Mine too. But only because it was cracked to begin with.
KangerTech SUBTANK Mini
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Brilliant @lil_buddy. Usually cut up old dish gloves into strips to use as slip free grips. And it works for most things. But I've got a very early orig ST that had a powerful long term build in it. It's never given up the grip. It will this time, I've no doubt. Thanks!
The greatest ideas are the simplest. ―William Golding, Lord of the Flies
Good luck.
I have had my subtank hand me the no atomizer crap occasionally. What I think the problem is that the positive pin gets pushed too far up and doesn't make contact. I remove the rba, then push the pin down some from the inside, out if you want too then you can separate the insulator from the pin and clean but I then put the rba back into place with the pin pushed down then push the pin up till it contacts the RBA. Just begin to make it a habit to push the positive pin down a bit every time you remove the RBA from the base and seat the RBA first then seat the positive pin especially if its on a mod that will push up on the pin and turtle into the subtank base's 510 connection.
Good point alt and PT users should check that pin every time. Too close and you'll get a check atty fail on a regulated mod. On a mechanical and you may start a battery thermal runaway if the pin and external neg threading of the 510 are too close or flush. You need to have a few mm's visible gold pin sticking out.
If you push it out from the inside of the base, you may still pull an error on a regulated if contact's lost between the pin and the rba/coil assembly. Pushing the pin too far down (and not enough pressure upwards when you screw it on the mod) and you may still not present a good contact to bottom pin of the coil assembly. If this latter, you will have a sucky vape. A gap and you won't fire at all.
This pin issue is prolly one of the must frustrating and overlooked causes of a defective or lackluster vape on ST's. Just like flawed post connect's in general.
Like you stack rounds tight in a banana clip, I gently tap the pin tight from the bottom before screwing it on the mod. Your method or mine, always make sure then of course you have a couple'a three mm's of pin sticking out! Then you're truly golden.
Good luck.Many are right away to blame the RBA on not making contact. Once you've done it you'll see how easily that pin slides if there is juice present in the base thats why I remove the pin and insulator and give it a clean then qtip and isoprop the opening where the insulator sits. It doesn't matter how you do it as long as you put the RBA into the base first then push the pin up after, the result is the same.
Taking the RBA apart also to remove the juice that gets under the delrin insulator, inside the screw holes and cooties inside the airflow shaft. Wick breakin taste is also blamed for funky old juice thats beginning to turn cause of the heating. It gets pretty hot inside the RBA cooking a .5ohm coil for several good chain vapes. Another reason why I remove the coil build then clean the RBA and replace with the same build so funky chard scraping don't taste in the fresh wicking. Just tossing the RBA or any atty into hot water doesn't clean nothing, it needs to be brush cleaned(even a toothbrush) with a bit of soap to remove the film and scum.
Once you have your build on the RBA after you've fired it, wicked it and juiced it remember to give the screws a quick test torque to be sure they haven't loosened some and also once in a while after you've vaped a few tanks, check again. The heating and cooling of the RBA can cause the screws to back off especially if your RBA been rebuilt oodles of times and in some cases I can get a ioda of a extra turn from the screws.
I agree cleaning that pin connect and making sure that insulator is properly positioned goes a long way to keeping these tanks sweet.
Good luck.
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Well wish me luck. I put a build in an RBA plus. Woulda rather tried a V1 but all 5 of the ones I got have been dremeled out so huge that I decided not to mess with them. Anyway I did 7 wraps 28awg 316L came out to .73ohm, next time I'll do 6 wraps. Felt like I went a little lite on the rayon but it's Vapin nice at 22.5 watts 400°. I did push the wick ends out thru the juice holes a tad, just seemed like the right thing to do.
Now for the essential test..... gonna let it sit upright with AFC wide open overnight in a cup full of paper towel. I've read some comments over time about these things being leaky. Ain't having none of that. Hopefully I done good and the juice will still be inside the tank in the morning. G'nite all.
Now for the essential test..... gonna let it sit upright with AFC wide open overnight in a cup full of paper towel. I've read some comments over time about these things being leaky. Ain't having none of that. Hopefully I done good and the juice will still be inside the tank in the morning. G'nite all.
