I just got a stingray. My first mech mod. I just want to know how to tell the difference between an authentic and a clone
Authentic vs clone
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With the stingray it might be a bit hard, since it is an older model and has been cloned by many manufacturers. With mods that have so many clones I personally would only buy the authentic of it directly from the original manufacturer themselves to make sure its authentic. With the stingray it looks like a bunch of china clones look exactly like the authentic.
The SXK/Infinite ones aren't easy to differentiate from authentics. I have a Kepler as well from FT, and that one is easily identified as a clone.
I have the Infinite clone. The only way I could tell is the copper "flames" engraved on the side is beveled toward the center. From what I understand, the authentic is not.
diferences between authentic and clone.
authentic: made and sold by original MFG, better materials, better workmanship, costs more.
clone, might be made by original MFG probably not, could be same materials probably not, mass produced, cost less
authentic: made and sold by original MFG, better materials, better workmanship, costs more.
clone, might be made by original MFG probably not, could be same materials probably not, mass produced, cost less
The original Stingray has a crappy switch. The cloned stingrays have incredibly crappy switches.
As I recall, the Stingray clones came along pretty quickly. I bought an original authentic Stingray when they first came out. I was at a local vape meet, not long after, and a friend had a clone. By quick examination, they were indistinguishable. I didn't go so far as to completely disassemble them, to compare each part, side by side. Both had lousy switches. I still have mine, sitting on a shelf. I haven't used it in ages. IMO,, the original Stingray was nothing more than a feeble attempt at a Nemesis copycat.
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I have a black on copper Stingray clone by Infinite which looks fine but as pointed out by previous posters, it has a crunchy switch that requires a lot of fiddling. I also have an HCigar Stingray X which did a good job of duplicating the "improved" switch and it has been a trouble free part of my daily rotation ever since it was released.
Nice Thread title.
This one will likely turn into a typical runaway using your question as a platform for the never ending Canned Debates.
If you wish to own Originals of anything - Good luck. Even the finest artwork has been copied well enough to fool EXPERTS. Certificates of authenticity are often not worth the paper they are printed on.
Authentic - Purchased directly from the producer
Clone - anything you cannot trace directly back to the producer - (safe consideration)
Anyway, I have no opinion on either with exception to producers effort to produce a quality piece. Both have their purpose in a world where people accept and expect each.
No matter - If you are purchasing Used, never pay more than you are willing to lose.
This one will likely turn into a typical runaway using your question as a platform for the never ending Canned Debates.
If you wish to own Originals of anything - Good luck. Even the finest artwork has been copied well enough to fool EXPERTS. Certificates of authenticity are often not worth the paper they are printed on.
Authentic - Purchased directly from the producer
Clone - anything you cannot trace directly back to the producer - (safe consideration)
Anyway, I have no opinion on either with exception to producers effort to produce a quality piece. Both have their purpose in a world where people accept and expect each.
No matter - If you are purchasing Used, never pay more than you are willing to lose.
Well the real one is roughly 200 give or take
Like the other post where did you buy it and how much
Like the other post where did you buy it and how much
I have several authentic tube mods. I don't own any clones. The only two I own that I'd consider not to be worth the cost are the original Stingray and the EA.
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The only clones I have are some Tobeco attys. They are all garbage compared to the authentics.
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The only clone atty I own is a RM4, which is an Atomic clone, modified for bottom feed. It's on one of my Reos. Not the best machining or finishing, but it does the job.
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The OP hasn't come back, but am feeling very alone in being the only person who likes Stingrays, and don't have any switch problems . None of them crunch, and they always work. Even the crummy Kepler clone, but that one you have to hit dead center.
. None of them crunch, and they always work. Even the crummy Kepler clone, but that one you have to hit dead center.
I have an original Phantom Brass Stingray. I was curious and later bought an Infinite Stingray clone in a group buy when they first came out. I compared the clone to my authentic and it completely took the wind out of my sails - it was a near 1:1 copy. At first I thought that it was a conspiracy and that both were made in the same factory. The only differences that I could see were a slight difference in the air slots and the knurling on the negative post.
I loved the switch design but I agree that it can be a bit crunchy as it gets dirty. I don't use it that often because it patinas so very quickly and I'm reluctant to polish it often because the laser etchings will rub off (I wish they had engraved it like they did in subsequent versions).
I loved the switch design but I agree that it can be a bit crunchy as it gets dirty. I don't use it that often because it patinas so very quickly and I'm reluctant to polish it often because the laser etchings will rub off (I wish they had engraved it like they did in subsequent versions).
I have an authentic black copper Stingray and an Hcigar Stingray X clone . I've done some polishing on both switches initially and lubed them with graphite , basically speeded up the breakin process on them . They are my go to mods one or the other is always in my hand . They perform identically in voltage drop tests for the most part with the clone edging out the authentic slightly in hybrid mode . The clone and the authentic both have excellent threading , fit and finish , basically seamless . I'm supposed to be getting my hands on an authentic Stingray X Ti soon , can't wait to get my hands on it .
I have a couple of mechanicals the the hype were better than the mods, The only clone I have is a Vapor Flask V3 I wanted to see if it was really better them the real DNA 40 and IMO it is not Its not a bad mod and I can see why people like them but it dose not work as well as the real DNA 40. Im going to put a floating 510 and a genuine DNA40 it the clone body file off the branding and have a nice everyday mod I wont mind scratching or beating up a little.
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