Cupti By Kangertech

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DonnaVapes

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Agree on the Rose Gold. If you read any of this thread, you must realize I have not sought to sway people into buying one but took a lot of my time trying to compile as much accurate information on the device as I could in order to allow members to make informed decisions on whether or not to purchase the device.

No matter what a member chooses to do after reading the thread I will know I did my best to help them make their decision.

By the way thing go with Kanger's poor communication & documentation a certain amount of speculation is necessary to propose theories to discuss and then confirm or deny certain features later. It is like assembling a puzzle.

Oh gosh, I am so sorry if I gave you a bad impression with my babbling... no, I absolutely appreciate people like you who go above and beyond to give a real, full, genuine picture of a product... my upset is/was about the stuff I bought off of someone's highest recommendations, it's wonderful, etc. (the Cubis) and then the Crown clone because everyone said that tank was the be-all & end-all and it was/is horrible & now I'm out the cost of the tanks AND the packs of (genuine) coils for both AND some iSub losers & coils for those, too... It just sucks.

You are doing me and hundreds of others a ginormous favor because Kanger (and other mfgrs) & their little *promoters* on YT (whom I used to trust & respect until I figured out that everything they raved about wasn't great, because everything IS NOT GREAT, only some of the products are, and so they were basically just bragging up stuff they got for free just to get more free stuff...)

Perhaps Kanger and others are deliberately using the language barriers to their advantage - that way they can blame the errors on some poor slob that was just doing what he was told to do/say at the time.

Anyway, PLEASE don't think I was putting your review down, I was just babbling about my experiences and almost getting sucked in by someone on FB raving about her new mod (it did look gorgeous with her manicure!). :) I think I need to read what I type a little more closely to make sure I'm not offending or insulting someone inadvertently. It definitely is NOT my intention. Hope you'll forgive me?
 

Tpat591

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Oh gosh, I am so sorry if I gave you a bad impression with my babbling... no, I absolutely appreciate people like you who go above and beyond to give a real, full, genuine picture of a product... my upset is/was about the stuff I bought off of someone's highest recommendations, it's wonderful, etc. (the Cubis) and then the Crown clone because everyone said that tank was the be-all & end-all and it was/is horrible & now I'm out the cost of the tanks AND the packs of (genuine) coils for both AND some iSub losers & coils for those, too... It just sucks.

You are doing me and hundreds of others a ginormous favor because Kanger (and other mfgrs) & their little *promoters* on YT (whom I used to trust & respect until I figured out that everything they raved about wasn't great, because everything IS NOT GREAT, only some of the products are, and so they were basically just bragging up stuff they got for free just to get more free stuff...)

Perhaps Kanger and others are deliberately using the language barriers to their advantage - that way they can blame the errors on some poor slob that was just doing what he was told to do/say at the time.

Anyway, PLEASE don't think I was putting your review down, I was just babbling about my experiences and almost getting sucked in by someone on FB raving about her new mod (it did look gorgeous with her manicure!). :) I think I need to read what I type a little more closely to make sure I'm not offending or insulting someone inadvertently. It definitely is NOT my intention. Hope you'll forgive me?
Wow, not my intention at all to complain or try to guilt you. I didn't take it badly. I wouldn't even call what I have done as a proper review, but more of a list of observations & unsolicited opinions/babblings so no worries. Thank you for the kind thoughts though.

  • Regarding the Crown Clone leaking - look to the o-ring tank seals at top & bottom caps and make sure coil is properly seated. The crown itself is an excellent tank, but the clones usually are produced with poor o-rings. If you go over them & replace as necessary, they will usually do darn close to the original. I also lube -rings w juice before assembly to help them seal and slide easily to minimize possible damage to them.
  • Regarding Cubis - Get this drip tip to stop spitting: $1.37 303 Stainless Steel 510 Drip Tip - 18mm at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping. If coil is flooding regularly (not just after filling) it is either a poor seal at top of tank or o-ring on shaft where coil mounts. Any flooding from long term storage should vape off within a hit or so if seals are good and you can easily invert unit and it will pour out of drip tip if it is really bad.
All tanks/coils rely on a pressure differential vacuum created by consumption of juice to keep the coil from flooding or leaking. Air should only enter the tank when the cotton in the wicking has become dry enough to allow it pass though it in the form of bubbles from the wicking. Any device plagued with these flooding or leaking issues has a compromised seal that needs to be corrected to solve the problem.

