Benefits of Temperature Control?

[Rakku]

Hi there.

So Im sitting here with my eleaf iStick 50 and I want to get another Mod.

Saw the iPV3 150W and the sigelei 150W on fasttech and thought: Which one should I get?

Hard descision.
Now I just headed here to ask you guys and saw a thread about iPV4 preorder.
That peaked my interested and I looked a bit into the iPV4.

So the main thing about the iPV4 is the temperature control thingy right?

Now what exactly does that do for me?
I mean where are the benefits of more restricting safety measures?

Please someone point it out for me.

And another thing, should I get the iPV3, the Sigelei or should I wait for the iPV4?
Oooor is there another alternative I didnt hear of?

Please enlighten me guys!

 

[jseah]

From my limited understanding of it, the temperature control ensures that you don't get a dry hit because when the wick is dry and you try to fire it up, the temperature will rise. It is also my understanding that temperature control really only comes in handy if you are into building your own coils since it only functions if the coil is made of nickel wire. If the coil is made of kanthal wire, then temperature control won't function.

 

[Rakku]

Okay, so the temperature control is unusable for me, since I will only work with Kanthal for starters.

 

[SaabFanatic]

Okay, so the temperature control is unusable for me, since I will only work with Kanthal for starters.

If you are not willing to switch to nickel, yes, it would be useless for you.

 

[Cosmos23]

This thread helped, I was gonna ask same question. I was thinking of getting Sigelei 100w plus...

 

[Ohm Gnome]

That's not entirely true. Atlantis, Kanger Subtanks and others have pre made factory coils. It just makes every hit the same. You don't have to worry about a dry hit or too hot of a hit. It makes every hit as smooth as you want

 

[Ryedan]

Okay, so the temperature control is unusable for me, since I will only work with Kanthal for starters.

Temperture protection only helps you if you sometimes get a dry hit. I was going to say you can also use titanium or nickle and Kanthal together, but if you're only looking at using Kanthal you're out of the temperature protection game.

 

[Cosmos23]

Ok but are some of the sub ohm tanks made with nickle? What is the benefit of using nickle if I want to start building my own coils in the future

 

[Ryedan]

Ok but are some of the sub ohm tanks made with nickle? What is the benefit of using nickle if I want to start building my own coils in the future

Yes, you can can get heads with Ni coils for some of the sub-ohm tanks out there. I can't tell you which ones have this option, but I know some are out there now.

The benefit of Ni coils is that you can use them with temperature protected mods. If you don't want to use TP, I would stick with Kanthal wire.

 

[xtwosm0kesx]

Ok but are some of the sub ohm tanks made with nickle? What is the benefit of using nickle if I want to start building my own coils in the future

DO NOT use nickel (Ni200) coils for anything but Temp Controlled mods/modes.

 

[Cosmos23]

Lol so that's the only benefit :/... Well poop on a stick. Ok well is the price Ni coil any different from kanthal like if I wanna start building at some point in time. Idk I thought I was sold on the temp control but ideally I would like a mech mod in the future once I have more know how and deeper pockets. So overwhelmed I have a crappy halo titan n just wanna upgrade

 

[jseah]

Yes, you can can get heads with Ni coils for some of the sub-ohm tanks out there. I can't tell you which ones have this option, but I know some are out there now.

The benefit of Ni coils is that you can use them with temperature protected mods. If you don't want to use TP, I would stick with Kanthal wire.

There are pre-made nickel coils for the Subtank, Atlantis and the Nautilus. Since many other subohm tanks can use Atlantis coils, this opens up quite a line up that can use temp control without needing to actual build a coil.

EDIT: Just checked the Vaporshark website and they sell pre-made nickel coils for the Aerotank/Genitank/Protank 3 as well.

 

[edyle]

There are pre-made nickel coils for the Subtank, Atlantis and the Nautilus. Since many other subohm tanks can use Atlantis coils, this opens up quite a line up that can use temp control without needing to actual build a coil.

The reason there are premade nickel coils for those tanks is the first generation of temperature control mods are designed around using nickel coils.

 

[jseah]

Lol so that's the only benefit :/... Well poop on a stick. Ok well is the price Ni coil any different from kanthal like if I wanna start building at some point in time. Idk I thought I was sold on the temp control but ideally I would like a mech mod in the future once I have more know how and deeper pockets. So overwhelmed I have a crappy halo titan n just wanna upgrade

The prices for the pre-made nickel coils are virtually the same as the kanthal versions. The Vaporshark website sells a 5-pack of Kanger OCC for $17.50 while the 5-pack for the nickel version of the OCC sells for $18.50.

The same coils advertised on Fasttech sells at virtually the same price. Fasttech charges $10.26 for a 5-pack of nickel coils and $10.25 for a 5-pack of kanthal coils (for the Subtank).

 

[Cosmos23]

Awesome thanks that's a lot of help, so what temp control device would you guys recommend or should I wait & see what comes out next.

 

[Ryedan]

Awesome thanks that's a lot of help, so what temp control device would you guys recommend or should I wait & see what comes out next.

If I were just starting to look at TP mods now I would explore the ones that handle different wire materials. I have no information on this other than I know this is out there already. You can tell the latest boards what wire material you're using and the board will accurately calibrate for that wire so when you set 430 deg F the wire will be 430 deg F. With my mods if I use titanium or twisted kanthal/Ni if I set say 340 deg F I actually get say 440 deg F. This can be worked around, but why use a workaround if you can calibrate the board to the wire