Something weird happened this year when my insurance went up about $11 a week. My pay actually increased by around $20. It must have affected my tax bracket or something.
The only thing I could think of is if it changed your tax bracket estimate down, but that seems unlikely for $500+ dollars a year. Does your company contribute?
I've used a mirror, flashlight and turned the shaft pulling on the belt very slowly. I have not been able to find the holes where the broken roll pins reside. I can't believe the roll pin gets pinched so much that you can't see a space in the inserted roll pin. All I could see is solid shaft. I even worked around the entire shaft with a small nail trying to feel the roll pin with no luck. I'm at a lose at this point.
I've used a mirror, flashlight and turned the shaft pulling on the belt very slowly. I have not been able to find the holes where the broken roll pins reside. I can't believe the roll pin gets pinched so much that you can't see a space in the inserted roll pin. All I could see is solid shaft. I even worked around the entire shaft with a small nail trying to feel the roll pin with no luck. I'm at a lose at this point.
Yes, our company does pay a good chunk of the insurance.
I'd either drill new holes or take it to a mechanic Roth. You're spending a lot of time without getting results. Does it show a location in the parts book for where the pins are? Are you sure there were pins?
I'd either drill new holes or take it to a mechanic Roth. You're spending a lot of time without getting results. Does it show a location in the parts book for where the pins are? Are you sure there were pins?
I have about a week before my live in gets back from Hawaii. I'm thinking of seeing if I can position my smart phone in there ant slowly turning the shaft with a video rolling. After that, I may rethink drilling new holes. I do have a small right angle drill that might fit in the tight space. I know if I have a hole, I can get the roll pins in but boy, what a pain. Planning on making sure the thrower fires up just in case.
I watched a video on replacing the pins. I don't know if it's the same model as yours but they show a shear pin in each auger and the one I saw had four pins. Are you working on the floor? I have a couple saw horses and an old door that I use to sit my equipment on when I really need to be able to see to work on it. I changed the gear box on my mower a few years ago and it was nice having it up in the air. I did the same when I changed the carburetor on the snowthrower. If all of the pins aren't broken then they should all line up. If they are all broken then I'd try holding a punch in the hole and slowly turn the auger until I felt it catch. Even if the pin is still in there then you should be able to feel a difference between the shaft texture and when you go over the pin.
A giant step forward. Oh, it's not the auger pins that are an issue, I replaced them last year or the year before when one snapped. Fortunately it was on the side that didn't have a nolt in it. I guess the guy before me sheared one off and replaced it with a bolt. I got four, two to replace the snapped one and the bolt and two for reserve. They were easy.
The ones I'm working on are for the impeller. Tight space and no way to see them without a mirror and a flashlight. Right after I posted, I went out with my phone and looked to see if I could set it in there some way with a video as I posted before. As I was looking at it, I saw what looked like a break in the shaft, maybe a 1/16 or 1/32" in front of the impeller. I snapped a picture and took a look and it was definitely not shaft and about half an inch from the impeller hole.
I grabbed the impeller, twisting and pulled on it. It took a bit of elbow crease but it finally pulled toward me. I got it this close-
It was nearing freezing and the light was getting lower so I stopped and will go at it on the weekend since it's supposed to get close to 60. I want to mark the shaft with something like fingernail polish where the hole is, turn the shaft so I can align it so I can but the 3/8" steel bar I bought to insert into the chute hole to drive the old roll pins out and put the new ones in. My expectations are about 95% higher rthan my last post.
The ones I'm working on are for the impeller. Tight space and no way to see them without a mirror and a flashlight. Right after I posted, I went out with my phone and looked to see if I could set it in there some way with a video as I posted before. As I was looking at it, I saw what looked like a break in the shaft, maybe a 1/16 or 1/32" in front of the impeller. I snapped a picture and took a look and it was definitely not shaft and about half an inch from the impeller hole.
I grabbed the impeller, twisting and pulled on it. It took a bit of elbow crease but it finally pulled toward me. I got it this close-
It was nearing freezing and the light was getting lower so I stopped and will go at it on the weekend since it's supposed to get close to 60. I want to mark the shaft with something like fingernail polish where the hole is, turn the shaft so I can align it so I can but the 3/8" steel bar I bought to insert into the chute hole to drive the old roll pins out and put the new ones in. My expectations are about 95% higher rthan my last post.
One step closer (I hate these projects). I was able to line things up and drive the back roll pin out and lined it up as close as possible but couldn't drive the roll pin in. What a stupid design. I couldn't get the front pin to move, couldn't get my small drill in figuring I might be able to drill out the old roll pin but there's just not enough room with completely disassembling the entire front end of the machine.