Hope this unsolicited advice helps in some way to solve issues you have had. Enjoy!
 
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DonnaVapes

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Wow, not my intention at all to complain or try to guilt you. I didn't take it badly. I wouldn't even call what I have done as a proper review, but more of a list of observations & unsolicited opinions/babblings so no worries. Thank you for the kind thoughts though.
  • Regarding the Crown Clone leaking - look to the o-ring tank seals at top & bottom caps and make sure coil is properly seated. The crown itself is an excellent tank, but the clones usually are produced with poor o-rings. If you go over them & replace as necessary, they will usually do darn close to the original. I also lube -rings w juice before assembly to help them seal and slide easily to minimize possible damage to them.
  • Regarding Cubis - Get this drip tip to stop spitting: $1.37 303 Stainless Steel 510 Drip Tip - 18mm at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping. If coil is flooding regularly (not just after filling) it is either a poor seal at top of tank or o-ring on shaft where coil mounts. Any flooding from long term storage should vape off within a hit or so if seals are good and you can easily invert unit and it will pour out of drip tip if it is really bad.
All tanks/coils rely on a pressure differential vacuum created by consumption of juice to keep the coil from flooding or leaking. Air should only enter the tank when the cotton in the wicking has become dry enough to allow it pass though it in the form of bubbles from the wicking. Any device plagued with these flooding or leaking issues has a compromised seal that needs to be corrected to solve the problem.

Hope this unsolicited advice helps in some way to solve issues you have had. Enjoy!​
Thank you for not being hurt or offended, I just fear it sometimes when I go off on a tangent... no you didn't 'guilt me' -- that's my job. lol.

Often someone's observations & opinions are what helps others like me to make an informed choice on a product. I rely heavily on them in Amazon, too, just have to be sure they aren't a shill or someone who got it free to review, I think people who have to buy them are more honest (generally, not always true) and actual users of the product make the better reviewers if they wait until they have actually USED the item to review it. Not those ....oh, I've only had item x for an hour but it's the greatest thing since sliced bread... Um, yeah, baby! :)

Your 'unsolicited advice' is VERY WELCOMED! I know enough about tanks/atomizers to put all my knowledge in a thimble or two and have room left over! Thank you for such in-depth explanations of why I'm having so much trouble with them. For the first three hours of it's life with me, my Cubis was the best tank I'd ever owned, then I let it sit overnight and from then forward, no matter what I did, it either spit hot juice, gurgled, bubbled and did anything except perform as it should. The Crown clone never did really behave and LEAK... OMG did it leak!!! I lost over 3ml just overnight and if you slightly tilted it, juice just gushed out of the airholes all over your hand. I finally just cursed them both and put them away. I don't want an item that's supposed to give me pleasure have to be babysat and coddled. Just WORK DAMMIT... like the Cerotank V2 - works perfectly right out of the box, every time, without fail and vapes like a dream without issues. Same with my Endura T-18s and T-22s.

IF I get up the gumption to try some o-ring checking on the Crown and the iSubs and the Cubis, I shall do that...... I actually have a spiral drip tip that prevents spitting that I could use (it came on my AIO). From what I glean from your information, all these tanks have compromised seals... even though brand new. I thought I would love the isub Vortex since it got so many accolades but nope, it acts crappy like these aforementioned tanks. I even tried vaping above 40W - which did improve the crown for about an hour, then it began the river of juice again - all over. So I had enough & in the "NO" box it went with the other monster tanks. I wouldn't mind so much if I hadn't seen such rave reviews on forums and on youtube - so I'm assuming most of my issues are "Ignorance" "Operator Error" and more "Ignorance". I need simple to operate, no problems from the git-go and joyful MTL vaping instruments. (I am sort of 'old' so maybe that makes a little diffy?) Anyway, thank you again! You ROCK!!!
 

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Thank you for not being hurt or offended, I just fear it sometimes when I go off on a tangent... no you didn't 'guilt me' -- that's my job. lol.

