Best battery for mech 2017

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Darth Xibalba

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Just ordered a hcigar Skeleton Key mech. It says 510 connection and telescopic silver contact pin/silver firing contact. Does that mean it's not a hybrid & that I don't have to worry about a protruding 510 on the rda/rta? I also was wondering what batteries most people use in their mechs, to be able to sub ohm as low & safe as possible (0.15-0.3). I use Docan cells in all my other mods, except the Hexohms. They're 35A, 20A continuous, 3000mAh. Should I just use one of those in the mech or is there something better?
 

Eskie

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Here's a list of recommended batteries and the ratings they tested at from Mooch.
Battery Chart.jpeg
 

Eskie

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I don't have that mech, but all you need to do is follow ohms law for your builds. With a 30A battery, like the HB6, at 3.7V nominal, and some sort of safety buffer, you could go as low as 0.15 ohm with a 25A draw on that battery. Here's a link to Steam Engine to help. Ohm's law

The higher the capacity, mAh, generally the lower the current, so a 30Q will give you 20A and 3000 mAh, whereas an HB6 can deliver 30A but only with 1500 mAh. Choose your battery based on what build you want. Going with a bit higher ohm build will let you use something like a 30Q and have better battery life.
 

Bad Ninja

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Cool, how low do you typically build and feel safe? Do ya know anything about this mech I'm getting?

You should really take the time to learn how Ohm's law relates to vaping and battery safety.

You should also take time to learn how to use a mechanical.
Your posts show you really don't understand the risks or how tonuse it safely.

Its not hard or difficult, but ignoring it will eventually get you hurt or worse.

Here's a good place to start.

(8) A Beginner's Guide to Your First Mechanical Mod | E-Cigarette Forum
 

Darth Xibalba

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I don't have that mech, but all you need to do is follow ohms law for your builds. With a 30A battery, like the HB6, at 3.7V nominal, and some sort of safety buffer, you could go as low as 0.15 ohm with a 25A draw on that battery. Here's a link to Steam Engine to help. Ohm's law

The higher the capacity, mAh, generally the lower the current, so a 30Q will give you 20A and 3000 mAh, whereas an HB6 can deliver 30A but only with 1500 mAh. Choose your battery based on what build you want. Going with a bit higher ohm build will let you use something like a 30Q and have better battery life.
What's the difference between the HB2,HB4,&HB6? It looks like they all have the same specs according to that chart
 

Shawn Hoefer

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Is just saying "ditto" an appropriate reaponse?

Ok... ok... I'll add that there is currently an inverse relationship between mAh (battery life) and amps. The higher the amps, the shorter the life. I find it far more preferable to carry spares in a case than to try risky builds on a longer lasting battery. Most all my mechs are running on LG HB2s, 4s, and 6s. The 4s tend to last a smidge longer...

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tj99959

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    To begin with I wouldn't in my right mind use a 0.15 ohm coil on a mechanical. Common ohm readers are not accurate enough to measure resistances that low, and you could find yourself messing around with a coil well below your desired 0.15 ohms.

    My rule of thumb is to never go below 50% of rated CDR, which would mean nothing lower than 0.4 ohms on a 20 amp CDR battery. (tastes better anyway)
     

    Shawn Hoefer

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    Yeah I'll probably keep it at .2 and above just to be safe. But the app I have does say that for the LG HB6 a .09 is possible
    You need to get a better app! At .09 you're pulling roughly 47 amps off of a 30 amp battery. Not good. At .2, you're ok at roughly 22 amps.

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    Topwater Elvis

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    You are either entering a value into the app incorrectly or the app is flat out wrong and giving dangerous info.

    4.2v / .09Ω = 46.6a
    4v / .09Ω = 44.4a
    3.7v / .09Ω = 41.1a
    3.5v / .09Ω = 38.8a
    3.2 / .09Ω 35.5a

    Drawing more than the CDR of any battery is playing Russian roulette.
     

    Darth Xibalba

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    You are either entering a value into the app incorrectly or the app is flat out wrong and giving dangerous info.

    4.2v / .09Ω = 46.6a
    4v / .09Ω = 44.4a
    3.7v / .09Ω = 41.1a
    3.5v / .09Ω = 38.8a
    3.2 / .09Ω 35.5a

    Drawing more than the CDR of any battery is playing Russian roulette.
    It's called vape tool pro. You don't have to enter anything, it has a battery database, with all the specs for each
     

    Shawn Hoefer

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    It's called vape tool pro. You don't have to enter anything, it has a battery database, with all the specs for each
    I use that app... ignore the database... use the ohms law calculator and the mfr CDR with a safety margin. The database is based on the nominal voltage (typically 3.7 v) and the estimated max vaping current, and assumes a perfect battery. You know what assuming does, right?

    d6b4a34fd0b35f31a4257392f78fc8a6.jpg


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    Layzee Vaper

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    I've never really understood why people new to mech's feel the need to jump into the deep end with very low ohm builds. You can get a very good vape at much higher resistance levels, it just takes a little time, research and practice. To be honest you really need to understand how the mod works, the limits of the batteries that you use, the accuracy of any ohm reader and your own limits before you even contemplate a 0.15 build. If you can't invest some time and effort into learning the ropes first, just use a regulated mod. You need to properly understand the risks and be able to identify any warning signs that something is not right before you use a mech.

    Lots of people on here will help you if you decide to use a mech but in the end you are responsible for your own safety.
     
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