maybe another trick is you can crank up the watts some to get the coil rockin'-n-rollin' , then use one of
the slip-stream drip tips to cool it back down... (pretty cheap)
jus sayin'
You mean it cools the vapor? How? Do they make narrower ones?
Little itty bitty mods under $100.
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You mean it cools the vapor? How? Do they make narrower ones?
yes, allows air to be introduced into the vapor after the coil to cool it down - look around there is hundreds of styles...
just because I love these, easy to build and they work so good, maybe ya should give them a look
- JoyeTech Vape Clearomizers, Atomizer Heads & Tanks
and the newer version 2 (very cool)
- Joyetech eGo ONE Mega V2 Tank
I'd like something 22-23mm diameter (and short height preferably), narrow chimney, single coil rebuildable. Are the Ego Ones rebuildable and do they have narrow chimneys?yes, allows air to be introduced into the vapor after the coil to cool it down - look around there is hundreds of styles...
just because I love these, easy to build and they work so good, maybe ya should give them a look
View attachment 582319
- JoyeTech Vape Clearomizers, Atomizer Heads & Tanks
and the newer version 2 (very cool)
- Joyetech eGo ONE Mega V2 Tank
I'll look around for slipstream tips. Thanks for that.
BTW, I find that installing a protank coil is much easier that installing a Lemo coil. I've tried the Lemo both ways. Around the post screws was a bit easier than through the holes. But I love how easy it is to fasten the leads with the protank coils.
This is still the Lemo?
The air adjust is a nut around the internal 510 pin. Take off the base and rotate it clockwise to restrict air flow.
And maybe a tip with a smaller bore would help as well
I don't know if anyone cares, but Jai Haze did a vid review of the VT75 Nano. It's on YouTube.
I can't really paste it here because, well, you know (if you've ever watched him). I like the guy, and he likes the mod - a LOT.
I wonder if the prices will come down an itty-bitty...
I can't really paste it here because, well, you know (if you've ever watched him). I like the guy, and he likes the mod - a LOT.
I wonder if the prices will come down an itty-bitty...
Not sure this is the appropriate thread for all this, but what DavidOck said about the airflow control in the Lemo is correct. Snug it down far enough and it should close off the airflow to nothing or next-to-nothing. I always had a problem with it staying in place, though. The nut in mine is rather loose and the airflow in my Lemo Drop always opened up on its own over time. I ended up just using it wide open. Check out some youtube vids if you don't know where the nut is. Or maybe the instruction booklet.
I think you should maybe try a 1.4 to 1.6-ish ohm coil if you're going to use 28 ga kanthal in a Lemo. I don't understand your insistence on 2.5 ohms. I think a 2.5 ohm, 28 ga coil will need something like 20 watts to be viable. It will take forever to heat at 5 watts. Too much metal. If you want 4-5 watts, you probably have to stick with thin wire to get anything decent. If that's what you want, the Lemo may not be the tank for you.
Just curious, but what mod are you running the Lemo on? What tank, at what ohms, with what mod, at what wattage, gives you a desirable vape? Last time I heard of 2.5 ohm coils was with the Kanger Evods and Protanks. If that's what you're using and you're happy with them, why switch?
BTW, the CLR (not CL) coils on those tanks PufZepplin mentioned above are basically like the Kanger single coils. Leads are secured by a silicone (rubber?) sleeve and a positive pin and the wick sticks out the sides of the coil head. They should be easier to build than the Kanger singles because the CLRs are designed to be rebuilt. The top cap screws off instead of pops off. I dunno about 2.5 ohms though. <shrug> I think the stock CLR coils are either 1.0 or 0.5 ohms. If you're curious, youtube is again your friend. There's also an active thread on those tanks and the CLR heads. Check out PufZepplin's recent posts and you're likely to find it. I have one of the tanks in that line and I like it, but I can't say that you will. Haven't tried to rebuild a CLR head yet, but I know enough to say that it's similar to the Kanger singles.
Hey pufZ...GREAT pics (as always)!
2 quick questions...
1. Does Joyetech make a CLR-using Tank that is Top-Fill?
2. If I order a 5-pack of CLR coils...does each one come with a "heating wire" and wick already in it?
(if so...then I'd only have to "look into" rebuilding once I gunked up the coil/wick...)
(the pics on the site show only the "heating wire"...NO wick...)
Joyetech CLR Coils (5 pack)
..
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You need the CLR heads (R for Rebuildable) They're great
Yessir, they come "preloaded"
You can pick different starting resistances (0.5 and 1.0 most common)ETA - forgot to answer your first question - I haven't seen the eGo ONE as a Top-fill, and I haven't looked for others. I like all my eGo ONE tanks (I have all four sizes - thank you @pufZeppelin
)
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everyone is schooled nicely pertaining to the ego one system - proud of ya'll
like to always say to people " the CLR is re buildable, DON'T throw it away " it's so cool, it might seem like a disposable
here's a 'family' portrait of CLR types
I don't know of any top-fill tank using the CLR
like to always say to people " the CLR is re buildable, DON'T throw it away " it's so cool, it might seem like a disposable
here's a 'family' portrait of CLR types
I don't know of any top-fill tank using the CLR
Yessir, they come "preloaded"
WOW!!! I think it's slowly sinking in...