Often someone's observations & opinions are what helps others like me to make an informed choice on a product. I rely heavily on them in Amazon, too, just have to be sure they aren't a shill or someone who got it free to review, I think people who have to buy them are more honest (generally, not always true) and actual users of the product make the better reviewers if they wait until they have actually USED the item to review it. Not those ....oh, I've only had item x for an hour but it's the greatest thing since sliced bread... Um, yeah, baby! :)

Your 'unsolicited advice' is VERY WELCOMED! I know enough about tanks/atomizers to put all my knowledge in a thimble or two and have room left over! Thank you for such in-depth explanations of why I'm having so much trouble with them. For the first three hours of it's life with me, my Cubis was the best tank I'd ever owned, then I let it sit overnight and from then forward, no matter what I did, it either spit hot juice, gurgled, bubbled and did anything except perform as it should. The Crown clone never did really behave and LEAK... OMG did it leak!!! I lost over 3ml just overnight and if you slightly tilted it, juice just gushed out of the airholes all over your hand. I finally just cursed them both and put them away. I don't want an item that's supposed to give me pleasure have to be babysat and coddled. Just WORK DAMMIT... like the Cerotank V2 - works perfectly right out of the box, every time, without fail and vapes like a dream without issues. Same with my Endura T-18s and T-22s.

IF I get up the gumption to try some o-ring checking on the Crown and the iSubs and the Cubis, I shall do that...... I actually have a spiral drip tip that prevents spitting that I could use (it came on my AIO). From what I glean from your information, all these tanks have compromised seals... even though brand new. I thought I would love the isub Vortex since it got so many accolades but nope, it acts crappy like these aforementioned tanks. I even tried vaping above 40W - which did improve the crown for about an hour, then it began the river of juice again - all over. So I had enough & in the "NO" box it went with the other monster tanks. I wouldn't mind so much if I hadn't seen such rave reviews on forums and on youtube - so I'm assuming most of my issues are "Ignorance" "Operator Error" and more "Ignorance". I need simple to operate, no problems from the git-go and joyful MTL vaping instruments. (I am sort of 'old' so maybe that makes a little diffy?) Anyway, thank you again! You ROCK!!!
I'm not saying all your seals are bad. I'm saying air is getting into the tank somehow & that is causing it to leak. That is the easy part. The hard part is figuring out exactly how. One small nick or abrasion is often enough to cause an issue. Fortunately there are not that many ways it can happen so it should be relatively easy to systematically check every seal, lubricate with juice, reinstall, tighten down, & thereby figure out how. There are only so many ways air can enter so it is not not terribly complicated to find the offending part. Many times just pulling the seals off & re-seating the o-ring a different way will solve the issue. If it is a particularly annoying problem tank I would use Sanitary food grade lubricant on one o-ring at a time until it went away, then replace that seal.

  • Crowns were notorious for the top tank seal getting damaged (and a dry seal is 5x more likely to leak than a wet one). Some clones have burrs in threads which may cause you to think your coil is seated when you install it when in fact it is not. Crowns also do like power though and if you are mtl w/ the air slots almost closed it will not perform well at all. It likes to breathe. Cubis is same way. Closing down air slots creates lower pressure in coil which in turn draws in more juice to the coil (a simplification of the process). If you draw in more than you vape off, flooding (leaking) results. For some simply opening the air a bit works wonders (I don't think this is your issue as it happens at idle times).
  • Nebox was notorious for the coil top seal leaking (merely an example).
  • Cubis flooding is often that the tank top seal doesn't tighten down enough to seal properly if the coil is not tightened down enough on the air shaft stem to allow the tank top seal enough room to fully seat when screwed on. Again wet seals work better than dry ones so a little juice on the o-ring may help.
 
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@Martin Lotsberg - Seriously, you couldn't post a link? You wanted to leave it to me to find it & do it?

For those of you unaware, this is Martin's original review

Oh sheesh, I didn't think to add it here, since we covered it, but I did link back to this thread since there is some great information, particularly the information you posted.

I was inspired by that other video where a little ball of e-juice shot out, that was so funny! But for whatever reason, mine never spit, besides when I removed the atomizer a couple times with the full tank, and I didn't see very much on the easy upside down fix with videos, so figured maybe that would help some more people.

I am still using the NEBOX and it is leaking some, so I am going to re-read what you wrote about the vacuum, and o-rings sealing properly.

I did just start using an eVic AIO I received today. I decided to close the air holes on the airflow adjustment before inserting the atomizer coil, and so far it is working great, with no spitting, with the 0.5 ohm coil that came with it.

