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A new design for a Repairable atomizer

Discussion in 'Atomizer Mods' started by Bowlcut3x, Apr 15, 2011.

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  1. Bowlcut3x

    Bowlcut3x Full Member

    Jun 25, 2009
    I have thought long and hard of coming up with a design for an easy to repair/rebuild atomizer. I had been rebuilding my 510 attys for awhile and looked for an easier solution. To my dismay, there are 2 already on the market, the Ato-Mizer and the Buili A2. I recently purchased the Ato-Mizer. I rather regret not choosing the Buili instead. However, I am still going forward with my ideas and design.
    I have decided to use connective pins (female pins in the unit and male pins on the ends of the NiChrome coils).
    Here is an image of the idea:

    In one the images I have shown it to look like Ato-Mizer, short and stubby, but this is not my idea for the final product. I want it to have a longer
    tube and the tip will be designed to have a smooth edge. I want it to be customizable for those, like me, that spent extra money on a drip tip to still
    be able to use them, and if you don't have a drip tip it will still be a nice mouth piece comfortable for vaping.
    I just have to find someone, or some machining company to make a prototype for me because I don't have the tools or material to do it myself.

    Any thoughts? I would appreciate the feedback.
  2. drewk302

    drewk302 Super Member ECF Veteran

    Dec 24, 2010
    I am not familiar with this type of setup but, either I am missing it or there is no wicking material. I dunno
  3. Bowlcut3x

    Bowlcut3x Full Member

    Jun 25, 2009
    Sorry, I had to re upload the image with the coil and wick. In the original photo I merely wanted to show the unit. The coil/wick were not that important to show because I thought it was an obvious element to the atomizer. I have fixed this image.
    Thank you for the advice.
  4. Bowlcut3x

    Bowlcut3x Full Member

    Jun 25, 2009
    Posted twice.
  5. Yankee802

    Yankee802 Super Member ECF Veteran

    Mar 13, 2010
    Panama City, Florida
    It looks a lot like the one that Drew sells at nHaler. Also why ordered the Bulli A2, looks much nicer than the one Drew sells. I think aesthetics are very important to most people and would not want such a large atty on their device, even if it works great. JMHO.
  6. Bowlcut3x

    Bowlcut3x Full Member

    Jun 25, 2009
    I understand the bottom image does. The top most image is more of what I am aiming for. I agree about a large device on the top. This is mostly why I wanted to make it smaller. And I did want to order the A2 instead of the Ato-Mizer mostly for that reason, however I didn't want to wait nearly a month to receive it. I regret that decision now though. The Ato-Mizer was $71.50 total with shipping and which looks amateur in comparison to the A2.
    Also, my design idea is to make it even quicker and simplier to change out the coil, lose the screws, with using pins. It'll be like plugging in a cable into the back of your tv kind of quick and easy. ha ha
    Remember, those images are the idea of the design in progress. I don't actually have a prototype just yet. :) Though, as soon as I do get one I will be sure to post some images, and maybe a video, of it here.

    *Oh... I think I can see also what you mean. In my images I show there being screws, 2 of them. These screws are there because the bottom of this unit is actually 2 pieces and the screws are used to hold them together. I'm sure it can be made of one piece, but another thing I find VERY useful is when something goes wrong, hopefully not for a long time ha ha, I want the owner to be able to take it completely apart and fix the problem.
    For example, after some time the wire going to the positive connection is starting to burn or melt the enamel coating around the wire because some, as I do, prefer to vape at higher voltage and instead of having to purchase a new one they can simply take the unit apart and solder in a new wire.
    I know this is not the norm, because many people now days are far more greedy and would rather make another sale instead of helping out someone that already invested money into their product.

    I hope this helps some.
  7. atavanhalen

    atavanhalen Ultra Member Verified Member ECF Veteran

    Isnt the point to make this easier than the a2 or ato mizer? by the looks of the design would every new coil need to be soldered onto the connective pins? or are you wanting to sell them pre soldered? I like the design but am just curious about that. I love the my a2 it has already saved me money. I also was not very happy with the ato mizer.
  8. Bowlcut3x

    Bowlcut3x Full Member

    Jun 25, 2009
    Yes, I want to have them come with 50 already pre-coiled and soldered. There will also be replacement pre-coiled and soldered wires/wicks that can be ordered. I don't know how much but I'm thinking they'll be in counts of 25 and come to about $6. Not really sure because I don't know what the cost of everything will be yet (wick, NiCrhome wire and pins). However, the price of NiChrome is only about $4 for 30ft and the wick I recently found at $0.40ft. I can't imagine it costing that much.

