ANY Recomendationss for high end RTAS

[Xcurrent93]

Ph

Mother of God, you're already very well covered for tanks!

For singles, the Ammit has been getting lots of love in my groups, and old school, the Lemo 2 is a classic.

The Conqueror is the serpent's big brother... while a dual with very good airflow, it's become the favourite at my house as it's so versatile, and there is a "mini" version that might be more your liking.

The K24: $7.78 KENNEDY 24 Styled RDA Rebuildable Dripping Atomizer - stainless steel + glass / 24mm diameter at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping

It's tricky to build (3 post and needs to fit the inner glass)

For SS316L, the trick with it is mass... especially with single coils. Not enough wire/mass and the TC isn't going to register well.

And 26G is becoming my favourite, and as far as recommendation, simply try and fit the largest spaced coil on your decks, the Ohms should be from around 0.4 to higher.

Right now, my Conqueror that I have with me, is reading at 0.77ohm (dual) and it's as close to perfection for warmth, thickness of the vapour, perfectly balanced with the airflow....

More and more, as I use TC pretty much all the time, am not a cloud chaser (but can run with most of them easily), I tend to not bother with the ohm range (as long as it's over 0.2ohm) as much as many do. This tank being 0.77, my other one could be 0.4, 0.3, 0.9 and just be adjusting the wattage and Temp, I can get an excellent vape out of them (near identical). I tend to aim for around the 0.4 when I snip my wire and go with what I end up with.

I just consider it more important that the coil be well done, spaced well, positioned and properly wicked.

I believe that most times that someone can't get a good experience it's due that they can't get the coil right (hot spots/position/etc.), or can't get the wicking right.

and I have non RTAs like my KABUKI amd others. (Since I am self taught I had to build up to and get comfortable before I made my own) sold sold most of them. The only one I will keep and I like very very much is the Kabuki

Yeah, but it's still something that's always "there" should you accidentally dry burn one.

I do use NI200 (30/28/26G) for some builds, but those are my cartridge rebuilds mostly. Since I've been switching to RTAs, I got SS to work well and find that I really don't feed the need to go back to NI.

Heck, I go my wife and daughter with RTAs now and the old cartridge tanks have been "forgotten"... (and guess who's stuck rebuilding all these tanks..)

That flavour is probably the "coating" they add to the wire... another reason why I'd rather use a wire that I can heat up if only a bit to burn this layer of oil (or such) off before I wick it.

And while I rarely make a coil that's not "perfect" on the first try (no hot spot), I still prefer to very gently glow them to ensure that they are fine (and balanced as with duals, they need to be).

Haha I can totally see that happening. i am very glad i went to rta, I like to tinker it is cheaper by far now I don't even look at the factory ones, except the kabuki, I will keep it as a back up for emergencies. I am also glad I went to making my own e-liquid. Do you buy your wore at temco? That is where I get it. I avoid buying through the vape sites since they Jackson the price. I don't ever glow or pre-burn. Since they are spaces and the wire do not touch, it will never have hot spot. I jumped right into tc, and jumped over the kanthal and all that fun. I do prefer tc.


So this deck has the wicking that are like tails that go into a exposed well on the edge. There is a screw that closes the air flow but you have to plug the wells or else it will flood. It is advised to use cotton to plug. Seems like a waste to me. I carved some plastic to fit I'm the wells. Since it is plastic the bell acts like a tap and die and cuts grooves I in the plastic plugs to create a great seal. You just have to make sure it is easy enough to screw on to cut the grooves. Here are pictures

 

[Xcurrent93]

Yeah, but it's still something that's always "there" should you accidentally dry burn one.

I do use NI200 (30/28/26G) for some builds, but those are my cartridge rebuilds mostly. Since I've been switching to RTAs, I got SS to work well and find that I really don't feed the need to go back to NI.

Heck, I go my wife and daughter with RTAs now and the old cartridge tanks have been "forgotten"... (and guess who's stuck rebuilding all these tanks..)

