.28 gauge Kanthal & The Aga-t2

Discussion in 'New Members Forum' started by GuataLOOP, Apr 1, 2013.

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  1. GuataLOOP

    GuataLOOP Full Member

    Hey guys,

    i know this is the wrong forum but I can't post in the rebuildable a section. Hopefully someone with my same problem is browsing and sees this.

    So I have an Adam mod with an Aga-t2 and whenever I put .28 gauge coils on it, it fires but it straigh up melts my battery and mod. The coils light evenly and cape extremely well. But after 10-15 seconds my switch gets super hot and my bottom cap does as well.

    I throw some .32 gauge on there and it doesn't cape as well and takes way more time to rid the hotspots but it doesn't melt my ..... I'm bummed man, I see everyone using .28 on their genesis.

    .28 gauge: .8-1.1 resistance
    .32 gauge: 1.8-2.2 resistance


    thanks
     
  2. Oktyabr

    Oktyabr Ultra Member Verified Member ECF Veteran

    What on earth are you using for a battery mod?!?! You know the RBA's aren't for beginners and that they DO have a learning curve involved, right?
     
  3. Niko49

    Niko49 Senior Member Verified Member ECF Veteran

    What kind of battery are you using?
     
  4. tnt56

    tnt56 Vaping Master Verified Member ECF Veteran

    I think you need to slow down some. IMHO. Check things out in the forum and learn like all the rest of us did. At first just keep it simple. As you advance then go with the more advanced options. The RBA's are a tricky little critter. It takes some time to figure them out. (after I figure mine out then I can say more). Good luck.
     
  5. GuataLOOP

    GuataLOOP Full Member

    I'm no beginner, I've been vaping since June. It's a Team Rampage "The Adam" google it. I have 3 Oddys, 1 real one 2 clones. I have a DID and an Aga-T2, along with dozens of phoenixs and other copycat attys. Have about 5 cheap china mods, both mech and VV.

    I know what I'm doing when it comes to building coils and how my device actually works. Although I'm no electrician so I learn everything from trial and error.

    @Niko49
    Using currently a Efest 1100mAh IMR 18500 3.7V Li-Mn.
    But it happened with all my batteries
    18650x2
    18350x2
    all AW IMR quality batteries not some walmart ghetto bats

    And when i say it's melting my mod It's not actually but I know if I continue and leave it it's extremely unsafe, that I know. I know low resistance is also dangerous with no Kick which I do not have. All of which I keep in mind.The brass contacts everywhere on the mod just heat up extremely fast where that normally never happens.

    It happened one time when I didn't notice and my mod stop firing, I investigated and it had melted my spring to the point where it was just coils and no longer looked like a spring. It was a close call and I wont ever let it happen again. I'm vary weary of the temp of my mod and all the contacts.

    Thanks for the replys
     
  6. Oktyabr

    Oktyabr Ultra Member Verified Member ECF Veteran

    I think this "Adam mod" is this one, a full mechanical. TEAM RAMPAGE

    If so the OP *really* needs to get a digital multimeter and check the resistance on the coils he's trying to build. You can't judge the resistance of an RBA simply by what the label on the wire you bought says the gauge is. Further, since it is a mechanical mod it has NO built in protection, which is why that switch is getting so hot! REALLY needs a safety fuse in there before someone gets hurt... Vape Safe - 2 Cents For Safety Mod Battery Safety Fuse [gv-VapeSafe-2csForSafetyFuse] - $7.99 : GotVapes.com, E-cigarette Supplies - Atomizers Cartomizers Mods Juice and more
     
  7. GuataLOOP

    GuataLOOP Full Member

    I have been building coils and wicks for over 5 Months. I came here for news and new ideas, although I'm a new member to this forum I am not new to this forum at all.

    I know you guys are trying to help but please stop judging me based on my "member status" and posts. They are irrelevant to my actual vaping knowledge. If you have an ideas or clues I may be over looking to solve this problem I would appreciate it very much.
     
  8. Oktyabr

    Oktyabr Ultra Member Verified Member ECF Veteran

    You should have clarified your experience level in your FIRST post! Hey, it IS the "New Members" forum, right? One never knows *until* some more information is provided, as you have. "Trial and Error" is a dangerous, expensive way to do this sort of project. If you don't already have one go get a halfway decent DMM at Radioshack or Walmart or something. MUCH cheaper to be safe than sorry (and possibly in the hospital).
     
  9. GuataLOOP

    GuataLOOP Full Member

    I build all my coils on a protected VV device before I put anything on my mech mods. I also check the resistances as well. I've considered buying a Kick or something along those lines but that defeats the purpose of my mech mod. I bought it for the fully mechanical un altered current and size of it.

    I am very weary at all times of my device and the current status. I check the spring, connections, battery and contacts, and all the brass all the time. Constantly checking the temperature and quality.
     
  10. GuataLOOP

    GuataLOOP Full Member

    Thanks for the input and your concern. No offense, but I don't need that stuff to know something is seriously wrong after firing for a couple seconds. I'm not putting it in my pocket and using it for the rest of the day. I immediately take it apart and try to find a solution. It has something to do with the gauge wire and the low resistance. Dont have a problem with anything but .28 gauge. Maybe its the amount of coils, the conductivity of my Atty, maybe my battery is going out.

    I was just seeing if anyone else had the same problem with .28 gauge kanthal and aga-t on a mechanical mod, and if so, how they solved it if they did.

    Also I posted in the "New Members" forum because for whatever reason its the only place I can post for right now till I post more.
     
  11. Oktyabr

    Oktyabr Ultra Member Verified Member ECF Veteran

    Well, that's good that you at least remember to check the resistance. This is a *must do* in my opinion. What resistance is this coil you are having problems with reading at?