    There are 2 factors I have thought of in this scenario. One is that even the cheapest cartomizer I have seen is $1.50 and this will be AT MOST $0.25, so if in a pack of 25 that would only be $6.25 as opposed to 25 cartomizers $37.50, and I won't even get into atomizers being around $7.50 a piece. ha ha I can't even add up how much money I have spent over the past 2 years of vaping on attys.
    Unfortunately I went back to analogs for about 4 months, but that's another story for another day.
    Two, this will be simple and quick to replace. Also, I have tested a couple using a 25 pin D-Sub connector from Radio Shack and found that anyone even with the most basic beginners skill in soldering can simply solder on a new pin to the NiChrome if they wanted. I think I will make a video showing how to do this once I ever get this thing going. That mean the owner would then only have to pay for their NiChrome and wick. They could make as many in advance as they liked.
    Furthermore, just as the A2 and Ato-mizer, the elements needing replacement will be offered once the owner needed more.

    Great question. Thank you.
  9. Bowlcut3x

    Bowlcut3x Full Member

    Jun 25, 2009
    Just curious, did your Ato-Mizer also come with a standard flat-head screwdriver, and the unit having Philip screws as mine did?
  10. atavanhalen

    atavanhalen Ultra Member Verified Member ECF Veteran

    Thanks for the explanation. Wouldnt it be a little time consuming for you to solder 50 solder spots for 6.50? Tbh I would not mind doing it myself but there are a lot of people that would be put off by it. Do not take my criticism as deconstructive because I like the idea.

    And to answer your question, my ato mizer also came with a flat head screw driver and it kind of bummed me out. It does work though, just not as easy as if you had the phillips. It seems like if the atomizer has phillips head screws then it should have the corresponding screw driver.
  11. Bowlcut3x

    Bowlcut3x Full Member

    Jun 25, 2009
    Oh, not at all. I want as much feedback as possible. I honestly don't have every kink worked out and other opinions are of great help. Thank you.
    Yes, I can see there would be people not wanting to do this themselves. I see many people on this forum though that are more than capable and probably will. Though for those that are not, they can get them already done for them.
    I'm not in this so much for the money but a better system. For example; I don't think the Ato-Mizer is worth even close to what I paid. I am what most consider poverty level of income and even $65 is an expensive sacrifice (though still worth it considering the cost of attys). If I make a few bucks then great, but I'm not looking to quit my day job or retire. ha ha I want to be able to have these made as cheaply as possible so the price can be as little as possible. By cheap I don't mean quality like the Ato-Mizer but price wise. I honestly wouldn't mind soldering all the pins to the wire, because its not that difficult nor time consuming, but I hope to have the company making the unit also provide the NiChrome soldered to the pins, and I'll do the rest. Although, if they want to charge too much for this I will have no problems doing it myself. I don't see profit for that service. It's more of a making sure people are happy with their purchase and the customer service. I find this is a dying attribute of many companies now days.

    Thank you for your honest answer. I agree. The flat-head screwdriver is not only the wrong driver but also the wrong size. I fixed this problem with my Ato-Mizer by going to Walmart and spending $2 + tax for one of those glasses repair kits in a tube. It comes with a Philips screwdriver.
  12. VPJUNKIE510

    VPJUNKIE510 Moved On ECF Veteran

    Sep 4, 2010
    I have been wanting a A2 for sometime I just can't seem to get out of this slump, plus i would need both 510 and 901 since i like to go back and forth. As much as I would love to give advice I can't since its still new to me . But I do like the cone look. And I would also consider different sizes for different mods . Like my P18 would look so good if it had a top like a ego and cone. That look is universal for greatness .
  13. Para

    Para Ultra Member Verified Member ECF Veteran

    Aug 15, 2010
    Why the post and socket to connect the nic wire to the terminals? I love working with really small items; it would be a real challenge pushing the post into a socket...that's a mighty small item into a mighty small opening. I'd have to do it a few times to know for sure, but that alone will put people off. They want simple
  14. Brad524

    Brad524 Super Member Verified Member ECF Veteran

    Mar 5, 2010
    Manchester, NH
    The only issue I could see with the post and socket is the solder point breaking off and there's still lead solder. Possibly if the posts were more like a collet where the further down you push the pin in could vary based on the gauge of nichrome.
  15. Bowlcut3x

    Bowlcut3x Full Member

    Jun 25, 2009
    Ya, I know the feeling. That's where I've been for most my adult life, 15 years. Right now its pretty bad for me and my family. Although, it could always be worse. Like I said earlier, I'm at what's considered poverty level.
    Thank you for your feedback on the cone part. I came up with today another idea, just for something different... What if it were made of a heat resistant glass. Like how many electronics are made clear so you can see the electronic components inside. That would be so cool. :)

    Yes, I can see how this would seem challenging. Though, before I decided to use the connector pins I tested it out to see what the ease of plugging them in and taking out would be. It is very simple. I think it will be even more simple with some tweezers. I was using the pins in a D-SUb connector, like for VGA. I think the crimp type might even be more simple for many rather than the solder type. I'm still working out all the kinks in this idea. Right now its still only an idea in my head and some images on paper.
    Thank you so much for your insight.

