BOTTOM FEEDERS= a place for everything modified and/or custom made

[camerajunkie]

Finally picked up a Proxxon MF 70 and all the doo-hickies I need. The 3d printed box mod was a bust. I currently have been working on this Floris Delfino enclosure I got the Orca dna 75. I'm also doing a little something to a REO Grand I can't wait to show you guys.

For now I have installed a Varitube 510 cup with @custom-classic SS Pin and tool-less adjustment nut. The reason I didn't use Corey's 510 cup is because I'm afraid that heat dissipation from the atty might damage the Delrin/POM. Correct me if I'm wrong here. I also think Corey's design is ingenious and the flavor is out of this world with the SS pin he makes.

This weekend I gotta head out of town, but next week I should be getting my mill, then to save up for the GoCNC.de kit and for a small hobby lathe as well. Also got the wire run in my head and will be sketching up a wiring diagram for myself based off of other solid wire runs I have seen. Finally making some progress.

On the REO Grand front that I posted pretty much a year ago, I wasn't able to get the results I liked since I didn't have tools, I was sick of sanding and effin' around with that, so I was casually looking for some end mill bits on e-bay when a really good deal came up on a barely used MF70. Since my friends locally are all excited I'm finally making mods, since I've been talking about it for so long, they all threw in deposits for parts on the mods they want me to make them, so I was able to finally afford an MF70. I'm just making mods for friends and myself ^_^ for now. Don't want to get into selling anything just yet, because A. I haven't made a mod yet and B. it's going to become work and with work/school/freelance jobs, don't need the headache of yet another job.

Now does anyone know a decently priced 22mm HSS end-mill with a 3/8" shank?
Everything I've been looking at is at least $50. I literally want to make a 1mm cut so that the VT 510 sits flush on the delrin body.

Thanks Corey @custom-classic for teaching me how to deal with 510s and for getting me these sweet parts!

 

[Aal_]

Finally picked up a Proxxon MF 70 and all the doo-hickies I need. The 3d printed box mod was a bust. I currently have been working on this Floris Delfino enclosure I got the Orca DNA 75. I'm also doing a little something to a REO Grand I can't wait to show you guys.

For now I have installed a Varitube 510 cup with @custom-classic SS Pin and tool-less adjustment nut. The reason I didn't use Corey's 510 cup is because I'm afraid that heat dissipation from the atty might damage the Delrin/POM. Correct me if I'm wrong here. I also think Corey's design is ingenious and the flavor is out of this world with the SS pin he makes.

This weekend I gotta head out of town, but next week I should be getting my mill, then to save up for the GoCNC.de kit and for a small hobby lathe as well. Also got the wire run in my head and will be sketching up a wiring diagram for myself based off of other solid wire runs I have seen. Finally making some progress.

On the REO Grand front that I posted pretty much a year ago, I wasn't able to get the results I liked since I didn't have tools, I was sick of sanding and effin' around with that, so I was casually looking for some end mill bits on e-bay when a really good deal came up on a barely used MF70. Since my friends locally are all excited I'm finally making mods, since I've been talking about it for so long, they all threw in deposits for parts on the mods they want me to make them, so I was able to finally afford an MF70. I'm just making mods for friends and myself ^_^ for now. Don't want to get into selling anything just yet, because A. I haven't made a mod yet and B. it's going to become work and with work/school/freelance jobs, don't need the headache of yet another job.

Now does anyone know a decently priced 22mm HSS end-mill with a 3/8" shank?
Everything I've been looking at is at least $50. I literally want to make a 1mm cut so that the VT 510 sits flush on the delrin body.

Thanks Corey @custom-classic for teaching me how to deal with 510s and for getting me these sweet parts!

That looks clean and nice.

 

[laurie9300]

Now does anyone know a decently priced 22mm HSS end-mill with a 3/8" shank?
Everything I've been looking at is at least $50. I literally want to make a 1mm cut so that the VT 510 sits flush on the delrin body.

