Ive managed to get some nice coils but when mounting them to the 454 they get tweaked and lose shape.
To mount coils they're at a slant so legs have to be bent just right or the washer either tightens or loosens coil.
Has anyone mounted dual or more tension coils in the 454?
I'm curious what position the legs are in so coil doesn't unload or tighten them.
Since one screw holds every coil positive and the washer every coil negative that makes it a bit more touchy.
I can see why the velocity deck is more popular for dual coils for one can deal with one coil at a time.
Here's a video on coiling the 454V2 which has the exact same build deck. Hope this helps you out...
Excellent video Muz. Appreciate the drop. And do recommend verticals on this atty. The flavor and output are tops even as the a/f may seem minuscule. It's not at 7/64". But you really want to get blown away once you build this...any thick-walled (2mm) IGO-W cap fits it!
That means stuff like Cap-It-All Fauxgatti's and Halo's, slots and larger single holes. You think you got a good deal on 101. Stick one of these honey's on there and rock it like the big-boy 100$ legits. Oh baby, you want to talk about production from a moderate chamber device throw some Nextel in there with a wide Ø. Just remember I told you so.
First, let me emphasize…always support the bit in a vert orientation. Likewise, the end turn for any lead you're positioning or setting. This is the best way to make sure the integrity of the t.m.c. is preserved. Stability is hit or miss on a spaced coil with disordered strain. So throw it in the engine compartment. It is what it is. But we're maxing out the horsepower here.
So Rob, leave the coils on the bit or mandrel. This helps avoid distorting the coils. Accidents can happen. It's the easiest thing to bump a lead and spoil an end turn radius or separate it from the wind. While it's possible to try and match the strain by later tensioning the lead it's better to just avoid it. So support the end turns (particularly the one you're setting) with a finger tip. Good practice with any coil to preserve the symmetry you carefully crafted.
I like to go high on 3-post decks and some may have to here with a big space coil or large wire t.m.c. If so prefer to tie down at the pos screw rather than the post hole. Use a spacer to simplify the following and prevent leads from slipping as you tighten up. Hate when that happens as you may skew the coil or mangle an end turn.
For the screw mount, locate the precise distance or offset of the coil from the center post for one coil, put a bend in the wire around the post screw and drop a spacer on it. To ensure the bends are flush with the screw and equidistant from the post use a known Ø bit or screwdriver (make a T of the bit holding the screw and this bit between it and the center post) as you wrap the bend around the c/p screw. Repeat process for the opposing positive.
In other words, you're making a hook out of each pos lead which you'll then set as you separate both coils on their respective bits. Again, support the uppermost end turn as you do so.
You can achieve the exact set for both sides of the pos leads by lightly pulling on the coils to ensure the bends you previously made are flush with the screw as you tighten the neg lead at the ring. That is, with the bit in the coil you pull slightly away from the c/p. This top lead is straight out horizontal and just made taught. You are not trying to add any greater tension than the original wind. But this frequently removes any slight separation of the turn exit that may have been introduced.
Now the neg as per the video is made simple as you are going to very lightly repeat the effort to make the lead taught as with the topmost pos lead. But bring it down to the capture ring while supporting the lowermost lead. So again, the pull of the lead under the ring is just to make the lead taught to the end turn. You will see about some of the best set symmetry you've ever likely to experience with this approach and on this particular device. Rock solid termination.
On the 454 you can drop in 7/7-8/8 24 or 25 AWG (full wrap) for outstanding results using the center post holes in the ~.3Ω and up range. Haven't had to delve to 23-24 for everyday use with this as output is grand at this level with excellent ramp up. But with a t.m.c. this will seem like you're vaping a full ohm up due to the higher vaporization rate. Airflow is directed at about the lower half of the coil and is ideal. I've run large singles, duals, barrels and quads in these with every kind of wick and it's superb. I wouldn't hesitate to run 22AWG in this atty but very satisfying on a box at 45W+ with the above.
@Kelt, know it's early on and you haven't wound one yet but hang on and we'll try and give you a hand.
To all, the pin vise is the ideal tool for producing a reference standard t.m.c. that is
unique to you. The best means to set the benchmark both visually and through training muscle memory as to where
adhesion occurs for a given guage. Then it's a lot easier with other tools and approaches.
Best of luck.
p.s. For ref, a 25W Nextel burn in of
25x2 9/8 2.82mm=0.4985Ω from earlier in this thread
Tensioned Micro Coils. The next step. | Page 67 | E-Cigarette Forum | Post #1323.
