Attack of the (Kayfun Mini V3) Clones!

[Katdarling]

The best way to check your seal is this: Remove the deck so that you just have the tank section in your hand. Press the open end of the tank firmly into the palm of your hand. Draw hard on the drip tip and plug it with your tongue. It should stick like a tick to a hound dog. After 10 or 15 seconds pull your tongue off and it should "pop" when you do it. If it does that, it has a good seal.

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*was VERY hard to speak whilst my tongue got stuck and vapor locked on the drip tip. but i think we're making progress!

 

[gnees]

View attachment 641317 *

 

[TrollDragon]

You might be better off getting your o-rings from a good supplier, since most Chinese o-ring are junk.

O-rings and More would be a good choice.

 

[DaveP]

Usually the screws on the clones sucks.. Maybe they have improved them though. I don't know. With the clones I had to wrap the wire around the screw otherwise it kept popping out. There is a site that sells the parts and screws for the authentic kayfun mini v3.. perhaps that would fit into the clone.. I am not sure. Everything was going smooth for me, but now its gurgling .. :-\ The one kayfun clone i bought that has worked amazing for like two years now.. I don't even remember where i got it,, which i did!

I agree that the screws that come with rebuildable atomizers aren't the good ones. SS would be better, but would probably wear out the atomizer threads over time.

I wonder if some don't use a screwdriver that actually FITS the screw heads. I can't remember replacing a screw on an RTA in years. I use the second largest Philips in the Yellow Stanley mini screwdriver set and it fits the cross in the coil screw with no play. If I try to use the largest just the tip just barely fits the coil screw and it will wallow out the Phillips head over time, although it's perfect for the bottom fill screw. When I'm out I'll use the keychain screwdriver very carefully.

Most of what I vape was made by EHPro or Tobeco.

 

[DaveP]

You might be better off getting your o-rings from a good supplier, since most Chinese o-ring are junk.

O-rings and More would be a good choice.

These are the ones I use for KF V2 fill ports. I know most fill from the top, but if you use the fill port these fit tightly on the screw and don't come off when you remove it. 50 (for $2.75) will last me the rest of my life!
Buna 90 O-rings 2 x 1mm Price for 50 pcs

 

[David Wolf]

You certainly may be right. I've got some replacement seals on the way to tryout, to see if that helps. If it does that would be great. All my seals have visually looked fine when inspecting them, but that may not mean anything if it turns out some of them are the wrong size or something else quirky like that.



I'm rather surprised none of your TC mods do SS. I would think most TC mods do SS nowadays, so I'm guessing your TC mods are maybe a little older?

Regardless, if you want to do SS TC you will obviously need to get a mod that can do that. Most newer TC capable devices can do SS, so you will have no problem finding a suitable device, and SS 316L wire is available from all suppliers. I'm not familiar with the other types of SS vape wire that are out there. SS 316L is the most common.

For the most part I like the iStick Pico 75W for TC. I like the design enough that I ended up buying a second one as a backup - and may even get a 3rd (the latest one with the multicolor resin finish). There are plenty other affordable options available as well. I'm eyeing a few myself, but I'm not really in the market for a newer design box mod right now.

Previously I had an IPV D2. I think that's the right name. I can barely remember anymore. It could do SS too, I think, but I only used its TC functionality with factory built TC heads. I found (at the time at least) that factory MTL TC heads just never seemed to work very well, but that was maybe about a year ago.

One of the reasons I got back into rebuilding was because I had read somewhere that was really the only way to get good MTL tank TC results. And, of course, I was sick and tired of buying cruddy factory coils that just never lasted me very long.

I don't think there is anything magical about a SS TC build compared to a regular Kanthal power mode build. For now, I just do a 3mm inner diameter, 6 wrap coil, using 26 gauge SS 316L wire. That's just a build I read posted by someone else here on ECF.

It took me awhile to realize (be convinced by other forum members I should say) that I didn't need to try building above 1 ohm coils to get good mouth-to-lung results with SS for TC like I normally would with Kanthal wire. Also, if you wick with cotton, unlike me playing with rayon wick, you should probably have an easier time than I did. Cotton is generally easier to wick with, and used with a proper TC setup you shouldn't need to worry about burning it.

I just got into using rayon early on for its better than cotton wicking abilities, to help prevent dry hits when using high VG juices in tight'ish draw MTL builds.

