Bells & Studs & Stuff

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asdaq

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poland, and the brassy lands of google
For anyone who has seen my previous mods, this might look quite familiar, but with a few subtle changes:

IMG_0128.JPG

From the side there are some other differences:

IMG_0126.JPG


And from the bottom and other side:

IMG_0130.JPG


With the bottom cap removed:

IMG_0136.JPG


More parts removed:

IMG_0157.JPG


Sliding the chip out on it's rails:

IMG_0159.JPG


A bit further, with the screen and it's cover:

IMG_0168.JPG


Chip, buttons and screen cover removed, that is it on wiring, 1mm (18G) solid bare copper:

IMG_0161.JPG


All the parts removed, except for the tube for the atty:

IMG_0166.JPG
\

Back in again, the button between up/down is just aesthetic:

IMG_0170.JPG


All back together with a shorter atty instead:

IMG_0173.JPG


Or maybe retrofit another mod for the smaller atty:

IMG_0175.JPG


Stands 100mm tall, from mouthpiece to bottom plate:

IMG_0148.JPG


The Koa mod has been going strong since the new year, the Curly Maple the last two weeks. Hopefully this gives some idea of how they age, and please excuse the dust. :lol:
 

asdaq

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Thanks been. If it is for personal use than feel free to build away. I like building some other ideas for fun, but this dual tube with wood is what I take with me on a daily basis. I was pleasantly surprised that the DNA40 is just a hair wider than 5/8", so I could use that existing hole and file in tracks for the board to fit and stay aligned. The koa mod is running 28G nickel at .23 ohms, but the curly maple is still running kanthal at 2 ohms. I will get some vtc5's tomorrow to hopefully see some performance improvements. Right now I'm liking both about equally for various reasons.
 

asdaq

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Quite nicely, it all depends on careful placement. The tracks keep the board lined up and help determine the depth, the atty tube also maintains the depth. The holes for the buttons need to be as precise as possible, and the rubber sheet also helps with the alignment internally, and also keeps them from spinning. Finally the shape of the buttons where they hit the switches can be manipulated too if there needs to be any correction.

I took the introduction of the DNA 20 video to heart where Brandon showed an acrylic mod with roofing nails for buttons. The rubber mimics how the buttons in a remote are set up, and the fire button went from a 1,5mm actuator to a 2mm, to finally the 3,5 used here. It's adjustable in depth, and has a good size for a finger without dimpling the skin like some laser pointers might.
 

BlueridgeDog

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OK. I think I am seeing it now...the rubber is the side of the button that is against the chipset and the longer portions pointing down in the image are what shows through the wood case? The wood then forms an alignment channel for the button and the rubber keeps them spaced accurately. It would appear that charging requires removing the chip or can you bend the wire enough to get the battery out?
 

BlueridgeDog

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This reminds me of an idea I had some time back for mods with less than simple battery removal, a charger with a atomizer fitting, so you just unscrew your atomizer, then screw in the charger fitting and charge in place. I wish you were close as I could use help in the shop! I am trying to make a snap closure system for wood scales/cover whereby a thin wire is soldered or epoxied onto the inside of a outer band, becoming a ridge and a grove is milled into the scale/cover such that is simply snaps into place. I hope to have a testable version soon - but work is in the way at the moment.
 

asdaq

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I'm not quite sure what it's for, but can follow the parts. Everything you've listed in there sounds quite rigid, so while it will snap on with enough force, getting it off could be quite hard. Something in there has to be flexible or springy, like in a clothing snap there is a small spring wire, or a shampoo pop cap is made of flexible plastic.

What's this about scales?
 

rolf

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For anyone who has seen my previous mods, this might look quite familiar, but with a few subtle changes:

IMG_0128.JPG

From the side there are some other differences:

IMG_0126.JPG


And from the bottom and other side:

IMG_0130.JPG


With the bottom cap removed:

IMG_0136.JPG


More parts removed:

IMG_0157.JPG


Sliding the chip out on it's rails:

IMG_0159.JPG


A bit further, with the screen and it's cover:

IMG_0168.JPG


Chip, buttons and screen cover removed, that is it on wiring, 1mm (18G) solid bare copper:

IMG_0161.JPG


All the parts removed, except for the tube for the atty:

IMG_0166.JPG
\

Back in again, the button between up/down is just aesthetic:

IMG_0170.JPG


All back together with a shorter atty instead:

IMG_0173.JPG


Or maybe retrofit another mod for the smaller atty:

IMG_0175.JPG


Stands 100mm tall, from mouthpiece to bottom plate:

IMG_0148.JPG


The Koa mod has been going strong since the new year, the Curly Maple the last two weeks. Hopefully this gives some idea of how they age, and please excuse the dust. :lol:
asdaq...simply a master piece !
 

been there

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Thanks been. If it is for personal use than feel free to build away. I like building some other ideas for fun, but this dual tube with wood is what I take with me on a daily basis. I was pleasantly surprised that the DNA40 is just a hair wider than 5/8", so I could use that existing hole and file in tracks for the board to fit and stay aligned. The koa mod is running 28G nickel at .23 ohms, but the curly maple is still running kanthal at 2 ohms. I will get some vtc5's tomorrow to hopefully see some performance improvements. Right now I'm liking both about equally for various reasons.

Thank you Asdaq,I don't sell anything I build there not good enough for resale it's only a hobby that I'm getting more involve with.I just got a Grizzly mini mill this week and been busy cleaning it up and adjusting the x and y ,there more to it then I thought and getting itchy to mill something.
 
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