For a shallow cut, especially I'm delrin, you could use a Forstner bit...

BOTTOM FEEDERS= a place for everything modified and/or custom made

 

[muzichead]

For now I have installed a Varitube 510 cup with @custom-classic SS Pin and tool-less adjustment nut. The reason I didn't use Corey's 510 cup is because I'm afraid that heat dissipation from the atty might damage the Delrin/POM. Correct me if I'm wrong here. I also think Corey's design is ingenious and the flavor is out of this world with the SS pin he makes.

The 510 Corey is now using is from Peter, (Pdib). I really don't think you will have any problem with heat in any part of it. Here's the 510's from his reference thread... Li’l PINCH reference: facts ‘n’ figures

 

[Pdizzle]

Going to try a dna75 dual parallel bf In a joyetech Rx200. Wish me luck

Any opinions on the fdv v3 bottom feeder pins? I've got a few here I've never used the pins tho

 

[aaron_puente]

Ok!


Enviado desde mi iPhone con Tapatalk

 

[Pdizzle]

Paging @Subohmies
I'm test fitting a dna75 in an Rx200
I've noticed the inductors on the back of the board aren't lining up with the indents in the frame of the Rx200 so I can't screw in the mounting screw near the usb port. Was that the case with the dna 200? And how did you get around it

 

[Doffy]

$21.18 Chainsmoker V2 Styled 2*18650 Mechanical Box Mod (V2, 2*18650, Aluminum + Chromed Brass, Silver) at m.FastTech.com

Trying to convert one of these. 510 looks to be the trickiest part.

Sent from my LG-H815 using Tapatalk

 

[TheWestPole]

$21.18 Chainsmoker V2 Styled 2*18650 Mechanical Box Mod (V2, 2*18650, Aluminum + Chromed Brass, Silver) at m.FastTech.com

Trying to convert one of these. 510 looks to be the trickiest part.

Sent from my LG-H815 using Tapatalk

Hefty bugger, but love the Dimitri type switch. The best box mech switch design IMO. No current passes through the button mechanism, so contact is very consistent.

I'd replace the 510 entirely with the longest FatDaddy or a custom, replace the stamped copper piece with a wire soldered to the tube fitting at one end and a ring terminal at the other, which will mount to the switch just like stock.

 

[proteckt3d]

Hello, first time posting in this thread. Don't have access to fat daddy so I'm going to drill my own 510 pin and thought to ask here for some advice. My screw is an m3 11mm ss screw which will sit in the atty's 510 connection. My question is, will a 1mm (1/32) drill bit be ok, is that the most common size for bf holes? Could I go higher like 1.2-1.3mm? Thinking that the wider the hole the better liquid will travel and also might make it easier to get it right as I'm just going to use a simple drilling machine and maybe a home-made vice. Also is there another type of drill bit that I can use after to clear the hole from residue? If not what tools are normally used to clean the hole? Thanks

Edit: If this was discussed fully before in this thread please direct me to the page(s). Sorry I'm not going through the entire thread which I think would be nice but I don't need all that info now.

 

[Rossum]

Hello, first time posting in this thread. Don't have access to fat daddy so I'm going to drill my own 510 pin and thought to ask here for some advice. My screw is an m3 11mm ss screw which will sit in the atty's 510 connection. My question is, will a 1mm (1/32) drill bit be ok, is that the most common size for bf holes? Could I go higher like 1.2-1.3mm? Thinking that the wider the hole the better liquid will travel and also might make it easier to get it right as I'm just going to use a simple drilling machine and maybe a home-made vice. Also is there another type of drill bit that I can use after to clear the hole from residue? If not what tools are normally used to clean the hole? Thanks

Edit: If this was discussed fully before in this thread please direct me to the page(s). Sorry I'm not going through the entire thread which I think would be nice but I don't need all that info now.

