Am I in the clear?

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mrbanhbao

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Nov 21, 2014
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I usually vape dual coils at .5 ohms. I received a spool of new fused clapton n the mail and just finished making some coils. Tried something new and my reading is .24 Ohms. I never vaped this low before so I went on Steam-Engine to see if I'm safe. It seem like I'll be alright if I stay under 50 Watt. Can someone confirmed that for me.

Joyetech Cuboid 150Watt
Dual LG HG2 batteries
Dual Fused Clapton coils equalling .24 Ohms

mwpa3a.png
 
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Sugar_and_Spice

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It looks right to me. You do know that by using 2 coils that the ohms are cut in half. So you built your .50 ohm coils but by adding them together, you get half the ohms of the build. So if you wanted to build dual coils that are in that .50 range you need to build 1.0 ohm coils.

Hope this makes sense.

:)
 
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mrbanhbao

Full Member
Nov 21, 2014
27
11
Seattle, WA
It looks right to me. You do know that by using 2 coils that the ohms are cut in half. So you built your .50 ohm coils but by adding them together, you get half the ohms of the build. So if you wanted to build dual coils that are in that .50 range you need to build 1.0 ohm coils.

Hope this makes sense.

:)
Yea that make sense to me. I didnt calculate how big my screwdriver was and the thickness of my wire. But I don't think I can get to 1.0 ohm per coil. The wires are 36AWG wrapped around fused 26AWG claptons. I think my screwdriver is about 3mm.
 

Sugar_and_Spice

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Yea that make sense to me. I didnt calculate how big my screwdriver was and the thickness of my wire. But I don't think I can get to 1.0 ohm per coil. The wires are 36AWG wrapped around fused 26AWG claptons. I think my screwdriver is about 3mm.
Yeah, I thought of that. Good thing wire is fairly inexpensive.
But I still think you will be ok with what you have, you just have to turn the watts down.

:)
 

mrbanhbao

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Nov 21, 2014
27
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Seattle, WA
Resistance doesn't factor into the amp draw on regulated mods. Watts and cutoff voltage do. With those batteries you're good up to about 120w, no matter the resistance.

Sent from my M7_PLUS using Tapatalk


Oh really. I didn't know that. This whole day, I been stagnant at 45 watt and it takes so long for the ramp up and the hit isn't as a good. Once I'm off work, I'm bump that .... up. Also why is it taking longer for ramp up when it's less resistance? Doesn't make sense to me.
 

Layzee Vaper

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Oh really. I didn't know that. This whole day, I been stagnant at 45 watt and it takes so long for the ramp up and the hit isn't as a good. Once I'm off work, I'm bump that .... up. Also why is it taking longer for ramp up when it's less resistance? Doesn't make sense to me.

You will have much more wire to heat up than you did before. You have to strike a balance between the amount of wire you have to heat up, and the amount of power you want to use. It sounds like you are not using enough power to heat the coils effectively.

If you put the details of the coil and the power level into steam engine you will you can get a good estimate of how hot the coil will be using the heat flux value. The higher the number the hotter the coil. The heat capacity number will also give you an idea of how fast the coil will heat up and cool down again.

In practise with a regulated mod you can build just about any coil you want, and then slowly raise the power until the coil gets hot enough quickly enough to get the vape you want.
 
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zoiDman

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... Also why is it taking longer for ramp up when it's less resistance? Doesn't make sense to me.

Ramp-Up (and Ramp-Down) Time has to do with the Resistance of the Wire Alloy, the Heat Capabilities of an Alloy, and How Much Wire has to be Heated/Cooled.

And think for a second about what Resistance is? And what is the By-Product of Resistance for us?

If I have a Thick Wire, the Resistance will be Less than a Thin Wire of the same Alloy. If Heat is created due to Resistance, then then the Thick Wire isn't going to get as "Hot" as the Thin Wire. And it Isn't going to do it as Fast as Thin Wire.

Low Ohm Builds (Any Ohm Builds) using Lots of Wire Mass heat up more Slowly than the same Low Ohm Build (Any Ohm Builds) using Less Wire Mass.
 
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NU_FTW

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I usually vape dual coils at .5 ohms. I received a spool of new fused clapton n the mail and just finished making some coils. Tried something new and my reading is .24 Ohms. I never vaped this low before so I went on Steam-Engine to see if I'm safe. It seem like I'll be alright if I stay under 50 Watt. Can someone confirmed that for me.

