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MacTechVpr

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Thank you for the heads up on the Glass Head Mini Sub x Glass tank, MacTechVpr. Only has the black accent glass left, but works for me. What a treat! :)

Just got mine in from CSV and I think you'll be pleased. These are definitely a flavor vape tank and the presentation is unique. They come in the original faux leather style Protank case with a dual-slot Subtank Mini base and vertical coil. Straight up Idon't know if these are authentic but the kit and fit looks quality and I'm lookin' forward to the vape.

Good luck! :)
 

MacTechVpr

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Superb package. Love the Trinity glass. Every one I've tried. But can I tell ya? The factory coils .... that came with this. Just do not see what Kanger was thinking with verticals. They do concentrate a density in the reduced chamber of the OCC. A density of very diffuse dry vape, even for this fine tank running on my best low-pwr batt, an authentic Steam Monkey ZNA-30. Was just looking forward with modest expectation. Ruined my bestest fav juice (which I'm not gonna reveal here). Suffice it to say I'm nurturing my stash. I'll have to break open another vert just to satisfy my unending skepticism but I've gotta stop and wind a custom t.m.c. OCC for this combo. CYA.

Good luck. :)
 

choochoogranny

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Haven't used the Kanger OCC coils in a while since I find it easier and less problems using the Aspire "Replacement" BVC's in the Subtank mini. I save the casings.

I do rebuild those BVC's by having hubby drill out two holes (opposite each other) with a 5/64 drill bit. Also have him step drill out the top so the metal "lip" is gone and smooth. The BVC's I rebuild are the old ones with the small holes. Using the 30 gauge Kanthal, I space the coil to 1.5 to 1.8 ohms (7 wraps), insert coil from top, capture through drilled holes with heavy duty pin, finish off with insulator and pin insert. Take out heavy duty pin and wick through those drilled holes with cellu cotton (rayon) leaving 3/8" fluffy bunny tails on either side.

I'm very much a Tootler and don't go much higher than 9-10 watts or 3.8-4 volts, so the above "modding" suits me as well as using a rebuilt Protank 2 coil. The modded Aspire Replacement BVC can also be used the Subtank nano and the Toptank.

I chain vape and go through around 15 ml per day, so I dry burn and clean with those tiny round GUM dental brushes for between your teeth about every other day. Rewick and start afresh. Takes about 5 minutes. Do a recoil session of 6 casings every month. Takes an hour.....I'm old, shaky and half blind. :p I haven't broken into my second 5 pack of coils yet. It's been a year. :D
 

choochoogranny

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CSV called me last night re the Trinity Glass, told me they broke the two black accented ones I ordered and would I like the clear or a refund. Since I wanted the clear in the first place, I chose that option; and told Donna of CSV that they were not listed on their web site. Now I notice they have none listed.
 

schatz

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Superb package. Love the Trinity glass. Every one I've tried. But can I tell ya? The factory coils .... that came with this. Just do not see what Kanger was thinking with verticals. They do concentrate a density in the reduced chamber of the OCC. A density of very diffuse dry vape, even for this fine tank running on my best low-pwr batt, an authentic Steam Monkey ZNA-30. Was just looking forward with modest expectation. Ruined my bestest fav juice (which I'm not gonna reveal here). Suffice it to say I'm nurturing my stash. I'll have to break open another vert just to satisfy my unending skepticism but I've gotta stop and wind a custom t.m.c. OCC for this combo. CYA.

Good luck. :)
Hey Mac, what guage kanthal are you using to rebuild the OCC heads and how many wraps? Just curious because I have yet to rebuild a satisfactory OCC head and would like to achieve this. I have been trying 28 and 26 gauge and they are not as good as the rebuildable heads. Thanks for any advice you can give.
 

MacTechVpr

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Haven't used the Kanger OCC coils in a while since I find it easier and less problems using the Aspire "Replacement" BVC's in the Subtank mini. I save the casings.

I do rebuild those BVC's by having hubby drill out two holes (opposite each other) with a 5/64 drill bit. Also have him step drill out the top so the metal "lip" is gone and smooth. The BVC's I rebuild are the old ones with the small holes. Using the 30 gauge Kanthal, I space the coil to 1.5 to 1.8 ohms (7 wraps), insert coil from top, capture through drilled holes with heavy duty pin, finish off with insulator and pin insert. Take out heavy duty pin and wick through those drilled holes with cellu cotton (rayon) leaving 3/8" fluffy bunny tails on either side.

I'm very much a Tootler and don't go much higher than 9-10 watts or 3.8-4 volts, so the above "modding" suits me as well as using a rebuilt Protank 2 coil. The modded Aspire Replacement BVC can also be used the Subtank nano and the Toptank.

I chain vape and go through around 15 ml per day, so I dry burn and clean with those tiny round GUM dental brushes for between your teeth about every other day. Rewick and start afresh. Takes about 5 minutes. Do a recoil session of 6 casings every month. Takes an hour.....I'm old, shaky and half blind. :p I haven't broken into my second 5 pack of coils yet. It's been a year. :D

Impressive. Only thing I could suggest is to bump up to 29 AWG. A very slight increase in ramp up time outweighed by the increase in surface area. With a tad more power, better output. But you can multiply the overall density with a tensioned micro by at least 20%. I've got motor issues and I can do it. Plus the blue is pretty.