A 1 mm feed hole is less than optimal. 1.5mm would be much better, but this pretty much requires a 3.5mm screw.

Drilling a hole axially through a stainless steel screw is not easy. Ideally, it would be done on a lathe. At an absolute minimum, you need a drill press.

 

[puffon]

....and a sharp Cobalt drill bit.

 

[proteckt3d]

I'm getting a titanium one puffon because I read it has more hardness and cuts with less friction. I don't see why someone couldn't do it by hand. I'll have screws to waste and it's just 10mm drill length. Worst case scenario I'll drill 5mm from each end. I will get one or two 1.5mm bits too and maybe skip the 1mm and go for a 1.2 then. The only question now when I'm ordering these things is what to use to clear the cut. I saw someone used ss mesh and I have some #500 from my old genny days. Will that be enough? If I can get mesh in there that is

 

[Alexander Mundy]

My 2cents, YMMV

I've never had to use anything but the bit and some liquid to clean out the hole. Drilling straight by hand is a ..... even for short distances when the bit is almost as big as the minor thread diameter. Done it successfully before, but also messed it up before. If you have a drill press, clamp down a piece of wood and drill a hole slightly smaller than the pin and press the pin in the hole. Change bits and drill. This will center the hole and makeup for any vertical offset the table might have. Go very slow at first so the bit doesn't dig into the slot in the pin head and snap. The material the pin is made of and it's hardness will determine the bit needed and the difficulty. If it's SS and you don't use lubricant and or get it hot it will work harden while you are drilling making it much harder with a greater likelihood of snapping a small bit. Also keep the chips cleared out. For small holes like that don't use thick oil, wd40 or 3 in one works for me. 1mm is marginal with high VG content like I use.

 

[proteckt3d]

Thanks for your post and tips Alex. I think it'll be enough to get me going. I'll update here with results when I get to it. Going to use WD40 as lubricant yes and also going to have a container of cold water to cool down the screw like I saw in one of DavidOH's posts here. Screw is 304 SS.

 

[Alexander Mundy]

I'm excited guys and gals. Found a filament for my 3D printer that is FDA approved for food contact, has a shore hardness of 40, and is translucent. It isn't clear but you can see the liquid level through it and is super squishy. I'd say half way between silicone and LDPE. This will open up a world of bottle shape possibilities to me. I have to use the principals of successful 3D printing when CADing the bottle and I can't print support inside so I will have to see at what angles I can successfully print walls. Here is the first test print I just did modeled after a Dripbox bottle. It fits perfectly but has some defects due to the tool path the slicer created which can be rectified. It didn't have any problem with the slope wall so I will increase that slope till failure and back off a little from there. Did I mention I'm excited?

 

[Masonite]

Hi Everyone, I've been a big a fan of this thread for awhile.
I'm not sure if this counts, but here's an Evic AIO and Dripbox that i took apart/combined to make my FrankenSquonk. So far works pretty well...easy to fill. The squonk hole is small though. When I get a chance I'll 3D print a the door with larger opening.

 

[penguiness]

Hi Everyone, I've been a big a fan of this thread for awhile.
I'm not sure if this counts, but here's an Evic AIO and Dripbox that i took apart/combined to make my FrankenSquonk. So far works pretty well...easy to fill. The squonk hole is small though. When I get a chance I'll 3D print a the door with larger opening. View attachment 594419 View attachment 594421 View attachment 594423 View attachment 594425 View attachment 594427

That looks like it was a lot of fun to do!

 

[Masonite]

That looks like it was a lot of fun to do!

It was pretty fun and simple to do....No power tools were involved. The trickiest part was getting the right seal around the bottle making sure i cut the right tube length off of the dripbox tube. I wasted two dripbox bottles trying to get it right.

 

[Sickbabies]

Just discovered this thread...

Really neat to see the early work of Corey etc.

I'm feeling inspired to build my own Squonker one day.

Sub'd