Joyetech Cuboid 150Watt
Dual LG HG2 batteries
Dual Fused Clapton coils equalling .24 Ohms

mwpa3a.png
Regulated mod means the COIL's Ohms do not matter. Instead you want to Divide your output wattage by the nominal voltage. So if you have 2 batteries and your device requires BOTH to operate that means they are in a series and not parallel which means you add the voltage together. So Take your wattage and divide it by 6.2 that will give you a close amp draw +/- 10%
 

NU_FTW

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Oh really. I didn't know that. This whole day, I been stagnant at 45 watt and it takes so long for the ramp up and the hit isn't as a good. Once I'm off work, I'm bump that .... up. Also why is it taking longer for ramp up when it's less resistance? Doesn't make sense to me.
More current can flow before making it hot. Think about it like filling a cup full of water ( smaller wire - higher resistance) vs filling a gallon jug of water ( thicker wire - less resistance) the cup is going to fill up faster if the flow of water (wattage) is the same. To compensate and get same "fill up" (ramp up) time you would increase the flow rate of the water ( wattage ) to fill up the gallon jug as fast (ramps up in time)

That is the easiest way to explain it without being technical :D
 

mrbanhbao

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Nov 21, 2014
27
11
Seattle, WA
Ramp-Up (and Ramp-Down) Time has to do with the Resistance of the Wire Alloy, the Heat Capabilities of an Alloy, and How Much Wire has to be Heated/Cooled.

And think for a second about what Resistance is? And what is the By-Product of Resistance for us?

If I have a Thick Wire, the Resistance will be Less than a Thin Wire of the same Alloy. If Heat is created due to Resistance, then then the Thick Wire isn't going to get as "Hot" as the Thin Wire. And it Isn't going to do it as Fast as Thin Wire.

Low Ohm Builds (Any Ohm Builds) using Lots of Wire Mass heat up more Slowly than the same Low Ohm Build (Any Ohm Builds) using Less Wire Mass.

I see that make sense now, before I was at .5 Ohm and it was with less and thinner wire. Now It's thicker wire and more wire i believed for fused clapton
 
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mrbanhbao

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Nov 21, 2014
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Seattle, WA
Regulated mod means the COIL's Ohms do not matter. Instead you want to Divide your output wattage by the nominal voltage. So if you have 2 batteries and your device requires BOTH to operate that means they are in a series and not parallel which means you add the voltage together. So Take your wattage and divide it by 6.2 that will give you a close amp draw +/- 10%

Okay that is simple but can I ask where you get 6.2 from? Is that the 2 batteries voltage added together?
 

Layzee Vaper

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Okay that is simple but can I ask where you get 6.2 from? Is that the 2 batteries voltage added together?

Most regulated mods have a minimum battery voltage of between 3 and 3.2 volts per cell. In a regulated mod most current is drawn from the battery when it approaches the lower cut off point.
 

zoiDman

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I see that make sense now, before I was at .5 Ohm and it was with less and thinner wire. Now It's thicker wire and more wire i believed for fused clapton

Yeah... I really Don't Like a slow Ramp-Up. But I Absolutely Hate a slow Ramp Down. So I use mostly Single Wire Builds of middle of the road thickness wire.

One way you can Help the Ramp-Up for something like a Clapton is to use NiChrome 80 vs. Kanthal. Or use a Stainless Steel like 316 or 316L.
 

NU_FTW

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Okay that is simple but can I ask where you get 6.2 from? Is that the 2 batteries voltage added together?
As long as the mod you are using is series and not parallel you will add the voltage of the 2 batteries together. You use 3.1 because that is the low/dead battery for a lot of mods or around that range, it is also the range where the most amps will be drawn from the battery.

How do you test without looking up if it is in series... simple put 1 battery in... if it turns on it is parallel. If it doesnt turn on it is series. When you finish your calculations you can then multiply by 1.1 to get your likely MAX possible draw, this would account for the chip efficiency etc.
 

Bunnykiller

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Oh really. I didn't know that. This whole day, I been stagnant at 45 watt and it takes so long for the ramp up and the hit isn't as a good. Once I'm off work, I'm bump that .... up. Also why is it taking longer for ramp up when it's less resistance? Doesn't make sense to me.

for the same reason it takes forever to get to 60 mph in 1st gear ;)
 
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