BOTTOM FEEDERS= a place for everything modified and/or custom made
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bravo Mandro! That's beautiful! How did you make the frame?
Thank you
I took a photo of all the parts before I assembled it. The Frame is made from aluminium box section with various aluminium profiles used to make the other parts.
So i got this crazy idea, i wanna make this happen, but with limited budget, limited parts on hand (id like to pirate some parts from an old tube mech)and limited tools (i do have a drill press, access to tap and dye, and a soldering iron )its gonna be a p.i.t.a. heres my concept (series 26650, and a 120ml mech squonker)
I know its pretty large as squonkers go (ok, it HUGE as squonkers go.....) but i want simple, i can build bigger coils to keep ohms up, lots more power than i would ever need. any tips tricks pointers are appreciated.i think i can form a lot of what im looking for with jb weld steel stick putty (battery sled, bottle sled) , and i figure i can make contacts from sheet copper.i know im gonna have to get bottle tops and tubing (what kind of tubing ? )
I know its pretty large as squonkers go (ok, it HUGE as squonkers go.....) but i want simple, i can build bigger coils to keep ohms up, lots more power than i would ever need. any tips tricks pointers are appreciated.i think i can form a lot of what im looking for with jb weld steel stick putty (battery sled, bottle sled) , and i figure i can make contacts from sheet copper.i know im gonna have to get bottle tops and tubing (what kind of tubing ? )
I like this tubing which Turbocad6 introduced me to:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000...ing,+1/16"ID,+3/16"OD,+1/16"+Wall,+25'+Length
I would have a concern about flat tops in series as shown in your pic. Make sure that if the wrap was to get a bad spot at the top that the positive terminal and negative case of the lower battery can't possibly both touch the bottom of the upper one causing a direct short.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000...ing,+1/16"ID,+3/16"OD,+1/16"+Wall,+25'+Length
I would have a concern about flat tops in series as shown in your pic. Make sure that if the wrap was to get a bad spot at the top that the positive terminal and negative case of the lower battery can't possibly both touch the bottom of the upper one causing a direct short.
Thanks for the tube tip. and good point about the short with flat tops.im not dead set on series, but i figure series stacked will be easier than stacking for parallels , but i might have enough room in the box to do it....... great, now i gotta make a wiring plan for parallel wiring or parallel contacts
Series
Parallel
Series i can do with sheet copper, paralell will have to be wired. sorry for the crayon:/
Parallel
Series i can do with sheet copper, paralell will have to be wired. sorry for the crayon:/
If you can solder well then it would be pretty easy to cut out 2 discs From copper sheet and solder them to the positive nipples, effectively making them into button tops. Use flux, tin the battery nipple and the disc separately, then join them, but only if you really know how to solder well enough to be able to get in and out within a few seconds. Cells like this are soldered to all the time in building packs so it's not reckless as long as you know how to solder well...
Yeah, i was hoping to keep soldering to a minimum because my soldering skills are on larger stuff (pipes)
Figured it's about time for me to build my own box, does anyone have any experience with the Floris enclosures, particularly the little orca?
I 3D printed with translucent PETG filament a 20700 mod which is derived from Pdib's Lil Pinch design. (With Pdib's blessing and he made the contacts etc. to my modified specs) I gave it stronger magnets, 1/2 rings on the bottom of the cap for better stability since the plastic has more elasticity than wood, and a slot in the battery tube bottom to prevent the negative contact from compressing when the mod is dropped. The vertical bands are a color difference due to not printing solid but with crosshatch infill when using translucent filament. I just finished it today so I do not know yet how the 4000 Mah 20700 will compare to 3000 Mah 18650 in vape time in an unregulated mod.
Secret squonker. Not pretty but very functional.
Coppervape BF Split RDTA came in last week, and I think I found the perfect atty for the windowless squonker conversion of iStick 100. For those who don't know, when you squonk the Split you are refilling the ~1.5 ml tank, so squonking is infrequent, about six times only for each full bottle of juice. Other functional benefits are being able to see when you are running low in the tank, and getting the consistent hit of an RDTA rather than the ups and downs of a typical BF RDA.
Not pretty but very functional.Coppervape BF Split RDTA came in last week, and I think I found the perfect atty for the windowless squonker conversion of iStick 100. For those who don't know, when you squonk the Split you are refilling the ~1.5 ml tank, so squonking is infrequent, about six times only for each full bottle of juice. Other functional benefits are being able to see when you are running low in the tank, and getting the consistent hit of an RDTA rather than the ups and downs of a typical BF RDA.
Been vaping the Coppervape bottom feed Split RDTA (right) nonstop since I got it. I've taken to the concept so much that last night I converted my Avocado 22 to bottom feed. Comparing the two with the same single coil build and juice, I have to say I like the Split vape a bit better, an advantage of the smaller chamber I assume. The Avocado vapes great as always though, and I'm glad to have a second BF RDTA. Now I'm itching to convert a Corolla 1.5 RDTA (single coil, bottom central air) to bottom feed. Itching but not yet scratching.
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