That flavour is probably the "coating" they add to the wire... another reason why I'd rather use a wire that I can heat up if only a bit to burn this layer of oil (or such) off before I wick it.

And while I rarely make a coil that's not "perfect" on the first try (no hot spot), I still prefer to very gently glow them to ensure that they are fine (and balanced as with duals, they need to be).

What tcr are uou setting got 316l
I usually am around 230 c and 22-30 joules for my TI builds wich are around .25-.5ohm

Where are you outing your temp at. I understand that is the most important and the joules is essentially the ramp up speed

 

[Imfallen_Angel]

What tcr are uou setting got 316l
I usually am around 230 c and 22-30 joules for my TI builds wich are around .25-.5ohm

Where are you outing your temp at. I understand that is the most important and the joules is essentially the ramp up speed

With the chinese mods, I just use the normal SS setting and it works just fine. (the standard should be around 88 or 0.00094 depending on your device's setting approach)

With my DNA, I manually adjusted my SS curve to get a decent vape... the original settings on my device were horrible.

-100: 0.879
68:1
800:1.529

This might not be the greatest settings but after a few days of tweaking, the mod finally does work just fine with these. I might play more with it at some point.

Looking at my mods (as I'm home for lunch)
1) 26G - 0.77 - 45W - 390F (Conqueror)
2) 26G - 0.44 - 50W - 420F (Conqueror)
3) 28G - 0.28 - 35W - 480F (Crius)
4) 26G - 0.26 - 45W - 390F (K24 on the DNA)

(I don't count the wraps anymore, I go by the Ohm that I test my wire first before cutting it at whatever ohm I fell like doing, and cut that in half, and match them for the dual builds)

Each coil is different, but the end result for how the vape is is near identical.

 

[lil_buddy]

I'd generally agree with cf11's & Tonee's lists. With Amit's list I haven't heard of any of them until I hit the last one.

As crazy as this may sound I find I am preferring the Wismec Theorem over any of the RTA's I own and are listed above. Not sure why I like it so much. It gives good cloud & taste but so do the others. It has a so so air flow adjustment but I just lock it at half way and simply leave it there. It only holds about 2 or 3 mls of liquid but since I normally have more than one with me that isn't a concern. It is simple and quick to rewick and the notched 0.20 to 0.25 notched coils work very well and can be dry burned and brushed clean for weeks before needing replacement. A few days ago I got one of the notched coils into my Avocado and was pleased with the results though not so much that it replaced any of my many Theorems.

Almost forgot to mention that Theorems are currently available from Efuntop for $10 each. Maybe that's why I like them.

I don't have one, but I really like how you can see everything especially the wick. I often find myself wondering if I burned my wick, but don't want to take everything apart to check.

 

[Imfallen_Angel]

View attachment 664417 View attachment 664419 View attachment 664421 View attachment 664417 Ph

and I have non RTAs like my KABUKI amd others. (Since I am self taught I had to build up to and get comfortable before I made my own) sold sold most of them. The only one I will keep and I like very very much is the Kabuki

Haha I can totally see that happening. i am very glad i went to rta, I like to tinker it is cheaper by far now I don't even look at the factory ones, except the kabuki, I will keep it as a back up for emergencies. I am also glad I went to making my own e-liquid. Do you buy your wore at temco? That is where I get it. I avoid buying through the vape sites since they Jackson the price. I don't ever glow or pre-burn. Since they are spaces and the wire do not touch, it will never have hot spot. I jumped right into tc, and jumped over the kanthal and all that fun. I do prefer tc.

So this deck has the wicking that are like tails that go into a exposed well on the edge. There is a screw that closes the air flow but you have to plug the wells or else it will flood. It is advised to use cotton to plug. Seems like a waste to me. I carved some plastic to fit I'm the wells. Since it is plastic the bell acts like a tap and die and cuts grooves I in the plastic plugs to create a great seal. You just have to make sure it is easy enough to screw on to cut the grooves. Here are pictures

hmm.. the reason why it would say to use cotton is that the plastic could leach, especially as tanks do get hot... unless you can find some ceramic pins, I would look at alternatives. Putting in very tight cotton (stuff the heck of it) should work.