I am allergic to high doses of PG in my juice, so that has caused me a few issues in my vaping life. High VG juices don't run very well in old school CE4 type eGo era clearomizers. Back in those days, good high VG juices were hard to find as well. A lot has changed since then, but most factory MTL coils for MTL tanks (not that there are that many good ones anyway) still don't run high VG juices very well. So now I'm into MTL RTAs. There has been a learning curve to deal with, but I am now much better off for the effort.

Right, If you go back a year ago most of the more inexpensive TC mods didn't do SS temp control, they did nickel and titanium. My Istick 40W TC and the aspire Pegasus, both of which I have,don't have SS temp control. With a lower TCR, SS control needed some improvement in the technology. Of course these days SS temp control is common, with varying degrees of performance. AL85 charts show erratic control (not just for SS), pico shows more stable control but a larger temperature error. Etc. I will try SS on power control first before I pick up a new TC mod after doing some research on the mods.

 

[David Wolf]

is 1 turn good enough for 70pg/30vg? i was using about 2.5 turns when using 70vg but i wonder if this amount for 70 pg is too much?

I use a little over 1 turn for 80pg/20 vg on my KF V3 mini clone.

 

[billybc96]

Right, If you go back a year ago most of the more inexpensive TC mods didn't do SS temp control, they did nickel and titanium. My Istick 40W TC and the aspire Pegasus, both of which I have,don't have SS temp control. With a lower TCR, SS control needed some improvement in the technology. Of course these days SS temp control is common, with varying degrees of performance. AL85 charts show erratic control (not just for SS), pico shows more stable control but a larger temperature error. Etc. I will try SS on power control first before I pick up a new TC mod after doing some research on the mods.

I was actually thinking maybe I would try using some TC wire other than SS, just because I find SS runs inconsistent in the KF Mini V3. On the other hand, SS is certainly pretty easy to wrap. NiChrome and Titanium sound a little more difficult to work with, and I'm not sure I'll be okay with the flavor. I think it may be worth a try anyway - to get a more stable TC MTL vape. Anyone here have any suggestions for an alternate to SS wire for TC use in the KF Mini V3?

Honestly, one of the big issues with any of my coil builds is not the builds at all. My tobacco juices just tend to build up gunk fairly quickly on the coil, and that throws everything off when attempting TC. At least when using SS, which does not change its resistance all that much as it heats up compared to some other TC wire. That's why I'm considering other options. But, maybe with the juices I use it doesn't really matter that much? I may have to change my wicks pretty regularly regardless. The vape quality difference between my SS TC builds and my Kanthal power builds is not very big.

I do really like my first half a day's worth of TC vaping on a new wick though. I get good vapor, flavor, mellow vapor temperature, and no real dry hit or leak issues, but everything just starts to fall apart after that and then I'm constantly readjusting wattage and max temp. It's annoying and not fun. Then I switch to a KF Mini V3 with a Kanthal power build until I can get around to rewicking the SS TC build - at which time I just rewick both tanks (with another in reserve). Maybe I would have better luck with different juices, but I like the flavors I use. Finding good tobacco e-liquids is difficult, so I'd rather just rewick more often if that's what it takes to get a consistently good vape. I'd just rather not have to.

I received my Kayfun Mini V3 Plus last night, but have not had a chance to check it out much yet. So far the build quality looks fine. I look forward to doing my first build on it. I hope it vapes well.

 

[Katdarling]

I use a little over 1 turn for 80pg/20 vg on my KF V3 mini clone.

I'm a 2 and 1/2 girl turner.

 

[David Wolf]

I'm a 2 and 1/2 girl turner.

 

[David Wolf]

I was actually thinking maybe I would try using some TC wire other than SS, just because I find SS runs inconsistent in the KF Mini V3. On the other hand, SS is certainly pretty easy to wrap. NiChrome and Titanium sound a little more difficult to work with, and I'm not sure I'll be okay with the flavor. I think it may be worth a try anyway - to get a more stable TC MTL vape. Anyone here have any suggestions for an alternate to SS wire for TC use in the KF Mini V3?

