I'm enjoying the rebuildable deck for the Kabuki. I get two weeks from one, and then it only requires a rewicking. so far, two months for a coil. Just dry burn, and rewick.
Like the flavor just fine!
Knife
Like the flavor just fine!
Knife
Anybody Using A Kabuki?
- Thread starter jwbnyc
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You must have the patience of a saint. I was ready to harm small mammals within the first couple hours.
Sent with my communicator by Tapatalk[emoji92]
Thx. If I try to be funny, I should make sure the few words in my reply are correct.Worlds or words?
Well, since I haven't received a shipping notice from IBTanked on the replacement glass that I ordered on the 9th, I went ahead and ordered a couple from ProVape this morning. The Summer code still worked! If you are in a hurry for replacement glass, do not order from IBTanked.
Has anyone tried the cheap Kabuki glass from FT?
I have lots of HoH glass, steel and poly tanks, but I was thinking about adding 10 cheap ones to the stash just in case.
I have lots of HoH glass, steel and poly tanks, but I was thinking about adding 10 cheap ones to the stash just in case.
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Yep, learning the rbd for the Kabuki took some time for sure. But after a few builds, the tricks revealed themselves. Takes less than ten minutes to completely rebuild. I'm old, and move like Mole Asses!
Knife
Knife
I wish I had a way to do a vid. What is the hardest part for most in rebuilding the rbd? I will try to address the issues with it.
Knife
Knife
Securing the bottom coil leg with a vertical coil for sure for me! Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
I put the coil on a smaller than usual, tooth pic made from bamboo. Only use this because a hard object like a drill bit or screw driver bit will allow it to slip. Put the coil on the bottom of tool, place the tool into the air hole, and press the coil down with tweezers until the bottom leg goes into the hole for the screw detention. Tighten and done.
Now here's the trick I learned. Cut a strip of kgd, between 3/16 to under 1/4" wide, by 1" long. Split it in half. Do not separate the surface layer from the cotton.
On the down leg side, with the tool still thru the coil, and in the Air Hole, simi wrap the kgd around it on the leg side of the coil. Now use a shoe shine motion, while placing light downward pressure on the ends of the cotton. This will thread the cotton down the coil, with the ends of the wick sticking out of the slots on either side of the dect cut outs.
Clip both ends of the cotton even with the slots.
Next, the High side leg. Do Not put it in the secure hole. With the tool still in the air hole, and thru the coil, Gently take a pair of needle point tweezers and bend the top leed wire to the left, as if un-wrapping the coil. (This can only be done easily if the coil was properly heated (annealed) before installation.
With the coil wire pointing out of the left slot, and slightly bent back clockwise, you can now use the same shoe shine motion on the top leg side of the coil until seated where you want it.
The hard part is now complete. While the tool is still in the coil, tightly re-wrap the coil lead, (top) clockwise, and insert the end in the retention hole. Keep forward pressure on the tool in the coil until you have tightened the retention screw. Once done, tilt the tool back toward the down leg side of the coil. This will tighten the coils, and straighten them.
Almost done now. Lightly shoeshine the top lead side cotton to bring it up to the top of the coil.
Clip the excess cotton, slightly proud of the slots. You will need the extra length in the next step.
Saturate the wick, both around the coil, and the cotton passing thru the slots.
Use the tip of the screwdriver you tightened the leeds with, and lightly press the excess cotton into the slots.
Whew!!! It sure took a LOT Longer to type this than to do it! And each time I rebuild, it gets quicker and easier.
A huge help is to use a magnifying head set, or table mounted magnifier. It is small, with tinyscrews!
Now here's the trick I learned. Cut a strip of kgd, between 3/16 to under 1/4" wide, by 1" long. Split it in half. Do not separate the surface layer from the cotton.
On the down leg side, with the tool still thru the coil, and in the Air Hole, simi wrap the kgd around it on the leg side of the coil. Now use a shoe shine motion, while placing light downward pressure on the ends of the cotton. This will thread the cotton down the coil, with the ends of the wick sticking out of the slots on either side of the dect cut outs.
Clip both ends of the cotton even with the slots.
Next, the High side leg. Do Not put it in the secure hole. With the tool still in the air hole, and thru the coil, Gently take a pair of needle point tweezers and bend the top leed wire to the left, as if un-wrapping the coil. (This can only be done easily if the coil was properly heated (annealed) before installation.
With the coil wire pointing out of the left slot, and slightly bent back clockwise, you can now use the same shoe shine motion on the top leg side of the coil until seated where you want it.
The hard part is now complete. While the tool is still in the coil, tightly re-wrap the coil lead, (top) clockwise, and insert the end in the retention hole. Keep forward pressure on the tool in the coil until you have tightened the retention screw. Once done, tilt the tool back toward the down leg side of the coil. This will tighten the coils, and straighten them.
Almost done now. Lightly shoeshine the top lead side cotton to bring it up to the top of the coil.
Clip the excess cotton, slightly proud of the slots. You will need the extra length in the next step.
Saturate the wick, both around the coil, and the cotton passing thru the slots.