I drove a smallish screw in trying to push out the roll pin and it went through the center and is now stuck. It might become part of the impeller pins, screw it. I bought a bolt that will fit in the other hole in the event we do get snow and I ordered some 1/4" shear bolts that I'll probably have to doctor to fit. However, it will be run able if we get hit yet this winter.
I drove a smallish screw in trying to push out the roll pin and it went through the center and is now stuck. It might become part of the impeller pins, screw it. I bought a bolt that will fit in the other hole in the event we do get snow and I ordered some 1/4" shear bolts that I'll probably have to doctor to fit. However, it will be run able if we get hit yet this winter.
Yeah, my thoughts completely. From searching for shear bolts, a lot of the manufacturers have them, but all are 1/4" or more and the holes in the shaft are just slightly less than that.
I tried to run a 1/4" bolt in to see if they would fit with no luck.
I'm seriously considering cutting a square into the top of the drum rather than disassembling, boring out the holes in the shaft to fit a 1/4" shear bolt and getting a piece of sheet medal and some self tapping screws to cover the hole. The next repair would be a lot quicker.
I tried to run a 1/4" bolt in to see if they would fit with no luck.
I'm seriously considering cutting a square into the top of the drum rather than disassembling, boring out the holes in the shaft to fit a 1/4" shear bolt and getting a piece of sheet medal and some self tapping screws to cover the hole. The next repair would be a lot quicker.
The ones I replaced on the Honda track drive at work were smaller than 1/4". They were metric but I don't remember exactly what size. I can look at work tomorrow and see if I still have some.
Yeah, if you have any, check if they're like 6mm. the shoulder can be larger and the length at least 1 1/4, probably 1.5 with a nut on them. If they're in the ballpark, hopefully they're still in the original bag so I can search them out.
Ok, I checked when I came in this morning and the bolts we got from the Honda dealer are 6mm but they are only about 16mm or .62 in length so it doesn't sound like those are long enough to work.
No, they won' work but you have me headed in the right direction. I found a convo on stainless steel 8.8 to replace shear bolts as one option.
I also found these on ebay. They're a little long, but they may work.
5 Shear Pins HS724 HS80 HS828 HS928 Snow Thrower Blower 90114-SA0-000 HON R5540 | eBay
I also found these on ebay. They're a little long, but they may work.
5 Shear Pins HS724 HS80 HS828 HS928 Snow Thrower Blower 90114-SA0-000 HON R5540 | eBay
I love how everything is a pain in the .... to work on in today's disposable society. All of the older equipment/vehicles I've worked on, it's like they were engineered from the get go to last forever and be maintained by the end user, all of the common wear items easy to get to and replace etc.
Pulling the deck off my riding mower to sharpen the blades was super easy, three spring loaded retainers and its down, taking all of 2 minutes. But, to remove the engagement cable to get the deck fully away was an absolute pain. I no doubt spent more time trying to get that cable off without breaking it than actually taking the blades off and to the bench grinder.
The weather yesterday was nice enough to celebrate my favorite unofficial holiday. Utepils! It's a crying shame we don't have an English equivalent.
Pulling the deck off my riding mower to sharpen the blades was super easy, three spring loaded retainers and its down, taking all of 2 minutes. But, to remove the engagement cable to get the deck fully away was an absolute pain. I no doubt spent more time trying to get that cable off without breaking it than actually taking the blades off and to the bench grinder.
The weather yesterday was nice enough to celebrate my favorite unofficial holiday. Utepils! It's a crying shame we don't have an English equivalent.
You're right Waho. All the instructions offered by Craftsman is to have them do it or basically disassemble the entire front end. I can almost guarantee they can do it without the complete disassembly but most people would just throw in the towel and get it done.
If it was a one time job, an inexpensive fix or something you don't want to deal with then the snow's falling no problem. However, I want to be able to pull it into the garage and be back up running within minutes like you can do with the augers.
If it was a one time job, an inexpensive fix or something you don't want to deal with then the snow's falling no problem. However, I want to be able to pull it into the garage and be back up running within minutes like you can do with the augers.
The shoulder on those shear bolts is just a bit too thick, I just got them today . The bolt slides in and a bit of the end is exposed but I need maybe a 1/8" or a 1/4" more to turn the nut down. I'll protect the threads and put the thread end in a drill and use my grinder to take just a fraction off that shoulder and I should be good to go.
I hope it works out. I almost forgot that I ordered a Joyetech elitar pipe back in December in a preorder. It arrived today. It's pretty nice but I wish the atomizer was rebuildable.
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