As far as Nichrome 80 goes, to me it gives a cleaner flavor than Kanthal until the kanthal "breaks in", but I believe the Nichromes not good for dry burning, I find the taste changes. Others have said they like Kanthals taste better, so YMMV. And that's where I want to try SS, I've heard its clean tasting and I have some 30AWG on order now, I will use it on power mode and build it at 2mm, 7 wraps spaced, for around 1 ohm or a little less (I forget exactly, I played with it on steam engine last night).
Honestly, one of the big issues with any of my coil builds is not the builds at all. My tobacco juices just tend to build up gunk fairly quickly on the coil, and that throws everything off when attempting TC. At least when using SS, which does not change its resistance all that much as it heats up compared to some other TC wire. That's why I'm considering other options. But, maybe with the juices I use it doesn't really matter that much? I may have to change my wicks pretty regularly regardless. The vape quality difference between my SS TC builds and my Kanthal power builds is not very big.

I do really like my first half a day's worth of TC vaping on a new wick though. I get good vapor, flavor, mellow vapor temperature, and no real dry hit or leak issues, but everything just starts to fall apart after that and then I'm constantly readjusting wattage and max temp. It's annoying and not fun. Then I switch to a KF Mini V3 with a Kanthal power build until I can get around to rewicking the SS TC build - at which time I just rewick both tanks (with another in reserve). Maybe I would have better luck with different juices, but I like the flavors I use. Finding good tobacco e-liquids is difficult, so I'd rather just rewick more often if that's what it takes to get a consistently good vape. I'd just rather not have to.

I received my Kayfun Mini V3 Plus last night, but have not had a chance to check it out much yet. So far the build quality looks fine. I look forward to doing my first build on it. I hope it vapes well.

You touched on something I've wondered about as an engineer - using TC, I figured as the coil gunked and "insulated" somewhat by the build up, the coil would be less efficient at producing vapor at the same temperature since it will take less current to heat the coil up (thus less power), and that TC control would suffer, and you might have to crank the temperature setting up to compensate.

Hey let me know how you like the Kayfun Mini V3 Plus! I almost picked one up at fasttech, but opted for two different KF Mini V3's. I can relate regarding rewicking, I vape NETs and my coils gunk pretty quickly, I usually get two tanks vaped (at 2ml) before I need to rewick, one or two more on my DIY clearer juice. I have a low tolerance for gunky coil taste, and I agree, that first tank on a new wick is just so good.
Clarification - I use nichrome in power mode of course, I don't know of any mods that can TC that, it's usually nickel, titanium, steel, etc.

 

[KTMRider]

I'm a 2 and 1/2 girl turner.

Are we still talking about atomizers?

 

[Katdarling]

Now c'mon, KTM. You know we don't kiss 'n tell.

 

[TrollDragon]

I was actually thinking maybe I would try using some TC wire other than SS, just because I find SS runs inconsistent in the KF Mini V3. On the other hand, SS is certainly pretty easy to wrap. NiChrome and Titanium sound a little more difficult to work with, and I'm not sure I'll be okay with the flavor. I think it may be worth a try anyway - to get a more stable TC MTL vape. Anyone here have any suggestions for an alternate to SS wire for TC use in the KF Mini V3?

Actually SS would be your best choice for TC with a gunky juice. It can be dry burned and run in power mode if you like. The other common TC wires such as Nickel and Titanium perform much better, but cannot be dry burned or should never be used in power mode.

 

[DaveP]

Anyone noticed how hard it is to find cheap prices on Kayfun Lite Plus V2 for sale in the U.S.? I should have bought up the sales that were going on a year ago. I have a stack of V3, V4, and a V5, but I'm finding that I like the V2 best.

Same thing is going on with KF Mini V3. Only China suppliers have them.

 

[DaveP]

I bit the bullet today and placed my first order with Fasttech using PayPal. Most of the US vendors are still out of everything I want after the CNY. You'd think they be receiving shipments by now.

I ordered a replacement Kayfun LP V2 coil deck base to replace one where I broke a small drill bit off inside trying to clean it up to stop a whistling noise! The contact screw can't turn because the bit is blocking it and the hole is too small to use tweezers or needle nose pliers. That's pretty much a dead horse, so I ordered a new one.

I ordered a no name clone Kayfun Mini V3 and an SXK Kayfun Mini V3. That should be a good comparison of their no name atomizers to a name brand.

