I had a Hadaly, way too tight for me. Kinda liked it actually, but just couldn't use it much.
newbie RDA advice
- Thread starter frosc
- Start date
- th_trl_thread_readers 0
- Status
I had a Hadaly, way too tight for me. Kinda liked it actually, but just couldn't use it much.
Yeah... If the Hadaly was Too Tight for you, so would be the NarDa.
They have Similar draws.
thanks for all the insights guys!
I was skeptical about clones because I expect the quality is far below authentic, but with THAT much price difference and on-par/just slightly below quality than the authentic, I stand corrected
gonna check out the NarDa!
I was skeptical about clones because I expect the quality is far below authentic, but with THAT much price difference and on-par/just slightly below quality than the authentic, I stand corrected
gonna check out the NarDa!
thanks for all the insights guys!
I was skeptical about clones because I expect the quality is far below authentic, but with THAT much price difference and on-par/just slightly below quality than the authentic, I stand corrected
gonna check out the NarDa!
I have Both of the rda's I linked to. And the Quality of Both of them is Fine. No Complaints.
The Only real Knock on the NarDa that I have heard of is if you use a Really Thick, multi-wire coil. It can be Hard to Trap the Wire under the Screw Head.
So if you use Thick, Multi-Wire coils, maybe the Hadaly is better choice.
I wasn't trying to convince you to use clones.thanks for all the insights guys!
I was skeptical about clones because I expect the quality is far below authentic, but with THAT much price difference and on-par/just slightly below quality than the authentic, I stand corrected
gonna check out the NarDa!
I was just trying to share my experience that authentic attys are much higher quality than clones
I am of the opinion that many clones are authentic but have small blemishes they can't sell as authentic so they srlle to FT, 3f, efun, etc.
Same here. No Problems with either.
I did 24ga once just to see how it work. Worked OK. I just don't like 24ga because of the Long Ramp-Up/Ramp-Down times.
The slow ramp up time is why i stopped using 25 gauge.
26 gaughe is nice and responsive, and I don't like wire thinner than 28.
Why i onlyy uds two wire gauges.
I do All my own BF Conversations.
But that is Another Extremely Cool thing about those 2 RDA's I linked to. They BOTH come with BF Pins as well as Solid Pins!
Really! Then I REALLY have to get one of them. And a squonker.
Welcome and glad you joined. I break down RDA's into 4 basic categories. Cloud (sub-ohm) duel/single coil machines and flavor (non sub -ohm ) duel/single coil machines. I too am after flavor first (clouds not so much). I build only single coils, I'm not fond of re dripping, so I vape 2 post Magmas and 3 post Origen V1 and V3 RDA's, all are deep well and will last an hour before re dripping (at ~1.8 ohms and 6-7w).hey guys, been vaping for a month, wanted to expand my vaping "knowledge" by trying an RDA
Currently i have a serpent mini RTA, the flavor and vapor production is on point, as a flavor chaser, will the flavor production be much different than the serpent mini?
Also, what to look in a "good" RDA?
My local vape shop currently has an OBS Cheetah and Limitless RDA in stock (well, there were others, but I can only remember these 2
thanks!
Could take a look at :
2. Don’t Become Obsessed with the Idea of Sub-Ohming
Re: 6 Quick & Useful Vaping Tips for Beginners
"will the flavor production be much different than the serpent mini?" In general, RDA's should be on the whole more favorable if both devices are properly set up, YMMV.
I have an Ice Cube RDA that I like a lot, it is a simple small & cheap but works as well as any of the others I have. I wouldn't go limitless as I've 2 pluses which I just can't seem to get to perform up to scratch. I suspect the problem relates to its whimpy airflow design. I've found the stronger, closer, and more directional the airflow the better.
I have a question if you dont mind, I just tried making a DIY 26ga SS316L contact coil, first try I didnt dry burn it, just wick and vape, I got a really nasty metallic flavor, tasted like a corroding guitar string. I thought the coil I made was a failure, so I ditched it and made another one, dry burn it and it looked good, heats evenly, but I still got that corrosive flavor.. did I do something wrong? I was vaping at low watt btw (coil readings .4-.5 ohms, vape at 25w).
I'm kinda concerned about the health effect of vaping this :/
EDIT:
i read that you shouldnt pulse SS until glowing red, did that, pinch it around a bit. same result
Last edited:
I have a question if you dont mind, I just tried making a DIY 26ga SS316L contact coil, first try I didnt dry burn it, just wick and vape, I got a really nasty metallic flavor, tasted like a corroding guitar string. I thought the coil I made was a failure, so I ditched it and made another one, dry burn it and it looked good, heats evenly, but I still got that corrosive flavor.. did I do something wrong? I was vaping at low watt btw (coil readings .4-.5 ohms, vape at 25w).
I'm kinda concerned about the health effect of vaping this :/
EDIT:
i read that you shouldnt pulse SS until glowing red, did that, pinch it around a bit. same result
For the 1st Coil, I would have said that the SS Wire might have had some Machine Oil on it. But since you did a Second Coil and Dry Burned that one, it sounds like Dirty Wire can probably be Ruled Out.
So I would consider is it the Wire Itself? Or maybe the wicking material?
Have you used the Wire before? Where did you get it from?
Have you used the Wick Material before? What type is it and where did you get it from?
Have you used the e-Liquid before?
What is the Coil going into (Tank, RTA, RDA)?
Was the Coil thoroughly Primed?
I have used everything else except the wire, the wire was 316L from geekvape.
Wicking material was cotton bacon v2, E-juice was my all-day vape, going into my serpent mini.
could be it's not thoroughly primed? I was just letting it sit for 5mins or so before vaping it. :/
- Status
Similar threads
