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Sony VCT4, accept no substitutes.

A few things that you should know before using silica (readywick, ecowool, etc). Some types of silica wick have a polyester core-stuffing that you NEED to remove beforehand, the wick should basically be a hollow tube. After you have de-cored the portion of wick you intend to use, grab it with...

Wash your hands with a good dish soap before you roll a wick, it will take the oil off of your hands. Don't use cheap cotton; I recommend switching to rayon.

My two daily driver RDAs are the Veritas, and the LowPro. Apparently I like atomizers that are a PITA to build on.

Heat it until it is a dull orange. Let it cool to room temperature on its own in the air. The technical explanation is you need to bring the metal to be annealed up to its curie point, then let it cool slowly back to room temperature.

Yeah, of you are going to wick with silica you need to remove any non-silica thread that some types of cord have as stuffing down the middle, leaving a straw. After this you need to torch it to orange hot to burn off any manufacturing residue.

If you search my post history I should have a picture of my old Nixon dual vertical build. You might have better luck searching for "chimney coil" for the wicking technique you are referring to. Personally, I think there are only a few RDA/RTAs that even benifit from this type of setup, the...

I use 316L stainless steel for my coils. Pretty much all preflight guidelines for kanthal apply to 316L; make sure the coil heats evenly before you wick it. Once you have wicked your coil, hotspots will persist until the coil has oxidized from heating, so get it taken care of before it spoils...

I do the same thing with my copper cb :-x

The derringer is ridiculously easy to build on. I used to use mine daily, but lost it on a trip up Mt. Hofmann. The velocity or a similar two post atty is the simplest to build on, cutting your coil leads is quite a bit simpler on a two post atty. On the opposite end of the spectrum you have...

Elon is off somewhere else stealing someone elses ideas.

It is 400 grade SS mesh, cut to length and rolled to a 2.5mm outer diameter. The coil is 316L stainless steel, 26 guage, 2.5mm inner diameter, usually around .3 to .4 resistance. I compression wind my coil around a separate steel mandrel, then pull the coil to length, and recompress it (on the...

Do you have the negative battery spacer installed + installed correctly? Does the positive pin of your rda protrude enough to be safe with the pinless topcap? Is the battery wrap fully intact?

The kayfun has a microscopic build deck. The kanger RBA is a bit better. If you are looking into an RTA with a larger build deck like the Griffin or Cthulu you might also want to consider the geekvape Avocado, seems to be a well-built device and easy to set up. In terms of a mod, there are a...

Send it to me, marmite is delicious.

The wismec/jaybo indestructible RDA. No built in AFC (I'm sorry, a 22mm vape band isn't an acceptable solution), and while the build deck is interesting, it doesn't offer any real advantage over a more conventional 2/3 post deck due to the height difference between the positive and negative...

I've made over 50 feet of various types of roto-wound coils, normal, fused, twisted fused, alien, etc. They look nice but they aren't worth the time, especially if you are building for mech use. More wire surface area != more vapor or flavor. Once your coils are at temperature, the vaporization...

People are still worried about copper and brass parts on atomizers? The municipal water you most likely drink was piped to you through copper pipes. I'd be more worried between the interaction of fluorides and chloramines in city water with copper than I am about my ejuice interacting with...

From my understanding, a sleeper coil is a pair of coils that are built from a single length of wire that passes through (could also be trapped/wrapped around the positive screw head) the atomizer's positive post without a break in the wire, creating a parallel coil setup. Bingo. It is a...

First off, do some research on battery safety, the most important thing to know is what CDR is, and how to calculate the amp draw of your atomizer. Knowing the CDR of your cells is critical to your safety. Since you are building for a mech, avoid complicated roto-wound ("clapton") builds; they...