Attn: atomizer rebuilders

[Vaporer]

It will get hotter than you think.
36ga NiCh only takes .380 amps to reach 400*. Thats assuming no airflow cooling it. We are hitting it withjust over 1A and glowing red occurs at 1900*.
A little more punishment than you'd expect, but with to many unknowns too.
Heat drawn from the wet wick, airflow, droplets and mist hitting it, duration of "on" state.......

It is alot of interesting read though. Youre right on that, if its your thing.

 

[jxmiller]

It will get hotter than you think.
36ga NiCh only takes .380 amps to reach 400*. Thats assuming no airflow cooling it. We are hitting it withjust over 1A and glowing red occurs at 1900*.
A little more punishment than you'd expect, but with to many unknowns too.
Heat drawn from the wet wick, airflow, droplets and mist hitting it, duration of "on" state.......

It is alot of interesting read though. You're right on that, if its your thing.

That's interesting. I have been wondering how hot the ceramic will get on the exterior of the housing from normal usage. If it gets above 275 degrees Celsius, I have to create a heat sink ... which will suck... or use a totally different material for the housing. I got some silicone that is rated for 297 degrees Celsius. I already knew what that meant for those that like to turn on the atomizer and leave it on for experimentation... I figured that would be their problem though, and warned against it. I am trying to have a built in detector that will permanently change color if the device is used like that. Sort of like the water strips in cell phones the use for warranty checking only this does it for temp.

 

[Vaporer]

Some people are sold on a "dry burn" and it may be a benefit, but only for specific type of users. I cant say, some swear by it.

Same thing with HV users. 5 & 6v are going to get a lot hotter and quicker. Even as the atty runs dry which can happen before the user realizes more damage is being done to the coil and wicking material. I'm amazed that present atomizers last very long at all running 6v. But, in the same breath you don't hear of people complaining of them failing at a rediculous level. I'm not in the HV areas either though. They actually might be.

There are many theories on what is best. Best can be determined in many ways.
Quick to heat, longevity, durability, flavor and vapor production, the list goes on. I feel the greater the heat the more damage and shortened life and higher battery usage. So I made my project to make the atomizer more efficient while using less power, which extends battery time, life and no noticeable loss of vapor or flavor. All with the present "frame" design other than the coil. Changing more than one thing at a time can have results without knowing the cause.

What we have now is a specific purpose atomizer being used in a very wide range to suit the needs of the user.

I've had discussions with others on design that have some very good ideas. It would result in some major design changes not practical for "home designer" but hold a lot of merit in my opinion. The atomizers wouldn't be cheap, but with that many changes certainly a replaceable coil system can be utilized.

The type of indicator you describe could be well served. You might consider 2 strips. One for its immediate state of heat and the other that permanetly indicates overall heat.
One would change with heat and change back as it cooled, the other would be a useage/damage indicator if you will not reverting back.

Do you have a thread on your design started?

 

[thomas0407]

You can get attys from king pin, and as far as mods I can custom build anything under the sun, usp, car cig adap,cell phone batt, any batt mod, my last mod is a solor pass through, just set it on the seat of my skif and vape all day long!

 

[Vaporer]

Solar PT? You are using solar cells that produce 1.2A?

 

[Nicotinologist]

It is a nobel idea but do not use solder with lead unless you want to get lead poisoning. Maybe the use metal fusioning like they do on hi intensity light bulbs such as halogen lights.

 

[Nicotinologist]

Oh guys, I almost forgot (Idid forget, I guess) there is something like ceramic heating elements that is available for 20 or more years that would normally last the life of a car. They used it under the carburators. The purpose was to further atomize the fuel/air mixture to lower the tailpipe emissions. I think we should do some research on this before the atomizer manfacturers beat us to it. I was not going to mention this because I was going to do search on it with the US Patent office. Well, this reply will serve as a public record that I came up with the idea, right?

 

[crazyhorse]

LOL. Uh-huh. Sure, you came up with the idea... but you may want to do a little more reading in this forum before you start staking any claims

 

[Vaporer]

You might want to go to the ceramic thread where they special ordered the size they wanted and are already trying them.

 

[Nicotinologist]

If it is true, could someone direct me to it. I did not see anything of the sort. Well, if somebody came up with same idea before I did I am glad for him. I am just new to this forum and just learning how to navigate.

 

[Vaporer]

No problem.
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/atomizer-mods/44948-replacement-nichrome-coil.html

 

[Colonel Angus]

Wow. I think I'm screwed. I didn't realize how the atty's burn out. I've been using the drip method for about 3 weeks now since I got my first e-cig. My atomizer just burned out on me, and it's the only one I have.
I'm not quite sure I even understand how these things work. It looks like there's a wire at the bottom that heats up, and that heats the U shaped wire above it just enough to vaporize the liquid? Is that it?

 

[irieb]

I've used my joye 306 atty now 4 bout a month - no problem. I am an exclusive dripper. I find the exposed atomizers work better 4 dipping/dripping and have a longer life - I've had issues with the enclosed attys like the 510 once I've introduced dripping. Just my experience....

 

[Vaporer]

Drippers are more aware of when to top off. This keeps the reservoir and wick wet, which allows it to run cooler.

Lots of discussion on this. Some dry burn and get long life too.

 

[dolvey]

Is there a trick to removing blown atomizers from the sleeve without destroying the sleeve or atomizer on a 510?

 

[Vaporer]

Most put them on a battery tight and flex them at the joint till the sleeve works lose.
I put a drill bit in the end for extra leverage. Some like to boil them 1st to loosen the glue.
Then its wiggle and slide off.

 

[perlion]

Interesting thread.

What if instead of a coil of nichrome , we could somehow line the walls of the ceramic cup something like this. Don't laugh, I'm not an artist with PS.

my post count isn't up enough to post links.

h t t p : //img23.imageshack.us/img23/127/nichromepot.jpg

 

[Nicotinologist]

Of course it is possible to take them apart but at a cost. Find a machine shop to make the tooling to do the job, lots of monneeeyyy.
The easiest is to get a mini tube cutter. Make some measurements and then cut it very slowly. Do not cut too deeply. Feed the cutting wheel very slowly and turn as many revolutions as you could. When it gets loose feed it some more, keep on turning, it will fall apart.

Nico

 

[Vaporer]

perlion,

I can see where you are going. Have to say its been discussed before or something like it.
The problem is having the cups made. Modding an existing cup is tough. They are rock hard. If you could cast the cup I'd put "nubs" on the wall with a slight grove to the top and bottom. The nichrome could be woven in. They might look like a small "J" of the wall.

The next problem would be feed. Not really a problem from some of the stuff I've disassembled lately. A ring of air holes on the bottom near the wall and put wicking behind the wire. Then all you need is to feed the wick from the bridge.
As heat is applied the air would pass the wire/wick wall and pull the vapor out.
Done deal. It would work, how well I can't say unless I tried it.
Keep those brain cells churning! New ideas are always welcome.
It's tough to be totally original with all the info posted here, but good solutions can grow from input.

If the atty is an exposed 510, well....I've only seen one disassembled that didn't destroy it. Kinda defeats the rebuilding unless you break diff parts of it.
The long enclosed sleeve 510 comes apart pretty easy as described above with no cutting.

 

[jenntek]

I have some 901 Dead Atty's. No Continuity, If anyone is interested I can mail them out - Free... I hate to see something sit that might be able to be fixed. I thought I would post this in the classifieds... But, I thought I would ask in this sticky first.
If it gets moved? well, then, I'll know.
I'm sure the wire is blown in them. Just needs rewound. I don't have the time.