I get most of my hardware via Fasttech.

For hot spots, it can still happen, rare but possible, more if the spacing is small with a many wrap coil... but like I said, I really do it as a minimum more to ensure that the dual builds are firing evenly.

And excellent job on your wicking there, you have the coil's edges done perfectly right! (with the cotton going a bit up, ensuring the coil's edge is full)

The one possible recommendation is to lift the cotton's ends/tips just a tiny bit to allow the liquid to get under it in the wells to pull it better.. if you fray it a tiny bit just to have a itsy-bitsy amount of strands in there, even better. You might already do this, but can't tell from the picture.



But overall, very "pro" for someone that's still so "young" in this, you most certainly could give pointers to a few .

 

[Xcurrent93]

With the chinese mods, I just use the normal SS setting and it works just fine. (the standard should be around 88 or 0.00094 depending on your device's setting approach)

With my DNA, I manually adjusted my SS curve to get a decent vape... the original settings on my device were horrible.

-100: 0.879
68:1
800:1.529

This might not be the greatest settings but after a few days of tweaking, the mod finally does work just fine with these. I might play more with it at some point.

Looking at my mods (as I'm home for lunch)
1) 26G - 0.77 - 45W - 390F (Conqueror)
2) 26G - 0.44 - 50W - 420F (Conqueror)
3) 28G - 0.28 - 35W - 480F (Crius)
4) 26G - 0.26 - 45W - 390F (K24 on the DNA)

(I don't count the wraps anymore, I go by the Ohm that I test my wire first before cutting it at whatever ohm I fell like doing, and cut that in half, and match them for the dual builds)

Each coil is different, but the end result for how the vape is is near identical.[/QUOTE

It came in at .75 ohm
I think I l kinda do the same. I don't count I just make it fit a nice as possible. My Q class does not have a preset for 316l it only has preset for 304 stainless. So I have used tcr from .89-91 i still have not played with the computer program where I can control the curve a set my own. I was at 390f for a long Time (200c) but Lower joules ~27-35j. I think It is almost 1:1 for watts to joules but that ratio will change With temp or time, I can't remember but I can tell a diff in flavor

So let me make sure I understand. You test the wire before you cut.?

I wrap/install/ Cut the legs.

It sounded like you test it straight. Then cut that wire in 1/2 to have = ohms on each coil.

 

[Xcurrent93]

O

hmm.. the reason why it would say to use


O

hmm.. the reason why it would say to use cotton is that the plastic could leach, especially as tanks do get hot... unless you can find some ceramic pins, I would look at alternatives. Putting in very tight cotton (stuff the heck of it) should work.

I get most of my hardware via Fasttech.

For hot spots, it can still happen, rare but possible, more if the spacing is small with a many wrap coil... but like I said, I really do it as a minimum more to ensure that the dual builds are firing evenly.

And excellent job on your wicking there, you have the coil's edges done perfectly right! (with the cotton going a bit up, ensuring the coil's edge is full)

The one possible recommendation is to lift the cotton's ends/tips just a tiny bit to allow the liquid to get under it in the wells to pull it better.. if you fray it a tiny bit just to have a itsy-bitsy amount of strands in there, even better. You might already do this, but can't tell from the picture.



But overall, very "pro" for someone that's still so "young" in this, you most certainly could give pointers to a few .

Oh, thanks for the compliment. It is just above the bottom and taporerd to a point. I fluff the whole cotton (even inside the coil) I pull it 1/2 way out on each side and makes sure the cotton is frayed or broken up. I have only been building for a few months so I really appreciate it, it just makes Sense to do it that way. although, to be fair, I used to be a tradesman and I am very good with my hands. I am a master blacksmith. And certified welder in a types and positions.