Use the tip of the screwdriver you tightened the leeds with, and lightly press the excess cotton into the slots.
Whew!!! It sure took a LOT Longer to type this than to do it! And each time I rebuild, it gets quicker and easier.
A huge help is to use a magnifying head set, or table mounted magnifier. It is small, with tiny
screws!
So... What yer saying is, Ya gotta be a watch builder to build on that teeny tiny deck?!?I put the coil on a smaller than usual, tooth pic made from bamboo. Only use this because a hard object like a drill bit or screw driver bit will allow it to slip. Put the coil on the bottom of tool, place the tool into the air hole, and press the coil down with tweezers until the bottom leg goes into the hole for the screw detention. Tighten and done.
Now here's the trick I learned. Cut a strip of kgd, between 3/16 to under 1/4" wide, by 1" long. Split it in half. Do not separate the surface layer from the cotton.
On the down leg side, with the tool still thru the coil, and in the Air Hole, simi wrap the kgd around it on the leg side of the coil. Now use a shoe shine motion, while placing light downward pressure on the ends of the cotton. This will thread the cotton down the coil, with the ends of the wick sticking out of the slots on either side of the dect cut outs.
Clip both ends of the cotton even with the slots.
Next, the High side leg. Do Not put it in the secure hole. With the tool still in the air hole, and thru the coil, Gently take a pair of needle point tweezers and bend the top leed wire to the left, as if un-wrapping the coil. (This can only be done easily if the coil was properly heated (annealed) before installation.
With the coil wire pointing out of the left slot, and slightly bent back clockwise, you can now use the same shoe shine motion on the top leg side of the coil until seated where you want it.
The hard part is now complete. While the tool is still in the coil, tightly re-wrap the coil lead, (top) clockwise, and insert the end in the retention hole. Keep forward pressure on the tool in the coil until you have tightened the retention screw. Once done, tilt the tool back toward the down leg side of the coil. This will tighten the coils, and straighten them.
Almost done now. Lightly shoeshine the top lead side cotton to bring it up to the top of the coil.
Clip the excess cotton, slightly proud of the slots. You will need the extra length in the next step.
Saturate the wick, both around the coil, and the cotton passing thru the slots.
Use the tip of the screwdriver you tightened the leeds with, and lightly press the excess cotton into the slots.
Whew!!! It sure took a LOT Longer to type this than to do it! And each time I rebuild, it gets quicker and easier.
A huge help is to use a magnifying head set, or table mounted magnifier. It is small, with tiny
I took the grub screws out of the VVTF to clean it after I first got it. It took me about an hour of squinting and swearing just to get the grub screws back in.
Or.... I could send under $10 to a nice person thru my computer and they will send me 5 already made coils thru the mail.I put the coil on a smaller than usual, tooth pic made from bamboo. Only use this because a hard object like a drill bit or screw driver bit will allow it to slip. Put the coil on the bottom of tool, place the tool into the air hole, and press the coil down with tweezers until the bottom leg goes into the hole for the screw detention. Tighten and done.
Now here's the trick I learned. Cut a strip of kgd, between 3/16 to under 1/4" wide, by 1" long. Split it in half. Do not separate the surface layer from the cotton.
On the down leg side, with the tool still thru the coil, and in the Air Hole, simi wrap the kgd around it on the leg side of the coil. Now use a shoe shine motion, while placing light downward pressure on the ends of the cotton. This will thread the cotton down the coil, with the ends of the wick sticking out of the slots on either side of the dect cut outs.
Clip both ends of the cotton even with the slots.
Next, the High side leg. Do Not put it in the secure hole. With the tool still in the air hole, and thru the coil, Gently take a pair of needle point tweezers and bend the top leed wire to the left, as if un-wrapping the coil. (This can only be done easily if the coil was properly heated (annealed) before installation.
With the coil wire pointing out of the left slot, and slightly bent back clockwise, you can now use the same shoe shine motion on the top leg side of the coil until seated where you want it.
The hard part is now complete. While the tool is still in the coil, tightly re-wrap the coil lead, (top) clockwise, and insert the end in the retention hole. Keep forward pressure on the tool in the coil until you have tightened the retention screw. Once done, tilt the tool back toward the down leg side of the coil. This will tighten the coils, and straighten them.
Almost done now. Lightly shoeshine the top lead side cotton to bring it up to the top of the coil.
Clip the excess cotton, slightly proud of the slots. You will need the extra length in the next step.
Saturate the wick, both around the coil, and the cotton passing thru the slots.
Use the tip of the screwdriver you tightened the leeds with, and lightly press the excess cotton into the slots.
Whew!!! It sure took a LOT Longer to type this than to do it! And each time I rebuild, it gets quicker and easier.
A huge help is to use a magnifying head set, or table mounted magnifier. It is small, with tiny
Kidding.
Thanks for this. I have saved this for future use.Right now, I will keep buying prebuilt until they go away. Your tutorial will come in handy when I have no other choice for my Kabukis.
Waaaayyyy to thin to work with. A human hair is 44ga.
28-30 would be my guess and even 30 is almost too thin to work with IME.
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