I also ordered an Authentic Augvape Merlin and an Authentic Wotofo Serpent Mini in an attempt to try out more MTL replacements for the Kayfun's that are getting so hard to find lately. I need to branch out and try some new MTL tanks, anyway.

It's all projected to ship between 3/29 and 4/6, different items and various ship dates + about 10-14 days in USPS handling. USPS was free.

I got lucky with Eciggity in Hawaii and USPS got that order to me all the way across the U.S. in 4 days. We'll see how long Fasttech takes.

 

[KTMRider]

I found I like a looser draw and moved away from the KM3. I still have 2 in rotation but rarely grab them.

The Serpent Mini is a good lung hitter but not so much for MTL. You can slide the hole small enough for MTL but it's not as good as a KM3. Then there's the limited capacity. They're tiny so great for a stealth vape setup. I have one on a VS DNA40 and a Target Mini.

I've been trying different atomizers but keep going back to the KF5. At #4 opening, it's a tight lung hit but I like it. It doesn't leak and it's easy to live with day to day.

FT usually takes 2 weeks from ship date but some have come in as little as 7 days or as much as 30 days.

 

[DaveP]

I found I like a looser draw and moved away from the KM3. I still have 2 in rotation but rarely grab them.

The Serpent Mini is a good lung hitter but not so much for MTL. You can slide the hole small enough for MTL but it's not as good as a KM3. Then there's the limited capacity. They're tiny so great for a stealth vape setup. I have one on a VS DNA40 and a Target Mini.

I've been trying different atomizers but keep going back to the KF5. At #4 opening, it's a tight lung hit but I like it. It doesn't leak and it's easy to live with day to day.

FT usually takes 2 weeks from ship date but some have come in as little as 7 days or as much as 30 days.

I've read about people inserting a 2.5mm air hole adapter into the 4mm adapter under the coil for MTL. That isn't listed in the parts list.

One comment under the serpent mini page at Fasttech suggested winding a 4mm OD coil with 24ga or 22ga, cutting the leads off and inserting the coil in the air hole to reduce the 4mm size to 2.5mm. That sounds like a decent air restriction mod if turning the air adjustment down doesn't reduce it enough.

From the Fasttech site

Make tightly wrapped coil, cut the leads off and use that. 24 will reduce the hole by 1 mm, 22 by 1.2 mm. It may take a few tries until you find the perfect diameter, but it works great and SS is the safest choice.

 

[paladinx]

I been thinking about getting an ego one battery since that has a 19mm diameter.. Might look nice and fit good on the kayfun mini with a steel tank. I was curious any of you guys know where to get ego one batteries for a good price, or any other batteries u know about that are 19mm?

 

[billybc96]

I'm trying out Cotton Bacon wick for the first time in my KF Mini V3s. I have not used cotton wick in a very long time in my RTAs. It is nice not having to fuss around as much with the wick compared to using rayon. I am using the Cotton Bacon with temperature control, so hopefully I won't burn the stuff.

I saw on YouTube a recommendation that each "bacon slab" of cotton should be divided into 4 equal parts (lengthwise), each length of which will then be a perfect size (after length trimming) to fit a 3mm ID coil. That was not my experience. Way too much cotton. Dividing each "bacon slab" of cotton into 8 equal sized lengths works much better for fitting in a 3mm ID coil.

I'm not sure that makes for a perfect fit, but it seems to work pretty well so far. I'm not having any wick problems using undiluted 80/20 VG/PG juice. Temp control itself using a Kayfun Mini V3 is still a bit of a pain, but having that temp control to help protect the wick from burning when I screw up is a nice feature to have. I still sometimes forget to reopen the juice flow after turning it down to refill. With TC I don't burn the wick, and quickly realize my error before getting a bad taste in my mouth.

I'm still just using a very basic 26 gauge SS316L coil build. 3mm inner diameter, about 6 wraps, working out to about 0.5 ohms or so resistance - once the tank is put together and screwed on the box mod. That little KF Mini V3 mouthpiece tends to run hot fairly quickly when chain vaping though, so I'm still in search of good replacement options that'll fit well.

So far I'm having much less juice seepage issues using the Cotton Bacon wick, so I'm very pleased about that. I think this stuff may actually wick slightly better than rayon - at least without having to fuss around nearly as much. The price isn't too bad either for what you get, and its ease of use. Flavor is quite fine too, but not necessarily any better or worse than rayon, which is fine by me too.