    I'm sorry, I'm not sure I understand your statement fully. I think the solder issue is not a real factor considering all atomizers have used this for securing the Nichrome to the wires. I wouldn't use a lead solder but a lead-free.
    By collet do you mean like button snaps? If so, I feel that would make it more difficult to undo the connection. It would require more force to pull apart. The pins simple slide into one another, like putting a plug into an wall outlet, only they are so much smaller. ha ha
  16. KYFlyer67

    KYFlyer67 Senior Member Verified Member ECF Veteran

    Mar 20, 2010
    I've built a number of attys using posts and sockets to hold the coil. However, I don't use any solder. Just push the ends of the nichrome coil down in the tubes (sockets) and push in pins (posts) to hold the coil in place. It's very secure and very quick and easy to change out the coil. I've modified the build recently to allow for a genesis-style stainless steel wick - works well. I don't build to sell - just for my own use. I didn't come up with the original idea though. It all came from this thread:
  17. Brad524

    Brad524 Super Member Verified Member ECF Veteran

    Mar 5, 2010
    Manchester, NH
    [/QUOTE]I'm sorry, I'm not sure I understand your statement fully. I think the solder issue is not a real factor considering all atomizers have used this for securing the Nichrome to the wires. I wouldn't use a lead solder but a lead-free.
    By collet do you mean like button snaps? If so, I feel that would make it more difficult to undo the connection. It would require more force to pull apart. The pins simple slide into one another, like putting a plug into an wall outlet, only they are so much smaller. ha ha[/QUOTE]

    I'm not exactly speaking of you using leaded solder, but if people decided to do their own and happen to pick up the wrong solder. By collet I definately don't mean snaps, but similar to a clamp. The pin that the nichrome were to go on, or in, in this case, would have a hole in the center with at least two slits down the side. When the nichrome is placed into the post and inserted into the female "post" the slits would cause the pin to tighten up and hold onto the wire. as with your soldering idea the insertable "male" pins can be removed/inserted with tweezers or even hemostats. The pressure needed really wouldn't be great, just enough to make contact and not fall out when shaken or flipped upside down. This would cut way back on ordering coils, and you could just carry nichrome and wicking.

    Personaly I got a couple of A2's and an A1 to get away from solder in my vaping. I was experiencing melting solder and thats not very pleasant at all.
  18. nubee

    nubee Ultra Member ECF Veteran

    Jun 24, 2009
    IL, USA
    Might want to check out all the threads on the Genesis attys - loads of DIY connections/connectors/layouts/etc...

    Don't think you'd need to get one machined at first to test out your design
  19. Bowlcut3x

    Bowlcut3x Full Member

    Jun 25, 2009
    Wow! They say necessity is the mother of invention. ha ha I think this is very true with atomizers. We as e-cig vapors know that this has to be a better solution than replacing an atty every week or so and many have been coming up with alternatives. This has always been by far my favorite forum site for this reason. Other e-cig forums don't come close to comparing. :)
    Thank you KYFlyer67. The VR Plug on page 2 is almost like I envisioned this atomizer. I want is to be of stainless steel or possible aluminum and the post to be a bit longer, but its so similar and some proof that it'll work.

    Oooooh, ok. Yeah, that is a wonderful idea. Thank you. I think I really like it even more than using crimp type connectors for the male end.
    Thank you very much. I'll definitely have to experiment with this idea even further.

    Thanks nubee. I will have to check them out for sure. I have heard of the Genesis before but thought they were just another e-cig like most of the others. I think the last battery case I bought was a Prodigy V2.1 and was so disappointed. It never worked more than a couple days before having to completely clean the connector points in the switch. Before that one I has always used my trusty SB. But then when that switch finally fail, after a year or more, I have been making my own from $10 flashlights. So simple and just as superior I think as those $100 mods.
  20. Bowlcut3x

    Bowlcut3x Full Member

    Jun 25, 2009
    Alright... Looking further into Brad524's idea I have come to found a couple of other ideas. Something like a push-fit connector used in plumbing
    might work, or something like Sea Tech Quick Connect might also do the trick for a connection of new coils being free of solder. Though they would be made on a much much smaller scale.
    Here are a couple videos I found on YouTube to further demonstrate the idea

    Watch the video from about 1min 42sec to about 2min 20sec.

    ... or the push-fit.

    Then of course here is a quick render of the new idea, a clamp type connector. The inside is tapered to narrow down on the Nichrome wire,
    as well as the outside so to wedge into the connection point (the bottom ring. Also I think if there's a lip along the outside edge it'll make it easier to remove the wedge/clamp type connector. Any thoughts are greatly appreciated. Thank you.
    I know this is a pretty cheesy render but I'll put up a more professional one later.
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