I hadn't thought of closing the airflow on this type of set up, but I wonder if that made a difference (thinking of the vacuum thing again), but wow, the Cubis Pro I got a couple days ago is a spitting monster! That was the first time I got legitimate hot splatters of e juice in my mouth.

It did clear out some, and I drove with it and it bounced around and spit some more (like big atomizer pops), so I switched, but I won't give up yet :)
 
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IF I get up the gumption to try some o-ring checking on the Crown and the iSubs and the Cubis, I shall do that...... I actually have a spiral drip tip that prevents spitting that I could use (it came on my AIO). From what I glean from your information, all these tanks have compromised seals... even though brand new.

I recently tried out my Cubis, after putting it away, due to spitting, and used a quick trick I tried with the Eleaf Lyche, and the Cubis has stopped spitting for me. I did a quick video on it also, where I just flipped it upside down and inserted a twisted up paper towel, and it worked, just like with the Lyche.'

I am attempting to embed the video @Tpat591 :)

 
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Oh sheesh, I didn't think to add it here, since we covered it, but I did link back to this thread since there is some great information, particularly the information you posted.

I was inspired by that other video where a little ball of e-juice shot out, that was so funny! But for whatever reason, mine never spit, besides when I removed the atomizer a couple times with the full tank, and I didn't see very much on the easy upside down fix with videos, so figured maybe that would help some more people.

I am still using the NEBOX and it is leaking some, so I am going to re-read what you wrote about the vacuum, and o-rings sealing properly.

I did just start using an eVic AIO I received today. I decided to close the air holes on the airflow adjustment before inserting the atomizer coil, and so far it is working great, with no spitting, with the 0.5 ohm coil that came with it.

I hadn't thought of closing the airflow on this type of set up, but I wonder if that made a difference (thinking of the vacuum thing again), but wow, the Cubis Pro I got a couple days ago is a spitting monster! That was the first time I got legitimate hot splatters of e juice in my mouth.

It did clear out some, and I drove with it and it bounced around and spit some more (like big atomizer pops), so I switched, but I won't give up yet :)
Takes a lot of time to source vids for these threads. Had to bust your chops a bit on that one - LOL.

NOW I'M REALLY GOING TO BLOW YOUR MIND TO MAKE A POINT:

Let me elaborate on Nebox and tank leaking so we can all hopefully understand the wicking process & put all these issues in every one of these tanks (including Cupti Flooding) to bed once & for all.
  • Nebox leaks are caused by mostly by the O-ring at the top of the SSOCC coils. When Kanger downsized to the SSOCC from the OCC they used a much smaller thickness o-ring at the top of the coil body where it mates with the chimney tube (supposedly they corrected this later). This smaller o-ring is challenged in creating a proper seal, especially if the alignment of the coil & chimney tube is slightly off. It seals much better when wet which is why Nebox often leaks badly when juice gets low in tank as the dry o-ring will leak outside air into tank compromising vacuum & causing weight of the juice suspended in the tank to overtake surface tension of the juice suspended in the wicking and run into coil.
upload_2016-7-29_18-22-27.png
upload_2016-7-29_18-19-43.png

  • Kanger Original Square OCC coils had much thicker o-ring in the same position which allowed greater surface area contact & compression of the seal to avoid leaking. As result, using the OCC coils instead of the SSOCC coils cured a lot of the leaks.
  • Using certain 510 drip tip o-rings or the bottom o-ring from an old protank coil placed on the chimney tube at the crossbar bracket provides a fix by placing a second seal in this area sealing the top of the coil to the crossbar bracket when the coil is inserted into the tank. Some advocated using the Silicone cup top cap of the protank coil as well over the base o-ring when installed to help hold it in place (as the 510 o-rings often fell off into tank when coil was removed due to its larger diameter) and provide a flatter washer-like mating surface to make the seal to the coil body (but this involved trimming the cup rim edge down a bit as it was too deep). This will literally solve most coil leaking in Nebox.
upload_2016-7-5_19-27-30-png.575059

