GP Series by VapourArt - Official Thread for GP Spheroid, GP PAPS, X, GP Piccolo, GP SnP and more - Part 3

[perseas]

Thanks for your response. Your great customer service makes me want to buy more of your products.

I took your advice on the chamber cap and it worked exactly as you described. It now fits perfectly and stays in place when I remove the tank.

An unfortunate effect in troubleshooting is that you often create new problems in trying to solve the one you have. I tried the vertical build (used Kanthal since I don't have any nichrome) and things were going well. But somehow in the wicking process, my resistance went from 1.0 to .2 ohms. I now find that ANY build shows barely measurable resistance. Obviously I have a problem elsewhere and once again have completely dissembled the tank to find it.

A schematic of the parts and their assembly would help a lot, but I have not been able to find one. I'm using brief glimpses from Qorax's videos to make sure I don't have something assembled incorrectly.

So, for the time being, I will be working on that resistance problem. Thanks to everyone who offered help!

Check your posts for trapped snippets, shreds, bits of wire, (ok not nicks ) from your coils. GP Heron is a bigger GP Spheroid and both have the same positive posts and similar decks, so you may use the following video guide references for the correct assembling:

 

[classwife]

Check your posts for trapped nicks from your coils

Yeppers, I bet he has a straggler hiding somewhere

 

[h00ligan]

I want to give you guys a small heads up. I dont think this has been covered

If you noticed that you have a fluctuating resistance with the GP dripper, if you notice that different devices are telling you it's not attached or there's a short or it bounces down to .05 then up to .5 etc., take a look where the positive post connects the small peak insulator has enough room for clippings or small portions of coil legs to drop down in there. And if it bridges from the positive post inside the insulator to the main body, it is a short and it's something you need to be very careful with.

The easiest solution is to leave your coil legs long enough to hold when you clip. And don't do the twist and tug method.

Dont assume when you lift up the screws your coil is in one piece. Because of the angled bottom it can sever small portions of the keg which can travel down and get stuck between the positive post foot and the main body. After removing the coil inspect that small area for debris or rinse the atomizer. Because the insulator does not fill the entire lower area there is a space for shorts to happen as a result of legs falling down there.

This is something I ran into yesterday and I scratched my head for quite a while. I put three or four builds in there trying to figure out what I was doing wrong and inspected the mod (regulated) and then it dawned on me that the positive post either maybe touching or something going on there when I remove that I found 2, 3 mm pieces of stainless steel that were bridging from the positive post to the main floor of the atomizer.

This is totally my fault as I broke off one coil in a dual coil set up and when I then opened the screws the two remaining legs fell down to the floor. Its also my fault for not inspecting properly. Or building on a resistance meter. That said had i done this on a mech mod probably id have been in for at least a startling moment.

I don't think this is a big deal but it is something that may arise from time to time for some. As is screwing f the positive post in at a wrong angle and making a short there

For most people buying drippers or bf atomizers they're going to know about this sort of thing but given it had me scratching my head for 20 mins i figured id relay the open area around the positive leg can bridge over if the perfect storm
Of user error is reached.

My stupidity - your information

 

[h00ligan]

Thanks for your response. Your great customer service makes me want to buy more of your products.

I took your advice on the chamber cap and it worked exactly as you described. It now fits perfectly and stays in place when I remove the tank.

An unfortunate effect in troubleshooting is that you often create new problems in trying to solve the one you have. I tried the vertical build (used Kanthal since I don't have any nichrome) and things were going well. But somehow in the wicking process, my resistance went from 1.0 to .2 ohms. I now find that ANY build shows barely measurable resistance. Obviously I have a problem elsewhere and once again have completely dissembled the tank to find it.

A schematic of the parts and their assembly would help a lot, but I have not been able to find one. I'm using brief glimpses from Qorax's videos to make sure I don't have something assembled incorrectly.

So, for the time being, I will be working on that resistance problem. Thanks to everyone who offered help!

I can help you with this. And they have w video on their site for assembly. Do you have the heron v2 only using 510?

I'm sorry
Im sorry i loaded back a page in tapatalk and nothin loads quickly on this crap
Wifi. didn't realize @perseus OF COURSE already posted this. . Ill leave the post now but he covered it.


-----/

Look at their vimeo account here



Or tips and trixks

Tips & Tricks | vapourart.com

Look at the reference video and jf there isn't one for the heron v2 the spheroid v4 assembles the same way except the chamber cap. I believe they didn't make a heron v2 as the spheroid is so close. Or maybe he v1 /1.5 is close. Not sure. But the spheroid video is literally one part different

 

[cliffy15]

hmm... that Heron v2 afr is intriguing. I'll have to get me one of those. perfect excuse to order another Teflon tip too!

Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

 

[Zbeast08]

Hello to all!! It's been awhile and was just catching up a bit!! I have been looking at the dripper and I have to have one!! Hope everyone is doing well!!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[h00ligan]

hmm... that Heron v2 afr is intriguing. I'll have to get me one of those. perfect excuse to order another Teflon tip too!

Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

As someone who has been using a diy reducer since day two. To me it changes the practically every characteristic of the Vape for the positive when they being MTL. Obviously for direct lung or restricted long it's not going to work. But for MTL a reducer in there adds density increases flavor and generally makes the Vape so much more satisfying. The device with AFR to me is the best device I own.period.

I found overall that anything greater than 2 mm as an exit diameter is too much if your Vaping MTL

I now reduce any device iver 2mm if possible (has to be round and preferably a whole number

 

[GeekyGeezer]

Look at the reference video and jf there isn't one for the heron v2 the spheroid v4 assembles the same way except the chamber cap. I believe they didn't make a heron v2 as the spheroid is so close. Or maybe he v1 /1.5 is close. Not sure. But the spheroid video is literally one part different

Thanks for all the help.

I'm back in business, cautiously optimistic. I'll feel a lot better if my first tank refill works as designed.

The assembly videos were a great help. I was assembling the parts according to my memory of how they came apart, along with what looked logical. The video eliminated the possibility that I had something out of order.

I'm pretty sure my problem with resistance was due to my overtightening of the 510 screw. I was in the habit of doing this as my other attys are non-adjustable. Since the peek insulator seems to be a bit "opened up" I'm thinking I had the head of the screw sunken into the insulator and it wasn't making good contact with the mods. I didn't use a straight edge to check but it looked like the screw head was lower than the 510 threads. At any rate, I backed it out a bit and my resistance is stable.

I still got leaking from the AFC hole but it was more of a slight weep rather than the river I had before. After a few hours, it seems to have finally sealed itself.

I started to order some fluff from the Vapour Art site but then I realized that it would be crazy to pay international shipping twice since I am going to get the restrictor as soon as it is released. Among the options I have (repeating my current build, using the restrictor, and using fluff) I'm fairly confident that I can get this thing working consistently. If I can get two or three builds in a row, I have no doubt that the Heron will be a real pleasure for years to come.

And once again, thanks to all who spent their time to offer help. This is a very impressive forum.

 

[perseas]

Thanks for all the help.

I'm back in business, cautiously optimistic. I'll feel a lot better if my first tank refill works as designed.

The assembly videos were a great help. I was assembling the parts according to my memory of how they came apart, along with what looked logical. The video eliminated the possibility that I had something out of order.

I'm pretty sure my problem with resistance was due to my overtightening of the 510 screw. I was in the habit of doing this as my other attys are non-adjustable. Since the peek insulator seems to be a bit "opened up" I'm thinking I had the head of the screw sunken into the insulator and it wasn't making good contact with the mods. I didn't use a straight edge to check but it looked like the screw head was lower than the 510 threads. At any rate, I backed it out a bit and my resistance is stable.

I still got leaking from the AFC hole but it was more of a slight weep rather than the river I had before. After a few hours, it seems to have finally sealed itself.

I started to order some fluff from the Vapour Art site but then I realized that it would be crazy to pay international shipping twice since I am going to get the restrictor as soon as it is released. Among the options I have (repeating my current build, using the restrictor, and using fluff) I'm fairly confident that I can get this thing working consistently. If I can get two or three builds in a row, I have no doubt that the Heron will be a real pleasure for years to come.

And once again, thanks to all who spent their time to offer help. This is a very impressive forum.

Thank you very much for the feedback.
We have observed many times the tendency to over-tighten the adjustable 510 pin to the point of no contact. As you correctly pointed out, this comes as a habit from atomizers with non adjustable 510 pin. Nevertheless, the pin must protrude at least 0,5 mm, because many mods are out of specs regarding the depth of their 510 connection. We expect to have the Heron AFC inserts ready in 1-2 weeks maximum, maybe sooner.

 

[h00ligan]

 

[h00ligan]

Single coil I find either cap vapes better without the afr for me. I immediately put them in and just today tried without and i should have had faith.

The afr are better for me maybe with dual but gp did a great job making this work for mtl without the inserts.

