Best high drain 18650 batteries?
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What do you know about Imren or subohm cell I see a lot of advertising for these cells
I've only tested one Imren so far, the "40A" 2500mAh
Imren Purple 40A 2500mAh 18650 Bench Test Results...only a 20A battery, runs very hot | E-Cigarette Forum
But that's not surprising considering that...
There are no 18650 batteries with a genuine rating over 30A! | E-Cigarette Forum
So all these cells claiming 35, 38 , 40 amp capabilities are BSing on the capacities then
No, don't do that. Orbtronics is one of the reputable good guys. They openly state what they do with Panasonic batteries (plenty of companies re-wrap batteries), and sell authentic name brand batteries (Sony, Samsung, LG, et al). They even warn about how some manufacturers/vendors post "pulse ratings" instead of real continuous discharge rates in their marketing specs.Hans Wermhat said:
You got it.
There are no 18650 batteries made that are over 30 amps CDR.
If they advertise over 30 amps, they are over-rating the specs for marketing purposes, or using the "pulse" rating; which we pay no attention to in the vape world.
The "CDR /continuous discharge rating" in amps is the standard specification for amp limits within the battery industry. It is a determination made by the manufacturer and represents the amp limit a battery can be safely used before it will fail.
The "pulse or burst" discharge rating is not a specification standard within the battery industry. Every manufacturer or vendor seems to have their own definition of what the pulse rating is. So this makes it impossible comparing the specs between different manufacturers.
A pulse discharge rating is any use above the continuous discharge rating. It is never safe and not within the intended operating parameters of the battery. You should not operate your device above the continuous rating if you can help it. The pulse rating is a condition in which the battery is on basically a buildup to failure. It is exceeding the sustainable and intended discharge rate of the battery. It is inappropriate for a consumer device to operate in the pulse range of its battery.
Which would be why we shouldn't rely on any pulse rating. Any failure, mechanical or electronic, that fires the mod will operate in the 'continuous' mode. If your setup relies on a pulse rating, it's instantly over spec.
If your amp draw is safely in the continuous discharge range, your coil could act almost like a fuse and burn out before the battery is stressed. If you are already running the battery at the edge of it's limits (pulse), there is no margin of safety.
The "pulse or burst" discharge rating is not a specification standard within the battery industry. Every manufacturer or vendor seems to have their own definition of what the pulse rating is. So this makes it impossible comparing the specs between different manufacturers.
A pulse discharge rating is any use above the continuous discharge rating. It is never safe and not within the intended operating parameters of the battery. You should not operate your device above the continuous rating if you can help it. The pulse rating is a condition in which the battery is on basically a buildup to failure. It is exceeding the sustainable and intended discharge rate of the battery. It is inappropriate for a consumer device to operate in the pulse range of its battery.
Which would be why we shouldn't rely on any pulse rating. Any failure, mechanical or electronic, that fires the mod will operate in the 'continuous' mode. If your setup relies on a pulse rating, it's instantly over spec.
If your amp draw is safely in the continuous discharge range, your coil could act almost like a fuse and burn out before the battery is stressed. If you are already running the battery at the edge of it's limits (pulse), there is no margin of safety.
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I always use a ohms law calculator and an ohms meter when I build so that I know where I'm at with things. I only run my really low builds on my 26650 mech using an mnke battery and I've never been over a 35 amp load with any build I do so the 26650 handles those types of builds better
@Mooch I would like to see a test on these. 
XT-VTC4 18650 2200mAh High Drain 25A Battery (Unprotected) Flat Top | XTAR Direct
XT-VTC4 18650 2200mAh High Drain 25A Battery (Unprotected) Flat Top | XTAR Direct
@Mooch I would like to see a test on these.
XT-VTC4 18650 2200mAh High Drain 25A Battery (Unprotected) Flat Top | XTAR Direct
I'd like to test that one. I did an informal testing of the button top version (slightly used) thanks to a fellow ECF member and the results were a disaster. Barely a 20A cell. Seemed to be a VTC4 so perhaps the cell was damaged previously.
If anyone had an XTAR flat-top, unused, to donate to the cause I'd be happy to test it!
you say you have tried the samsung 25r's I'm assuming those were the light blue ones (25r(2)'s). Recently Samsung released the 25r(5)'s which have a green wrapper. They are supposed to have a lower internal resistance and increased lifespan due to the improved chemistry. They certainly seem to hit harder in my mech's than the blue ones but then again it could all be in my mind...
LGs 30a cell has to low of a mah to be of use to me, I dont buy. HD2 are good cells for regulated devices but I dont use them. I personally stick with VTC4s in mech mods and 25r in regulated mods. I think when I get rid of the last of my 25rs I will get LG for my regulated boxes. Whats a better cell? 25r or HD2
It's a great battery...
Samsung INR18650-30Q 15A 3000mAh Bench Test Results | E-Cigarette Forum
While you can run the 30Q at 30A, especially when pulsed, it is a 15A-rated battery that I rate at 20A. In my opinon, at 30A you have very little safety margin keeping that battery fron venting in case the mod autofires or a mech mod button breaks or gets accidentally pressed in a pocket. It will easily reach 110°C.
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