  • Nebox will still leak if charged in upright position due to thermal expansion of the juice in tank from the battery heating up while charging. This expansion of juice in the tank overtakes the surface tension of the juice suspended in the wicking causing juice to enter the coil & leak through. Charging Nebox on it side supposedly alleviates enough of the weight of juice pushing down on the surface tension of the juice in the wicking enough to keep the expansion from leaking in the coil. I usually just vape while charging Nebox to vape off this expansion so it doesn't really bother me except when I forget to. Some remove the drip tip & charge it inverted to avoid this thermal leak & all you will get is a drop or two from the chimney condensation running down.
At this point WE'RE In for a Penny in for a Pound so here it goes:
  • It is important to understand that the juice suspended in our tanks is only held there by the vacuum created in the tank being enough to offset the weight of the juice in that tank from overcoming the surface tension of the juice suspended in the wicking.
  • As we actively vape on a coil:
    • we create an area of lower pressure in the coil caused by the rapid airflow and the vacuum pressure we exert on the drip tip by pulling in the vapor
    • that low pressure allows more juice to be drawn into the wicking from the higher relative pressure of the tank overcoming surface tension of wicking juice and replenishes our wick
    • This is also aided by the increased temperature of the coil decreasing the surface tension of the juice suspended in the wicking.
  • When we stop our vaping pull and release the button:
    • The coil cools
    • Relative pressure in the coil returns to atmospheric pressure
    • Wicking is replenished with cooler juice from tank increasing surface tension of juice suspended in coil
    • lower relative pressure in tank keeps juice in tank from entering as the vacuum exceeds weight of juice in tank and surface tension of juice in coil.
    • Higher relative atmospheric pressure in our coil allows air to overcome surface tension of juice in the wicking and be drawn into the tanks lower relative pressure in the form of air bubbles until an equilibrium is created and air is not able to overcome surface tension of juice in the wicking any longer.
    • This new equilibrium has decreased the vacuum pressure in the tank reservoir to the point equal to the weight of the remaining juice in the tank allowing the surface tension of the juice suspended in the coil to keep any more juice from entering.
    • As the tank cools to room temperature the surface tension of juice in coil increases further as its viscosity increases to increase the barrier and further prevent more juice from entering
At Last the point:

Leaking in Nebox or any other standard bottom airflow tank is the same thing as flooding in Cupti, Cubis, Egrip II, Cubis Pro or any TFTA tank. It is not actually leaking juice or flooding. The problem is that...It is the leaking of air into the tank reservoir that causes this. This air leak compromises the Vacuum and allows the weight of the juice in the tank reservoir to overcome the surface tension of juice suspended in the coil allowing juice to enter as long as the leak is present at the same rate of the air leak.

Filling your tank obviously does the same until the point of equilibrium is re-established. Fortunately since the tank is full it takes a lot less to establish the equilibrium since there is less air present in the tank to expand to the vacuum pressure equilibrium point.

FIX THE AIR LEAK AND YOU WILL FIX THE PROBLEM.

No offense intended Martin, but the issue I have with your two videos inverting these units and wiping juice from the tube is that you are recommending a cure for the symptom, but not the disease. If you could somehow make a video that would take the nauseating diatribe above and try to convey this concept to your followers in a language normal people understand (without their eyes glazing over or them being insulted by their perception of your obvious condescension - something I am obviously incapable of) you will be doing your followers a much greater service.

I SINCERELY HOPE YOU WILL FORGIVE ME FOR THE LENGTHS I AM GOING TO HERE TO MAKE A POINT AND GET YOU TO THINK ABOUT HOW TO BEST CONVEY THIS CONCEPT TO YOUR FOLLOWERS. I AM NOT TRYING TO BE CONDESCENDING NOR OVERLY CRITICAL. I AM TRYING TO CONVEY A CONCEPT I BELIEVE VERY FEW PEOPLE TRULY UNDERSTAND TO SOMEONE WITH THE SKILLS, ABILITY, TECHNICAL KNOW HOW, DESIRE, MEDIA FORUM AND AUDIENCE TO MAKE THIS CONCEPT COMMON KNOWLEDGE.

Thanks for your help in spreading the word so we help keep people from accumulating drawers of unused "junk" that just leaks or gurgles as we have heard from so many thread participants and/or followers.

BTW: Cubis Pro as I understand it adds the top fill cap & therefore just another place it can leak air into the tank. Make sure it is properly sealed there as well as I have no doubt you now understand.

Sorry & thanks for listening, understanding my true intention and the help you provide to others in your efforts should you accept this challenge!

To all that have read this, I am truly sorry I felt the need to post this and even more sorry I cannot give you back that time.
 
