Battery Info for the Chuck
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Well that gets pretty complicated, but the mAh rating means milli amp hour. So in your example, you can get 750 milliamps for 1 hour or... 1 amp (1000mA) for .75 hours or... 1 milliamp for 750 hours, etc, etc. That part is pretty easy.
Where it get complicated is in 1) figuring out the amp draw you are actually pulling with any given setup, and 2) how many seconds per hour you are actually pushing the button.
The amp draw is the a result of the volts of your batt divided by the ohms of your atty. This gets further convoluted by the fact that the actual volts of your batt drops when it 'sees' the load of your atty. The bigger the capacity (mAh), the less that drop will be. This is why 3.7V from a 3000mAh 18650 hits way harder than 3.7V from a wimpy 180mAh stock batt. Firstly, they both start at 4.2V, but when you load them the 18650 will deliver about 3.8V (for hours and hours) where the stock batt delivers more like 3.2V (and that drops rapidly). But anyway, if you are running an 18650 (3.8V) on a 510 (2.5ohms) you are drawing about an amp and a half. So that batt is going to hold up for a continuous button press of about 2 hours (3000mAh / 1500mA).
So now you have to figure out how long it takes you to hold the button for 2 hours. For me it's 2-3 days. It's going to be different for everyone.
^^^That was the long answer^^^
Short answer....calculating...calculating...ding...3-4 hours
You have to figure that at 6V, the amp draw goes way up.
Edit: OR... what the bunny said
Where it get complicated is in 1) figuring out the amp draw you are actually pulling with any given setup, and 2) how many seconds per hour you are actually pushing the button.
The amp draw is the a result of the volts of your batt divided by the ohms of your atty. This gets further convoluted by the fact that the actual volts of your batt drops when it 'sees' the load of your atty. The bigger the capacity (mAh), the less that drop will be. This is why 3.7V from a 3000mAh 18650 hits way harder than 3.7V from a wimpy 180mAh stock batt. Firstly, they both start at 4.2V, but when you load them the 18650 will deliver about 3.8V (for hours and hours) where the stock batt delivers more like 3.2V (and that drops rapidly). But anyway, if you are running an 18650 (3.8V) on a 510 (2.5ohms) you are drawing about an amp and a half. So that batt is going to hold up for a continuous button press of about 2 hours (3000mAh / 1500mA).
So now you have to figure out how long it takes you to hold the button for 2 hours. For me it's 2-3 days. It's going to be different for everyone.
^^^That was the long answer^^^
Short answer....calculating...calculating...ding...3-4 hours
You have to figure that at 6V, the amp draw goes way up.
Edit: OR... what the bunny said
The UltraFire CR2/15270 Li-Ion Battery 800mah on madvapes MadVapes LLCis an unprotected cell. I'm not sure if these are LiFeP04 3.0V cells-if so their charge termination should be somewhere around 3.6-3.8V or if these are 3.0V "regulated" cells that are actually 3.7V liCo cells that have a voltage reducing Diode in the circuit-if so their charge termination should be somewhere around 4.4V and be sure not to discharge to less than 2.5V.
They also sell a protected cellMadVapes LLC
http://www.madvapes.com/Details.aspx?itemId=MVLBAT15270.3P
Which I'm pretty sure is a regulated cell because they recommend using a 3.7V cell charger for it.
They also sell a protected cellMadVapes LLC
http://www.madvapes.com/Details.aspx?itemId=MVLBAT15270.3P
Which I'm pretty sure is a regulated cell because they recommend using a 3.7V cell charger for it.
Last edited:
Found this on a flashlight forumCR2's and charging - CandlePowerForums
"A few things you guys need to know about 3 Volt Li-Ion cells.
Before the advent of small (as we use in lights) LiFe cells, there were only LiCo cells that had diodes incorporated within the cell, to in effect, reduce the working voltage to somewhere between 3.2 and 3.6 Volts (ie. NOT 3.0 Volts). Due to the fact that these cells have diodes within their circuitry, a higher charging voltage is required to supply the 4.2 Volts to the base LiCo cell. This means that a proper charger for 3 Volt LiCo cells has to charge the cell to 4.4-4.5 Volts to achieve 4.2 Volts at the underlying LiCo cell. It's important to note here, that charging a LiFe cell in one of these chargers, may not be so dangerous, but charging at this voltage level will surely damage the cell, more than likely sooner, rather than later. Charging a 3.7 Volt LiCo cell in one of these chargers will not only damage the cell, but very likely could go . Most 3 Volt LiCo's have a maximum discharge rate between 1 and 2C.