    As for the unsatisfactory results? I'm not sure because there is a LOT of variance in how someone builds a coil for an RBA... two are unlikely to ever be *exactly* the same... but I doubt it has much to do with it just being 28 gauge wire. If in doubt source some new wire, maybe a lighter gauge like 30 and try that. Maybe there IS something wrong with that specific wire you have... You didn't tell us... have you built a coil using that exact same wire that worked well?

    What are you using for wick?
     
  12. Oktyabr

    Oktyabr Ultra Member Verified Member ECF Veteran

    No, lots of people use 28 gauge kanthal in the AGAs. How many work? Depends on the builder.

    I think you only need like five posts (maybe 15?) to post elsewhere... You really need to take this to the RBA sections I think...
     
  13. KevinBrooksTx

    KevinBrooksTx Full Member Verified Member ECF Veteran

    I may be off base, but you're almost doubling your amps going from 32ga 2 ohm to 28ga 1 and sub-1 ohm coils. The gauge of the wire is really irrelevant. You could benefit with a few things. 1 being MNKE batteries, since they have a 20amp rating, not the 10amp of eFest and AW IMR's. Also, try the 1 ohm unstacked. Stacked it's 70.56 watts, but unstacked it's only 17.64. Maybe even try lower with an unstacked setup. I'm running a .5 dual setup in my Nimbus on my EA Mod, and it get's a little warm when I chain vape, but not hot. IF it's of interest, it's also 3.5mm silica wick w/.5 ribbon wire. I plan on replacing all that with 500mesh stinger wicks soon, so it'll be virtually bulletproof. As for the 1 ohm unstacked, I have a 1ohm in my iHy standard, .5 ribbon 2/3 wrap, and it's ripping the plumes out. More batts/voltage seems like just more problems to me...just MHO, tho.
     
  14. KevinBrooksTx

    KevinBrooksTx Full Member Verified Member ECF Veteran

    Oh, sorry..I have an AGA, too. It's currently a 1ohm 3/4 wrap 30ga on a K100 w/eFest 18650 and it vapes like a beast, now that I bored the drawhole out to 1.2mm. The wick is whatever junk that was in the pack. I'll replace that with 500 if it ever goes bad. Juice is 70/30 vg/pg and it's only a hollow half-wick, since whole ones are virtual overkill.
    So yeah...Aga, unstacked, 1 ohm, 30ga, bored out...vapes like a pro.
     
  15. GuataLOOP

    GuataLOOP Full Member

    I've used this wire a multitude of times building coils, most of the time it fails because of the resistance created. It's just way too low, either burns up all my juice instantly or just gets a nasty burnt taste. I'm using a 500 unoxidized mesh wick. I've made over 50+ wicks and coils, but always have problems with .28 gauge. It just gets to damn hot. I've had the most success with unoxidized wick.

    I get all my rebuildable supplies from Vaporizers, Ecigs and Accessories (edit. Dunno ... this is, but steam monkey is where i get my stuff)

    The only reason I mention my Aga-t2 is that when I switched to my Adam, I noticed a huge difference in connection, connectivity, power, etc from the quality of metals being used. I could put the same atty on my VV mod at 5.5v and my adam will still produce more vapor with longer battery life. It's just better build better materials. I'm wondering if this could be the case with my Aga

    TBH I really have no idea what your talking about as I have never stacked batteries in my life nor will I ever. I'm not an electrician and ecigs is about as far as my electrical knowledge goes, but you don't have to be a guru of electricity to know stacking batteries on an unregulated mod is extremely stupid. Your setup sounds interesting and Im curous about the vape.

    Thanks for all the input.
     
  16. Oktyabr

    Oktyabr Ultra Member Verified Member ECF Veteran

    I think I trust Steam Monkey... did you get the AGA from him too?

    BTW, you should now have a high enough post count to post in the RBA forums, if you haven't already ;)
     
  17. Kanj.nguyen

    Kanj.nguyen Ultra Member Verified Member ECF Veteran

    Interesting... I have never heard of your problem before. But as far as i know, people have used 28awg on mechs without any problem.

    Perhaps the wick and wire setup is too close to the deck? But if only the switch and bottom gets hot, or at least they get hot first of all, then there may be something wrong with the battery or/and some kind of resistance in the switch... Im no expert, just speculating.

    Either way, good luck with it.
     
  18. DeeDee1234

    DeeDee1234 Super Member Verified Member ECF Veteran

    Assuming your push 5 volts

    5 times 5 is 25 divided by 1.1 om

    Your pushing 22.72 watts of power or more.. Hence.. hot, hot :vapor:
     
  19. GuataLOOP

    GuataLOOP Full Member

    Ok cool I will do that later tonight after I'm off work and when I have time to tinker with it. I love steam monkey and I trust them completely. I got my Aga when they first hit the market I believe in like sept or nov? I can't remember but they were hard to find. I got it from a site called mountainoakvapors which I also trust highly. I've spent hundreds there but I think I just might invest in a brand name genesis atty. Chinese clones always skimp on material quality. You need highly conductive contacts, like brass or copper for the center post and ground.

    I know once I get the .28 gauge down my genesis will top my Oddy in terms of vapor production. As of now theyre just way to finicky. It will be firing amazing one night. Take the battery out put it in the charger and go to sleep, wake up and fire it and it's nothing like it was the night before. Extremely frustrating.
     
  20. Jshill520

    Jshill520 Senior Member Verified Member ECF Veteran

    Is the Adam new? I've had some issues with brass contacts being pretty corroded and it'll get hot to the point where you think you have a short. Maybe try cleaning the brass contacts. It'll fix it right up if that's the problem. The lower resistance will amplify the problem so maybe that's why you're not getting it with the 32 gauge.
     
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