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No offense intended Martin, but the issue I have with your two videos inverting these units and wiping juice from the tube is that you are recommending a cure for the symptom, but not the disease. If you could somehow make a video that would take the nauseating diatribe above and try to convey this concept to your followers in a language normal people understand (without their eyes glazing over or them being insulted by your obvious condescension - something I am obviously incapable of) you will be doing your followers a much greater service.

I SINCERELY HOPE YOU WILL FORGIVE ME FOR THE LENGTHS I AM GOING TO HERE TO MAKE A POINT AND GET YOU TO THINK ABOUT HOW TO BEST CONVEY THIS CONCEPT TO YOUR FOLLOWERS. I AM NOT TRYING TO BE CONDESCENDING NOR OVERLY CRITICAL. I AM TRYING TO CONVEY A CONCEPT I BELIEVE VERY FEW PEOPLE TRULY UNDERSTAND TO SOMEONE WITH THE SKILLS, ABILITY, TECHNICAL KNOW HOW, DESIRE, MEDIA FORUM AND AUDIENCE TO MAKE THIS CONCEPT COMMON KNOWLEDGE.

Thanks for your help in spreading the word so we help keep people from accumulating drawers of unused "junk" that just leaks or gurgles as we have heard from so many thread participants and/or followers.

Wow, that is an incredible explanation.

I will be honest, I am going to have to read that again, probably more than once.

Because you took the time to write such a concise explanation of a solution to a problem so many people are having, I will think about this, and how to best create a video, I'd be happy to do it, and hopefully I can do it justice.

I will have to try this on some of my mods, so I can speak from experience, as I posted those others after having some semblance of success with all those issues :)

I sense your frustration, but it is only out of wanting to help people, I don't take any of that personally :)

I don't have much of a following, but I can add my part, as there is clearly an issue that quite a few people are looking for answers to.

I actually created that second video on the Cupti after having had a number of people comment on our website that it had worked for them, after someone named Bruce made that suggestion, and then I looked and saw no other videos addressing it in a simple fashion like that, and I also assume people are going to give up quick, and are more inclined towards a simple solution (there is somewhat of a method to my madness, hehe), and so I created that simple one.

But I think that concept above is rather epic. You scientifically dissected some issues many have addressed, and of course you've seen the many other fixes, between shaking your tank, blowing through it upside down, et al.

But I think some will appreciate this. What I am initially thinking is that I will offer my simplified version, as I understand it, and then link to this thread for more expansive understandings of what is happening,for anyone who would like to understand it more.

Thanks for taking the time to write all that, I know people will appreciate it.
 
  • Nebox leaks are caused by mostly by the O-ring at the top of the SSOCC coils. When Kanger downsized to the SSOCC from the OCC they used a much smaller thickness o-ring at the top of the coil body where it mates with the chimney tube. This smaller o-ring is challenged in creating a proper seal, especially if the alignment of the coil & chimney tube is slightly off. It seals much better when wet which is why Nebox often leaks badly when juice gets low in tank as the dry o-ring will leak outside air into tank compromising vacuum & causing weight of the juice suspended in the tank to overtake surface tension of the juice suspended in the wicking and run into coil.
This kind of blew my mind. I hadn't thought of the level of the juice in the tank, but thinking back, it makes total sense!

This last time I used the NEBOX, I only filled it 1/4-1/3 or so.

Now how you figured the rest of this out, is some kind of genius stuff, IMO.
 
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This kind of blew my mind. I hadn't thought of the level of the juice in the tank, but thinking back, it makes total sense!

This last time I used the NEBOX, I only filled it 1/4-1/3 or so.

Now how you figured the rest of this out, is some kind of genius stuff, IMO.
I wouldn't call it that. It is just my personal take or expression of a greatly simplified explanation as to the basic physics of wicking to convey a concept. With the Nebox air leak at that o-ring seal surface tension equilibrium of the juice is greatly in play as well.

Add the variables of various wicking materials and diameters, juice feed hole orifice size, Wicking compression in juice wells & coil, applied wattage, temperature effects on juice viscosity, VG/PG ratio and things get much more complicated very quickly. That will make your head truly spin my friend!
 
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Tpat591

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Wow, that is an incredible explanation.

I will be honest, I am going to have to read that again, probably more than once.

Because you took the time to write such a concise explanation of a solution to a problem so many people are having, I will think about this, and how to best create a video, I'd be happy to do it, and hopefully I can do it justice.

