged end to flat, then spin grind that down to the correct diameter. it's a little tricky to get the right amount of pressure and friction to get the right amount of heat without ruining the flange or splitting the tubing, but after a few times trying it does work well. you don't want to spin the tube too fast, just a slow spin with deliberate pressure to reform the end and a little lube can't hurt. I'll try to get some pictures next time I make one

 

[b.m.]

I don't use any fat daddy parts in my 510 anymore, but you should be able to drill his stock bushing out to take a bigger needle. I make my own bushing from peek because it is much stronger than the original soft plastic. with a peek bushing and only ~3-4 threads engaged it is very strong, never gonna strip. I use silicone tubing as an insulator, it doubles as a spring load for the 510 making it self adjusting and ensures a 100% leak proof seal when the atty is screwed on, which compresses the seal and also makes a higher pressure connection for the 510.

I've searched all over for any kind of flange tooling for tubes this small but nothing exists, so I've come up with a way to flange the tubing by chucking it in a lathe with just a slight amount of stick-out and then using a pointed punch in the drill chuck, the pointed punch will cause friction as it is pressed into the spinning tube, heating the SS enough to allow the end to expand a bit to the tapered slope of the punch as it is pressed into the tube end, this creates a flared flange end, then I switch over to the back of the punch which is a flat faced surface and use this to press the flanged end to flat, then spin grind that down to the correct diameter. it's a little tricky to get the right amount of pressure and friction to get the right amount of heat without ruining the flange or splitting the tubing, but after a few times trying it does work well. you don't want to spin the tube too fast, just a slow spin with deliberate pressure to reform the end and a little lube can't hurt. I'll try to get some pictures next time I make one

Thanks for the info.
I don't have a lathe yet,but i may try something similar with my drill press.I'm thinking maybe i can put the tube in the chuck,then put the punch in the vise on the table of the press,and adjust the speed down to the slowest setting.Hopefully it works,if not,at least the tubing won't be an expensive loss if it doesn't work.

 

[EddieAdams]

Yeah I figured out my problem turbo. Initially was very frustrated for quite a bit because I was trying to solder with a tip that was dirty therefore not transferring the heat well, if at all. Once I got a good tin and cleaned up started getting the proper results. Thanks though for taking the time.

I don't have any issues with the FDV feed tube diameters on their 510s. I do wish I had ordered the "long" BF 510.

Anyone know the ml capacity of FDV squonk bottles?
(Edit 7ml found it on another site)

Anyone know of a 10ml bottle LDPE with a 18mm diameter? New mod is ripping through liquid...

I have the 8ml vapage bottles and the fancy Italian bottles....

FDA BOC

 

[EddieAdams]

Turns out the vapage bottles actually hold 10ml....

FDA BOC

 

[avpx1]

Well I finally did it. I've been lurking for a while and thanks to you folks I decided to mod a cherry bomber clone to squonk, and built an unregulated series bottom feeder. Just wanted to share them with you all. My first mods and probably my last as well. I'm just not very adept at modding, but I'm proud of the accomplishment and vaping away happily

. Thanks for this thread.

 

[dethnode]

So is there anywhere I can order a DNA 200 pre wired? Soldering is going to be a big problem for me.

 

[b.m.]

So is there anywhere I can order a DNA 200 pre wired? Soldering is going to be a big problem for me.

I haven't seen any,but there may be some out there.Only thing is,even if the board is pre wired,you would still have to solder to connect it to the 510 connector.

 

[BobC]

You can buy a DNA200 mod, but I'm not sure exactly what you mean by pre-wired,

pre-wired to a 510? a LIPO battery or two 18650s?

 

[camerajunkie]

Hello fellow modders, I want to make my positive and negative wiring super clean and with the least amount of resistance while being safe. I've been seeing what I call "hard lines" going to the fire button, mosfet, or regulated chip. Are there any tutorials on how to do this and what the official term is called? Pics for reference.

Also where do you guys source your positive and negative contacts? I don't really like the keystone battery sleds. I keep trying to find silver ones but I can't seem to find any.

Edit** Did some searching and found these 2 types of 14g wiring, is this overkill? I really wanna do some fancy wire runs

Wire, sterling silver, half-hard, half-round
Wire, sterling silver, half-hard, half-round, 14 gauge. Sold per pkg of 5 feet. - Fire Mountain Gems and Beads

Wire, sterling silver, full-hard, half-round, 14 gauge
Wire, sterling silver, full-hard, half-round, 14 gauge. Sold per pkg of 5 feet. - Fire Mountain Gems and Beads

 

[dethnode]

You can buy a DNA200 mod, but I'm not sure exactly what you mean by pre-wired,

pre-wired to a 510? a LIPO battery or two 18650s?

I just mean with wires already soldered to the contact points on the board, I can do the rest like connecting to the LIPO, and the 510, its just precision soldering is a little tough on me, I have very shaky hands.

 

[BobC]

Gotchya, just so you know, the DNA200 is much easier to solder to then their older chips, so no worries there

 

[dethnode]

Well, I'm 32 years old and have essential tremors disorder. Think, parkinsons but not quite as bad. Normally, my tremor is not debilitating, but when I am concentrating on trying to hold something still, the stress of trying to stop the shaking makes it much much worse. Take for example, when hunting, I am focused on aiming and firing at my target quickly, and I am a fairly decent shot. When shooting targets at a distance however, I am too stressed about trying to not shake, thereby making my shaking far far worse to the point that I was unable to qualify the last time I shot an m16 in the military.

Even wrapping coils, without things like the coiling gizmo, I could never rebuild coils. I may give it a shot anyway, perhaps if I go without caffine for a day or two, and have a chain vape session before hand, maybe I could get my nerves settled enough to do it.

 

[dethnode]

Question, could I use the Fully max 900 LIPO on the DNA 75?

 

[drmarble]

Question, could I use the Fully max 900 LIPO on the DNA 75?

No.
The Fully max lipo is an 11.2 volt battery (3 cells in series). The DNA 75 uses a single 3.4 volt battery. You would need a 1S lipo or 18650.