That's a good point. I was operating under the assumption that the battery was installed in the correct orientation. And I was originally thinking in terms of regulated mods, not mechs.
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I think you've answered your own question here. Is every tear immediately dangerous? Nope. It depends on the mod and where the tear is. However, as a general rule, tears are bad and should be rewrapped. If only because a tear will likely get worse over time.
Ask the question in another way. If the wrapper (insulation) wasn't very important, why does the manufacturer bother with the added expense of installing it?!? Insulation, grommets, strain reliefs, fuses, etc, are all engineered to protect living things from electricity.
I'd agree that the grommets and the insulation around the top are very important as that's the area where the positive and negative sides of the battery are in close proximity. As for the wrap around the rest of the battery, it does keep the positive and negative terminals as far away from each other as possible, so I wouldn't say that it's a bad thing. I just think that a tear on the on side, on a mod that uses the chassis for the negative leg (and doesn't use a bottom switch), probably isn't going to go boom. That being said, it's probably better to tell everyone to not use batteries with tears, under any circumstances, just because of the creative ways some people can find to mess things up.
That goes way back to when people would say that putting the battery + side down would make it hit harder or fire up faster.
Current takes the shortest path it can find. If you have a tear halfway on your battery (in a mechanical anyway) it will terminate at the tear rather at the switch creating a hard short. (since the entire length of the battery is negative anyway, and only that top cap is positive) If the battery short protection were to fail in a regulated, I suppose it would also hard short in a regulated as well.
Thankfully, a bunch of manufacturers are adding sleeves into their mods as a sort of last resort or just in case.
Thankfully, a bunch of manufacturers are adding sleeves into their mods as a sort of last resort or just in case.
The current would still be going through the coil, so it's not really a short, as the resistance is not going to change, like would be this case if your positive shorted to the mod chassis. Correct?
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I think the current would skip the coil and terminate at the 510 pin, travel from the positive cap to the tear in the wrap back to the positive cap (as that would be be path of least resisitance)
I'm guessing SOME current may pass through the coil, but I'll bet more travels from the positive cap to the tear.
I'm certain a dead shorted, direct to battery connection is the most dangerous situation you can get into.
I'm guessing SOME current may pass through the coil, but I'll bet more travels from the positive cap to the tear.
I'm certain a dead shorted, direct to battery connection is the most dangerous situation you can get into.
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In a mech it's simple, a tear could either cause constant firing (positive up) or will cause a hard short at the press of the button (positive down). In an insulated tray on a regulated, you may be ok, but what's the point in taking the risk?
Just save the grief and ensure your wraps are decent. No matter what the mod is.
Just save the grief and ensure your wraps are decent. No matter what the mod is.
I can't picture how that could happen. The positive side is insulated from the rest of the battery (negative). So in order for the current to bypass the coil (unless there's a short up there) would be if the current jumped the insulation. which would not be the path of least resistance. A tear in the side of the battery, making contact with a the negative chassis, would be in effect, moving the negative terminal up a little higher, but the current would still be moving along, more or less, the same general path. This is provided that there's no switch in the bottom. At least that's the way I see it.
Totally agree "dead short" bad.
I'm not sure what would happen, and have no desire to find out. I suppose it moves the switch (negative) up and depressing the fire button would cause the tear to behave like a fire button that's depressed. I guess.
I've already seen one dead short in shop, and it happened so quickly I was in awe. Little tube mod turned into Godzilla in a split second. Luckily, no one was hurt...hairs were singed, but surprisingly no burns.
I've already seen one dead short in shop, and it happened so quickly I was in awe. Little tube mod turned into Godzilla in a split second. Luckily, no one was hurt...hairs were singed, but surprisingly no burns.
Agreed, I have no desire to see what a shorted battery does either. Well, at least not at close range.
An often overlooked scenario to consider when using a regulated series mod is that if the "cans" of two of the batteries touch then one of the batteries will be short-circuited. This can easily happen with damaged wraps in a mod like the RX200 series, and others, where the batteries are touching.
Best-case scenario (barring "case is isolated from the circuit and nothing bad happens at all): battery contact bypasses the switch, and device auto-fires without button press.
Worst-case scenario: battery contact causes short-circuit, and battery erupts in a violent venting incident.
Worst-case scenario: battery contact causes short-circuit, and battery erupts in a violent venting incident.
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