I will have to try this on some of my mods, so I can speak from experience, as I posted those others after having some semblance of success with all those issues :)

I sense your frustration, but it is only out of wanting to help people, I don't take any of that personally :)

I don't have much of a following, but I can add my part, as there is clearly an issue that quite a few people are looking for answers to.

I actually created that second video on the Cupti after having had a number of people comment on our website that it had worked for them, after someone named Bruce made that suggestion, and then I looked and saw no other videos addressing it in a simple fashion like that, and I also assume people are going to give up quick, and are more inclined towards a simple solution (there is somewhat of a method to my madness, hehe), and so I created that simple one.

But I think that concept above is rather epic. You scientifically dissected some issues many have addressed, and of course you've seen the many other fixes, between shaking your tank, blowing through it upside down, et al.

But I think some will appreciate this. What I am initially thinking is that I will offer my simplified version, as I understand it, and then link to this thread for more expansive understandings of what is happening,for anyone who would like to understand it more.

Thanks for taking the time to write all that, I know people will appreciate it.
Concise explanation? Now that's funny!

Here is a simple & graphically Concise explanation now that I think about it:

upload_2016-7-30_6-14-35.png

  • A cheap plastic disposable e-juice dropper is easy to control, is something we are all familiar with, but if you think about it a bit, it is the exact same concept I explained at length in my post.
  • Pull one out, fill it, & hold it up in the air.
    • The dropper tube is your tanks reservoir.
    • The vacuum pressure is what holds the juice in the reservoir.
    • The restriction at the base is your wick.
    • The surface tension of the juice at the bottom orifice (wick) is the barrier that keeps the juice from draining out from the bottom & keeps air from rushing into your tank.
  • Squeeze out a drop or two & release. What happens?
    • Squeezing out that drop or two is equal to pulling on your mods coil while vaping off those two drops. When you squeezed out those drops, juice moved from the higher relative pressure in the tank and passed through the surface tension barrier at the wick to the lower relative pressure in the coil & was used.
    • Releasing is what happens at our wick after a pull. When you released, air moved from the higher atmospheric pressure of the coil and and passed through the surface tension barrier at the wick into the lower relative pressure of the tube until an equilibrium was re-established
  • Now If you poke a hole in the dropper bulb with a pin, What happens?....
    • That is your TFTA coil flooding or your bottom airflow tank leaking at the air holes
  • This isn't happening because of a bad coil in most cases. It's happening because there is air leaking into your tank and wiping up the drops off the counter isn't going to fix it. Only finding the hole and plugging it will.
Better?
 
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Tpat591

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I got my Cupti yesterday, was vaping on it all night and it was great!
Woke up today, filled it up with juice, and Boom, hot spit in my mouth. Tried all the tricks mentioned here without any luck. Not sure if i have to replace my 1-day old coil ir not, but i dont see a reason to do so.

Id very much appreciate ur help pls.
You tried turning unit upside down and drying out chimney tube with a paper towel to take most of it away. The rest should vape away quickly.

If you read the previous post you will know this happens because air is leaking into your tank. there are only 4 ways that can happen:
  • Opening a tank to fill or correct flooding also vents the vacuum and this is most often the actual cause of flooding until enough juice is vaped off to reestablish the vacuum in the tank. It is a good practice to always fill tank to line before closing tank as vacuum will be established more quickly. It is always good practice to make a concerted effort to take several hits immediately after filling to properly establish vacuum.
  • Top opening of tank has poor seal. This can happen if coil is not installed tightly onto chimney tube which may not allow top of tank to be fully tightened down for sealing or if the o-ring is damaged or malformed. Wet the o-ring with juice prior to installation.
  • O-ring at chimney tube where coil is installed is damaged or maintains a poor seal. The same corrective precautions apply. Wet the o-ring with juice prior to installation and fully tighten coil to chimney.
  • Bad coil wicking can allow air to leak through into the tank, causing coil to flood. This is rarely the cause, but it does occur if the cotton was misaligned during assembly. It should be noted that a bad coil wicking WILL ALWAYS FLOOD - not flood intermittently. Replacing coil should correct. Although it is not easy, coils can often be disassembled, rewicked, and reassembled.
 
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msh69

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Jul 25, 2016
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You tried turning unit upside down and drying out chimney tube with a paper towel to take most of it away. The rest should vape away quickly.
Yes i did, and unfortunately nothing changed.