:D Good luck.
 

MacTechVpr

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Hey Mac, what guage kanthal are you using to rebuild the OCC heads and how many wraps? Just curious because I have yet to rebuild a satisfactory OCC head and would like to achieve this. I have been trying 28 and 26 gauge and they are not as good as the rebuildable heads. Thanks for any advice you can give.

The twisted lead center post three-lead wind is the one I most commonly use in the OCC. It has better airflow than the RBA and better handles the increased wire capacity and size of these builds…

Protank MicroCoil Discussion!! | Page 153 | Post #3042

See pic's at the bottom of the post for examples of the 3-wire OCC and twisted lead parallel which also flies on the RBA.

Both require winding as a t.m.c. to remain stable. Particularly the parallel. But the three post can be hand or coiler wound. Just won't exhibit the same temp or output. The 3-wire is not counter-wound for the OCC. Use the same, say a right-hand wind, and there is a slight separation between the coils. Pictured above is a counter wind. It looks and functions like a single t.m.c. but they have a higher tendency to distort as you can throw off the strain balance when you tension the central lead. Also for the 3-wire, I split the twisted main lead just at the pin so that it can fit as flush as possible. Trying to terminate the twisted is difficult and extends the pin connection too far. Also it's difficult to cut it so that it doesn't protrude. The three wire is very stable and powerful. Perhaps the most powerful, efficient and stable wind I've ever done for any device.

Do a search on the PT Micro thread for twisted lead center post or parallel for more details. Use 27-29 AWG for these winds in OCC or RBA depending on your target resistance. There are some steam-engine links on the preceding thread for reference. If not your temp, let me know what you're lookin' for.

But most of all — go for it!

Good luck. :)

 
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choochoogranny

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Just got mine in from CSV and I think you'll be pleased. These are definitely a flavor vape tank and the presentation is unique. They come in the original faux leather style Protank case with a dual-slot Subtank Mini base and vertical coil. Straight up Idon't know if these are authentic but the kit and fit looks quality and I'm lookin' forward to the vape.

Good luck! :)

By gum and by golly, MacTechVpr, got to thank you again! Got my Trinity glass and base in today and as pleased as punch with this purchase. Your description of what you get in the package is spot on and am using this very minute with my own modded Aspire BVC. It's so nice to not have to worry about which juice to put in. Thank you! :thumbs:
 

Vinnybagodoughnuts

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Absolutely awesome!! While mine did have a few scratches in the glass. For 8.00$ shipped who am I to complain? Running my extra RBA section on it and can't believe how good the flavor is! I am also falling in love with the molded drip tip.It is very comfortable! Thanks again Mac! You are my hero!:):cool::banana:
 

Cheallaigh

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Aug 13, 2016
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Georgian Bay, Ontario
Buy The Kanger Subtank Replacement RBA Deck at RedJuice.co.uk v1

I am using v4? with the higher smaller holes...kbox 75w, TTmini, .5ohm 28 kanthal Clapton/bacon, 5/2mm 25-35w 80/20 vg/pg, no leaks, no dry hits.. well until I chain vape too much and the juice gets way too thin and hot. the higher holes aren't an issue and I can pretty much empty the tank if I have to, I'm usually refilling sooner.

and yes I read the entire thread, since the builds would be pretty much the same... now to start with the pro tank 4 dual rba...
 
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JustWondering1

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Aug 29, 2015
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This must be my day for weird tank issues. I would appreciate your wisdom, hints, tips and advice on my STM issue of the moment.

I am a MTL vaper and prefer restricted airflow. I vape generally between 10 - 13 or so watts, and I primarily use juice that has a minimum of 50% pg.

I've got an STM that came with a red colored glass tank that isn't working properly. When I press on the button to take a hit, I always hear a sizzling sound that means the mod is firing. (That's not the problem.) I can draw on it normally, and it seems to give me the usual amount of vapor, but when I release the button, the sizzling sound continues for a bit longer than it should after I quit pushing the button. None of my other STMs does this. I've also noticed for the past couple of days that sometimes the juice in this tank tastes extra harsh, if I am vaping it often, but if I sit it down for a bit, vape something else and then, go back to it later, it will taste good again.

At first, I decided that the issue must be with the mod, that perhaps some juice seeped into the crevices in the mod and was causing the button to stay depressed a bit after I had taken my finger off the button. I tried to fix this by turning off the mod, dipping a q-tip in vodka, and rubbing it over the fire button when depressed. I then waited 20 minutes to allow the vodka to evaporate, turned it back on and tried it again, but there was no change. I tried this a few times until I decided I should just stop using that mod. I put the tank on another mod and noticed that it started doing the same thing again, the sizzling after the fire button has been released. I realized then, my problem has to be with the tank, not with the mod.

Have any of you ever experienced this, and do any of you have any idea how I can solve this problem? Is this dangerous?
 
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