Authentic Svoemesto Kayfun 5

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Bronze

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Yes, and it was fine, but get this: Swapped pin from another K5 and it fired fine. Weird: Put original pin back in, and now it works. I had tried taking the pin out and replacing previously with no luck. Go figure...
Accept the result and don't ask why.
 

magicmyst

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Anyone come up with a brilliant solution to seepage from air slots? I've tried everything I can think of, including replacing o-rings, plenty of wick in the wells, etc. I have 2 K5s that I keep loaded with my ADV. After a fresh wick, I might get 2 days before they start to seep. Love these tanks, but the oozing from a $100+ atomizer is annoying.
 

Bronze

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Anyone come up with a brilliant solution to seepage from air slots? I've tried everything I can think of, including replacing o-rings, plenty of wick in the wells, etc. I have 2 K5s that I keep loaded with my ADV. After a fresh wick, I might get 2 days before they start to seep. Love these tanks, but the oozing from a $100+ atomizer is annoying.
Sounds like you are doing a lot of things right. Try one last thing. Make sure you put space between your wick and the air hole on the deck. If I get a chance I'll photograph my build.
 

magicmyst

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Sounds like you are doing a lot of things right. Try one last thing. Make sure you put space between your wick and the air hole on the deck. If I get a chance I'll photograph my build.
Thanks, I'll look into that when I re-wick today. Are you talking about the sides or the height of the coil?
 

Bronze

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Thanks, I'll look into that when I re-wick today. Are you talking about the sides or the height of the coil?
Both! Just keep moving all of it away from that air hole. Once a thread of juice connects your wick to the air hole you have established a conduit for the juice to continue to leak. Put a nice shoulder at the top of your wick so the side that goes in your well is as vertical as you can make it. Have it so it is as far away from the deck as you can get it.
 

magicmyst

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Both! Just keep moving all of it away from that air hole. Once a thread of juice connects your wick to the air hole you have established a conduit for the juice to continue to leak. Put a nice shoulder at the top of your wick so the side that goes in your well is as vertical as you can make it. Have it so it is as far away from the deck as you can get it.
Will do!
 

Bronze

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---------O--------
. .
. .
. .
. .

Angle it from the outside to the inside to keep the shoulder from collapsing. See my crappy diagram above. The 'O' is the coil. The dots and dashes are the wick. From the side view. EDIT: Well, that didn't work. ECF software deletes spaces. Just have each leg shaped like a 7 (or backwards 7 for the opposite side). Hope that made sense.
 

magicmyst

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---------O--------
. .
. .
. .
. .

Angle it from the outside to the inside to keep the shoulder from collapsing. See my crappy diagram above. The 'O' is the coil. The dots and dashes are the wick. From the side view. EDIT: Well, that didn't work. ECF software deletes spaces. Just have each leg shaped like a 7 (or backwards 7 for the opposite side). Hope that made sense.
Thanks. Got it. My wicking is actually similar to what you're describing, but will take care to keep it from touching. Can use my little screwdriver to be sure I've got a gap. You, know, this probably explains why sometimes I get a wick that's leak free, by accidentally doing it right.
 

Bronze

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Thanks. Got it. My wicking is actually similar to what you're describing, but will take care to keep it from touching. Can use my little screwdriver to be sure I've got a gap. You, know, this probably explains why sometimes I get a wick that's leak free, by accidentally doing it right.
What's the saying? Better to be lucky than good?
 

Ca Ike

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Anyone come up with a brilliant solution to seepage from air slots? I've tried everything I can think of, including replacing o-rings, plenty of wick in the wells, etc. I have 2 K5s that I keep loaded with my ADV. After a fresh wick, I might get 2 days before they start to seep. Love these tanks, but the oozing from a $100+ atomizer is annoying.

I get seepage after a couple tanks myself but it's not juice. It's condensation build up. For some reason both the v4 and v5 create a lot of condensation in the base.
 
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magicmyst

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Haven't re-wicked yet today, but @Bronze seems to have the answer. Before going out to exercise the dog, I took the base off a leaky K5, took a hat pin between the wick and the air hole and moved it away from the hole on both sides. After a couple hours in and out of my pocket, it's bone dry. I'll post back after I've had both wicked more carefully for a couple days.
 

magicmyst

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I rewick after couple of tanks (2 refills) - and always find my KM3 & K5 bone dry, everywhere. And both are my daily use atties, used constantly.
That would certainly solve it, but I often don't find time to re-wick that frequently, which is why I keep to of them filled with my ADV.
 

qorax

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My trick (or method/style if you may) with every atty is:

1) Rewick every 8-12mls, depending on the e-juice (which usually is two/three tanks per wick).
2) Coil resting between 1.5-2.0mm from the base's airhole, depending on type of the deck.
3) Airflow fully open with most atties (for restricted lung hits).
4) Use 50:50 VG/PG e-liquids (usually).
5) Use Rayon (mostly) and Japanese cotton (infrequently)
6) Use Rayon nearly double the density of cotton for the same coil dia.

And I never have a leaking atty. Definitely not with the KM3 & K5.
 
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Ca Ike

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My trick (or method/style if you may) with every atty is:

1) Rewick every 8-12mls, depending on the e-juice (which usually is two/three tanks per wick).
2) Coil resting between 1.5-2.0mm from the base's airhole, depending on type of the deck.
3) Airflow fully open with most atties (for restricted lung hits).
4) Use 50:50 VG/PG e-liquids (usually).
5) Use Rayon (mostly) and Japanese cotton (infrequently)
6) Use Rayon nearly double the density of cotton for the same coil dia.

And I never have a leaking atty. Definitely not with the KM3 & K5.

I use pretty much the same build as you Q. My current juices are 60-70vg. I'm finding I have to wick with the rayon just thick enough( drags on, but doesn't move the coil) to have to do a slight twist to get it through the coil. Any looser and I get popping, tighter I get dry hits or that nutty taste.

I still get condensation build up but no juice leaks. The higher the pg the less condensation it seems.

I also find if I angle the coil so the wick makes that S like it was recommended on the older kayfuns, I get no leaks. Also less hot leg problems.
 
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