Atomizer + Battery Watts Chart
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Emus - nice job on your first attempt! You guys make it look simple. 
Ok for curiosity's sake, what's the parts list one would need?
switch
threaded pot (is that even the correct name for that piece?)
wiring ( what gauge?)
battery holder
Anything else? And remember, this is coming from a total noob at this stuff. Anyone mind throwing out some links to parts you used so I'll know I'm looking at the right ones?
Ok for curiosity's sake, what's the parts list one would need?
switch
threaded pot (is that even the correct name for that piece?)
wiring ( what gauge?)
battery holder
Anything else? And remember, this is coming from a total noob at this stuff. Anyone mind throwing out some links to parts you used so I'll know I'm looking at the right ones?
No, the Thanks go to you for starting this thread and posting the info and some of your projects.
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I haven't read the whole thread; but here is a bare bones wattage spreadsheet I made recently:
http://www.4shared.com/document/e2ZhBLkm/wattage.html
http://www.4shared.com/document/e2ZhBLkm/wattage.html
So modest.
Ralph is one of the early pioneers here who also helped demystify actual loaded volts with his gizmo.
Test Set :: Overview: Atty Test Set picture by Ralph_T_62 - Photobucket
Emus - nice job on your first attempt! You guys make it look simple.
Ok for curiosity's sake, what's the parts list one would need?
switch
threaded pot (is that even the correct name for that piece?)
wiring ( what gauge?)
battery holder
Anything else? And remember, this is coming from a total noob at this stuff. Anyone mind throwing out some links to parts you used so I'll know I'm looking at the right ones?
510 atty connector: I robbed one out of an old 510 batt. I soldered it to Altoids to prevent leaks and provide solid connection to ground.
Switch: 3 Amp switch from Ebay. I modded switch such that it touches batt positive post. Soldered Aluminum angle to Altoids to secure switch. Switch reliability is extremely important. My switch has a proven reliability history in a DIY PT. I've had more luck w/ the box style switches.
Only one wire needed: From atty center post to fuse.
Fuse: 3 amp fuse soldered to 3 amp switch. Heat shrink tape covers exposed positive terminals.
Batt holder: cut copper pipe and soldered to Altoids.
Spring soldered to Altoids.
Wire: Robbed from old PC power supply.
Willie, you are way too kind. I don't use that set very often anymore. Forgot those pics were still there.
I did build a dummy load though, using 1 ohm wire wound resistors. So, I can go from .5 ohms up to 4.5 ohms load simulation. Used it to plot performance curves of the 14500 and AA NiMh, and the NiZn (1.6 V) batteries. Those NiZn batts looked real promising, but in the end, poor quality control (cell capacity variance) and the lack of an independent channel charger. Three of them in series put out real nice, but inevitably one cell was the weak one of the bunch, and would be driven negative before you knew what was happening. Hard to charge 3 batteries, when the chargers only charged in pairs (series). I bench charged them for awhile, but gave up on them. The Nickel-Zinc technology is going to be great for the hybrid cars though, clean, recyclable, green......
Geez, now you got me rattling on and on.
ETA: Two 1 ohm resistors in parallel is how I got the half ohm increment.
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Emus - nice job on your first attempt! You guys make it look simple.
Ok for curiosity's sake, what's the parts list one would need?
switch
threaded pot (is that even the correct name for that piece?)
wiring ( what gauge?)
battery holder
Anything else? And remember, this is coming from a total noob at this stuff. Anyone mind throwing out some links to parts you used so I'll know I'm looking at the right ones?
I don't make mods but I know that madvapes sells all kinds of parts and even build it yourself kits.
Mod Kits
Might look around for some ideas of for some harder to find parts.
You done real good! I really like all of that extra space in there, lets the user decide how many extra batteries, or juce, or cartos to carry.
I tried soldering to the tin several times, but it seemed to jack up the finish on the exterior of the box. I usually wire the ring and the center conductor now. Cant trust a physical connection where tin is involved. Your solder solves that issue.