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The Subtank RBA's can be tricky with the leakage and it will happen if the juice has a good percentage of PG in it and you don't wick the RBA correctly.
Too much wicking and you will develop dry hits and too little and you get leaks lol.
I leave the tanks on their side a lot and test leakage that way since i have a tendency to leave them on their side at times.
Too much wicking and you will develop dry hits and too little and you get leaks lol.
I leave the tanks on their side a lot and test leakage that way since i have a tendency to leave them on their side at times.
Hey MacTechVpr , i checked all your blogs, (superb by the way) looking for a tutorial on Sub Tank head rebuilding and didn't see anything but i have come across you talking about it in detail in the past .
I will just do a search , didn't even think of it , (punching self in head while calling self an idiot) never mind.
I will just do a search , didn't even think of it , (punching self in head while calling self an idiot) never mind.
Herb you won't regret it. I work real world with low-power to comp level vapers. Strain's in everything and every bit as powerful a tool as I describe. Try the terms tensioned, sticky, pin vise and oxidation for an overview. Hit me if you get hung up. Glad to help all who come here. I only ask those who succeed to pass on the joy.
Good luck.p.s. A good general round up here…KangerTech SUBTANK Mini | Post#3321 | E-Cigarette Forum…or also search for descriptions of my recommended reference center point for Kanthal on the KST using my handle and the term 25/7 (25 being the gauge).
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Herb you won't regret it. I work real world with low-power to comp level vapers. Strain's in everything and every bit as powerful a tool as I describe. Try the terms tensioned, sticky, pin vise and oxidation for an overview. Hit me if you get hung up. Glad to help all who come here. I only ask those who succeed to pass on the joy.
p.s. A good general round up here…KangerTech SUBTANK Mini | Post#3321 | E-Cigarette Forum…or also search for descriptions of my recommended reference center point for Kanthal on the KST using my handle and the term 25/7 (25 being the gauge).
No need to convince me of your expertise , you have always been "the man" when it comes to those topics since my first post on ECF .
Thanks for all you do my friend.
My sub tanks I can say have never leaked. It's prolly the way I wick them and now with scraping the tails to remove bulk it's so much easier and better than using scissors. I set them on their side or sit for days on my desk, couple primer puffs and I'm on my way. I vape 60/40 juice. My wife has no idea what a dry hit is or crappy vape is so on doing something right. Subtanks in our house has been nothing short of the best a vape can be.
Guess I done sumthin right. The STM has earned spot in my rotation. Stood up all night half full of 65V/35P without losing a single drop.
This is me. I treasure the fact that I can toss my current go to tank anywhere I want in any position and not worry about it. At least not unless ambient temps (hot truck/car) or altitude changes (I'm a traveler) come into play, of course.
The STM has some purty big shoes to fill if it's gonna earn spot along side my eGo ONE Mega V1 tanks. It has cleared 3 hurdles, I really like the look (thats huge! Cuz I don't like much of the same old same old that I see others using), it apparently doesn't piddle so far and availability is much better than the other one. I'll see how it goes fer a few week and prolly start stockpiling a few (dozen?).
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Only tank I ever had that didn't leak from heat or altitude changes.
I have moved on from a Nautilus to the Subtank Mini's because they are easy to maintain and come with an RBA option which is a big selling point for me .
I only buy them when a great deal pops up , i jump on the $9.99 sales that appear every once in awhile.
They also work great even when vaping well under 30 watts .
I know, the STM and ego one tanks are hard to beat. They're my favorites. I have 4 and want at least 6 more
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Yeah, despite my formidable collection still groovin on the ST's and all the bells, glass variants. Too many to list. Still turnin folks on to them. Still about one of the easiest RBA's to get right and a decent vape that don't leak! Density and volume. It's a beautiful thing.
Thanks for the nod VL.
Good luck.
deremelled out weep hole in the rba, rayon, 80%vg, if ive done it right there are no leaks.
one was siting upright for months w/juice, not a drop leak to be seen.
if you like the stmini youll probably like the bachelor, its my goto atty, well i only use stmini rba and bachelor
one was siting upright for months w/juice, not a drop leak to be seen.
if you like the stmini youll probably like the bachelor, its my goto atty, well i only use stmini rba and bachelor
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