I get better density manupulating air flow with the cap for sure with the flavor cap maybe with he dusl cap - again for single coil

I also feel this is a result if the fact i use predominantly 28/36 clapton wire. This clapton is tiny but its still got a lot more surface area than regular wire (Mmmmm. Flavor) while eliminating all the negatives if traditional clapton used in ling hit applications. so i think the choke point being outside sllows the air tondistribute across a wider area- mixed with the short cap and tiny chamber and you need that extra flow area to mix in


I'm probably not being very clear in my mind I understand the mechanics of why this is happening versus every other device I own and it boils down to capsize coil type pants area for airflow. This is not going to be a standard across most devices even with the ...... V2 which has a tiny chamber the reducer in there helps me greatly with density so I have to think the way tue air is turned has impact too.

A couple of finer points to note about the GP dripper for me or the very slight indents where your wicks should rest in bottom feet mode. Remember when using this device for bottom feed the last week the better and GP has basically drawing a diagram of where to put it. The design and the rounding of everything definitely has an impact on how smooth the Vape is as well as the consistency of the vapor. And finally the design of the integrated drip tip while it may be wide and feel for many MTL vapors in practice with the right coil and air configuration it is an extremely comfortable Vape when set up properly.

Just some thoughts especially given my surprise that I was getting a better quality of vapor without the AFR which is an absolute shock or is anybody free wanting this thread knows im all about afr.


amendment here you have to build the coil as low as possible to the Airhole in order for the above to be true

For those who build high off the sir hole and vape mtl - try lowering the coil - do make sure it doesn't short please


Man i love this dripper!!

 

[h00ligan]

MTL build on a mech. True story.

And testing a matchy matchy drip tip combo made me think of @qorax saying it. Lol.


That's the last of it for me I hope some of my stuff was helpful if I come across anything else of value I'll post it but I'll stop polluting the thread now with pictures and such I hope you all have a wonderful weekend

 

[h00ligan]

I just went the other way and build a very high resistance low-power build and I have to say. The overall diversity of this piece. The GP dripper works well for single coil at 13 W or works well for dual Clapton coils at 75 W and .3 homes it's just really remarkable that GP done such a good job making a one-size-fits-all in an industry that has failed this task so frequently and he was designers feel that large airflow can just be close down for MTL it's refreshing to have a truly versatile device and if the HERON V3 is anywhere near this first of all it's going to set the bar for tank based systems as well

If anyone buys this RDA and feels they cannot use it because it doesn't suit their style the only thing I can say is to spend time with different bills because your build will completely dictate what this device is good at

 

[calecamo]

Just received my piccoloid. It's gorgeous! Thank you again


Sent from mTalk

 

[h00ligan]

Cleaned up ye old 4nine for the 520 heron.

The new Ultem short tip fits aesthetically so well to blend the different colors and really matches up well with brass. Ill have to get s shot outdoors to really represent how good w match it is as indoor directional lighting doesn't relay that. The dimensions on paper or really misleading to how it feels and how it develops and I'm not sure exactly why that is because most wide or it's pretty noticeable but with this one I think it has to do with the wall thickness and the way that they flared the lip or I should say rolled the lip.

Its tough to use another manufacturer mech after the gp v4 switch. I love some designs from others but i am going to have to buy a few switches i think. I don't use mechs which have to be locked for pocket. Too much hassle. If they're alone in s pocket and won't fire 99.9% of situations. Good enough


This setup needs an Ultem tank sometimes i think.

 

[h00ligan]

Split pancake wicking tutorial to alternate post
---/
@perseus you sent longer 510 screws out to customers wftee the rekease if the spheroid v4 right? So if i need one the longer ones are for sake and in the full Spares kit?

I just want to confirm theres now a longer screw / pin as 510 spheroid i have - lest that isn't the issue and order and wait for a longer one in case its something else.

 

[perseas]

Yes, every GP Spheroid v4 comes with a longer 510 pin since that time. Thank you for the new build. You can put photos in your post, it would be a good idea to have it as a pictorial for the GP Spheroid.

 

[MsLoud]

My work buddies...

 

[qorax]

My work buddies...

Mine too

Nice pic there ma'am!

 

[qorax]

Cleaned up ye old 4nine for the 520 heron.

The new Ultem short tip fits aesthetically so well to blend the different colors and really matches up well with brass. Ill have to get s shot outdoors to really represent how good w match it is as indoor directional lighting doesn't relay that. The dimensions on paper or really misleading to how it feels and how it develops and I'm not sure exactly why that is because most wide or it's pretty noticeable but with this one I think it has to do with the wall thickness and the way that they flared the lip or I should say rolled the lip.

Its tough to use another manufacturer mech after the gp v4 switch. I love some designs from others but i am going to have to buy a few switches i think. I don't use mechs which have to be locked for pocket. Too much hassle. If they're alone in s pocket and won't fire 99.9% of situations. Good enough


This setup needs an Ultem tank sometimes i think.

Lookin' very nice my friend!