Most of the 3 Volt Li-Ion cells you see around nowadays are LiFePO4. These cells supply a very similar voltage under load as the 3 Volt LiCo's, between 3.2 and 3.4 Volts (again, Not 3.0 Volts). LiFe cells require a lower end voltage than LiCo 3.7 or 3.0 Volt cells. The end voltage is about 3.6 Volts for LiFe and chargers are usually rated 3.6-3.8 Volts, so these cells require yet another totally different charger. Most of the smaller LiFe cells that I have, or have seen available, are rated at a maximum discharge rate of 1C, not very high. While A123 Systems LiFe cells (and others) are rated at 30C discharge and beyond, again, most CR-2 and CR-123 LiFe's I've seen, are not. Personally, I've been running 350mAh LiFe 123's sometimes, at 3C, but I don't expect them to last 2000 cycles either. It's probably pertinent to add that putting a heavier current load to a LiFe cell than it is designed for, is not nearly as dangerous as doing so to a LiCo cell.
So, there are three different types of chargers involved with Li-Ion cells. In some cases, you can use the wrong charger and get away with it, the cell just won't achieve full charge. In the worst combination's, you will either damage the cell, or run the risk of "venting with flame". You have to use the proper charger for the chemistry/voltage of the cell you are charging. If you're not sure what chemistry you're dealing with, contact the dealer or manufacturer.
As far as whether your light can use a certain cell, you have to find out exactly what chemistry the cell is, and then I would contact the manufacturer of the light, and ask them if that is a suitable solution. Then, make sure you purchase the proper charger to charge that chemistry/voltage cell.
Dave
__________________
"Weird Battery Person" "
"A few things you guys need to know about 3 Volt Li-Ion cells.
Before the advent of small (as we use in lights) LiFe cells, there were only LiCo cells that had diodes incorporated within the cell, to in effect, reduce the working voltage to somewhere between 3.2 and 3.6 Volts (ie. NOT 3.0 Volts). Due to the fact that these cells have diodes within their circuitry, a higher charging voltage is required to supply the 4.2 Volts to the base LiCo cell. This means that a proper charger for 3 Volt LiCo cells has to charge the cell to 4.4-4.5 Volts to achieve 4.2 Volts at the underlying LiCo cell. It's important to note here, that charging a LiFe cell in one of these chargers, may not be so dangerous, but charging at this voltage level will surely damage the cell, more than likely sooner, rather than later. Charging a 3.7 Volt LiCo cell in one of these chargers will not only damage the cell, but very likely could go . Most 3 Volt LiCo's have a maximum discharge rate between 1 and 2C.
Most of the 3 Volt Li-Ion cells you see around nowadays are LiFePO4. These cells supply a very similar voltage under load as the 3 Volt LiCo's, between 3.2 and 3.4 Volts (again, Not 3.0 Volts). LiFe cells require a lower end voltage than LiCo 3.7 or 3.0 Volt cells. The end voltage is about 3.6 Volts for LiFe and chargers are usually rated 3.6-3.8 Volts, so these cells require yet another totally different charger. Most of the smaller LiFe cells that I have, or have seen available, are rated at a maximum discharge rate of 1C, not very high. While A123 Systems LiFe cells (and others) are rated at 30C discharge and beyond, again, most CR-2 and CR-123 LiFe's I've seen, are not. Personally, I've been running 350mAh LiFe 123's sometimes, at 3C, but I don't expect them to last 2000 cycles either. It's probably pertinent to add that putting a heavier current load to a LiFe cell than it is designed for, is not nearly as dangerous as doing so to a LiCo cell.