So...I buy a "Joyetech eGo ONE Mega V2 Tank" (because of its 4ml. capacity and BIG windows) and a couple 5-packs "Joyetech CLR Coils" 1.0Ω (since I'm a Tootle Puffer)...
Then...I can use the CLR Coils straight out-of-the blister pack...
When they're "gunked"...I then throw them into a baggie (to learn to rebuild after the FDA Dooming)...
How can I NOT???
..
WOW!!! I think it's slowly sinking in...
So...I buy a "Joyetech eGo ONE Mega V2 Tank" (because of its 4ml. capacity and BIG windows) and a couple 5-packs "Joyetech CLR Coils" 1.0Ω (since I'm a Tootle Puffer)...
Then...I can use the CLR Coils straight out-of-the blister pack...
When they're "gunked"...I then throw them into a baggie (to learn to rebuild after the FDA Dooming)...
How can I NOT???
..
Ed Zachary!
Actually, what I do with mine is pull the wick, do a quick dry burn, wisp a bit more cotton, trim, and I'm back in biddneth for a while longer. It's usually 3 or 4 dryburns before I start thinking about recoiling.....
Yes, the Lemo Drop. The first thing I did with it was adjust the airflow all the way to minimum. I learned that from videos and the instructions. I also replaced the drip tip with a small bore. That still left it way to airy for me.This is still the Lemo?
The air adjust is a nut around the internal 510 pin. Take off the base and rotate it clockwise to restrict air flow.
And maybe a tip with a smaller bore would help as well
My airflow adjustment "wheel" is very tight. Maybe I should loosen the nut a bit and see if I can turn the wheel further (I doubt it will, though).
My response to DavidOck above was partly response to what you wrote. My adjustment thing is very tight, unlike yours. I think I should loosen the nut and try adjusting again.
I'll try building a coil somewhere around 1.5Ω.
I wanted to start out trying to see if I can get a similar vape as with Protank coils. I can go lower resistence, but I want to stay very low wattage. I definitely want to build around 2.5Ω for protank coils, since that's what I like for little egos, but I have that down pretty well, now. The Lemo will be used with mods I can turn the power down using lower resistence, so that's a different strategy.
Sounds like good advice. I might try 30g wire, because 32g was difficult to wick.
My mods are a Pico and a Provari mini 2.5. So far, the tanks that use protank single bottom coils give me my best vaping on both those devices, at around 4-5 watts. 2.5Ω and 1.8Ω coils work fine (but I don't want to use 1.8Ω on my egos. I've got my solution for the egos, which probably aren't gonna outlast the FDA deeming).
Exactly. I've got my solution. Big tanks that use the protank coils. And I'm very happy with my solution. But I have this Lemo Drop, and I'm trying to see if that could work for me, too. The only thing I might like to improve on over Protank coiled tanks, is maybe one that is as wide as the Aerotank Mega, but a bit shorter, be it a rebuildable like a Kayfun, Lemo, etc, that I can find a way to build for vaping to my liking, or some other protank coil one that I haven't yet found with my searches.
What you're saying about how the leads fasten in the CLR sounds good to me. But I'm OK with the extra hassle with the way it's done in the Lemo. The feel of the vape is what I should focus on, and easier fastening would be welcome, but unnecessary.
Thanks for your help. I know my situation is not the usual, but I want to keep the nicotine % high (if you consider 1% high). I like nicotine, and I don't want to have to dilute it more than I have to with PG and VG. Plus, I don't like warm vapor.
That way of fastening, does sound nice. Might have to look into buying one, if I can build higher resistence than the ones they make. Probably 1.5 would be high enough.
I believe pico RTA is top fill, and some clones have CLR adapter option. Sorry for not providing the exact link, just about to enter moomoo land [emoji3]everyone is schooled nicely pertaining to the ego one system - proud of ya'll
like to always say to people " the CLR is re buildable, DON'T throw it away " it's so cool, it might seem like a disposable
here's a 'family' portrait of CLR types
View attachment 582433
I don't know of any top-fill tank using the CLR
Once you get your airflow control working, you might even try a 1.2 or 1.0 ohm 28 ga. coil. Pay attention to the heat flux rating in the coil calculator as you adjust the ohms on the coil. Plug in your usual Kanger coil and see what happens, then try to get close to that using the 28 ga.
BTW, I thought the Provari 2.5s only did volts and not watts. You do mean that you like to run at 4-5 watts and not volts, right?
Should be no problem building around 1.5. I often use a 1/16" or even a 2mm mandrel. Helps you position it while setting the insulator and bottom pin
Thanks. I'll pay attention to it, and I'll read up on that issue, too.
I did say watts. Easy to figure out the wattage, even without vw. Yup, 4-5 watts.
I don't know if anyone cares, but Jai Haze did a vid review of the VT75 Nano. It's on YouTube.
I can't really paste it here because, well, you know (if you've ever watched him). I like the guy, and he likes the mod - a LOT.
I wonder if the prices will come down an itty-bitty...
DPL, thank you!!!!!! I watched that video, and that lil itty bitty HCigar is ADORBS!!!!!!
Did you guys all see it?
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