If you read the previous post you will know this happens because air is leaking into your tank. there are only 4 ways that can happen:
  • Opening a tank to fill or correct flooding also vents the vacuum and this is most often the actual cause of flooding until enough juice is vaped off to reestablish the vacuum in the tank. It is a good practice to always fill tank to line before closing tank as vacuum will be established more quickly. It is always good practice to make a concerted effort to take several hits immediately after filling to properly establish vacuum.

I did read the posts above, very educational, thanks for ur effort.
But does this mean I will cause flooding everytime i refill? Im sure ur answer is "No" but how can avoid this at all everytime i refill?

  • Top opening of tank has poor seal. This can happen if coil is not installed tightly onto chimney tube which may not allow top of tank to be fully tightened down for sealing or if the o-ring is damaged or malformed. Wet the o-ring with juice prior to installation.
Its a new kit, 1 day old, doubt the o-rings are damaged already. And yes, the coil was tight to the end, i double checked it after the spitting occurred.


  • O-ring at chimney tube where coil is installed is damaged or maintains a poor seal. The same corrective precautions apply. Wet the o-ring with juice prior to installation and fully tighten coil to chimney.
Same as above, new kit, first day vaping was great, this should imply that the o-rings are ok,, doesnt it?



  • Bad coil wicking can allow air to leak through into the tank, causing coil to flood. This is rarely the cause, but it does occur if the cotton was misaligned during assembly. It should be noted that a bad coil wicking WILL ALWAYS FLOOD - not flood intermittently. Replacing coil should correct. Although it is not easy, coils can often be disassembled, rewicked, and reassembled.
The kit came with a coil already installed in it, and the supplier advised me to just fill the tank to the mark, put the chimney in and let rest for almost 5-min, which i did, vapes after that and it was great. Till this morning after my first re-fill, thats when the drama happened.


Now that im back from work, came home and took the coil out and re-did everything i did again, but took the watts up from 23 to 30. Baam! All good now, smooth flavor and no spitting.

It honestly bothered me that it happened, and I really want to know what i did weong to avoid this from happening again.

Thanks to everyone contributing to the great forum, rookies like me are really gaining a lot if info. Thanks guys,, cheers!
 

Tpat591

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Yes i did, and unfortunately nothing changed.




I did read the posts above, very educational, thanks for ur effort.
But does this mean I will cause flooding everytime i refill? Im sure ur answer is "No" but how can avoid this at all everytime i refill?


Its a new kit, 1 day old, doubt the o-rings are damaged already. And yes, the coil was tight to the end, i double checked it after the spitting occurred.



Same as above, new kit, first day vaping was great, this should imply that the o-rings are ok,, doesnt it?




The kit came with a coil already installed in it, and the supplier advised me to just fill the tank to the mark, put the chimney in and let rest for almost 5-min, which i did, vapes after that and it was great. Till this morning after my first re-fill, thats when the drama happened.


Now that im back from work, came home and took the coil out and re-did everything i did again, but took the watts up from 23 to 30. Baam! All good now, smooth flavor and no spitting.

It honestly bothered me that it happened, and I really want to know what i did weong to avoid this from happening again.

Thanks to everyone contributing to the great forum, rookies like me are really gaining a lot if info. Thanks guys,, cheers!
  • Seals actually seal 5x better if they are pre-lubricated with juice.
  • Try closing your airflow before reinserting coil & keep it closed until after coil reinserted.
  • Try holding your finger over mouthpiece during the action of inserting the coil stem into the tank. This will make juice less likely to rush in by holding the air trapped in coil where it is to prevent juice from rushing in to take its place.
  • After inserting coil & tightening down, immediately take a few hits to establish vacuum & minimize time where it is prone to leaking.
  • New coils will be more likely to flood. Once they are used through a few tanks they will be much less likely to flood as more sediments from your juice will be trapped in the wicking, increasing its relative density & making it a more effective barrier to flooding.
I had minor gurgling after filling on first two tanks only that vaped off quickly. No problems thereafter. Your experience will be same.

We usually actually cause the flooding by opening tank multiple times & not minimizing the time the coil is immersed prior to establishing the vacuum without realizing it in these newer top airflow systems as they are much less forgiving than the bottom airflow systems we are used to since the juice that enters the coil has no place to go.
 
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