So, there are three different types of chargers involved with Li-Ion cells. In some cases, you can use the wrong charger and get away with it, the cell just won't achieve full charge. In the worst combination's, you will either damage the cell, or run the risk of "venting with flame". You have to use the proper charger for the chemistry/voltage of the cell you are charging. If you're not sure what chemistry you're dealing with, contact the dealer or manufacturer.
As far as whether your light can use a certain cell, you have to find out exactly what chemistry the cell is, and then I would contact the manufacturer of the light, and ask them if that is a suitable solution. Then, make sure you purchase the proper charger to charge that chemistry/voltage cell.
Dave
__________________
"Weird Battery Person" "
Not to sound dumb but what is the difference between the rcr123's which I'm seeing recommended for the chuck and the rcr123A's that I'm seeing references to above for ordering?
I bought the 15270's from MadVapes and they say to use 3 dimes for spacers. I do it this way and they work fine in my chuck with the adapter.
Officially an RCR123a is the name of the 'size' of the batttery, but a lot of people refer to them as just RCR123. Some people also call them rechargeable CR123's or rechargable CR123a's.
They have the same dimensions on a 16340 battery, so you'll also hear them referred to as 16340's.
The 'RCR123' can be either 3v or 3.7v (although it's usually 3v when called an RCR123, since CR123's, non-rechargeable, are usually 3 v). The 3v ones can be either Li-Ion or LifePO4, a newer type of technology for batteries. If they are 3v, they should be charged with 3v chargers meant for Li-Ion or for LifePO4, and not with a 3.7v Li-Ion charger. If they are 3.7 v, they should be charged with a Li-Ion 3.7 v charger.
16340 batteries are USUALLY 3.7 v, but I've seen places that refer to 3v 16340 batteries.
Yes, it IS confusing!
JeannieB360, Thank you!! for taking the time to answer my question in really simple form for me. Now I feel "safe" to order some. I really appreciate it, Happy vaping!
where can you get a 3.0v charger??? i bought one that was supposedly a 3.0v charger, but the multimeter shows them charging at 5.5v 8-o
I just received my 3.0v rcr123's from MadVapes LLC, and have a weird thing to report. I popped them into the Yoda Chuck and if I depress the switch fully, it doesn't fire. If I push it halfway, it fires.
I put the lifePO4 batteries back in it and it worked properly. I noticed that the madvapes batteries were about 1/8th of an inch taller than the lifePO4's. Could the new batteries be pushing too hard on the connector in the Chuck?
I put the lifePO4 batteries back in it and it worked properly. I noticed that the madvapes batteries were about 1/8th of an inch taller than the lifePO4's. Could the new batteries be pushing too hard on the connector in the Chuck?
I just want t be sure before I order. Are these the right 18650 batteries for the Chuck?
UltraFire 3.7V 18650 Double Batteries Wired Charger with 18650 3000mAh Protected Batteries Suit UltraFire Double Batteries Wired Charger 3000mAh Protected Batteries - DinoDirect.com
UltraFire 3.7V 18650 Double Batteries Wired Charger with 18650 3000mAh Protected Batteries Suit UltraFire Double Batteries Wired Charger 3000mAh Protected Batteries - DinoDirect.com
Those are correct, medicate. Kinda pricey though
You can get that at battery Junction for less, with a better charger.
You can get that at battery Junction for less, with a better charger.
HP, u know i hate to disagree with u but....
Madvapes are 3000mAh (which costs extra at BJ and they are out of stock). So MV has them in stock, they ALWAYS ship super fast. One time I ordered from them and by the time the page refreshed the mailman was ringing my doorbell!
MV - 2batts + charger = $27
BJ - 2batts + charger = $36
Madvapes are 3000mAh (which costs extra at BJ and they are out of stock). So MV has them in stock, they ALWAYS ship super fast. One time I ordered from them and by the time the page refreshed the mailman was ringing my doorbell!
MV - 2batts + charger = $27
BJ - 2batts + charger = $36
you are right MM. BJ has gone up since last time I ordered there. They are also selling the cheaper charger with their combo packs now
MadVapes is a good choice
MadVapes is a good choice
See kids... that's why we warn against using unprotected batteries.
300? Damn man, that's some futuristic stuff! I don't think anything beyond 60 exists outside of hollywood! Now I'm gonna go change the 8-track!
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