Now is I could only find a decent clear coat. I want a mostly clear aerosol with almost a rubber texture, to keep the damn things from slipping out of the shirt pocket.
Thanks
I expected the solder to mess up the exterior finish but it didn't.
I like to sand metal before soldering. I melt a pile of solder on Altoids first. Pre-solder it's mate.
I try to heat quickly w/ iron tip in puddle of solder.
Thanks
I expected the solder to mess up the exterior finish but it didn't.
I like to sand metal before soldering. I melt a pile of solder on Altoids first. Pre-solder it's mate.
I try to heat quickly w/ iron tip in puddle of solder.
Nice. Just try and make sure that the solder bonds to both parts, and most importantly that the parts do not shift while it's cooling, otherwise you will end up with a "cold solder" joint... poor conductivity. Final connection should be almost mirror like (discounting flux puddles). If it looks grainy or crystalline, its most likely a cold joint.
Thanks for the info guys. Looks like I need to get on better terms with my local Radio Shack and Batteries Plus+ shops. And Zoid, that pre-made kit might not be a bad Idea just to get my feet wet.
One thing I've been wondering about (and please tell me if I'm getting in over my head at this point ) is I have several 3.7v batts as most of us probably do, and I also have a regulated 5v device. I don't have a vv, so it would be nice to have a mod thats in-between, say for example 4.2v. Is the device voltage in these home-made mods set solely by the battery used? And if so is there any point as you move up in voltage that you need to take more precautions (i.e. protection circuits or something like that- remember I'm a noob lol) Thanks again for the great info guys.
One thing I've been wondering about (and please tell me if I'm getting in over my head at this point ) is I have several 3.7v batts as most of us probably do, and I also have a regulated 5v device. I don't have a vv, so it would be nice to have a mod thats in-between, say for example 4.2v. Is the device voltage in these home-made mods set solely by the battery used? And if so is there any point as you move up in voltage that you need to take more precautions (i.e. protection circuits or something like that- remember I'm a noob lol) Thanks again for the great info guys.
I recommend a fuse w/ any mod. A collapsing battery spring is my favorite fuse but not sure where to buy.
If you want 4.2 volts you can make a VVPV regulator mod and use a fixed resistor in place of potentiometer.
Total batt voltage must exceed output voltage by a specified amount.
Exactly.
I think they have a Variable Voltage Kit which is pretty cheap. There is also a madvapes forum where they have kit specific help.
I used Madvapes 10506 5 amp regulator kit to make VV Altoids mod.
I used a 10 amp fuse because I didn't have a 5 amp.
I used MV 10117 300g switch which is kinda hard to press but good for pocket.
They have a 100g switch FWIR.
18350 batts.
Performance is excellent and Altoids tin makes an excellent heat sink.
I used a 10 amp fuse because I didn't have a 5 amp.
I used MV 10117 300g switch which is kinda hard to press but good for pocket.
They have a 100g switch FWIR.
18350 batts.
Performance is excellent and Altoids tin makes an excellent heat sink.
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I don't know who started the Altoids but when I saw Ralph's I had to have one or two or...
I really really like em
I don't know who started the Altoids but when I saw Ralph's I had to have one or two or...
I really really like em
Yeah. I have seen them many times here on the ECF.
You know there are Altoids Gum Tins?
Would make a Cool single battery mod.
Yes, the Altoids mod was already thought of by the time I did one. Independent thinking sometimes leads to the same conclusion.
That looks awesome emus!
I haven't seen any of the gum tins in stores. I know the Altoid Mini's tins make excellent carto holders (holds 4 DC cartos).
That looks awesome emus!
I haven't seen any of the gum tins in stores. I know the Altoid Mini's tins make excellent carto holders (holds 4 DC cartos).
Those Mini Tins are Great for all kinds of things. I keep extra carto seals and Mouth pieces in one.
Now that would be a Mod! Guess you would have to use a "Coin" battery and a Blu 510 carto. LOL
Now that would be a Mod! Guess you would have to use a "Coin" battery and a Blu 510 carto. LOL
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