I get what you are saying about it becoming hot. Although it has not gotten hot and other attys have used plastic plugs. It would be hard pressed to melt since it is sitting in e-liguid which will act as a coolant. I do have some ceramic I can use. That would insure it staying safe. Thanks for the recommendation.

I get stuff from fast tech as well but certain things it's cheaper elsewhere. Wire and all all e-liquid supplies are better to get elsewhere. Look at temco
Here is the link for their site/to the wire section.

Resistance Wire - Wire, Cable & Accessories - Shop TEMCo Industrial

 

[Imfallen_Angel]

O
Oh, thanks for the compliment. It is just above the bottom and taporerd to a point. I fluff the whole cotton (even inside the coil) I pull it 1/2 way out on each side and makes sure the cotton is frayed or broken up. I have only been building for a few months so I really appreciate it, it just makes Sense to do it that way. although, to be fair, I used to be a tradesman and I am very good with my hands. I am a master blacksmith. And certified welder in a types and positions.

I get what you are saying about it becoming hot. Although it has not gotten hot and other attys have used plastic plugs. It would be hard pressed to melt since it is sitting in e-liguid which will act as a coolant. I do have some ceramic I can use. That would insure it staying safe. Thanks for the recommendation.

I get stuff from fast tech as well but certain things it's cheaper elsewhere. Wire and all all e-liquid supplies are better to get elsewhere. Look at temco
Here is the link for their site/to the wire section.

Resistance Wire - Wire, Cable & Accessories - Shop TEMCo Industrial

I do DIY also (for a while now), so I have a few suppliers that I deal with.. the number of them is limited but overall acceptable, I just wish one would open in my city that I could simply pick things up.

For Temco and others, trouble is the shipping is just crazy from the US, plus ordering from the states have been a pain (at the borders, they tack on fees like crazy) for just about everything, so I avoid it if possible.

 

[Xcurrent93]

I do DIY also (for a while now), so I have a few suppliers that I deal with.. the number of them is limited but overall acceptable, I just wish one would open in my city that I could simply pick things up.

For Temco and others, trouble is the shipping is just crazy from the US, plus ordering from the states have been a pain (at the borders, they tack on fees like crazy) for just about everything, so I avoid it if possible.

Ahh.. I see...I always do the math. Sometimes it's Worth paying shipping/ how long till I receive. And quality of product. For me temco is worth it. I don't get those fees importing into the states. I usually order from England, China (fastest) and US. I wish I could ho pick it up local too, I can with some stuff but I pay far more for the convience to do so. I see now about the hot spots.
i still confused on cutting were to ohm

I do DIY also (for a while now), so I have a few suppliers that I deal with.. the number of them is limited but overall acceptable, I just wish one would open in my city that I could simply pick things up.

For Temco and others, trouble is the shipping is just crazy from the US, plus ordering from the states have been a pain (at the borders, they tack on fees like crazy) for just about everything, so I avoid it if possible.

 

[stormjib]

If you can find one, the Hurricane 1.3 is a great single coil rta. I run the aqua2 as well, but I do that in dual coil..another rta is the Cthulhu mtl tank, it's not really high end but it gives a very nice vape. A bunch of ones that I'd like to try, like the Hussar and the Squapes, other people have mentioned. My two main rtas are the Hurricane 1.3 and the Cthulhu v2, which is an old design...aqua2 and mtl tanks are always wicked and ready to go too.

 

[Xcurrent93]

If you can find one, the Hurricane 1.3 is a great single coil rta. I run the aqua2 as well, but I do that in dual coil..another rta is the Cthulhu mtl tank, it's not really high end but it gives a very nice vape. A bunch of ones that I'd like to try, like the Hussar and the Squapes, other people have mentioned. My two main rtas are the Hurricane 1.3 and the Cthulhu v2, which is an old design...aqua2 and mtl tanks are always wicked and ready to go too.

I will have to give The hurricane a try. I don't mind used if it wa taken care of.

It does not have to be high end, I just want quality, Ease of use and good flavor.

I highly recommend the squape X series. It has amazing flavor and the ease of accessing the deck. locking it so it won't leak (even if it is in your pocket not attached to the deck) and vape mode is the best. You don't screw it on and off. Like the aqua or kafun 5, You twist it and it locks into position. I also love the looks.( it looks like a robot) Extremely well machined My only complaint, More like a downside, is the screws are tiny, and some may not like it has one post hole to be used for 2 coils. I liked it so much I bought 3 of the 4 styles and the extension piece. With the extension you can have so many variations of qty of e liquid.

I have also discovered I don't like liquid control. I don't mind on/off. But the golliath v2/ taifun gt3 are a little bit of a pain to work with.

 

[Xcurrent93]

Ahh.. I see...I always do the math. Sometimes it's Worth paying shipping/ how long till I receive. And quality of product. For me temco is worth it. I don't get those fees importing into the states. I usually order from England, China (fastest) and US. I wish I could ho pick it up local too, I can with some stuff but I pay far more for the convience to do so. I see now about the hot spots.
i still confused on cutting were to ohm

Why do you like dual coil over single? I understand principle of more surface area = more flavor. I for one have not seen that much of a difference. I keep going back and forth. Maybe using SS with Change my mind since the ohms are higher so easier to cut in 1/2.

 

[vapdivrr]

I'd generally agree with cf11's & Tonee's lists. With Amit's list I haven't heard of any of them until I hit the last one.

Amit's list of hi end rta's is actually correct, and are truly hi end. all are well known but take some effort to obtain (some anyways). The other lists that you agree with are just rtas , and imo don't fall into the category of high end. In the end though, I'm sure the OP was thinking along the lines of your preferred list of rta's and probably wasn't thinking of real high end rta's in the 100 to 250 dollar range



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[vapdivrr]

Almost forgot to mention that Theorems are currently available from Efuntop for $10 each. Maybe that's why I like them.

10 bucks each for a High End rta?



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[Imfallen_Angel]

10 bucks each for a High End rta?



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And the Mona Lisa is about 20$ worth of canvas and paint...

Things are worth what people will pay for it, or sell it for.

 

[Imfallen_Angel]

Amit's list of hi end rta's is actually correct, and are truly hi end. all are well known but take some effort to obtain (some anyways). The other lists that you agree with are just rtas , and imo don't fall into the category of high end. In the end though, I'm sure the OP was thinking along the lines of your preferred list of rta's and probably wasn't thinking of real high end rta's in the 100 to 250 dollar range



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He already stated that "high end" meant "quality, ease of use and flavour", and I absolutely agree with that description.

 

[batteredwombat]

kayfun 5, tried all the rest and only thing that is on par is rose v3 just cuz it keeps wicking better. I hear the skyline is a fancy version of kayfun is good but good luck getting that from ecg. but like the other guy posted high end rta ecig forum , they cray

 

[batteredwombat]

And the Mona Lisa is about 20$ worth of canvas and paint...

Things are worth what people will pay for it, or sell it for.

so true man.. got an authentic then the clone, the airflow holes are different not as nice a drag

 

[batteredwombat]

10 bucks each for a High End rta?



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if only i spent 10 bucks for my rtas, mabey i wouldnt be broke. )

 

[Imfallen_Angel]

if only i spent 10 bucks for my rtas, mabey i wouldnt be broke. )

My K24 (I provided the link on a previous comment) is the best flavour RTA I've found.. it's technically a RDA with a glass double dome, but still it was 10$ and has out-shined everything else. If I can find a two post deck that the dome would fit, I'd give that a try as the three posts decks are always a pain.. but for a 10$ clone, it's quality is quite fine, considering that the "authentic" would be over 100$, and since being discontinued, someone was telling me that he's seen them sell for up to 300$ on eBay..

All my RTAs have been about 15 to 40$, and I just can't qualify a reason to spend more than that for any tank.

It's pretty much the fancy 150K vs a 25-35K car analogy.. both get you there, and a good lower priced car can absolutely do the job just fine without the diamond and gold dashboard.